How to maintain Bromus under the mountain (on the cultivation and management of Bromus)

Bromus: alias sour plum, rhamnaceae, Bromus. Climbing shrubs with spiny stems; Leaves opposite, blue-green, leathery and shiny, with small serrations on the edge; Pale yellow in color, flowering in winter, bearing many fruits after flowering, black when mature, edible, sweet and sour. Sex likes sunshine, is heat-resistant and cold-resistant, and should be cultivated in loose and fertile soil. There are three kinds of Bromus inermis: big leaf, middle leaf and small leaf.

I. Cultivation techniques

The transplanting time of Bromus in Guangdong and Guangxi is from October of the lunar calendar to April of the following year, especially from Xiaohan to beginning of spring. Being between dormancy and germination at this time can reduce the consumption of trauma and is beneficial to germination.

Just bought Bromus, first remove unnecessary branches, cut all the fractures into new mouths again, and seal the fractures with tin foil. If possible, the wound can be sealed with healing agent to reduce water evaporation and avoid wound infection. Retained branches should be retained for a longer period of time. Except for bud points that need to be used in the future, the length of branches with more than four bud points should be maintained to prevent branches from shrinking and dying, especially waste branches and branches with obvious waterways. Unwanted branches should also be retained and their growth should be controlled. After the main channel of the branch becomes the needed branch, the waste branch and the unnecessary branch should be sawed off.

When the root is sawed from the inside to the outside in a proper position, an inclined section with an upward slope will be cut. When planting, the soil will adhere to the inclined section, which is conducive to rooting. If the slice is not attached to the soil, it is easy to produce callus nodules without rooting. If necessary, keep the roots long and cut them off after they survive. Roots lose water after leaving the soil and must be completely cut off. Attention should be paid to Aimu bonsai, and the treated pile embryo should be soaked in 0.5% potassium permanganate solution for 30 minutes for disinfection. If it is too long to leave the soil, it should be soaked for more than 30 minutes, or even soaked for one night for disinfection and hydration. After disinfection, spray disinfectant such as chlorothalonil or carbendazim on roots or whole body for sterilization.

The treated Bromus sparsifolia can be transplanted, but because the roots produced by ground planting are few and can not form flat roots, it is best to plant them in pots at the beginning to induce more roots, and then plant them in the ground the next year. If it must be planted underground, it is best to enclose a planting trough about 40 cm high with bricks, cement boards, wooden boards or root controllers to increase the thickness of the soil layer. The bottom of the planting trough should directly touch the ground without partition. When planting, the soil layer can be about 5 cm higher than the root. Too shallow is not conducive to water conservation, and too deep may wet the roots. The soil used for planting must be loose, breathable and permeable plain mud, preferably humus mud between rocks, or 1/3 cinder and 2/3 plain mud. After planting, drench the soil once. Because some mud blocks may not absorb enough water at the first time, they should be drenched again the next day, and then every four or five days or when the basin mud is found to be dry, so as to keep the soil moist, but not too wet. After planting, cover the pot surface with black shading net, which is beneficial to rooting and moisturizing. Keep spraying water on the trunk for moisturizing for more than 3 ~ 4 times every day. The sun is too strong and needs shading. When Bromus inermis buds grow to about 20 ~ 30 cm, the leaves are still fresh and tender, and lateral branches grow out, which is a sign of survival.

Second, management and maintenance.

When the new buds of newly planted Bromus are 1.5 ~ 20 cm, the buds should be thinned, the middle buds should be removed, and the buds on both sides should be ventilated. When new branches grow lateral branches, light fertilizer can be applied for the first time, and it is best to spray light foliar fertilizer first. The foliar fertilizer can be synthesized by commercial products, or by adding three tablespoons of potassium dihydrogen phosphate and one tablespoon of urea to 30 kilograms of clean water. After spraying, observe whether the new pile is fertilized for two or three days. If the plant germinates faster than before, it proves that the new pile has absorbed fertilizer, and then root fertilization can be carried out. It is best to spray the leaves of Bromus Bromus with clear water every two or three days to clean the dust on the leaves and improve photosynthesis. Pay attention to Aimu bonsai. After planting bonsai with Aimu, adhere to the management of big fertilizer and water, fertilize the roots and leaves once every 7 days or so, and spray disinfectant such as chlorothalonil or carbendazim on the leaves and upper and lower surfaces of bromegrass every 7 ~ 15 days to prevent powdery mildew and rust. Potassium fertilizer is applied once a year from March to April when the branches grow to 15-20cm, and once in June 6- 10/October. Bromus inermis planted in the upper pot needs to be drenched with ferrous sulfate and potassium dihydrogen phosphate twice a year.

After thinning the shoots and branches of Bromus. Pile, the remaining branches are stocked all year round. In the meantime, more than half of the branches and leaves on the trunk should be cut off once in May-June to facilitate ventilation and light transmission, reduce pests and diseases, and concentrate the growth potential of branches. After thinning in May, it is easy to appear in July and August, so try to keep it in the future to speed up growth. Next year 1 month or so, all the rest will be cut short, and the main branches will be 30 ~ 40 cm long. After being cut short, the end of the main branch will branch out again, keep the second main branch, and then stock it (that is, the principle of raising a main stem with several branches). When the main branch grows thick enough, all useless branches will be cut off and sawed off except the second main branch. Then reserve the third main branch in the proper direction of the second main branch, and so on. However, it should be noted that the big branches are sawed only once a year, and it is best to cut the saws from the end of February to the beginning of June 65438+ 10. After each cutting, the wound should be sealed with tin platinum paper immediately to overcome the phenomenon of local dryness and necrosis and ensure that the branches are fresh, healthy and not rotten.

The broom pile needs to plant the main branch before leaving the secondary branch, and start to leave the secondary branch after three times of shearing and sawing. As long as the branches of Bromus sparsifolia are sufficiently thick, ventilated and maintained in place, there will generally be no phenomenon of "retiring after success".

Close-up of tree top

Third, the shape-preserving rejuvenation of the formed Bromus

It is best to turn the pot once a year and change the mud once, and it must be changed once every two years at the latest. After planting on the ground for 3 ~ 4 years, broom piles should also be dug up, and the long roots should be cut short and the small roots should be left, because the big roots don't raise trees, and the small roots raise branches and claws. Pay attention to Aimu bonsai and play bonsai with Aimu. Sparrows should be thinned during pile raising to avoid consuming too much nutrition.

During the maintenance period, a basin larger than the exhibition basin should be filled with mud and placed on it. After a long time, the roots of Bromus will grow from the bottom of the basin, absorb nutrients, and ensure the root development of Bromus, so as to flourish, fresh and healthy. When you meet an exhibition, you can cut off the root of the basin bottom.

Every year, more than half of the branches and leaves on each branch are cut off, so that the inner hall of Bromus can get sunshine, which is conducive to ventilation and reduce pests and diseases.

When the branches (toothpicks) are aged or the proportion is too long, they should be properly retracted, re-cut and re-pulled out to ensure the smooth waterway of the branches.

It is best to water in the morning in spring and autumn, once in the morning and once in the evening in summer to moisten the branches and leaves, and once in winter. If broom piles are often short of fertilizer and water, fiber aging and dead branches are most likely to occur.

Do a good job in daily fertilizer and water conservation. Don't believe that the formation of Bromus inermis needs long-term water control and fertilizer control. Just add proper fertilizer to scissors and smoke toothpick sticks, and you can put an end to the phenomenon of "retiring after success".

Finally, we should pay attention to prevent virus and fungal infection while preventing insects every year, which is also one of the important reasons for the slow death of Bromus.