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Some questions about hamsters

My own experience.

First, prepare to raise things.

1. Cage: If you have a SS, you will buy a cage about 20cm×25cm. If you have two, buy a cage about 30cm×24cm. It is best to buy it at one time. If you buy something suitable and satisfactory, you don't have to return it later. I just bought a small cage and bought a big one. What a waste of money! When you first started investing, you made up your mind to get everything ready. My big cage cost 30 yuan. I suggest you go to Taobao. Very cheap.

2, nest: If you want to live better, you can buy a ceramic nest, like the hippo nest I bought, which is very good. If you don't want to spend too much money at once, you can make it yourself with cardboard or plastic cups. My nest, 7 yuan

3. Bathroom: Hamsters like bathing very much. Getting a bathroom can keep him clean, keep fit and exercise. And the bathroom can also be used as a toilet. 7 yuan

4. Rat food: It was very expensive when I first bought it. You can buy a small bag first, probably 10 yuan. When you settle down in the future, buying a big bag is also cost-effective!

5. Bath salt: Rats must take a bath in Austria, and bath sand must be bought, for the health of rats and for your health. Around 7.8 yuan. You can buy a small bag of 500g when you just bought it, and then buy a big bag when you settle down. Small bags can be used for more than 1 month, and large bags can be used for more than 2 months. If you know how to recycle, it will take longer. Put the wet bath sand in the sun, it can still be used. A pack is cheap, 5 yuan!

6, molar stone: hamster teeth grow fast, too long will affect eating, so it is also important to put a molar stone in the cage. 4. 5 yuan can use 1 or 2 years. Founder 1 2 months ago, the molar stone was chewed off by a mouse.

7, running wheel, vegetable basin, water dispenser, these three cages will match!

8. Snacks: You can buy this or not, but snacks are the best way to get close to mice. Buy some melon seeds and bread worms and give them as rewards when playing! The melon seeds that mice eat are different from those that people eat! ! Hamsters eat raw sunflower, and some places sell rat food.

Second, clean the cage.

1, generally 1 hamster is washed once every 3 or 4 days, and hamster is washed once every 2 or 3 days. Mainly depends on whether the cage is dirty or not, whether it stinks or not, and whether there is much mouse excrement.

2. You can put the mouse in the bathroom or nest, put it in a cardboard box, then take off the cage, throw out the dirty sawdust, wash it, disinfect it with hot water, put it in a cage, put the vegetable basin on it, and then put the mouse in the cage.

In 3.2 or 3 days, the water in the water dispenser will be replaced with new drinking water. Use the water from the water dispenser! No running water!

4. Put on a new bath sand.

Oh, the things to be cleaned are: cage chassis, running wheels, vegetable pots, etc. Remember to dry it with a dry rag after washing!

Three. Illness and injury

Rats and mice can get better by themselves, but some serious diseases need treatment, such as wet tail disease.

Some people who are red, swollen and purulent can generally heal themselves. My little player was bitten by a male hamster, and I was worried. Later, it gradually recovered after 5 days. (* _ _ *) Hee hee ...

Ask me if you have any questions ~ hehe.

Eight taboos of hamster breeding:

(1) Food forbidden for human consumption. Excessive salt and heavy seasoning will increase the physical burden of mice.

(2) Direct contact with sunlight is prohibited. Rats are very afraid of heat. Summer is coming, please use a radiator or marble to cool down.

(3) If it is not necessary, it is forbidden to wash rats with water.

(4) Please know your own rat species. It is forbidden to keep rats living alone or of different species in cages.

(5) If you are not mentally prepared or financially capable, please don't keep the female and male rats in cages. The reproductive ability of mice is amazing.

(6) Feed of unknown origin is strictly prohibited. If there is breeding or mildew, please discard it and don't feed it!

(7) It is forbidden to use newspapers, which contain too much ink.

(8) It is forbidden to keep mice in too small a space, and there must be at least water bottles, food pots, nests and other supplies in the space.

