How to use the joint sealant for ceramic tile? Construction steps of tile joint sealant

The caulking agent is an upgraded product of caulking agent, and its decorative practicability is obviously better than that of caulking agent, thus solving the problems of unsightly and dirty tiles. So how to use the joint filler for ceramic tiles? What's the difference between it and ordinary caulking agent construction? Next, I will bring you the construction steps of tile sealant, hoping to help you.

How to use the sewing agent?

1, full filling construction: the gap of the tile is empty, and there is nothing in it, so the joint sealant is directly filled; Generally do 2-3 times sewing agent, or even more times; The cost will also double.

2. Semi-filling construction: ceramic tile gaps are filled with jointing agent; Clean the edge of ceramic tile with joint cleaning tool (for bonding sealant); Inject sealant once with a depth of about 0.8 mm.

Construction steps of caulking agent:

1. Brick joint treatment: joint can be filled or not. If the caulking material needs to be completely dried, caulking agent can be used for construction, and the caulking depth should be at least about 3 mm.

2. Cleaning treatment: Before using the caulking agent, use a vacuum cleaner to suck up the dust in the gap of the ceramic tile, wipe both sides of the gap of the ceramic tile with a towel to remove dust, oil stains and other pollutants, and at the same time use a cleaning shovel to remove the pollutants on the surface of the ceramic tile.

3. Stick masking paper: If the tile is antique brick or pockmarked brick, stick masking paper in front of the beautiful joint, and don't stick tiles. When sticking masking paper, the surfaces and gaps of ceramic tiles should be kept clean and dry. Mask paper should be pasted on both sides of the gap. In order to ensure the effect of crossing, it is suggested that the construction interval between horizontal and vertical lines should be 24 hours. Both sides of the textured paper are cut neatly without burrs, the width is not less than 2CM, and the adhesion is good, but there can be no glue residue.

4. Sewing: Select the real porcelain glue with the required color, install a special mixing tube, install a special high-quality labor-saving glue gun, and extrude 30g real porcelain glue at the front end to make the real porcelain glue fully and evenly mixed. When sewing, the mixing tube should be perpendicular to the surface of the tile as far as possible, so that the real porcelain glue can fill the gap and walk evenly. Grasp the strength and frequency to make the real porcelain glue flow evenly. The suitable temperature is 5-38 degrees.

5. Seam pressing and scraping: If you want the surface of the real porcelain glue to have a moderate camber after curing, you can use special seam pressing steel balls to pull it from one end to the other along the brick seam and keep the stress uniform; If you want the real porcelain glue to be as horizontal as possible with the surface of the tile after curing, you can use a caulking agent or a soft rubber plate to pull it from one end to the other along the seam of the tile to keep the stress uniform and not deviate from the masking paper to prevent the surface of the tile from being polluted.

6. Cleaning and finishing: If the textured paper process is adopted, let it stand for 5- 10 minutes, tear off the textured paper, and remove the surrounding real porcelain glue and residual stains. If the masking paper technology is not used, it will take about 3 hours after sewing, and the semi-cured real porcelain glue on the surface of the tile will be cleaned up with a cleaning shovel.

7, finished product protection: room temperature below 25 degrees, 3 hours surface drying, 24 hours use strength, natural curing for 7 days. Avoid pollution, rain, water rush and walking on the ground within 24 hours after sewing.

That's how to use the tile sewing agent brought by Bian Xiao. Contents of all construction steps of ceramic tile joint sealant.