What should you pay attention to when raising ornamental shrimps?

I found some information for you and hope it helps. In fact, no matter what kind of aquarium you raise, the most important thing is to raise water. Everyone knows how to raise water, but not many people are really patient and careful about raising water. No matter what you save, you can't save time on raising water. There is no need to go into details here about how to raise it. The posts in the forum are very detailed. Everyone can understand it after diving and learning. This step is the first and most critical step on the road to shrimp farming. Only in a well-shaped water environment can shrimps grow healthily.

Filtration - The filtration of shrimp tanks does not mainly rely on physical filtration, but powerful biochemical filtration. Therefore, for physical filtration, a filter bucket is not necessarily necessary. A simple upper filter can solve the problem. Wrap the water inlet of the pump head with water fairy cotton, and try to use porous drainage for the outlet of the upper filter tank. , to avoid damage caused by excessive water impulse from a single head. Of course, it must be mentioned here that those who can afford a filter bucket should try to use a filter bucket, and it is best to add a pre-installed filter bucket. Because the function of the filter barrel is not only physical filtration, but also its biochemical filtration is very powerful, which is something that the upper filter cannot do. Let’s talk about the biochemical filtration of the shrimp tank. Biochemical filtration is mainly accomplished by nitrifying bacteria, which has only one purpose, to decompose ammonia (the number one killer of shrimp tanks). For a 60cm standard tank, it is best to use a two-headed water fairy on each of the left and right tank walls. In this way, the digestive system can be established for half a month before shrimps can be introduced. Finally, let’s talk about the bottom filter. Personally, I don't think it's the best. The instructions for use of ADA Mud clearly state: Do not use the bottom (lower) filter. Of course, using a bottom filter has its effect, but I can only say that it is not necessarily good when used in shrimp tanks. Cultivation of anaerobic bacteria and nitrifying bacteria is not focused on bottom filtration. The front bucket can basically support the function of anaerobic bacteria cultivation (most people in Taiwan use double buckets in series, I think one of the reasons is this.). The bottom filter does activate the bottom bed, but it will accelerate the nutrient loss of ADA mud and accelerate the powdering. Moreover, I really wanted to use bottom filtration to decompose the BB of shrimps. I did a comparative test and the results of the nitrate test were basically the same. Of course, this only represents my personal opinion. After all, I am also very knowledgeable. You may have your own explanations for using bottom filters, but at present, the two crystal shrimp tanks I use to raise shrimps without bottom filters are running normally.

Mud and plants - there is a misunderstanding here, the amount of mud. How much mud should be spread on a crystal shrimp tank, and how is the best way to spread it? My personal opinion is: 604040 cylinders and half a bag of ADA generation mud are enough. Why? Here we will talk about the plants needed for the shrimp tank (the laying of mud is mainly affected by the plants planted). In a shrimp tank, the more plants you plant, the better. The combination of plant species also affects the growth of shrimp. (The specific reasons are very difficult to explain) I only recommend some suitable plants here. The best combination I have tried (604040 standard tank): 2-3 negative grasses with well-developed root systems (thick roots) (positive ones are also acceptable, It is best to be negative (to reduce oxygen consumption) + appropriate amount of mousse (mousse wall is not recommended) + foreground grass on the bottom of one-fifth of the tank. In such an environment, shrimps can lay eggs quickly and have a high survival rate. The ammonia at the bottom Easy to be broken down and absorbed in a short period of time (this needs to be complementary to the ability of the digestive system). How to spread mud? Everyone thinks that no matter how thick and sufficient the paving is, it is actually a waste. More is not necessarily good. When paving the mud, spread it thicker and thicker along the diagonal from one front corner to the other diagonal corner (the back corner), because the back corner needs to be planted with 2-3 thick-rooted shade plants. In the front, there is so little mud that it is okay to expose the bottom glass (as long as it is not for viewing).

Stones and driftwood - don’t put the stones as much as possible. But there are two kinds of stones that need to be mentioned in particular (maybe they are not stones, haha): medical stone and montmorillonite. I don’t need to say more about montmorillonite. I hope that the whiteness of the shrimp will be improved. It is basically indispensable. And once you use montmorillonite, never use only a small amount to save money, because a small amount equals nothing. To put montmorillonite, the amount must be doubled. For the 604040 cylinder, it is recommended to use 8-10 pieces of long-lasting montmorillonite (about 150 yuan). Of course, montmorillonite is not a necessity. Friends who have financial resources can use it, but friends who really think it is expensive don’t have to use it. It is a luxury product in the first place, helping to cultivate the quality of shrimp and maintain water quality. The main thing we want to talk about here is medical stone. I have read the article about medical stone in Lithuan. The test is very good and the writing is wonderful. I have also done experiments myself, using a large amount of high-quality medical stone as the base sand for laying, and the effect is outstanding.