Third, the basic equipment for hamster breeding:

(1) Food basin: Anything, including clean ashtrays, small boxes, etc ... Watch the edges and don't catch mice.

(2) Roller: Please select seamless roller and slotted roller. Rats easily get stuck when running.

(3) Water bottle: the steel ball water bottle is the best, and there is also a dropper. The most important thing is that it won't leak.

(4) Nest: you can make it yourself, using paper boxes, cartons, etc. You can also choose bird's nest sold in the market or use a glass seasoning bottle.

(5) Summer products: marble, radiator, bottled ice, cold sofa, etc.

(7) Warm-keeping products in winter: cotton, warm bags, socks and facial tissues.

(8) Cage: common domestic cage 12-60. There are also high-grade rat cages on the market, with prices ranging from 100-300. You can choose freely according to your personal preference and acceptance. But make sure the mice have enough space to play. ★ Don't use barbed wire for cage chassis, rats are prone to fracture and injury.

Four, hamster feeding basic consumables:

(1) Cushion material: pine sawdust, poplar, laboratory sawdust, etc. It can keep mice warm and absorb water in winter.

(2) Fine cat litter: suitable for summer use. Cool, condense into blocks after absorbing water, and can be scooped up. There are places in the supermarket where you can buy cat products. Don't buy crystal cat litter. Ordinary cat litter will do, and small gray particles will do. ) ★ Fine cat litter, please choose fine cat litter without perfume beads!

(4) For wood chips sleeping mat, please try not to use wood chips with fragrance or too much decorative smell.

Dietary precautions:

(1) Please don't treat mice too cute. If you give them too much sunflower seeds or high-calorie food, rats and mice will easily get fat and have unbalanced nutrition. Overweight mice are prone to heatstroke in summer, their skin fat is too thick, and they are prone to hair loss. Sunflower seeds can be used as reward food for training mice. They just like sunflower seeds.

(2) Please don't think that mice don't need to drink water! Water must be supplied, and drinking water should be changed every two or three days.

(3) Don't feed too many fruits and vegetables at a time, which may lead to diarrhea and death. Most fruits and vegetables contain pesticides. Please wash it with clear water and dry it before feeding.

(4) Snacks should be matched with staple food. Snacks should be increased and staple foods should be reduced. Don't give too many snacks. Fat mice get sick easily.

(5) Please keep the feed and snacks in a sealed jar, which can be put in the refrigerator. Please discard the food that breeds insects and ants.

(6) Bread form is the favorite of rats and mice, but the content of protein is too high. Just give a few at a time, not too much.

(7) Birds' whole grains are the best food for mice, so you can buy some by mixing. Such as corn flakes, buckwheat, cereals, raw peanuts, pockmarked seeds, rice, wheat, sorghum and raw melon seeds, the number of cereals, buckwheat and pockmarked seeds can be appropriately increased. Be careful with fruits and vegetables! ! ! Try to avoid feeding fruits and vegetables with high water content! ! ! The leaves of Chinese cabbage can be left for a day or two, and then fed when the water in the leaves is almost evaporated, so that vitamins can be supplemented to mice. Rats like to eat oily wheat vegetables very much ~

-The mouse is pregnant.

Generally speaking, female mice are round. If the mouse is fat, it is really hard to tell whether she is pregnant or not.

Under the following circumstances, the mother mouse may be pregnant:

1. Female rats strongly resisted male rats.

The female rat desperately resisted the male rat, refused to let the male rat approach, and even screamed and fled or attacked the male rat when the male rat approached. Attention should be paid at this time, the female mouse may be pregnant, and the male mouse should be isolated immediately! !

2. The mother mouse has a bulge on her abdomen.

Touch the mother mouse's abdomen. If she feels small bumps and runs around, it means that the mother mouse has a baby. But this will not be detected until the middle and late pregnancy. Remember that you can only "touch". If the force is too strong, it may cause the mother mouse to abort or hurt the mouse! ! ! !

