The winter here in Shuhe Ancient Town, Lijiang, Yunnan is quiet

The quiet winter here in Shuhe Ancient Town, Lijiang, Yunnan / Wen Xilan

It is cold in early winter, but the warm sun is shining,

Strolling through Shuhe Ancient Town On the bluestone road,

An unprecedented tranquility lingers in my heart.

The bustling hustle and bustle of the city gradually fades away.

With the music floating in the sun ,

Let your thoughts wander freely,

Let time pass by silently,

I just want to, in the quiet Shuhe River,

Listen to a beautiful and ancient story.

After swimming around Lashihai, it was already around four in the afternoon, so we decided to go to Shuhe Ancient Town without hesitation. The enthusiastic driver took me to the back door and pointed to the road ahead and told me that I could visit the entire Shuhe by walking along this road. He also told me to try my best to get back to Dayan before eight o'clock. I expressed my sincere gratitude and said goodbye to this enthusiastic driver Ahu who left a deep impression on me at this stop.

Shuhe is called "Shaowu" in Naxi language. Because the Jubao Mountain behind the village is shaped like a pile of peaks, it is named after the mountain village. It means "the village under the peak" and is a Naxi name. One of the earliest settlements of ancestors in Bazi, Lijiang, it is an important well-preserved market town on the Tea Horse Road. It is also a living specimen of the Naxi ancestors' transition from farming civilization to commercial civilization. It is a model of market town construction formed by opening up to the outside world and caravan activities. . Shuhe is an important part of the World Cultural Heritage Lijiang Ancient Town and was selected as one of CCTV's "China's Charming Towns" in 2005.

Walking leisurely on the clean bluestone road in Shuhe, there are very few pedestrians, and they all walk slowly and leisurely. Bars, restaurants, and inns were all deserted, and many had their doors closed. In comparison, here is not the noisy and prosperous city of Dayan. Its rhythm is obviously slower, more subtle, and more melodious. What flows out of it is another kind of slow life that is lazy to the core, which makes people feel Unprecedented freedom and relaxation.

Such a leisurely ancient town is indeed suitable for people who choose to travel to relax. It is not noisy, there is no noise in any corner, it always maintains an aloof and cold appearance, and its strong atmosphere of life has not diminished at all. Compared with Dayan Ancient Town, these are two extreme temperaments, one is quiet and the other is noisy. It's a pity that the hustle and bustle of Dayan sometimes prevents people from enjoying the beauty of the journey calmly, but the tranquility of Shuhe, like thin water, flows slowly, making people slowly indulge in it, and like it more and more.

Whose corn is densely hung all over the wall. Under the warm winter sun, it casts half-light and half-dark light and shadow. The warm tones add a bit of bright color to this winter day. I used to think that only the fertile Northeast would have large cornfields and lots of corn to eat. Because I love corn so much, this became one of the important reasons why I chose to study in the Northeast without hesitation. . Later, as I gained more experience and traveled to more and more places, I gradually discovered that in our vast motherland, there are many places where large tracts of corn are grown, not to mention Yunnan, which is warm as spring all year round.

A city with warm seasons is, of course, indispensable for the decoration of flowers and plants. If you walk around casually, you will find that even in the slightly chilly early winter, you can see blooming flowers everywhere, completely ignoring the change of seasons.

The yards of people in Shuhe Ancient Town are not very high. Occasionally, when you look up, you can always see a flowerpot standing quietly on the wall, growing hard in the breeze, facing the blue sky and the sun.

When I see this scene, I always think of the photo of four Chengdu people having a great time playing mahjong in the rapeseed field in spring, taken by my friend Qiangzi from Chengdu. Under the warm winter sun, a few old people sat around playing mahjong to spend their free time, talking and laughing and enjoying the daily life. After half a lifetime of hard work, in exchange for this little leisure, isn't it a kind of happiness?

To be honest, this is the first group of people I met in Shuhe Ancient Town, and they are locals. Their peaceful faces are engraved with the vicissitudes of time, and their dark skin bears the imprint of plateau life.

I really wanted to capture this rare scene, so I didn’t ask for permission. Unexpectedly, the grandma watching mahjong next to me saw me picking up the camera and reflexively covered her face. I'm deeply sorry for disturbing other people's peaceful life.

A puppy with a plump long tail appeared out of nowhere, running across the street, casting a long shadow in the sunlight, and then disappeared around the corner in an instant.

The stone road in Shuhe is narrow and winding. Walking along it, you can reach the end at a glance. I thought the road was impassable, but when I got closer, I realized that there was always a sudden and enlightening turn next to it. It was this one again. Every turn connects the town's blue sky, white clouds, breeze, weeping willows, wooden buildings... just like a curved rope, tightly connecting the quiet residences. The irregular arrangement of bluestone slabs forms a leisurely path for town residents and foreign tourists, recording every lazy pace and every pleasant wandering.

