Walking in Wuyuan, the picture scroll painted with ink paintings

This article comes from the Mafengwo blogger - Xiaomo Travel Vision

It’s spring and March again, and I can’t remember the small bridges and flowing water in the south of the Yangtze River, the apricot blossom houses, and the bluestone rain alleys. , there is a swallow flying sideways. The weather in the north is still chilly, but the sunshine in Jiangnan has become so warm that it is almost blazing.

"The flowers bloomed again and the flowers bloomed into the sea, and the sea rose again and flooded the water." Qi Yu in the speaker was singing the old song left by Sanmao. The familiar melody made me feel like I was in a trance. It went back to the old days of my childhood when I would hide in the attic and secretly play the tapes I found on a tape recorder.

Memories always bring tenderness to the corners of the mouth. The wildness of Wuyuan must have been dyed yellow all over the mountains. Although there is no wind and sand and stories mentioned by Sanmao, there is no lack of warmth and poetry. romantic. Then let’s go to Wuyuan again. I can’t remember how many times I have visited Wuyuan. At this time of my first trip last year, the commercialization of Wuyuan tourism has just begun. In the blink of an eye, time flies by and time slips through my fingers like sand. How many years have passed.

Walking on the street, there is a vast expanse of smoke and water. Occasionally, I stop and lower my eyebrows, listening to a flower interpreting the fragrance of life. In the distance, there is a vast field, like an ocean blooming in the sun; black tiles, white walls, light In Yanchang Lane, hold an oil-paper umbrella to cover the sun and windows that are lower than the eaves, and listen to the breeze blowing through your luggage and the rain playing music in the corner; the ancient village ancestral hall, the single bridge across the river, the smoke from the cooking pots at the foot of the mountain, and the trees beside the stream. There was a woman in washcloth beating her clothes, and I was waiting by the country road, hoping to meet by chance. It turned out that Wuyuan was still the same as before.

After riding the high-speed rail for several hours, we arrived at Wuyuan Station in the evening. The station is not far from the county seat and it takes about ten yuan to take a taxi to the business district. Check in at Huadu Hotel today. The hotel is located in a prosperous area of ??the county, adjacent to Wuyuan Cultural Square and Landscape Bridge. There is a restaurant street downstairs. The taxi drivers on both occasions recommended the "Zijia" restaurant as having good food, and locals often go there for food.

Unexpectedly, I had to wait too long for a table during the meal, so I finally went to the "Yi Jiangnan" restaurant on a certain review list. Stinky mandarin fish and Taihe rice cakes are its signature dishes. The prices at restaurants in the county are very reasonable and there is no price gouging due to the peak tourist season. As the saying goes, "The long bridge is full of lights, when you are drunk and waiting to go home." After you have had a drink and a meal, you can walk to the landscape bridge to enjoy the long bridge with lights.

Take advantage of the first ray of dawn to go to Moon Bay. In the early morning, the morning mist hangs over the water like a veil, and the white walls, black tiles, golden flowers, and green water are blurred in the mist. It is both fantasy and reality. The boatman is holding a bamboo raft on the lake, and the fishing nets he throws occasionally are dyed into golden mist by the morning sun. Being in it, it seems to be standing in a splash-ink landscape painting, and deeper and further, it is vaguely shrouded in boundless silk. In the dreamland where the rain is drizzling like sorrow.

The best angle for viewing and photographing Moon Bay is on the hillside across the road. There are two trails leading to the top of the mountain. One is narrow and dangerous and there is no toll, and the other is flatter but requires a ten yuan entrance fee. A viewing platform has been built on the mountain to view the complete crescent-shaped lake. When the rapeseed flowers bloom into a sea and the sun rises and sets, the whole world seems to be painted into brilliant but not strong gold.

What is the word for "yanmo"? The drizzle washes away the sorrow, the water is like a hook, the moon is like a hook, and half of the smoke is lost in the blue waves. Climbing high, the sky and the earth are far away, green pods and floating cloud towers, long mountains, long winds, thousands of miles of green mountains and a solitary boat.

The cost of taking a bamboo raft is about 10-20 yuan/person.

After lunch, we headed to Huangling, an ancient village hidden in the mountains.

In addition to autumn, the rapeseed flowering season in spring is another best tourist season in Huangling. If the weather is good, some crops will be placed on the drying racks to dry.

