How did women make up in the Tang Dynasty?

Thrush is one of the traditional makeup techniques of ancient women in China. There is a cloud in Qu Yuan's "Songs of the South": "White powder is black, Shi Fangze is talented ... green and straight, beautiful eyes." It shows that as early as the Warring States period, women who love beauty began to shave with lead powder and turn themselves into beautiful women with black thrush. The "Dai" used by early female thrush was made of a bluish-black ore called "Shi Dai", and musk and other spices were added. Yan Shigu in the Tang Dynasty recorded in Memorabilia that during the Sui Dynasty, the snail Dai made by Persians was introduced into the court and was cherished by empresses. This kind of Dai is also called moth green. Yang Di likes to watch his favorite Wu Jiangxian thrush. Every time, he is "leaning on the curtain and worrying, but can't move". In the Song Dynasty, the bluebird headgear introduced from the western regions became popular. Yan's "Six Orders" describes it as: "Come to Cuimei Palace late and learn from the distant mountains skillfully." "Far Mountain" is a popular eyebrow style in the early years of the Western Han Dynasty. According to what we say today, thrush fashion in Song Dynasty is a retro fashion in Han Dynasty.

In the history of our country, many kinds of eyebrow shapes have been popular, among which the most common one is moth eyebrow. In The Book of Songs Feng Wei Shuo Ren, the beauty Zhuang Jiang wrote, "Soft hands, skin coagulation, collar like a salamander, teeth like rhinoceros, cicada chop." Her eyebrows are curved and thin, like a moth's beard. China's Notes on Ancient and Modern Times said that when the Three Kingdoms were in the Wei Dynasty, the imperial secretary "flew moths and eyebrows, and was shocked by heaven." Its shape is wide and short, and its color is light. Advocated by women at that time, it has been popular until the Tang, Song, Ming and Republic of China. The beauty of moths has even been endowed with many profound meanings. For example, Qu Yuan's Li Sao wrote that "many women are jealous of the beauty of moths, and they should be good at adultery", which means that the beauty of many people is pointed out by the beauty of moths. In ancient times, "moth" and "moth" were commonly understood. After Li Yu, the queen of the Southern Tang Dynasty, lost her country, she wrote Tears for Gong E and Sauvignon Blanc, which she wrote when she was in office, praising women's eyebrows: "The blouse is thin and thin, and the snail is light and light." In contrast, it's completely two kinds of moods.

At the end of the Han Dynasty, a folk song at that time was recorded in the Biography of Ma Yuan, "... the city is so wide and half-browed." It can be seen that "wide eyebrow" is a very popular eyebrow type from court to folk. Later, in the Taiping Magnolia, "wide eyebrows" were compared to "half forehead". According to the meaning of the text, wide eyebrows are about a very thick thrush style. Ge Hong in the Eastern Jin Dynasty described Zhuo Wenjun's eyebrows as distant mountains and his face as hibiscus. "Distant mountain" is also a common eyebrow type in the Han Dynasty, and Zhao Hede, the princess of the Han Dynasty, is such a distant mountain. The distant mountain may be a distant and slender eyebrow painting, just like the distant mountain behind a pool of autumn water in ink painting. In China's Notes on Ancient and Modern Times, Ji's wife Sun Shou innovated her own makeup method, and changed her suspicious eyebrows into locked ones. The eyebrows are thick, slender and twisted, and the eyebrows are upturned. It is said that they are inherited from Wen Jun's distant eyebrows. According to "The Story of Mizhuang Taiwan", Wei Wudi ordered the imperial secretary to draw a green eyebrow, which is connected with the head eyebrow and is very long, so people call it "fairy makeup". Yang Guifei of the Tang Dynasty had white makeup and black eyebrows. At that time, women followed suit and called it new makeup. Xu Ning, a poet, described this trend of following the trend as: "Once the new makeup is old-fashioned, the six palaces will struggle to draw black eyebrows."

powder

According to legend, in the Spring and Autumn Period, Qin Mugong's youngest daughter, Nong Yu, married Shaw History, who also liked oral sex. Shaw History knew magic. He not only used a flute to attract phoenixes and cranes, but also used mercury to make powder, named Fei Yun Dan, to make up for Nong Yu, making the beautiful Nong Yu more white and outstanding. The out-of-touch immortals live on the Phoenix Terrace built for them by Qin Mugong as soon as possible. One day a few years later, they were seen to die happily. The ending of this story is too idealistic. In fact, the young couple may have been poisoned by the mercury they contact every day. But the ancients were fascinated by the life of immortals and preferred to believe that they were immortals. Legend is not history, but we can know how eager the ancients were to seek beauty.

Gunpowder has a long history in China. In Everything is done wrong, it says, "So, the beauty of beauty is bad for our faces, twice as good as when we use cosmetics and powder." ; Song Yu described the girl next door as so beautiful in "Ode to a Disciple" that "the powder is too white and the Zhu is too red." It shows the important role of powder in women's makeup. In ancient times, not only women who loved beauty liked fufen, but also men liked it for a long time. Sima Qian's Historical Records records that all officials of Emperor Hui of Han Dynasty loved Fu Zhifen. In Wei Lue, Cao Cao's adopted son said that he was "complacent and turned white". In "The People of A Jin", Pei Qi also recorded: "There was a man named, who worshipped a captain Xu with her husband, and his face was extremely white. Wei Wendi suspected that he was wearing powder, and it was summer, so he called to eat hot soup cakes. Since you are sweating like a pig, you can wipe your body with a red coat. When the color turns bright, the emperor will believe you. " During the Six Dynasties, men began to get used to applying powder. Several emperors in the Southern Dynasties were called Lang Jun for applying powder because they liked this style.

3. Rouge

Rouge is the floorboard of facial fat and oral fat, and it is the main cosmetic matched with cosmetic powder. In ancient times, rouge was also called Yan Zhi, Yan Zhi or Yan Zhi. There are two different opinions about the origin of rouge: First, rouge originated in Shang and Zhou Dynasties, and was made by women in Yan Di who concentrated red and blue flower juice into fat, because it was produced in Yan State. It is recorded in Notes on Ancient and Modern China: "The white front is like a flower, and the natives in the western regions are dyed. It is called Xu Changqing, and China people call it red and blue powder. " There is another saying that in 139 BC, Emperor Wu of the Han Dynasty sent Zhang Qian to the Western Regions. The trip to Zhang Qian not only strengthened the ties between the Han Dynasty and other countries in the Western Regions, but also brought back a large number of foreign cultures and national customs, including rouge. Judging from these two statements, rouge should have originated from Xiongnu and then spread to Han. In the Eastern Han Dynasty, Ban Gu came back from his mission to the Western Regions and said, "The famous wife of Xiongnu said she was as lovely as Yan Zhi." Now there is also Rouge Mountain or Rouge Mountain between Yongchang County and Shandan County in Gansu Province. I wonder if it's a name handed down from ancient times to the present.

Song Yu's "Goddess Fu" in the Warring States Period wrote, "The eyes are bright and beautiful, and the beauty is impressive." Juan with eyebrows and lips like Dan. "In Tang Cen Can's" Drunk Play Poetry ","the lips are a small peach blossom. "It's all about the beauty of women's red lips.