Every step you take, there will always be a different scenery waiting for you. Every scenery can give people unexpected surprises. I don’t know if the flowers blooming on the graceful branches are a kind of plum blossom, but being able to see this grand bloom in the bleak winter is a kind of luck in itself. The tiny white flowers, paired with the staggered branches, are so beautiful under the blue sky.

The afternoon sun stretched my shadow very long. Just wandering aimlessly through the streets and alleys of the ancient town, feeling the wind blowing in the warm sunshine, smelling the light fragrance of flowers everywhere, looking at the refreshing greenery everywhere, I feel an inexplicable happiness and peace. satisfy.

Looking around, the most common ones in the ancient town are inns. I heard that Xiaopeng, the author of "Backpacking Ten Years", opened the Backpacking Ten Years Inn in Shuhe Ancient Town. This big shot in the travel industry is envied or admired by many travel friends and backpackers. Naturally, many people come here to visit him. I didn't deliberately look for this inn. I just felt that you can tell the whole story at a glance. Every inn here has its own characteristics. They are all decorated and planned by the owner. They all have unusual stories and are worth visiting. Take your time to appreciate the taste.

I heard that most of the merchants and innkeepers here are outsiders. Because of the beauty and pleasantness of Shuhe, they never left after coming here. They yearn for a quiet and straightforward life, so they each use their mood and taste to create their own small world. Whether it is an inn, a bar or a slap shop, they are either elegant or gorgeous, simple or modern based on the Naxi style.

Some of them also have strong characteristics of the shop owner’s hometown: the grandeur of a courtyard house in the north and the elegance of a small bridge and flowing water in the south; European and American style and the charm of Tibetan Buddhism. The beauty of Shuhe lies in its tolerance, grandeur and variety of flavors. Everywhere is a painting, every point is a scene.

The restaurant’s signboard looks a bit old. Was it written by the owner of the restaurant himself?

No wonder before I came here, many people recommended that you must stay in Shuhe when you come to Lijiang. It is indeed more suitable to live here. I woke up from a dream in the morning and opened the window. The Naxi houses with blue bricks and black tiles were still quietly immersed in the morning light. The quiet alleys were silent and the weeping willows were blowing in the breeze. How pleasant it would be to smell the flowers, bask in the sun, have breakfast, and start a new day in the sunny yard.

Shuhe is more than seven kilometers away from Lijiang. Although the layout and model here are the same as Dayan Ancient City, there are the same Sifang Street, the same big stone bridge, and the same Qingshi Street as Dayan. Lane... but the air here exudes a sense of comfort and tranquility. Because this place is closer to the Jade Dragon Snow Mountain, the gurgling stream in front of and behind the house is much clearer than in Dayan. Pieces of water plants are floating in the stream, looming and looming, making people daydream and intoxicating.

The small decorations in front of the inn are also unique.

The friendly and simple store name and the natural and creative wooden signboard make me want to take a photo. But these are not the only things that are attractive here. Creativity is everywhere and there are surprises everywhere.

Small bridges, flowing water, quaint wooden houses, and leisurely people are everywhere you can stop and stare. The peaceful town makes people unable to feel the passage of time. Commercial places exude a literary and artistic atmosphere everywhere. Feelings can be seen everywhere.

Ya Nanju, I like these three words very much.

In this village under the snow-capped mountains, the sun always paints the earth in the warmest and brightest manner. This cute dog stands quietly in front of the Ritz Man Coffee, seemingly there. Thinking, and seeming to be waiting for someone to arrive.

On another step, three puppies were immersed in their dreams, enjoying the beauty of the winter sunshine. In Lijiang, Shuhe Ancient Town is probably the only place where small animals can dream so unscrupulously outdoors.

If you are not careful, you will think you are in Europe. Shuhe is really an all-encompassing place. If you wander around the streets and alleys, you will find that you have seen the scenery of most of the world.

The prosperous Longmen Inn. This is not the Dragon Gate Inn that is often mentioned on TV. Looking at the banner in front of the door, this must be a gathering place for travelers and photographers from all over the country.

I found a photo of super girl Tan Weiwei in a certain inn. In 2010, Tan Weiwei filmed the MV "In Shuhe" in Shuhe Ancient Town. When she first arrived in Shuhe Ancient Town, she was deeply intoxicated by the beautiful local scenery. Later, she used this as inspiration to compose the environmentally-themed song "In Shuheli". The shots in the MV are like her perspective, and the entire work is about her leading fans to visit Shuhe Ancient Town.

As you slowly go deeper into the streets, you will unknowingly be attracted by the ubiquitous ethnic elements of the Naxi people. Dongba’s ancient hieroglyphics, Dongba sheepskin drums, Dongba’s unique folk music, dance, various disc-selling bars, Dongba’s paper mills, leather goods, Dongba paintings, sculptures, Dongba cultural shirts, etc. It does not exude a strong national atmosphere, but it hits your face, unstoppable, and makes people happily intoxicated.

