Shuhe Ancient Town, Lijiang, Yunnan, where it is very quiet in winter.

Quiet winter here in Shuhe Ancient Town, Lijiang, Yunnan/Wenxilan

The early winter is cold and the sun is warm.

Strolling on the Qingshiban Road in Shuhe Ancient Town,

I've never been so quiet,

The noise of this city is disappearing,

Accompanied by music from the sun,

Let your mind wander freely,

Let time slip by quietly,

I just want to, in the quiet river,

Listen to a beautiful and old story.

After swimming in Lashihai, it was about four o'clock in the afternoon, and I decided to go to Shuhe Ancient Town without hesitation. The enthusiastic driver took me to the back door, pointed to the road ahead and told me that you can visit the whole Shuhe River by going straight along this road. And told me to try to get back to Dayan before eight o'clock. At this stop, I expressed my sincere thanks and farewell to Afu, an enthusiastic driver who impressed me deeply.

Shuhe, called "Shaowu" in Naxi language, is a village named after a mountain, which looks like the peak of a pile of foundations. It means "village under the peak". It is one of the earliest settlements of Naxi ancestors in Lijiang Bazi, an important well-preserved market town on the ancient tea-horse road, a living specimen of the transition of Naxi ancestors from agricultural civilization to commercial civilization, and a model of market town construction formed by opening up and caravan activities. Shuhe is an important part of Old Town of Lijiang, a world cultural heritage. In 2005, Shuhe was selected as a "charming town in China" by CCTV.

Walking slowly on the clean bluestone road of Shuhe River, there are few pedestrians, all of them are leisurely. Bars, restaurants and inns are deserted, and many of them are closed. In contrast, there is no hustle and bustle of Dayan ancient city here. Its rhythm is obviously slower, more subtle and more beautiful. What comes out is another kind of slow life that is lazy to the bone, which makes people feel unprecedented freedom and relaxation.

Such a leisurely ancient town is really suitable for people who choose to travel and relax. It is not noisy and noisy, and there is no noise in any corner. It has always maintained an aloof and indifferent appearance, and its strong life atmosphere has not diminished. Compared with Dayan ancient town, this is two extreme temperament, one is quiet and the other is noisy. Unfortunately, the noise of the big research sometimes makes people unable to enjoy the beauty of the journey calmly, while the quietness of the Shuhe River, like fine water flowing slowly, makes people slowly indulge in it and like it more and more.

Whose corn is densely covered with the whole wall, and under the irradiation of the warm sun in winter, it projects a half-bright and half-dark light and shadow, and the warm tone adds a little bright color to this winter. I used to think that only the fertile northeast would meet a large cornfield with a lot of corn to eat. Because I love eating corn too much, this has become one of the important reasons why I choose to study in Northeast China without hesitation. Later, with the rich experience and more and more places, I will gradually find that there are many places in the vast motherland where large tracts of corn are planted, not to mention Yunnan, where the seasons are like spring.

A city with warm seasons is of course decorated with flowers and plants. If you walk around casually, you will find that even in the chilly early winter, flowers are blooming everywhere, completely ignoring the seasonal changes.

The courtyard of Shuhe ancient town is not high. Occasionally, when I look up, I can always meet a flowerpot standing quietly on the fence, facing the breeze, the blue sky and the sunshine, and trying to grow.

Seeing this scene, I always think of the photos taken by Chengdu's good friend Qiangzi of four Chengdu people playing mahjong in the rape field in spring. In this warm winter sun, several old people sit around and play mahjong to relax their leisure time, talking and laughing. Isn't it a kind of happiness to get this leisure after most of my efforts?

To tell the truth, this is the first group of people I met in Shuhe ancient town, all of whom are locals. Their serene faces are engraved with vicissitudes of life, and their dark skin depicts the imprint of plateau life. I really wanted to capture this rare scene, and I didn't ask permission. Unexpectedly, my grandmother who was watching mahjong next to me saw me pick up the camera and blocked my face like a conditioned reflex. I am deeply sorry for disturbing people's comfortable life after all.

Out of nowhere, a chubby long-tailed puppy ran across the street, leaving a long shadow in the sun, and then disappeared into the corner in an instant.

The stone road of Shuhe River is narrow and curved. Walking in it, you can't finish it at a glance. You think this road is impassable. As you get closer, you will find that there is always a sudden turning point next to you. It is this turning point one after another that connects the blue sky, white clouds, breeze, weeping willows and wooden buildings in the town together ... just like a curved rope, it closely connects the quiet residence. The irregular arrangement of green slates has formed a leisurely path for town residents and foreign tourists, recording every lazy pace and every pleasant walk.

