Matsu, the mellow aroma under strong force

The trip to Matsu was complete without wine or fun. The wine must be sorghum wine. Dongyin Chen Gao, or Ba Ba Tun Dao Chen Gao, is placed on the table together with wine-grained red eel, fish noodles, fish balls and other delicacies. After sitting down, Chen Gao was poured out. While chatting and laughing, the food was in the mouth and the wine was in the throat. Both the host and the guest were happy.

I was a little uneasy at first. After all, it is white wine, but I didn’t know that the wine is sweet, not spicy, not spicy, and very smooth.

The strong and mellow fragrance is just like the impression Matsu gives to mainlanders.

Islanders and Soldier Brother

Matsu, starting from Mawei, Fuzhou, takes only one and a half hours by boat, but it has taken people on both sides of the Taiwan Strait 50 years to wait. During the confrontation, Matsu was on the front line, and complex military buildings, underground tunnels, ports and strongholds could be seen everywhere on the islands. Although they had not been baptized by war, they appeared mysterious due to military control. Under such a background, is the life of the Matsu people as strong and harsh as sorghum wine?

With speculation, we boarded the Anqilun and bumped along the way. As the passenger ship sails into Matsu Fuao Port, the towering Nangan Fuqing Ridge comes into view. It is said that the lower part is the Chiang Kai-shek Memorial Park. The white stairs look like a white dragon wrapped around the giant rock, which is very eye-catching.

Get off the ship, go through the customs, take a quick look at the port, and then board the passenger ship called "Xiaobai" by the locals, heading to Beigan, where we will stop at Tangqi Village.

This is really a small village, with one horizontal and two vertical, and three streets, each no more than a hundred meters long, but concentrated with homes, hotels, restaurants, post offices, convenience stores, bus stations, airports, and even local people. Temple of worship. The streets have no names, and the house numbers hanging on the doors of every house simply read "No. X, Tangqi Village". The entire permanent population of Beigan is about 1,000. Tangqi Village is considered the concentrated area of ??Beigan’s population. Because of its small population, a candidate for county magistrate is already big news in the local area. When I was walking on the street, I saw a sign on the door of a house. There is a plaque hanging with a large line of words written on it - the only candidate for county magistrate from Beigan.

What stopped us were the business signs and local image posters. The signboard of the restaurant reads "Are you hungry?", the Black Beauty Beverage Shop sells betel nut cold drinks, and the new motorcycle rental mainly attracts tourists. The snail painting activity was initiated by the local township office in order to call on everyone to post "I am living slowly in Beigan". "The Happiness of Slow Food", many posters were posted along the streets. Walking on the street, the change of time and space, the switching of traditional Chinese characters and simplified Chinese characters are all novel experiences.

Catch up with the opening of the first Xie Jiao Ting beverage shop in Matsu Beigan. The entrance of the store is decorated with lights and colorful decorations. The concept of "sharing is simple and happiness extends" is very attractive. The three-day special drink only costs NT$1, which attracts islanders and soldiers to queue up to buy.

The soldiers are indeed a scene on the street. They are wearing camouflage uniforms and marching through the streets in formation. They must be returning from training. There are also soldiers in twos and threes who go out for leisure and shopping during the holidays. They appear very frequently in 7-11 convenience stores. Most of their purchases are snacks, lunch boxes, magazines and daily necessities. In Matsu, there is a saying that there are more soldiers than islanders. In the past few decades, the Matsu people have already included Brother A Bing in their lives, getting along well with each other and turning a blind eye. We are different. We are sitting in a convenience store, drinking iced latte. We seem to be leisurely and calm, but in fact we can’t help but glance around with the corner of our eyes. After all, Brother Bing, whom we have seen in Taiwanese movies before, Now he is walking around alive. Finally we got chatting, and all I asked was how long have you been a soldier, where is your home, do you miss home, etc. However, you unexpectedly found that when Brother A Bing was answering, there was a shy expression on his dark face. They were indeed their age. Not too old, the pimples on his face accidentally revealed the secret of his age.

We arrived at noon. Except for the newly opened rest pavilion, the entire Tangqi was very quiet. There were not many people on the street. We thought that the locals were taking a lunch break, but we never thought that tranquility is the normal state of Tangqi. . Even the hotel owner, who is a hotel owner, only showed up to welcome us when we arrived. We met again at breakfast the next day. You won't feel left out, because the neat beds, complete toiletries, and sumptuous breakfast packed in exquisite lunch boxes can all be seen from the care of the hotel owner. This is a newly renovated hotel. There are several similar hotels in Tangqi, and it is said that they all appeared recently. In the past two years, the tourism industry has developed and tourists have increased. Some Matsu people have converted their houses into family hotels to receive tourists and increase their income. However, the pace of life has not necessarily changed much.