Although medical stone has the effect of neutralizing water quality, the requirements for crystal shrimp's pH value are not so stringent. Even if it is close to neutral, there is no big problem (of course it cannot be cultured in alkaline). At that time, I bought medical stones for water purification (which can be used to purify drinking water). They were expensive and were used to lay the bottom mud. The bottom layer was a thin layer of ADA generation, and the middle layer of medical stones (covered) , there is still a layer of ADA generation on top. The water quality has remained quite stable, and the shrimp's hair color has also improved. At that time, because I really didn't want to spend money on those whitening drugs, I came up with this experimental method. Fortunately, it did work. As for the dead wood, you can place 1-2 pieces of dead wood tied with mousse for the shrimp to hide. Of course, this is also optional. Finally, I recommend honeycomb wood (also called shrimp wood). The effect of this thing is really great. It's really worth spending a lot of money to buy it. Improved the survival rate of juvenile shrimp. It is many times stronger than just using mousse to block.

Lighting - Many people ask about the impact of strong light and weak light on shrimps. My experience is: strong light and weak light seem to have no effect on shrimps. The real impact is that shrimps need a transition from weak light to strong light. How to explain the process from weak light to no light? In other words, the three single-tube light stands I prepared turn on and off at different times, which is close to the process of light changes throughout the day (of course it is only very small). The process of scribbling is far different from the rising and setting of the sun). The shrimp's change in light requires a process, and sudden changes in light will have a certain impact on the shrimp. Of course, this one may not make much sense. Because there is no qualitative change, it is just that compared to the previous use of only one kind of lighting, the phenomenon of shrimps flying around unsteadily when the lights are turned off is basically invisible now. As for the kind of lamp used for reptiles that helps shrimp absorb calcium and whiten it, I have not used it, so I can’t comment here.

Calculated in this way, the actual cost of shrimp farming equipment is roughly as follows: 604040 tanks + filter barrels + water goblins + air pumps + half a bag of ADA generation mud + light stands + deadwood + grass (leaving aside the winter and summer temperatures) (excluding heating rods and cooling fans), about 500-600 yuan. With such a set of equipment, it is basically no problem to raise shrimps well. Compared with burning equipment, it really saves money. If you don’t need a filter bucket and just use a filter, you can do it for 400 yuan.

Continued from the previous article, the 500-600 yuan fee mentioned above belongs to the equipment fee for opening a crystal shrimp tank. In fact, the reason why crystal shrimp costs more than other shrimps is in the measurement and maintenance of water quality in the future. It is important to measure water quality regularly and improve water quality. If maintained well, shrimps will grow well and will not suffer what people call inexplicable death. In fact, the death of shrimps is basically a situation, and your water quality has deteriorated. Water quality deteriorates, which can be said in just four words, and the knowledge is extremely great.

Counting on your fingers, there is a lot of data to be measured and a lot of reagents to be purchased, such as PH/GH/KH/NO2/NO3, etc. It is scary to hear it. If you don't buy, something unexpected will happen, and taking risks out of desperation is more terrifying. Then everyone has to ask, among these data, what must be measured and what must be measured frequently? With so much data, what is the priority? Here I will tell you some of my views on these data measurements. First, if you are determined to test, don’t use test strips. The test strips have too much error, and the test is basically a waste of money. Second, the most necessary data to measure is not pH and hardness, but NO3. This data is directly linked to the shrimp survival rate. Unpredictable. It seems to be the most expensive among the test reagents, right? But if NO3 is not measured, I think there is no need to measure other data. But looking back, one bottle of reagent can last for more than half a year. When averaged out, it only costs ten yuan per month. Ten yuan is worth the peace of mind. It is best to measure pH and hardness, but the frequency of measurement does not need to be as high as the frequency of nitrate. The pH and hardness are mainly measured when the cylinder is opened and within 1 month of opening the cylinder. To put it bluntly, it means giving yourself peace of mind. If you open the tank according to the method I will describe next, generally speaking, the pH and hardness values ??can be controlled well, and the test data will fall within the required range. And be careful with daily care so that the pH and hardness will not change too much. You might as well think about it, if you don’t take care of the shrimp tank, even if you find there is a problem with the data, will you be able to solve it? At most, I get anxious looking at abnormal data.

Cylinder opening for beginners:

Step 1 - cylinder processing. It is recommended to use finished cylinders.

You definitely cannot ignore the problem of glass glue in the self-adhesive tank, but many people are not good at disinfecting with potassium permanganate. Only experienced people can control the amount accurately. To save trouble, buying a ready-made tank is the best choice. No need to disinfect, just rinse with water. Remember, rinse it with pure water for the last time. Even if it is processed. Next, there is not much to say about the equipment for paving mud. Be careful not to seal the filter water inlet at the beginning of the tank with cotton. Seal it again after the shrimps are in.