On the ancient streets of Huangling Village in the spring breeze, the most beautiful thing is the contrast between the little pear blossoms and the white tiles and white walls. "Winds and rains, pear blossoms, narrow curtains, and small window screens." In the trance, there is a shallow and light emotion that permeates the air with the mist and rain, but it is not like the frustration of Sheng Heweng. This is the spring in the south of the Yangtze River, separated by the past. It's melancholy.

At this moment, I suddenly remembered Bian Zhilin's "Fragment of Chapter". The two words were changed to suit the situation: You stand on the bridge and look at the scenery, and the people watching the scenery are watching you upstairs. The breeze decorates your windows, and you decorate other people's dreams.

Wuyuan is one of the six counties under the rule of ancient Huizhou. Huizhou was called Shezhou and Xin'an in ancient times. Its geographical location is today's Huangshan, Jixi and Wuyuan areas. Huizhou culture is one of the three major regional cultures in China, the other two being Dunhuang culture and Tibetan culture.

Huizhou is a heavy book, a book that records the changes over the years, a jar of fragrant wine, a jar of wine that has been brewing for thousands of years. In this thick historical book, we can see the four migrations of aristocratic families from the Northern Central Plains to the south at the end of the Eastern Han Dynasty, Western Jin Dynasty, Sui and Tang Dynasties, and Northern Song Dynasty. They brought advanced production technology and Central Plains culture, and Huizhou gradually prospered. Become a regional cultural center. Since the Southern Song Dynasty, this place has become a Jiangnan resort with beautiful scenery and rich cultural heritage. During the Ming and Qing Dynasties, Huizhou merchants flourished here and dominated the world. Huizhou also gradually integrated its own unique regional culture, including Huizhou merchants, Hui opera, Hui cuisine, Hui carvings, Xin'an Neo-Confucianism, Xin'an medicine, Xin'an School of Painting, and Hui School. Huixue, which is composed of cultural and artistic forms such as seal cutting, Huizhou architecture, Huizhou bonsai, etc., together with Dunhuang studies and Tibetan studies, is known as the three major local famous schools in China.

Huizhou architecture flourished under this cultural and economic background and became one of the most important schools of traditional Chinese architecture. In ancient Huizhou, the style of honoring ancestors was prevalent. Ancestral halls, residential buildings, and archways are typical representatives of Huizhou architecture, and are known as the three unique ancient buildings in Huizhou. It combines the aura of mountains and rivers from the outside, and integrates classical culture into the inside. It has a unique style, rigorous layout, exquisite carvings, and is full of rhythmic beauty.

The eyes are green and red, small and exquisite, and the flying eaves are slightly moist under the clouds. The embroidery threshold shows spring, the golden house is wide and the flowers are wide, but who cares about the narrow rhombus. The Huizhou architecture in Huangling is most indispensable for the details of the cornices, carved dragons and hollow flower windows. From a distance, the four corners of the building are raised high, with wings spread out to fly, or as erratic as a dream, but there is a mellow elegance in the movement and stillness. Youmeng is surrounded by deep shadows of flowers. When you open the carved window and look at the distant mountains, you will see scenery inside and outside the window.

A wisp of mist, a curtain of fallen heroes. Cut a piece of cloud satin with dark green background and weave it in March Jiangnan. The wind blows away the candle smoke, the water flows away and misses you, and the flowers fall in a fleeting time.

Wearing a plain shirt and a white fan, a solitary lamp reflects the wind. Pick up a ray of floating mist dyed through by the morning sun, and paint the mountains and rivers with splashing ink. The wind blows away the dawn cold, the water flows away all the joy and sorrow, and the flowers fall into the world.

Looking at the bluestone towards the evening, I patted the railings all over, but no one would notice, and my dreams were waning.

Outside the village is a sea of ??rapeseed flowers all over the mountains and plains. Starting from the cableway station, passing through the four pavilions of spring, summer, autumn and winter and the yew forest at Shuikou, you can reach the No. 1 viewing platform and overlook the Wanwan. acres of terraced fields and a sea of ??flowers. Not far ahead is the Woyun Suspension Bridge. The long bridge is hundreds of meters long and reaches both ends of the valley. The stream is gurgling under the bridge, and there are two transparent glass panels in the middle of the suspension bridge. When you walk on it, you can feel the breeze blowing from the valley, making you feel like you are about to become a fairy. Behind the suspension bridge is Observation Deck No. 2. In addition to the terraces and sea of ??flowers where you can take photos, there are also newly developed experience projects such as zip lines nearby. If you are interested, you can try them out.