When I got up at 5:30 in the morning, the street was even quieter.

In front of the shop, a truck driver was unloading seafood and vegetables for sale at the stall. The aroma wafted from the snack bar, and the proprietress was making scallion pancakes. Waiting on the side were two soldiers. At the entrance of the village, I met an aunt pushing a small cart. On the cart was a bag of mussels just fished out of the sea.

Walk about ten meters forward from the village entrance and you will reach the seaside. On the delicate beach, the lines left by the waves are clear and neat. The only embellishment is the small piles of sand left by the crabs when they dig holes. They are close together and are quite large. Walking forward, there is the sea. The water is clear, the waves are gentle, and the sea breeze blows on your face, bringing with it the coolness of early autumn. Looking back, we can see the ring road. The road guardrail cuts the sky and the beach like a straight line. Sometimes a motorcycle drives by, only the helmet and shoulders of the cyclist are exposed. It is very "Etude" scene.

Fortunately, I met an old man returning from morning exercise and chatted all the way back to the village. The old man grew up in Matsu, started his own business in Taipei, and now invests in mainland China. He has a successful career and his children have grown up, so he does not need to worry too much, so he can often go back to Matsu to stay. Tangqi has mountains, sea, good air, and neighbors he has been familiar with since he was a child. Life is leisurely and convenient, and the old man is very satisfied. Get up early every day, go for a walk in the nearby mountains, and then walk back along the seaside, which is relaxing and comfortable.

After a few days of hearing and seeing, I found that this is the real Matsu: peaceful and soothing. Decades of isolation have made this island full of legends. The people of the island are tough on the outside but warm on the inside, just like their beloved sorghum wine, which has an aftertasteful and mellow aroma despite its strong strength.

Battlefield Sightseeing in Matsu

When walking in Matsu, you can see buildings such as watchtowers, outposts, military hospitals, and military hostels everywhere. "Military Important Site" signs are placed at many intersections, prohibiting outsiders from doing so. Entering the training ground hidden in the woods, the sound of the soldiers practicing could be heard from time to time. With the development of the tourism industry, the mystery of these islands full of military colors has gradually been unveiled. The local tourism department is also committed to creating authentic battlefield tours to allow tourists to experience the battlefield style, thus forming many battlefield sightseeing spots. Beihai Tunnels:

Matsu can be said to be the island with the densest concentration of military tunnels in the world. The Beihai Tunnel is located on the iron plate coastline of Nangan Island. It is a waterway that goes deep into the mountain, runs through the rock wall, and is criss-crossed in a well shape. It took 820 working days to complete that year. The tunnel once served as an underground dock during the confrontation. Now visitors can walk into this deep tunnel to have a closer look. They can also take a canoe ride and experience a unique rafting experience in the tunnel. War and Peace Memorial Park: Taiwan's first museum park with the themes of "War and Peace" and "Touch and Memories". Visitors can travel through the former stronghold and experience Matsu's nearly half-century-long history of military control and the history of that year. The real life of soldiers and civilians. The park is located in Dawo Mountain on Beigan Island. When the weather is clear, you can overlook the mainland coastline. Compared with the tense atmosphere of the era of confrontation, it is more interesting and different from the theme of "war and peace". Three Three Strongholds:

In the early years of combat deployment of the Matsu Islands, the coastline was almost every five steps and one post every ten steps, and every headland was built into a strong and solid military base. Sansan stronghold is located on the westernmost headland of Xiyin Island and is open to the public.

Goddess and Spirits

Matsu, named after Mazu. According to legend, Lin Moniang, a woman from Putian in the past, threw herself into the sea to save her father, and carried her father's body on her back and drifted to Nangantang. The local residents buried her richly and built a temple to worship her. In memory of Mazu's filial piety, Nangantang was renamed Mazu Island.

This is a legend. According to historical records, the earliest development of Matsu began in the Yuan Dynasty. It was a place for mainland residents to rest and take shelter when they went fishing. In the late Ming and early Qing Dynasties, it was occupied by Japanese pirates. It was not until the early Qing Dynasty that Fuzhou fishermen immigrated here, and gradually formed a unique A village of kinship.

Early fishermen from Fuzhou arrived in Matsu and still made a living by fishing. During the battle with the wind and waves, Mazu became the patron saint in their hearts, thus forming the Mazu belief. The Magang Tianhou Temple on Nangan Island contains the tomb of Mazu and has become a centralized place of worship for many Mazu believers on the island, attracting many tourists. On the top of the mountain behind Thean Hou Temple, the world's tallest giant stone statue of Mazu stands quietly, gazing at the undulating sea from a distance. Against the backdrop of the blue sky and green trees, it looks majestic, solemn and peaceful. It is said that this statue is 29.6 meters high, representing Matsu's total area of ??29.6 square hectares. The statue is composed of 365 granite stones, which means peace every day for 365 days.