The mother mouse is shaped like a pear.

Pay attention to the female mouse's body shape. The abdomen is particularly round, not chubby, but it looks very strong and round. Moreover, it should be noted that if the female mouse has become like a pear (the lower abdomen is particularly round), the female mouse is likely to give birth soon, so be especially careful and be sure to isolate the male mouse! !

-You need to know before and after production.

Feeding children is very hard work. What the owner can do is to provide a good and suitable environment for the mother mouse to give birth with peace of mind.

1. Male rats must be isolated.

Before delivery: Male rats will cause mental stress in female rats, which may lead to miscarriage in female rats.

After giving birth: Male rats will make female rats feel pressure, which may make female rats give up breeding or kill their own children. The most important thing is that the mother mouse can get pregnant again immediately after giving birth, but continuous pregnancy and childbirth will do great harm to the mother mouse, shorten the life span of the mother mouse and make the born mouse die easily. Don't be careless !

2. Nutritional supplements.

Prenatal and postpartum nutritional supplements are very important. Animal proteins such as breadworm, boiled protein and animal cheese can be properly ingested, so that the mother rats have enough physical strength to raise their babies before and after production.

3. Quiet environment.

The mother mouse must keep the environment quiet after giving birth to the baby. Don't peek at the mouse or disturb the mother mouse, otherwise it may cause the mother mouse to abandon or kill the child. When it is found that the mother mouse has given birth to the young mouse, please move the cage to a quiet and dark place first, and try not to put it in places where people come and go or near other mouse cages. If the weather is not hot, you can cover the cage with a piece of cloth, so that the mother mouse can have a more secure baby! ! After the mother mouse gives birth, don't rush to change the sawdust, just wait patiently for the mouse to open its eyes. At this time, what the owner can do is to reassure the mother mouse and put clean and sufficient feed and water quietly every day without disturbing the mother mouse. Everything can be handled with disposable chopsticks at this time! Avoid direct contact with mice or things around them.

4. The mouse was left halfway.

Some careless mothers will forget to bring the little mouse home when they move. The little mouse may get lost and find her mother, because she is afraid that the little mouse will catch a cold if she leaves her mother for too long, so she must find a way to send it back to her mother. Don't rush to "catch" the mouse back to mom, lest the mouse smell you and mom deny him. First, observe whether the mother mouse has really forgotten this mouse. If the mother mouse hasn't brought the mouse back after a while, remember to bring the mouse back to her mother with a spoon, and remember not to catch the baby mouse directly with your hands! !

How to cultivate feelings with rats and mice

Steps to cultivate feelings:

Rest.

When the mouse comes home on the first day, don't be too eager to play with him, because the mouse will be nervous when he first arrives in a new environment, so let the mouse take a day off first.

-habit.

From the next day, feed the mice regularly every day, so that the mice can get used to your hands and taste quickly. The way to feed is to put the feed in the palm of your hand, put your hand into the cage quietly and stop, let the mouse approach slowly, and don't disturb him when the mouse is eating, otherwise he will be wary of your hand. At first, the mouse may not come near at all, or run away immediately after eating, so don't worry, take your time! !

-Close.

After a week, the mouse has adapted to the environment, so it can be replaced with a big cage. At this time, I think the mouse should be used to taking things from your hand (a bolder mouse may dare to climb up), or try to make the mouse eat in his hand (that is, hold the mouse with your palm and let it eat in it, but be careful not to let the mouse fall). You can call it softly while eating. !

-Get to know each other.

Get the mouse used to the way you call him. For example, before the cloud wants to carry the mouse out, it will knock on the cage door, call the mouse's name, let the mouse go to the cage door, smell me, and then carry him out. The owner should also know the ways that mice like and hate. For example, there is a mouse in Jiayun. If you want to hug him without calling him to the door first, he will definitely bite first, but it will be sweeter to be with the other party after the mouse and the owner can understand and trust each other (as if talking about the relationship between men and women).