It just so happens that the peach blossoms on the roadside are in full bloom, but they remind me of Banquedian’s crimson lips: the mist is vast and the sun is setting thousands of miles away. There are countless mountains. As red as rain. Don’t remember the time and the way you came. In the distance, there are thousands of mountains and countless Muyun Mountains. Nearby, the flowers are blooming into a sea with no way to travel. I am walking like a car, straight into the depths of the flower path, not thinking about the way back.

There is also half an acre of heart-shaped pond among the flowers, which is like a gem dotted in the golden sea. On sunny days, it reflects the clear blue sky, and on rainy days, there is also smoke, no matter the weather is good or bad. , has its own various styles.

Looking through a telephoto lens, the most beautiful angle is the pear tree in full bloom in the terraced field of flowers. Although it is a solitary branch, it does not look obtrusive at all. This finishing touch makes the flower sea look like wonderland.

There are two main ways to go up the mountain: cableway and scenic sightseeing car. The package (scenic spot ticket + cableway round-trip ticket) is 145 yuan. Taking the cableway can overlook the yellow and green terraced flowers from the air. Tips: 1. Wuyuan County is less than 20 minutes’ drive from Moon Bay. You can take the east-line shuttle bus from Laobei Station or take a taxi directly from the county. The main road is narrow and prone to traffic jams. The parking areas are mainly in Beside the road. It takes about 50 minutes to drive from Moon Bay to Huangling. It is very convenient to take a taxi in Moon Bay during peak season. 2. The queue time for the Huangling Cableway is very long during the peak season, so you need to pay attention to planning your time for going up and down the mountain.

It was getting late when we arrived at Jiangling, but it was the best time to take pictures of the sunset. However, the weather was not good, so we had to give up and stay at a farmhouse in the Jiangling scenic area for the night.

I got up at five o'clock in the morning and looked at the weather forecast. It was still cloudy, so I continued to sleep until about eight o'clock before going out. Spend most of the day wandering in the fields of Jiangling to live up to this wonderful spring.

Jiangling is located in the northeasternmost part of Wuyuan County, bordering Xiaoqi to the south and Xitou to the east. It is one of the four largest rapeseed flower seas in China and a world-class photography base.

Similar to Huangling, the rapeseed flowers in Jiangling are also spread out in terraces across the vast sky and earth, winding around mountains and ridges, layer upon layer, like ladders reaching into the clouds, at random heights. Climbing high and looking into the distance, the distant mountains look like eyebrows, the flower paths are like rouge, and there are several Huizhou villages and houses with gray tiles and white walls dotted among the golden flowers and green leaves. A breeze passes by, bringing mist and mist flowing in the mountains. What a natural splash-ink landscape.

If the essence of Huangling is to visit the ancient town and the sea of ??flowers at the same time, then the scenery of Jiangling is naturally to step into the depths of the sea of ??flowers, appreciate and shoot the infinite scenery from all angles, and hold an umbrella to open the The flowery you may also become a scenery in other people's lenses.

There are dolls hidden in the sea of ??flowers. This fresh and fresh picture reminds me of the fields in Pai County, Chiang Mai.

Hey, isn’t this Xiong Da Xiong Er and the others?

We arrived at Qingyuan in the afternoon, an original ecological ancient village that does not have a strong commercial atmosphere. Qingyuan is a relatively remote village on the east line of Wuyuan, more than 60 kilometers away from Wuyuan County. It is also known as Xiao Taoyuan and has a history of more than 1,300 years. A creek more than ten meters wide passes through the village, dividing Qingyuan Ancient Village into homes on the east and west banks.

As soon as you step into the village entrance, you can see the golden ocean, and the sea of ??flowers in the ancient village complement each other. This ink painting cannot be completed without one of them. There is a "Bieyoutian Ancient Pavilion" built at the entrance of the village, where ancient people used to see off guests and say goodbye, but now it is a good place to rest. In the old days, the horizontal couplet on the pavilion read "The Deepness of Taoyuan", which is where the name "Little Taoyuan" comes from.