Step 2 - Add water and raise water. Many people say that ADA1 generation yellow water and muddy water are indeed true. However, whether the water is handled well or not is closely related to the time it takes for the water to turn yellow and muddy. Let’s briefly mention the issue of water intrusion. How to add water to prevent the mud in the tank from being washed up? First, you need a relatively flat plate, place it where the water pipe will enter, and then put a clean ADA mud bag (or a large cut plastic bag, preferably thicker) on the bottom of the tank. (Do not put anything in the tank except mud before entering the water). Connect the pure water bucket with a water pipe and use siphon water inlet to adjust the appropriate water flow. In this way, the impulse of the water will be minimized. After testing, it was found that due to the effect of this layer of plastic bags and plates, the water was basically not mixed, and it was completely clear after one day of filtering. After entering the water, the long process of raising water begins. We must not save or shorten the time. After opening the tank, turn on the filtration, turn on the water fairy, and then add good nitrifying bacteria (dry powder type is recommended) after normal operation for one hour. Do not add plants to the water for the first three days, and wait until the fourth day to transplant the plants. After planting the plants, turn on the lights and continue to operate for 10 days (lights on for 8 hours a day). Those values ??can be measured regularly throughout the process and the water supply situation can be closely observed. The above process has been tested and should not be reversed if possible. Try to use half pure water and half cultured tap water when opening the tank. Many people recommend using the old water from the previous tank. To be honest, I don’t really recommend it. Each tank has its own digestive system, and there is no conclusion on whether it is good or bad when mixed together.

Step 3 - Buy shrimp and add shrimp. After raising water for half a month, you can consider buying shrimps. A big no-no for newbies – buy the shrimp first and then start the tank. Whether it is cherry blossoms or crystals, please take them seriously and be kind to life. The shrimps are introduced as soon as the tank is opened, and the environment suddenly changes, which is simply torture for the shrimps. When buying shrimps, try to buy shrimps bred by local shrimpers. To say the least, try to buy local shrimps, shrimps raised in the water by fish dealers. Bringing shrimp from other places involves a high risk of crossing the water, although it is cheap. Not recommended for novices, but OK for veterans. Each region has differences in water quality. Take the shrimp home, open the bag and let it float on the water for a while. Get used to the temperature first. After about 15 minutes, you can add some water in the tank appropriately. Be sure to add it slowly and don't add too much at one time. After slowly adding 4-5 spoons of water, place the bag horizontally with the bag mouth submerged in the water. Maintain convection of water inside and outside the bag. Don't worry about it next, just wait for the shrimp to slowly swim out on its own. Don't rush to dump the shrimp. When all the shrimps enter the tank, the process of crossing the water and entering the shrimps is successfully completed.

Step 4 - Feeding. Shrimp must not be eaten for 3-5 days after entering the tank. You won't die of hunger, don't worry. Eating in advance will only cause leftover food to rot and water quality to deteriorate. The same goes for cherry blossoms. Start feeding after 5 days, and gradually increase the amount. Don't be too hasty. It is best to feed from a food plate, which can properly control the excretion of shrimps and remove leftover food in time. The amount of feeding should be controlled to 2 shrimps and one grain of shrimp food, 2 shrimps and one red worm, and 10 shrimps and one small piece of spinach leaf (the three foods are juxtaposed, which does not mean that you need to feed three kinds at one time). Controlling the BB of leftover food and shrimp greatly reduces the pressure on the digestive system, allowing the digestive system to function better. Overload is always bad. Let’s talk about shrimp food, this is also a headache for everyone. When feeding shrimps, what should we feed them? Everyone agrees. In fact, it all makes sense, but the most important thing is to maintain consistency. Crystal shrimp is a relatively delicate species of shrimp. What it fears most is not the type of food it eats, but changing the type of food it eats. It is afraid of change because it has poor adaptability. The most direct and convenient way to feed shrimps in good condition is to find out what the person who sold you shrimps used to eat. You don’t have to worry about preparing for this or that, just stick to the eating style of Xiami before. This is the best. If you feel that the shrimp seller’s feeding is too simple or complicated, you can add or reduce the types of food appropriately and in a timely manner. But don't overlook previous food varieties. Don’t keep changing food types.

Step 5 - Water change and shrimp disease prevention. As mentioned above, crystal shrimp hate changes the most, so the biggest fear in a shrimp tank is to turn it over.

It is best not to attempt to overturn your tank unless absolutely necessary. If you really have to turn over the tank, be prepared. Only by imitating a water environment of the same water quality can the shrimp be moved out. Otherwise, the shrimps will die for you one by one. There is no fixed opinion about changing the water in the shrimp tank. If you want to change the water, you must first test the water quality (NO3). When the water quality starts to deteriorate, change the water appropriately. If the water quality remains good, there is no need to change the water. Just make up the amount and evaporate it appropriately. of water will do. All should be rehydrated with purified water (it will not affect the current water quality). Changing water is a matter of knowledge and is determined by experience. When the water quality is poor, shrimp behave differently than usual. Even when it's time to change the water, you only need to pump up to a quarter of the water from the bottom and replace it with new pure water. Control the water flow when changing and be as careful as possible.

There should be some missing parts. I'll add it when I find it. Basically there is no problem.