-more interaction to build feelings.

Once the mouse recognizes you, it will be dead set.

I often see people asking again in major forums, why did the mouse and mouse bite me? In fact, it is normal for a mouse to bite, because you are a huge unknown object to him, so he must take precautions for his own safety, and the only weapon of a mouse is small and pointed teeth.

So don't be sad and angry because of being bitten by a mouse, and don't give it away or abandon it. It takes time for people to understand each other, not to mention that mice and mice like to eat what they have. The best food for mice, such as melon seeds, peanuts and bread worms, is usually fed to mice, which will make them swim in the street (be careful not to let them fall off)

Ways to cultivate feelings for a long time:

1, name. Don't underestimate this matter. The name means that the mouse is in your heart, and you can keep talking with it.

2, don't be afraid of others' jokes, love is in your heart, only the mouse knows it, talk to the mouse and the mouse, don't whistle or shout instead of language.

"Mao Mao, come and let me have a look."

Mao Mao, what are you doing?

"Mao Mao, eat melon seeds."

"Mao Mao, don't bite, don't bite your finger."

"Mao Mao, don't pee."

"Mao Mao, come on, comb your hair, don't move, don't move."

Stick to it every day, and it will respond to its name. Think about it. When you are trained to come as soon as you hear your name, what does it feel like to put two small paws on your fingers and stare at you with two big black eyes?

3. touch it frequently. When you are not training, if you want to catch it, just hold it in your hand. If it is afraid of you, it won't dare to bite you. At this time you can talk to it and touch it. You can also buy a toothbrush to brush the baby's plush.

4, often give it some melon seeds to eat, one or two at a time, two or three times a day, no time to feed it once a few days, but you can't get tired of playing for a few days. Put it aside, don't ask, just want to play when you have time. I don't bite you!

5. Once you are injured, you must take care of it like BB, wash the wound and feed the breadworms until you are cured. If there is such an opportunity, everything will be solved. I hope there will never be such an opportunity.

6. Whether a pet is a pet is only known to you, but in the end only mice and mice know. All of the above are external efforts. It's still the sentence in my view of pets: there is a mouse in my heart, and the mouse has him in his heart. This is beyond words.

Cleaning the cage is changing sawdust. Actually, changing sawdust and changing water, feeding and bathing are best done together.

So, this is how I quickly allocate my two-day plan. On the day of light feeding, I will start feeding around 10 in the afternoon. At that time, they were a little hungry and ate everything in the basin. Pure feeding step: first, open the pocket of each grain and wait for the food. Take my family as an example: put the homemade whole grains (castor bean, millet, rice cake and melon seeds) into each hamster's rice bowl, and grab the amount of one Contac capsule with three fingers. Belgian cereals (synthetic cereals, one grain at a time, one piece at a time, unpalatable, actually hot and bitter, cereals, broken teeth, melon seeds, peanuts, popcorn, raisins, black chunks of unknown substances) grab the amount of three Contac capsules with three fingers.

LM cereal (small synthetic cereal, castor bean, millet, cereal, rice cake, corn kernels, peanuts and melon seeds) refers to the amount of three Contac capsules grabbed. KAYYTE, referred to as KT (fruity and sweet), grab four. I have observed that this amount can always keep the rice bowl clean and there will be no waste, but we can adjust the amount of food according to the amount of food for each SS, and then give more after eating. Don't disturb the good habit of feeding the biological clock, or they will bite the cage angrily and protest against you!

The skill of cleaning cages is to be quick, and don't let SS wait around, get lost and wrestle. It takes time to practice how to change things faster, but I have some good suggestions that I might as well show you: First, take SS out safely. Security here refers not only to the safety of your own fingers, but also to the safety of the SS. Don't put it in a strange place. You can make a special carton similar to Christine's cake house, put it in the shower room and cover it. Second, use the pure feeding step to quickly fill the food bowl of the cage you want to change and put it aside. When the sawdust is changed and the cage is installed, put it in quickly. Third, quickly dismantle the cage. Then put the house, tiles or rice bowls back on the second floor. Press down the carpet at the stairs. Prepare a larger plastic bag, pour most of the sawdust connected to the bottom of the cage together, pat it hard, put a napkin box next to it, and wipe it when the bottom of the cage is not clean. Sprinkle sawdust, sprinkle more where you have peed, less where you are clean, and don't sprinkle it in summer.

