The slogan of coriander

When I was a child, I was very sleepy. I was called by adults several times in the morning and didn't want to get up. Suddenly, "Tofu-hot, hot, tender ..." came from outside the yard. I couldn't sit still any longer. It is such a simple cry, which is kind and touching and deeply rooted in people's hearts. I immediately turned up from the bed, picked up the bowl, asked my mother for two cents, and then rushed outside.

At that time, street vendors had a set of skills, and small bags, baskets or trolleys could be filled with all kinds of goods. I remember a woman selling pickles. Her cart is full of dazzling things, and her cry is crisp and sweet: "Make soy sauce vinegar, mustard bumps-pickles …" These vendors are very regular every day, and they come to my yard to sell things on time every day. At that time, every family didn't have a refrigerator, but they were all fresh.

I feel that the peddler's tone may have been handed down from his ancestors. It's the same old story, and many names and pronunciations are very different from now. For example, the waste collector shouted, "Sell that book, paper, newspaper, rubber shoes, shoes and sports shoes, broken bedding and rotten lid, and sell that glass bottle …" "Broken bedding" is old rags, "rotten manhole cover" is old cotton manhole cover, and "glass bottle" is wine bottle, oil bottle and medicine bottle. In the past, it was still popular to directly exchange domestic garbage for small commodities. For example, some vendors shouted, "Go home and look for it. Long hair, rags, scrap metal and old rubber, and toothpaste skin will be dumped like a mixture."

In Beijing, the hawking sound of street vendors and the characteristics of hawking everywhere are called "shouting". Vendors all over China are hawking, with various and colorful voices and melodious tones. At that time, both adults and children had an intuition when they heard Hawking's voice. At that time, the traffic was inconvenient, and all consumer goods, including food and use, were taken from street vendors. Therefore, no matter where people live, they have formed an indissoluble bond with street vendors and become an indispensable part of life.

As long as I can remember, Hawking's cries are all kinds and strange. There are vendors from other places, mobile vendors in Qingdao and special vendors in Changzhou. Although these vendors have different voices, they all support the town with various flavors from the 1950s.

"Who will buy hair oil-osmanthus oil?

"Who bought it-small root garlic?"

"Who buys-who cleans vegetables?"

Nose made in Changzhou

Is it wrong to sell Niang flowers?

"welding tin cans"

"Grinding scissors-Tang kitchen knife"

Collect garbage, copper scrap and aluminum scrap-

Sauced tofu, stinky tofu

"Tofu brain is hot and sudden."

"shovel basin, shovel bowl and shovel cylinder,

"broken money"

With the progress of social civilization, today's small traders use tricycles, small tractors or trucks instead of cars to push their goods, and they don't have to shout all over the street. They all use loudspeakers, just recording the hawking and playing it over and over again. Don't worry about getting thirsty at the end of the day. The petrol drinker also recorded pop music in public, instead of shouting, pedaling a tricycle and playing "Butterfly Lovers" on the loudspeaker, which sounds quite absurd.

In the gap of life, the familiar cries of selling in my hometown often ring in my ears when I was a child. Then, I remembered the bitter and simple days, and I missed more, which produced many reverie-.

For example, selling watermelons in summer:

"Come on, have a taste. The iceman's watermelon is crisp and sandy; Triangular teeth, the size of a boat, the flesh of rock sugar; The stuffing of the Mid-Autumn Festival moon cake in August, the banana leaves can't be blown away, and the bees make a wrong nest here; The sand in your mouth is sweet, two big boys ... "This short lyric is simply a miniature literary work, a comparison, a metaphor and a rhyme. That is, there are straightforward boasting and hidden foreshadowing. Every sentence closely surrounds the sweet sand of watermelon, and there is not a sentence that is not full of temptation and is not annoying to listen to. After impressing the buyer, the price finally came out: "two big boys and a tooth."