Although Qingyuan does not have the momentum of the tens of thousands of acres of flowers rising from the sky in Huangling, Jiangling, it has the appearance of Xiaojiabiyu. The flowers outside the village bloom into a sea, and the small bridges and flowing water in the village are most gentle and gentle in the south of the Yangtze River. style.

In addition to the rapeseed flowers outside the village, there are also hundreds of flowers blooming in the village. In front of and behind the houses, on both sides of the streets and streams, peach blossoms, pear blossoms, and apricot blossoms bloom in sequence. The breeze dances, and butterflies circle the flower stream, which is like snow. The tender white is mixed with the red of rouge, and the sunlight reflects the charming light and shadow. You might as well leave half a day free, slow down here, and appreciate the quaint houses and spring scenery along the way. Every flower is a vigorous life, from blooming to falling, just like our wonderful life blooming in the world.

Whose smile is it when you pass through the flower curtain by the stream? The moment you look back, the whole small village changes from the simple black and white ink to the meticulous and light colors of Jiangnan.

Embraced by a green mountain, a stream surrounds the village, a green stone street, and several rows of simple ancient houses. Wandering in the drunken spring light all the way, listening to the petals opening one after another, the wind is light and gentle, blowing slightly wet on the face; the clouds are fluttering and swaying, and the flowers are graceful and dancing with the wind. Even time couldn't help but slow down, admiring this pastoral poem flowing among the green mountains and green waters.

The simple and kind-hearted villagers live leisurely and contentedly. "The eaves are low and the grass is green on the stream. When drunk, Wu Yin is so charming. Who is the old lady with gray hair?" is just right here.

The village is small and still retains the original and rustic rural atmosphere, quiet and indifferent. There are only a few farmhouses and restaurants in the village, and there are few tourists, and most of them are people who come here for sketching, photography and other creative purposes.

Since it is a cup of Taoli Chunfeng wine, there are naturally several small wine shops hidden among the flowers. The homemade rice wine and kiwi wine are very delicious.

Thousands of miles away from the mist, with a light heart, brush away the fallen flowers and dust in my heart. At this time, if there is a little hazy mist and rain, it will be more suitable for the scene. Flowers, water, poems, clouds, the wind comes slowly, and a leaf floats in the mist and rain.

We arrived at Chapingping in the evening. This small village, known as "Heaven's Home" by photography enthusiasts, is even less visited by tourists. You may have to turn three or four pages of the Wuyuan scenic spot rankings on various major platforms to find it. , and without the guidance of local people, it is difficult for you to see the breathtaking scenery here. I at least saw several tourists in the comment area who said they didn't see much scenery.

I live in the Cang Yan Luozhao Room.

The slightest thing is irrelevant. Pour out the remaining jade and walk through the bamboo, roll it up and lie down in the yellow pavilion to look at the mountain. It is another paradise of otherworldly beauty.

Tips: 1. There are very few farmhouses in Chaping, so you need to book in advance during peak season. 2. Chapingping is located deep in the mountains with rugged roads. You need to drive or charter a car to get there. A health fee of 20 yuan per person is required to enter the village. 3. Check the flat scenery outside the village. It is best to ask the locals for the best viewing spots.

We set off from the village at around five in the morning, and under the leadership of the farmhouse owner, we trekked up the mountain road for more than 20 minutes to reach the viewing platform. Looking around, there are only a few photographers with long guns and short guns, but no other tourists. They set up their tripods, set up their lenses, and waited for the sea of ??clouds at sunrise... Yes, the most spectacular scenery here is the vast sea of ??clouds.

Ever since I was a child, I have longed for the boundless scenery described in "The bright moon rises over the Tianshan Mountains, among the vast sea of ??clouds" and "The clouds are thousands of miles away, and the snow falls on thousands of mountains, and only the shadows go to whom." I have climbed many famous mountains, but I was unlucky and most of the clouds I saw were sparse. I have never encountered such a spectacular waterfall cloud here and now.

The vast sea of ??clouds is boundless, and who is connected to the sky? Flowing clouds spread across the sky and the earth in sight, spreading out into a vast ocean all the way to the end of the world and to the edge of the sea. With the wind in the mountains, huge waves sometimes surge and sometimes clear waves flow. In front of the magical work of nature, words are spoken. So feeble.

