Biandukou-the most convenient throat artery in Gansu-Qinghai passage

In the middle part of Qilian Mountain, there is a canyon passage that runs through Gansu and Qinghai provinces. This is the dangerous road called "big bucket to pull out the valley" by the ancients-Biandukou. "Biandukou" is the phonetic change of Tibetan "Bianmaduo", which means "Jinlumei", a low shrub in Qilian Mountain. It has a large number of beautiful flowers, usually golden yellow, white and pink. Every summer, the Biandukou Gorge is full of Jin Lumei, hence its name.

Biandukou is the most convenient and important section from eastern Qinghai to Hexi Corridor in Gansu, which has played an important role in China's military, trade and ethnic exchanges. Biandukou is not only a pass, but the old name of "Dadou Lagu" refers to a narrow and dangerous valley, which is an important passage for ancient Guanlong and Hehuang areas to enter Hexi Corridor and lead to the western regions. The Biandukou Gorge is deep and dangerous. It is nearly a kilometer long, sometimes wide and sometimes narrow. In the Qing Dynasty, Hao Daozun wrote in "Da Dou La Gu": "The mouth of Pingdu is weak and the stream is deep. The wind was so strong that Emperor Yangdi was drenched. Woche looks up to Longshan, don't stop teaching Lu Wu to invade. Yan said: The victory of Lao Weiguo, Huang Huadang blue clouds. " It tells the human history and natural scenery of the border ferry.

In the second year of Jian Yuan (BC 139), Emperor Wu of the Han Dynasty sent Zhang Qian to the Western Regions. Zhang Qian started from Chang 'an, crossed the Yellow River through Longxi, walked west along the southern foot of Qilian Mountain, left the border ferry and entered Hexi Corridor. After that, this ancient road left behind the figure of the emperor, soldiers guarding the border, businessmen, envoys, monks and literati's camel team.

The most spectacular event took place in the fifth year of the Great cause of Sui Dynasty (AD 609), when Emperor Yang Di led 100 civil and military officials and concubines northward through the border ferry to Zhangye County in Hexi Corridor and held the World Expo in Yanzhishan. After the founding of the Sui Dynasty, there were Turks in the north of Hexi Corridor and Tuguhun in the south. In order to show the national strength of the Sui Dynasty and further expand the Silk Road, Yang Di, a great talent, took pacifying the Turks and Tuguhun, recovering the countries in the western regions and expanding the territory as the primary task at that time. Emperor Yang Di sent Pei Ju, assistant minister of the official department, to Zhangye to discuss with the envoys of the western regions, to learn about the customs, mountains and dangers of the western regions, and wrote a map of the western regions. Pei Ju said, "Hu people are rich in treasures and easy to swallow." He also introduced the situation of the western regions.

In the fifth year of the Great Cause of Sui Dynasty (AD 609), Yang Di personally led hundreds of officials, ladies-in-waiting and various armies from Chang 'an, left Linjinguan (now Yongjing, Gansu), crossed the Yellow River and entered Qinghai along Huangzhong Road. In today's Minhe and Ledu areas, "Chen Bing talks about martial arts", and in the north of Hualong, "hunts for two thousand miles", and then Sui Jun goes along Haomenchuan (now Datong River) via Xining to Dabanshan (Yuexingling, the mountain pass is as high as 3940 meters above sea level) at the junction of Datong County and Menyuan County. Because the mountain is steep and towering, Yang Di's army did not directly cross the Daban Mountain, but entered the territory of Menyuan along the journey to the south of Datong River, and defeated Tuguhun in Fuyuan Sichuan (now the area around Yong 'an Beach in Menyuan), forcing Tuguhun to submit to the Sui Dynasty. This massive western expedition made the ancient Silk Road Ning (Xining) Zhang (Zhangye) smooth.

In order to show the great national prestige and military prestige of the Sui Dynasty and submit to all directions, Yang Di trumpeted this prestige. The "palace" of the troops of the Western Expedition consisted of Liuhe City, Liuhe Hall and thousands of accounts. As a bedroom, "Liuhe City" is one square foot, four feet high and two feet high (equivalent to two buildings with a length of 65,438+000 meters, a width of 32 meters and a height of six floors), which can accommodate 600 guards and is convenient for loading and unloading. As a popular hall, Liuhe Hall is decorated with car curtains, equipped with early warning hidden weapons and loaded with bells and horses. It can accommodate hundreds of courtiers and three guards. The "thousand-person account" can accommodate thousands of people, and is used for discussions, celebrations and big banquets.

The Emperor of Yang Di toured Zhangye in the west, and rode the dragon and phoenix chariot eastward to the foot of Yan Zhishan, where the "World Expo" began. At that time, there were Turkic, Silla, Xiongnu, Bida thorn, Dadu, Chuanyue, Uda, Bora, Tuhuoluo, Dujian, Hulun, Tudor, Peihan, Qiuci, Shule, Khotan, Anguo, Cao Guo and Heguo. "A Mirror from the Capital" states: "Its barbarians are accompanied by more than 20 countries." At that time, the venue was magnificent, thunder rumbled, and merchants from all over the western regions gathered. Princes and envoys from various countries in the Western Regions, wearing golden jade and gorgeous decorations, greeted Emperor Yang Di on the roadside. Emperor Yang Di ordered all clothes, chariots and horses not to be bright, and they were not allowed to enter the fields.