When installing, remember the left and right position of the cage bottom, and don't reverse the direction of the urinating place and the clean place. Special note: the cage is small, where the rice basin is placed, SS usually does not pee, and sawdust is not needed in this corner.

Special note: comrades with small cages and unreasonable use of space should pay attention. When you go to a department store or computer city, bring more leaflets! Fold the flyer into a rectangle and make more rectangles like this.

The harder, the better. Then, take four disposable chopsticks and put them between two pieces of paper, one folded with n pieces. Finally, wrap the outer layer with the hardest advertising paper. Make the thickness of this rectangle just a little larger than the thickness of the two rows of wires, so that it can be stuck. Insert the wire between the first column and the second column near the site and stick it firmly. Adjust the cardboard by hand, and don't let the cardboard below arch. An independent second floor can do DIY. You can put an ashtray on it as a rice bowl. You don't need any stairs, because the cardboard is low and close to the cage basin. On the one hand, it can prevent sawdust from splashing, on the other hand, SS can't climb up to eat, and it won't be so uncomfortable to jump down. The bearing capacity is also very strong, because it is supported by disposable chopsticks, so you don't have to worry about collapse when strengthening. But the rice bowl must be heavy, or it will be knocked over. Key points of domestic steel wire cage: When the rice bowl stuck on the cage body is disassembled and installed, it should be supported by hands, not by force, otherwise the steel wire will break if it is deformed too many times. Don't hurry to separate the cage after unfastening the buckle. Take out the things on the second floor first, shake the carpet on the second floor, and if it is wet, cut a clean advertising paper again and put it away. Then put the house, tiles or rice bowls back on the second floor. Press down the carpet at the stairs. When taking out the upper cage, be careful not to drop the stairs when placing it. Fourth, put SS back safely in the changed cage and let them starve.

Fifth, change the water. Why is changing water last?

If SS has nothing to eat and is disturbed when changing water, it will be unhappy. So let them eat something first, and whatever you are doing, be nice to them. Prepare a clean towel, put it on the door handle of the bathroom, take off the water bottle and take it out for cleaning. When unscrewing the water bottle, don't pull the bottle mouth, or it will break easily. Hold the bottom of the bottle mouth, that is, the part closest to the bottle body, and gently turn it away. When cleaning, clean the balls in the bottle mouth and the annular tissue in the bottle mouth.

Turn your fingers like a bottle, pour clean tap water, connect pure water, cover the bottle, and dry the bottle with a towel, especially the stainless steel part. In order to prevent water droplets from contacting with the place bitten by the wire cage and rusting. After all the bubbles in the water bottle are driven out, it can be put in a cage to avoid dripping. When inserting the water bottle nozzle into the gap between the wires, the water bottle nozzle should be up first, fully inserted and then down. The reason for this sequence is that it will not drip and corrode the steel wire cage.

Minibaby's water bottle is of good quality, but there is a problem. If the water is full, it will really leak. Even SS drinks water! Therefore, it is suggested to fill in 4/5, leaving a little air for SS to head the ball. Otherwise, SS will die of thirst! This happened in my house. You'd better buckle the wire outside and don't touch the water bottle. Alice's vacuum water bottle must be full, or it will leak. Rubber rings are easy to chew, but they don't leak when chewing.

Try to put the water bottle outside the cage, so as to change the water easily and avoid being bitten by SS. Buying a new one is likely to leak, and it will take several days to not leak. Plastic buckles are difficult to handle. You can remove the water bottle by moving the buckle instead of pulling it open.