The world is like a chess game, at the top of the vast sky. Life is like a dream, and the rivers and lakes are far away. Facing the wind and facing the moon, the mountains and rivers are rolled into each other. Qingping ancient tune, several paragraphs. Draw your ambitions near the mountains, ponder your thoughts near the water. The wind blows thousands of miles, and the homeland looks far away. Climb high and look far away, the road blocks the river. Romance, a few chapters.

The most spectacular time to check the flat sea of ??clouds is when the sun rises from the mountain peaks behind it, sending thousands of feet of golden light to the majestic sea of ??clouds in the distance and the sea of ??rapeseed flowers in front of you, painting the vast and solemn heaven and earth. Smart colors.

Walking around the small mountain village, I suddenly discovered that the hillside behind the village has an excellent viewing angle. The distant mountains, sea of ??flowers, and ancient villages merge into an ink painting of a country.

The lingering fragrance lingers from the flower-dyed lattice window, and the dew stains the clothes and the morning light is cool by the slanting breeze. The nine-curved corridor has boundless spring scenery, admiring the mountains and rivers, and looking back at the moment when the breeze blows into the tent and the clouds gather. The flowers and birds are in the spring breeze, don't express your feelings, the moon is getting old as time goes by, just look at the time.

The road to Qiancun Mountain is dangerous and it is quite strenuous to climb, but when you stand on the top of the mountain and look around, you will have a different style. As the saying goes, "the infinite scenery is on the dangerous peak."

< p>Here are the golden flowers that bloom unbridled and invade the paths, small houses deep in the sea of ??flowers in the mountains, and simple and elegant villages. I really want to stay here and be a hermit, regardless of spring, summer, autumn and winter, without caring about worldly affairs. , live a safe life.

This is the farmhouse where we stayed, and it is also one of the few inns in the village.

In the afternoon, visit the Jialu Umbrella Factory in Jialu Township.

The willow wind in March, the apricot blossom rain in April, every rainy day in the south of the Yangtze River, a scene will appear in my mind: pink walls, tiles, misty rain, and fallen flowers. water. An oil-paper umbrella, a cheongsam or a student uniform of the Republic of China, walking on the dark bluestone in the quiet ancient town, listening to the breeze walking through the streets, the years have passed by, covering the past, a small boat carrying time, I still remember when I was a child What the bridge and flowing water looked like when they first met.

This idea probably comes from Dai Wangshu’s song "Rain Alley": Holding an oil-paper umbrella, wandering alone in the long, long and lonely rain alley, I hope to meet a lilac-like knot. A sad girl. She has the same color as lilac, the same fragrance as lilac, and the same sadness as lilac. She complains in the rain, mourns and hesitates; she wanders in this lonely rain alley, holding an oil-paper umbrella, just like me, just like me, silently Walking around, cold, desolate, and melancholy.

Umbrella makers patiently and meticulously polish the ribs, install the canopy, trim the edges, expose to the sun, color, draw, oil, and air-dry, and finally bloom into a landscape in their hands. I love the blue and white porcelain the most, the mist and rain in the south of the Yangtze River, the oil-paper umbrella, the blue and white porcelain, Jay Chou's song seems to be lingering in my ears: The sky is blue waiting for the mist and rain, and I am waiting for you. The smoke from the kitchen is rising thousands of miles across the river, and the Han Dynasty imitation is written on the bottom of the bottle. The elegance of the past is just a foreshadowing for me to meet you

The last stop of the Wuyuan trip is Sikouzhang Village, which has the longest bench bridge in the south of the Yangtze River.

Watching the setting sun gradually creeping over the white tiled walls of the ancient village, a small fishing boat suddenly came up in the afterglow. The old fisherman was carrying a wine pot, and the taste of the vicissitudes of time was hidden in his gray beard and wrinkles. .

Decades of life are only spring, summer, autumn and winter. The white-haired fisherman and woodcutter on the Nagisa River is used to watching the autumn moon and spring breeze. Happy reunion over a pot of wine. Many things in ancient and modern times are all talked about with laughter.

I have always disliked the phrase commonly used in travel notes about Huizhou and Wuyuan: "I have never dreamed of going to Huizhou." It completely misunderstood Mr. Xianzu's original intention. Regarding Huizhou, I prefer the song by Zhao Shixiu of the Southern Song Dynasty, "Mountains surround the city with clear streams, and white clouds and blue peaks are difficult to paint. Wild colors are hidden in the buildings and terraces everywhere, and the sound of reading is lit in every house."

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