Emperor Yang Di also held a state banquet for the leaders of various countries, ambassadors from 27 countries and accompanying officials, which was of extraordinary momentum. In the accounts of thousands of people, the Royal Guard of Honor played nine national music, and large-scale performance programs competed for the first performance. Emperor Yang Di personally visited the "Temple of Fashion", which was full of cultural relics and gorgeous silk, and let the kings and envoys of the western regions enjoy it to show the prosperity of the Sui Dynasty civilization. This grand event lasted for 6 days at the foot of Yanqi Mountain, and envoys from 27 countries in the Western Region paid tribute to Emperor Yang Di. Yang Di was very happy, and immediately issued a decree announcing the establishment of four counties: Xihai, Heyuan, Shanshan and Qiemo.

Although Yang Di's style is brutal, his great achievements, such as digging the Beijing-Hangzhou Grand Canal, visiting Yan Zhishan to the west and recovering the western regions, cannot be denied. Emperor Yang Di held the World Expo to stabilize the western border, show the prosperity and dignity of the Sui Dynasty, open the Silk Road and further prosper the economy.

Today, we set off from Xining, the capital of Qinghai, crossed Daban Mountain and crossed the hinterland of Qilian Mountain. The natural moat has long been a thoroughfare, and the arterial national highway 227 twists and turns in Qilian Mountain. Dabanshan Tunnel has also been completed, ranking first in Asia and second in the world at an altitude of 3792.75 meters. Go north along Zhang Ning Highway, cross Haomen Bridge, cross Menyuan Qingshizui, cross Jingyanggang and enter Qilian Prairie. After passing through Ebao, you can reach Mingle and Zhangye.

Standing in the Hexi Corridor, from a distance, Qilian Mountain is covered with snow, Yanqi Mountain is lush, and thoughts are rolling in. As early as Xia and Shang Dynasties, the Qiang people (Xirong) lived a nomadic life in this area. Since the Han and Tang Dynasties, it has been an important channel for the Huns, Turks, Uighurs, Tuguhun and Tubo to communicate with each other and enter and leave Gansu and Qinghai. As early as the second year of Emperor founding ceremony of the Han Dynasty (123rd BC), General Huo Qubing, a title of generals in ancient times, led an elite soldier out of Longxi, crossed Haomen, entered the Hexi Corridor through a big fight (crossing the ferry), and went deep into the Xiongnu station for more than 1,000 miles, defeating the evil king of Xiongnu and the king of Xiutu, so Hexi was incorporated into the territory of the Han Dynasty. During the Eastern Jin Dynasty, the monk Faxian decided to go to Tianzhu (India) to seek Buddhism. In the third year of Long 'an (AD 399), Emperor Jin 'an traveled from Jingyuan to Lanzhou, Ledu, Datong and Menyuan, from Biandukou to Qilian Mountain, to Zhangye, along Hexi Corridor to the Western Regions, and returned to China by sea after Tianzhu. In March of the fifth year of the Great Cause of Sui Dynasty (AD 609), Emperor Yang Di left for the border ferry and held the "World Expo" at the foot of Yanqi Mountain. In the sixth year of Tang Tianbao (747), General Ge of the Tang Dynasty was appointed as the deputy commander of the Dadou Army, guarding the Dadou Valley. Because of his outstanding military achievements, he was promoted to be a foreign general of Wei, served as the deputy commander of Longyou Festival, founded "God into an army", built "Longying City" and stationed in Gan Qing. Old Tang book? "Biography of Geshuhan" records: "(King) Zhong Si took (Geshuhan) as the deputy ambassador of the big combat army." When Dou Jun was guarding the border ferry, a poem said, "This constellation with seven high stars is Shu Ge raising his sword at night. There are no more barbarians, and their horses or cows dare to wade across the border." From then on, the Tubo people never dared to invade the east, which also prevented the Tubo from invading the Hexi Corridor. In the third year of Song Baoqing (AD 1227), the Mongolian army crossed the Qilian Mountains through the border ferry and occupied the northern part of Qinghai. In the fifteenth year of Chongzhen in the Ming Dynasty (AD 1642), after Li Zicheng and He Jin, the leaders of the peasant uprising army, captured Ganzhou, they led a large army through the border ferry and marched to capture Xining. In the 4th year of Emperor Kangxi of Qing Dynasty (A.D. 1665), Chahan Russian Bo Camp was set up at Biandukou and boundary markers were set up. In the thirty-third year of Kangxi (AD 1694), 500 people were stationed in Damaying. In the eighth year of Guangxu (A.D. 1882), a Frenchman, Dou Tuole, went deep into this place to make a field survey and draw a map. In the 20th year of the Republic of China (A.D. 193 1 year), Ma Bufang came out from here and fought fiercely with Ma Zhongying in the south of Sambo, and Ma Zhongying defeated Xinjiang. In mid-September, the First Field Army of the Chinese People's Liberation Army 1949 regiment also passed the border ferry and galloped overnight. Suddenly, it appeared in front of the Kuomintang defenders in the fried noodles village of Minle County, liberating folk music in one fell swoop and advancing into Zhangye. On this ancient road, I also passed many literati, such as Li Bai, Wang Wei, Gao Shi, Cen Can and Wang Changling.

Biandukou has a rich historical and cultural heritage, which witnessed the historical changes of emperors' campaigns and the rise and fall of dynasties. Biandukou, an ancient passage full of sadness and sighs, endless vicissitudes and legends. The valley once echoed with the long bells of caravan camels, and the cliff was engraved with the figure of iron fighters marching. I wonder how many historical stories have been staged here. Over the past 1000 years, all the stories have been stirred by the wind in the passage of time and gradually precipitated in the tunnel of history. The wheel of history is rolling forward. Today, National Highway 227 passes through the canyon, and the border ferry still plays an important role in connecting Gansu and Qinghai. The border ferry, once a battleground for military strategists, has now become a tourist attraction and a place for business exchanges. Here, golden rape blossoms compete to welcome the arrival of the world with a brand-new look.