Of course, there are also pottery studios, wood carvings, embroidery, Naxi women's clothing...

All of this makes people naturally indulge in this art without being inadvertently influenced. Although I don't understand them, I can't help but want to get close to and trace the mysterious sources, to explore its deep context, and to feel its magical charm.

In this quiet corner, everything is growing freely. The antique color and natural freshness are perfectly integrated, making people fall in love instantly. This corner always reminds people of the flower-filled private garden of the dancing god Yang Liping in Kunming. It is a world that many people envy.

Under the blue sky, the quaint buildings and green tiles with raised eaves appear more vicissitudes and confusion, seeming to tell endless stories. The simple and tranquil architectural style exudes a touch of warmth. The story of a foreign country, the two stone lions and tigers at the door are powerful, and the ten words "Chaimen hears the barking of dogs, I am glad that an old friend has come", which instantly shortens the distance between the host and the guest.

Lazy. Feeling. Everyone became lazy following the advertising slogan. Walking around in different cities will always make people discover a different kind of life and a different state of mind.

Blue flowers, exuding an elegant atmosphere, bloom quietly and decorate a corner of the inn.

Son of the desert, Mr. Succulent is here! It just grows naturally and is so beautiful. Maybe the flowers here don't need to be plowed around according to climate changes like other cities. They are afraid of freezing in winter and sunburn in summer, so they may not survive well if they are cared for carefully.

The scenery in the glass bottle is exquisite and transparent.

I always thought that Shuhe was not big, but I didn’t expect that the deeper I went, the less it seemed to reach the end. And the scenery in the depths is something I have never seen before, and it is fascinating.

Going along the alley on the left side of the restaurant, you will find a completely different world. Sure enough, the unknown scenery is the most attractive.

After walking through a series of unique inns, small restaurants, and bars, a slightly higher mountain appeared in front of me. The scenery I saw standing on the mountain was completely different from what I saw in ordinary alleys. With this thought in mind, I moved forward resolutely.

The road was deserted and the mountain wind was strong. I met tourists in twos and threes on the way and asked if there was a way to the top of the mountain. The enthusiastic traveler told me: There are no people on the mountain at this time, so I have to go up quickly, otherwise it will get dark. And told me the path up the mountain in detail.

This should be the Jubao Mountain mentioned in the previous introduction. The huge prayer flags on the top of the mountain float and sway between the earth and the sky, making a crackling sound, forming a realm that connects the earth to the sky. Under the afterglow of winter, it becomes a beautiful scenery in the valley.

The five-color prayer flags of blue, white, red, green and yellow, on the top of this sparsely populated mountain, quietly guard this land and protect the residents in the valley.

Looking from the top of the mountain, you can have a panoramic view of the ancient town. The entire village still maintains the original ecological character of the ethnic minorities, with gray tiles stacked on top of each other and houses scattered at random. It is clear and quiet, and you can only hear the hunting sounds of the prayer flags around you. Voice. The distant mountains seemed to be covered with a layer of white gauze, adding a bit of mystery to this small village.

The folk houses here can be regarded as a model of the Naxi people with the atmosphere of the northwestern Yunnan plateau. They have the distinct style of "three rooms and one screen wall (the main room is higher, the side rooms on both sides are slightly lower, plus a screen wall)" Features. The folk houses built on the mountain form an organic and complete unity with nature. The tiled houses in the ancient city are lined up in rows, surrounded by green mountains, tightly surrounding the ancient city. The simple and vivid shapes and exquisite and elegant decorations of the houses in the city are the crystallization of Naxi culture and technology. All this probably stems from the Naxi people’s profound understanding of life.

Some people say that ancient dwellings are the reappearance of a nation’s residential epic. In this village under the snow-capped mountains, I touched the walls of the ancient and obsolete houses again and again, touched the life expressed by the Naxi ancestors in wood, stone and bricks, and touched the signs of survival they remembered in the countryside. , as if the pulse of life is passing through those ordinary wall bricks, into my palms, and then into my heart.

Tower-like Manidui with spiritual energy rise from the ground one after another. Manidui have the unique atmosphere of Tibetan humanities, like the shining aura of the Great Earth Scripture on the plateau. Every stone embodies the heartfelt prayers of believers. Although I didn’t find scriptures, six-character mantras or Buddha statues on the stones, I still didn’t dare to disturb these sacred piles, so I just watched them from a distance.

The cold wind is blowing on the top of the mountain, and the bare tree trunks are shaking in the cold wind. It looks a little desolate in the gradually darkening winter sky.

The dead branches on the top of the mountain are all sacred images that can be seen from a distance but not played with. It is a very artistic form. I have a vague feeling that the people living in this valley are a very religious group. They Advocating nature, cherishing life, and advocating the concept of harmonious life between man and nature.

The mountain breeze is blowing, the sun is setting, the sky is getting dark, it’s time for me to go down the mountain.