For example, the vegetable seller shouted:

"Coriander, er, spicy green pepper, eggplant, lentils, hard garlic seedlings, white cucumber, white lotus root, frosted melon of lentils and tomatoes, spare coriander, leeks, chestnut-flavored noodles, old pumpkins, carrots, radishes, Chinese toons and leeks. . 。” Why do you need to spare coriander when buying melons? There is a time difference: when I get home, I wash the melon, cut it into pieces, and choose coriander when steaming in the pot. Just in time. A few small words show the rationality of careful calculation. Even a man with a flat head should live a refined and tasteful life.

Most of Xi's "drinkers" are concentrated in street food stalls and night markets, such as Beiyuanmen Street, Damai Street and Dongxinjie Night Market. Especially in the north gate, food stalls are clustered together, and the shouts are naturally loud. "Roasted mutton! Authentic roast mutton! " There "cry high! Jujube mud cake! " There are also several treasures, such as "bean paste buns, sugar buns, millet cakes, black rice cakes, buckwheat cakes, jujube cakes and cornmeal cakes!" " You can sip 70 or 80 kinds of food in one breath. The shouts are one after another, which is still a landscape of this street.

Another family in Xi 'an who makes a hullabaloo about is the itinerant peddler. Although people are scattered and individual, their shouts are more distinctive. This is inevitable, you think, if his cry is not novel enough, if it is not beautiful enough, can you call out the old and young who stay at home? I remember living in Beisifu Street when I was a child, accompanied by the sound of rattles, "sugar-noodles-people!" As soon as the shouts rang, the children nearby flew out from every household and surrounded the vendors selling syrup and kneading dough. Adults in charge of money are slowly catching up with them. Look at the vendor's performance. He supported a square thick iron plate on a small charcoal stove, brushed hot syrup on the iron plate several times, and immediately drew a small flower or a bird supported by a small stick, which was beautiful and delicious. The children are very happy, and adults are willing to pay for it satisfactorily. The dough kneading machine is more unique. Homemade white dough, in the hands of vendors, squeezed out a pig three times and two times. The ears and stomach were so exaggerated that the children laughed. The vendor also held money in one hand and shouted proudly, "Sugar-noodles-people are coming!" "

In the northwest wind on the yellow land, this clear voice is very loud. First shout the first word loudly, then drag the cavity smoothly, and the last note must be heavy bass. For example, "awesome-cake!" "Change-rice!" "Corn flour fish-stir the ball!" The shouts are cadence and sonorous, much like the local Qin opera. Yuan Haowen, a poet in the Yuan Dynasty, said in "A Picture Book of Qin People": "The customs in Guanzhong are thick, the hostages are righteous, the customs are generous, and the songs are old in Qin and Han Dynasties." Described the characteristics of Qin people's rap. Mr. Liang Shiqiu, a writer, recalled that when he was a teenager in Beijing, he heard the cries and shouts in the street outside the courtyard, which was as charming as hearing the Beijing opera cantata. It seems that shouts from all over the country can represent a little local drama. Perhaps this dramatic singing evolved from the early shouts.

I think street hawking in xi 'an is a kind of folk culture, just like Shaanxi opera, just like Xi 'an's old house. Unfortunately, nowadays, Shaanxi opera is gradually declining in cities. In recent years, with the large-scale construction movement, there are fewer and fewer old houses in xi 'an. Perhaps there are too many royal scenic spots in Qin, Han and Tang Dynasties in Xi, and the folk customs in Ming and Qing Dynasties are not a pity. No one is so eager to protect folk customs as the writer Mr. Feng Jicai. With the development of the times and the clean-up of the city, there are fewer and fewer vendors in Xi 'an, and the shouts are more and more Xiao Su. In this small street where I live now, that family has been guarding the big pot of jujube paste cakes for generations, and now it has closed its stalls. Most sneaky mobile vendors ride bicycles or tricycles. They are flexible and play cat-and-mouse games with urban management. What makes people laugh and cry is that some shouts have been replaced by horns. Some vendors have installed electric speakers in their cars, and there are pre-recorded chips in them, so they can play them while walking. For example, in this small street where I live, the biggest cry every day is "hey, hey, hey, hey, hey!" This is a recording. I don't know whether the people in the office heard it or not, but they think the hawker's voice is really loud.