It took ten years from the proposal to the successful construction of the statue, which shows the local people's devotion to the Queen Mazu.

Thean Hou Temple also houses another patron saint of shipwrecks - King Baima. This common deity on the Matsu Islands is said to have been worshiped from Fuzhou. Residents on each island either built temples to worship or worshiped at home. The most popular one is the Shanlongjing in Jieshou Village on Nangan Island. Baima Zunwang Temple. The gathering of seven gods together is what makes this temple special.

On Matsu’s trip, he encountered countless temples. He or she went to the temple to worship, and enjoyed the inner peace brought by the ceremony between kowtowing and looking up. There was a car park, but I saw an unknown small temple hidden in the grass on the roadside, but I didn't have time to see clearly the name of the god. In front of God, all you have to do is have a heart, just like the grandmother I met on the quiet street of Tangqi Village at dawn that day. She had been getting up early to worship God for decades, but she never thought about finding out who the prince Xiao she was worshiping was. And Prince Xiao is still sitting firmly in Prince Xiao's Mansion, guarding the people of the island together with Jesus in the church across the street.

Just as gods bring spiritual sustenance to island people, the popularity of spirits in Matsu also comes from maritime culture. At the Matsu Winery, we saw this explanation: "Matsu is located in the corner of the sea, and it is difficult to make a living. Most of the people rely on fishing to make a living. They often use glutinous rice as raw material to make wine, which is called "old wine." The sky is white, and the fishermen are Use old wine to boost your spirits, go fishing at sea, and when you are tired, you will have old wine to soothe your body and mind for dinner. ”

In order to raise financial resources, Zhongxing Winery was founded and later renamed Matsu Winery. Matsu Winery is famous for its aromatic and mellow wine brewing according to ancient brewing methods. Its signature Daqu, sorghum and aged wine are among the must-buy souvenirs when visiting Matsu. The Eighty-eight Tunnel, which was used for military purposes at that time, is warm in winter and cool in summer, with stable temperature and humidity. It has transformed into the best wine storage space for Matsu Winery. The two neat rows of wine jars at the entrance of the tunnel are like soldiers lining up to welcome them, which is very impressive. . Walking in the deep tunnel, there are many wine jars, the fragrance of wine is ethereal, and traveling through time and space is a unique experience.

This trip did not reach Dongyin Island, but we did enjoy the charming taste of Dongyin wine on the dining table. Dongyin is located at 26 degrees 23 minutes north latitude, which is the same latitude as Kweichow Moutai, Sichuan Wuliangye and Sichuan Luzhou Laojiao, the three famous liquors in the mainland. It is most suitable for brewing liquor. Because the temperature, humidity, and even the beneficial bacteria that help fermentation are just right, and the water used is mountain spring water flowing from the granite geology rich in medical stones, all of these are contributing factors for Dongyin to produce good wine. After long-term low-temperature fermentation, Dongyin Chengao is alcoholic and non-spicy. Even if you have a hangover, you won't have a headache or dry mouth. Therefore, it enjoys a high reputation in Matsu, Taiwan, and even Fuzhou.

Matsu’s wine-flavored delicacies

Because Matsu is adjacent to Fuzhou, the food in the two places is very close. Many Fuzhou delicacies, such as fish balls, pot side paste, etc., can also be tasted in Matsu. get. The Matsu people not only love drinking and are good at making wine, they also use wine in their dishes and create unique wine-flavored delicacies. Steamed yellow croaker with old wine:

This is almost a must-order dish for Matsu people. Take fresh yellow croaker, add a little ginger slices, a little garlic, a little salt, then pour Matsu old wine and steam it. After being served, the fish meat is filled with the aroma of old wine, which is refreshing and delicious. The taste of the old wine is not spicy and not choking, and it creates a wonderful taste together with the delicious fish meat. Red gravy eel:

The large eel caught from the sea has particularly elastic meat and rich subcutaneous fat. It is coated in red gravy sauce and then deep-fried, tightly wrapping the full gravy. Pick up a piece of fish and bite it open gently. Under the crispy red grains, the tender eel juice flows out. The aroma of wine comes one after another, making people want to eat it piece by piece. Red lees chicken soup:

Chicken soup made from red lees not only tastes mellow, but can also warm the body and promote blood circulation, making it suitable for winter tonic. Local people will also add an egg and a little noodles to the red rice chicken soup to help pregnant women during confinement. Fried rice with distiller's grains:

Cut the pork with distiller's grains into cubes, add fresh onions, eggs, dried shrimps and other ingredients to stir-fry the rice together. Great appetite.

Rebirth of the settlement

The terrain of Matsu is very steep. The car was walking on the island, following the ups and downs of the terrain. When it encountered a sharp slope, it felt like the whole car stood upright. Before the people in the car had time to grasp the handrails, the car started to go downhill.