Pay attention to the long bottle mouth and put it above the wire rung to prevent SS from twisting its head and drinking water.

Wild pint water bottles don't need to be filled, but at least 1/3 is needed, otherwise it will leak easily. Bubbles must be released until dripping stops. Fill the household water bottle as full as possible, let out the air and then put it in. If it leaks, don't use it ... lest SS get wet and catch a cold.

When all this is done, it is estimated that the SS I changed first has fallen asleep.

Necessities for keeping hamsters

Cage: large space (at least as big as a small sorting box). It is best not to buy domestic products. Although it is cheap, it is not safe.

A mouse's foot can easily get stuck and break, or get free from its cage. Moreover, it is not safe to draw a mouse (the mouse will chew the cage).

I know this very well. Pippi once had a leg skin cut off because I opened the door.

The day before yesterday, my sister gnawed at the cage, grabbed her legs and groaned softly for a long time.

I still couldn't pull my leg out, and finally I pulled it out with all my strength. Fortunately, it's not broken, just a big bruise. If you buy imported cages, the second-hand ones are generally between 50- 100. Brand new 100-300. Or some mouse friends DIY boxes are also good, and the whole set can be done within 100, except for beauty, of course.

prison

Hamster cages should be at least 19X 19 square inches and 6 inches high. A good cage should have a solid base, and don't use a net wire as a base, because it will hurt the hamster's paws. There are usually three kinds of cage materials: iron wire, glass and plastic.

1. The advantage of steel wire is that hamsters can use it to climb. The distance between two wires should be 3/4 to 1/2 inches. Suitable steel wire cages should be detachable to facilitate cleaning.

2. The glass cage (goldfish bowl) is easy to clean, but it is poorly ventilated, so it can't provide exercise opportunities for hamsters.

3. Plastic cages can hold multiple pipes and toy knickknacks, which is the most cost-effective choice, but it is the most inconvenient to clean and the ventilation is not suitable.

Mouse toilet: mice will go to the toilet at designated places (mice are quiet little animals, but not everyone is very good)

Using this habit, it will be much more convenient to clean up. Or they'll pee all over the place,

Every day or two, the cage is full of bad smell.

You can buy some plastic products to hold mouse sand, or you can buy a mouse toilet specially made for mice.

The cost in this respect ranges from a few dollars to dozens of dollars!

Kettle and vegetable basin: it can be done for more than ten yuan. Cages are usually bought with kettles and pots.

Roller: Basically, it will be put into the cage.

If you are a mouse friend of DIY, buy one yourself or make one yourself. Remember to buy seamless,

Never buy one with a seam in the middle. The mouse runs very fast.

Once the calf is stuck inside, it is easy to break.

Wheels are generally divided into non-mute and mute, and the price of this thing ranges from 5 yuan to tens of yuan.

Log cabin: The mouse is Nocturnal Animals, so it likes to sleep during the day.

Therefore, it is necessary to prepare a hiding place for them to sleep.

From small paper boxes to exquisite mouse houses specially built for mice,

Some imported cages have two layers of grids, which can be used as sleeping and places. Prices range from a few yuan to tens of yuan.

Feed: A pack of imported feed is about 30-60 yuan, which can be eaten for a long time.

Others flaunt the efficacy of removing urine odor. Pigeons or whole grains mixed by feed shops are not recommended, and the nutrition does not meet the requirements of rats and mice. Don't think that they can eat and absorb everything like house mice. Hygiene is not very good, there will be Mi Chong or other moths.

(easy to have mold or xanthotoxin), but if you really can't afford expensive imported feed,

This is also a last resort! And strongly avoid giving mice snacks that people eat.

Mat: Hamsters like to dig, so the mat should be thick. Good fillers should include recycled paper balls and sawdust (cedar wood is not allowed). Gaskets should be replaced weekly. Most hamsters use a corner of the cage as their own toilet, which needs to be cleaned more frequently.