Every step, there will always be different scenery waiting for you. Every scenery can give people unexpected surprises. I don't know if the flowers on this graceful branch are a kind of plum blossoms, but it is a kind of luck to meet this grand bloom in the depressed winter. This finely divided white flower, coupled with uneven branches, is simply beautiful under the blue sky.

The afternoon sunshine makes my shadow very long. In this way, I wandered aimlessly in the streets of the ancient town, blowing the wind in the warm sunshine, smelling the faint flowers everywhere, and looking at the refreshing greenery everywhere, a sense of happiness and satisfaction came to me.

Looking around, there are the most inns in the ancient town. It is said that the backpacker's ten-year inn opened by Tucki, the author of "Ten Years of Backpacking", is also in Shuhe Ancient Town. This big coffee in the tourism industry is admired or worshipped by many travelers and backpackers, and naturally attracts many people. I didn't deliberately look for this inn. I just think that all the inns here have their own characteristics. They are all arranged and planned by the owners, and they all have unusual stories, which are worth appreciating slowly.

It is said that most of the merchants and innkeepers here are foreigners, because Shuhe River is beautiful and pleasant, and they have never left since they came. They yearn for a quiet and casual life, so they create their own small world with their own feelings and interests. Whether it is an inn, a bar or a slap shop, it is based on Naxi style, either elegant or gorgeous, or simple or modern.

Some also have strong characteristics of the host's hometown: the atmosphere of quadrangles in the north keeps pace with the elegance of small bridges and flowing water in the south; European and American styles are close to the charm of Tibetan Buddhism. The beauty of Shuhe lies in its tolerance, atmosphere and diverse tastes. Every place is a painting and every point is a scene.

The signboard of the restaurant stinks. Did the boss write it himself?

No wonder many people recommended that you stay in Shuhe before coming to Lijiang. This place is really more livable. Wake up in the morning, push open the window sash, and the Naxi dwellings with blue bricks and green tiles are still quietly immersed in the morning light. The faint alley is silent, and the weeping willows are gently brushed. What a pleasant thing it is to smell the flowers, bask in the sun, have breakfast and start a new day in a sunny yard.

Shuhe is more than seven kilometers away from Lijiang. Although the layout and mode here are the same as Dayan Ancient City, there are the same square streets, the same big stone bridges and the same bluestone streets … but the air here is comfortable and quiet. Because it is closer to Yulong Snow Mountain, the gurgling stream in front of and behind the house is much clearer than Dayan, and there are pieces of aquatic plants floating in the stream, which is fascinating and intoxicating.

The small decoration in front of the inn is also very unique.

Kind and simple store name, natural and creative wooden sign, can't help but want to take pictures. But the attraction here does not stop there. Creativity is everywhere, and here is full of surprises.

Small bridges and flowing water, antique wooden houses, leisurely people, can't stop and stare everywhere. The quiet town makes people feel the passage of time. Commercial places, however, exude the atmosphere of literature and art everywhere, and feelings can be seen everywhere.

Yananju likes these three words very much.

In this village under the snow-capped mountain, the sunshine always smears the earth with the warmest and brightest gesture. This lovely dog stood quietly in front of Lissman's coffee, as if thinking and waiting for someone to arrive.

On another step, three puppies are immersed in a dream, enjoying the beautiful winter scenery. In Lijiang, the only place where small animals can dream so recklessly outdoors is Shuhe Ancient Town.

If you are not careful, you will think that you have come to Europe. Shuhe River is really an all-encompassing place. If you travel all the streets, you will find that you have enjoyed the scenery of half the world.

The thriving Longmen Inn. This can't be the Longmen Inn often mentioned on TV. Look at the banner in front of the door. It must be a gathering place for travelers and photographers from all over the country.

I found a photo of super girl Sitar tan in an inn. On 20 10, Sitar tan filmed the MV "In Shuhe" in Shuhe ancient town. When she first arrived in Shuhe ancient town, she was deeply intoxicated by the beautiful local scenery. Later, inspired by this, she wrote a song on the theme of environmental protection, In Shuhe. The shot in the MV is like her perspective, and the whole work is that she leads fans to visit Shuhe Ancient Town.

Slowly go deep into the streets and lanes, and you will be unconsciously attracted by the ubiquitous Naxi ethnic elements. Dongba's ancient hieroglyphics, Dongba sheepskin drum, Dongba's unique national music, dance, various dishwashing bars, Dongba's paper workshops, leather goods, Dongba's paintings, sculptures, Dongba cultural shirts, etc. They all exude a strong national flavor, which is overwhelming and intoxicating.