Because of this, we can only look left and right, unable to extend our sights in front of the car, and unable to predict what landscape is waiting ahead. When the car climbs to the top of the slope, the view suddenly opens up, and the blue sky and blue sea islands are coming towards us. , people are pleasantly surprised. The ancient settlement of Qinbi, which I have heard about for a long time, suddenly arrived.

Matsudo settlement. These prosperous villages in those days are scattered across the Matsu Islands. With the large-scale migration of the population, only a few incomplete stone houses are left, accompanied by lighthouses and seagulls. Occasionally, tourists or returnees come to stop and reminisce about the fishing villages of the past. Prosperity. Qinbi Village is one of the most representative Fujian buildings. "A Yingyin building with a square pattern of four slopes and five ridges. The exterior walls are made of local granite stones, which are either stacked or built. The craftsman's techniques are simple but powerful, outlining the perseverance of the island people who are not afraid of the harsh environment." This is The words I read in "Walking in Taiwan" before, in just a few words, outline the architectural style of Qinbi and the personalities of Qinbi people, making people yearn for it just like the legend of the Pirate House.

Yes, this is Qinbi! Surrounded by the mountains and the sea, stone houses are arranged in a ladder-like manner according to the mountains. They are stacked on top of each other in a well-proportioned manner. The abrupt but interesting decorative slogans on the walls of the houses bear the mark of the confrontation era. Looking at it today, they can't help but feel... My heart smiles. The grandma washing the pots at the door of the house, the tabby cat taking a nap on the roof, and the little white dog wandering around the alley are all charming and flowing scenery against the backdrop of granite. There is a stone house, so old that only one wall remains. The door panel on the wall is missing. The door frame has become a veritable picture frame, and the picture in the frame is the sparkling sea in the distance. Standing still and gazing at it, there is something quite a bit strange. The vicissitudes of beauty of the Parthenon on the Acropolis of Athens.

Suddenly, a bright purple and red light dazzles the eyes. This is the careful decoration of the owner of the B&B. The transformation of the stone house into a B&B and cafe is an act entrusted by the local government to the private sector, and it has also given the vicissitudes of Qinbi settlement a new look. After visiting Beigan, sit outside in the parasol courtyard, listen to the sound of the waves, watch the sea and sky, the sunset, and the stars in the sky, writing the most romantic page of this trip.

Matsu's personalized B&B Qinbi Mediterranean B&B:

This B&B is located near the mountains and the sea, and the blue sky connects to the vast sea view, giving people the illusion of being in the Mediterranean. The traditional Mindong stone house style, coupled with a green grassland in the side yard, blends modernity and classics, Chinese style without losing European style. The hotel owner will not only go to Beigan Pier to greet the guests, but also tell tourists how to have the best time in Beigan, help them inquire about gull-watching boats or sea fishing boats, and also provides Matsu-style Qiguang cakes and coffee for breakfast. Friendly and very caring.

Address: No. 54, Qinbi Village, Beigan Township

Telephone: 0886-836-56611 No. 25, Qinbi Village:

Both are traditional granite stone houses , looking out from the elegant small window in the guest room, you can see the beautiful stone roof tiles of Qinbi Village. Coupled with the design of the skylight, waking up in the morning with the sunshine spreading all over the floor is comfortable and cozy. Outside the B&B, there is an incomparable sea view that will make you feel relaxed and happy. It is simple and unpretentious, but it is stunning in every way.

Address: No. 25, Qinbi Village, Beigan Township

Telephone: 0886- 836- 55628 Niu Lan B&B:

Niu Lan B&B maintains the appearance of a stone house building It is very popular among backpackers, not only because it is close to the pier and has convenient transportation, but also because the interior layout is full of art, and a variety of books and artworks can be seen everywhere inside and outside the house. The host of the B&B is warm and hospitable, and always communicates with the guests with a "making friends" mentality, which makes the backpackers feel particularly warm. At sunset, don’t forget to have afternoon tea with your friends in the courtyard on the second floor. While looking at the sea view of Nangan, you can enjoy the afterglow of the setting sun.

Address: No. 124, Fuxing Village, Nangan Township

Telephone: 0886-952-26078 Jinsha Cultural Village:

This B&B has three buildings in one *** Architecture, the appearance of the guest house in the ancient street is in the traditional Fujian architectural style. The stone walls are made of granite stamped blocks. The Aozhong houses are wooden style houses. After climbing up the winding stone stairs, you will find that they are different from other Tianjin houses. Guanhaishanju, which is adjacent to the sandstone house, welcomes you. Stepping onto the second floor of the B&B, you can have a panoramic view of the vast Matsu Seaview and the complete Jinsha settlement.

Address: No. 71, Jinsha Village, Nangan Township

Telephone: 0886- 836-26190