Poplar is better, but it is also more expensive. One pack will be close to 50 yuan.

There are many people who use pine, ranging from 20 to 40 yuan. Try to choose less dust.

There are other kinds, such as paper, corn root, sawdust sand and so on.

Sand bath: A pack of WILD-308 varies from 65 yuan to 90 yuan. It can be used for about half a year and can be recycled.

Replace it when there is an odor. If you get wet just after putting on a new one, the wet place can be taken out separately.

Some people will use cat litter instead of bath sand. I don't agree with this practice. Cat litter is not bad for mouse toilet sand.

But for mice, the particles are too big to remove bacteria.

Remember not to bathe mice with water. Rats are naturally afraid of water. You may die after washing).

Drinking water: boiled water must be used, and pure water is best if possible (mother rats should be properly fed with fresh milk during lactation, not overnight, which is easy to deteriorate).

Molar supplies: there are special molar wood and mineral salts, and molar snacks will be more popular. Prices range from 10 to 60 yuan. Never use disposable scissors, popsicles and the like! (Friends who grew up in lockers must prepare these. If it is a cage, the mouse will bite the cage and grind its teeth.

Prevention of rodents

In case the mouse gets sick, it will be a sad and troublesome thing!

Because the current pet medicine is still aimed at cats, dogs, horses, etc.

As for mice, these companions who have been with human beings for thousands of years have only become popular in recent years.

We still have a lot to study about mice. At present, we only know the treatment of some major diseases.

Rats and mice are small in size and have fast metabolism, so it is difficult to find symptoms at the initial stage of illness.

Usually the condition is not serious when it is found, which also brings trouble to the treatment and may not be cured. What's more, because of the above reasons, there are very few veterinarians who can treat mice, and it is even more difficult to find a special vet.

Therefore, the best way is to do preventive health care from daily life to avoid mice hanging sick.

Pay attention to environmental hygiene, there is a lazy and dirty nest owner, and mice are prone to get sick! Dirty environment is easy to breed bacteria, or attract flies, cockroaches and mites to patronize, and bring some germs as "companions" by the way, rats and mice will suffer. The owner of the nest had better clean the water feeder, feed basin and poop every day, change wet sawdust frequently, clean the cage every week and scald it with hot water for disinfection. Wash your hands before and after playing with mice.

Balanced and diversified nutrition, feed rats and mice with balanced and diversified food, and don't be lazy to pour some ready-made feed, because only when you are full and eat well will you be resistant! In addition, drinking water is also a place that the owner easily ignores, and drinking water should be changed every day.

If it is polluted, change it. In areas where tap water is not drinkable, please give mice drinking water for human consumption. I don't drink much anyway.

The temperature and humidity are stable, and most rats come from dry areas. Please pay attention to keeping the cage in a dry and quiet place to avoid getting wet (so change sawdust frequently). Rats are very sensitive to temperature. Rats in the wild live in underground holes and have natural temperature regulation function. They should keep a stable temperature. In the weather with large temperature difference and winter, they should pay attention to keep warm to prevent mice from hibernating.

Generally speaking, mice don't hibernate well, but sleep longer than usual.

Avoid stress and tension. Rats and mice are naturally sensitive (for example, Roborowski voles are particularly timid). When growing up in an artificial environment, they easily feel stressed and nervous. It seems that like humans, stress and tension often lead to gastrointestinal discomfort, diarrhea and even gastric ulcer. Don't play too hard with mice, such as chasing, jumping, throwing in unfamiliar environment, etc. Maybe we find it interesting, but mice and mice feel pain and fear. In order to solve the stress problem of rats,

The first is to provide enough exercise space, give the mouse a big cage, put on running rollers and come out to play every day. Especially neurotic old people and old women, don't touch them easily, otherwise it will easily scare them, cause self-harm, or hurt their master's fingers and be bitten. Of course, it is not difficult to make out with old people and old women. Basically, the second generation will be better, because it will be easier to play with people when they grow up.