Of course, there are pottery houses, wood carvings, embroidery and Naxi women's costumes. ......

All this makes people naturally indulge in this artistic atmosphere unintentionally. Although they don't know them, they can't help but want to get close to tracing the source of these mysteries, to explore its deep context and to appreciate its magical charm.

In this quiet corner, everything grows freely, and antique and natural freshness are perfectly integrated, making people fall in love instantly. This corner is always reminiscent of the colorful private garden of Yang li Ping, the dancing god, in Kunming, which is a world envied by many people.

Under the blue sky, quaint buildings and blue tiles are even more vicissitudes, as if telling a story that will never end. Simple and quiet architectural style reveals a touch of warmth. In the story of a foreign country, the two stone lions at the door are mighty and majestic. The words "Chai Men smells dogs barking and is happy to be an old friend" instantly narrow the distance between the host and the guest.

Lazy. Mood. The whole person is lazy like an advertising slogan. Wandering in different cities will always make people find a different life and a different mood.

Blue flowers, emitting elegant breath, quietly open, dotted with a corner of the inn.

Son of the desert, here comes the juicy gentleman! It grows naturally, and it is so beautiful. Maybe the flowers here don't need to be smashed according to climate change like other cities. They are afraid of freezing in winter and sunburn in summer, so careful care may not lead a good life.

The scenery in the glass bottle is exquisite and transparent.

I always thought that the Shuhe River was not big, but I didn't expect it to go deeper and deeper, as if it could not go to the end. And I've never seen such a deep view. It's charming.

Walking along the alley on the left side of the restaurant, there used to be a sinkhole. Sure enough, the unknown scenery is the most attractive.

Walking through a series of characteristic inns, small restaurants and bars, it turned out to be a slightly higher mountain. Standing on the mountain, the scenery you see is completely different from what you see in ordinary alleys. With this in mind, I resolutely moved forward. The road is deserted and windy. When you meet tourists in twos and threes, ask if there is a way to the top of the mountain. Enthusiastic travelers told me: there is no one on the mountain at this time, so hurry, or it will get dark. And tell me the path up the mountain in detail.

This should be the Jubaoshan mentioned in the previous introduction. The huge prayer flags on the top of the mountain swayed between heaven and earth, making a crackling sound, forming a realm of heaven and earth. In the afterglow of winter, it became a beautiful scenery in the valley.

Blue, white, red, green and yellow flags quietly guard this land and protect the residents in this sparsely populated valley on the top of the mountain.

Looking from the top of the mountain, you can see the whole picture of the ancient town. The whole village still maintains the original ecology of ethnic minorities. The gray tiles are stacked and the houses are scattered. It's clear and quiet here, and only the sound of hunting can be heard on the surrounding flags. The mountains in the distance seem to be covered with a layer of white gauze, which adds a bit of mystery to this small village.

The folk houses here are a model of Naxi nationality with the atmosphere of northwest Yunnan plateau, with the distinctive characteristics of "three rooms and one wall (the room is higher, the rooms on both sides are slightly lower, and one wall is added)". Residential buildings built on the mountain have an organic and complete unity with nature. The ancient city is surrounded by many tiled houses and lush green hills. The houses in the city are simple and vivid in modeling and exquisite and elegant in decoration, which is the crystallization of Naxi culture and technology. All this also stems from Naxi people's profound understanding of life.

Some people say that ancient dwellings are the reappearance of an epic of national life. In this village under the snow-capped mountains, I touched the walls of those ancient and old houses again and again, touched the life expressed by the ancient Naxi wood and stone bricks, and touched the signs of their survival in rural memory, as if the pulse of life was passing through those ordinary wall tiles, which had spread into my palm and then into my heart.

A tower-shaped mani pile rises with aura. Manidui has a unique Tibetan cultural atmosphere, like a picture of the earth shining on the plateau. Every stone embodies the voice of believers. Although I didn't find any scriptures, six-character mantras or Buddha statues on the stone, I still didn't dare to disturb these gods, just watching from a distance.

The top of the mountain is cold and windy, and the bare trunk is shivering in the cold wind, which is slightly sad in the gradually darkening winter sky.

The dead branches on the top of the mountain are sacred in artistic form, which can be viewed from a distance but cannot be ridiculed. I vaguely feel that people living in this valley are a very religious group. They advocate nature, cherish life and advocate the life concept of harmonious coexistence between man and nature.

The mountain wind is blowing, the sun is setting, and the sky is getting dark. I should go down the mountain.