Qinghai-Tibet Line: Catch a winter

The world is in a hurry.

They are all eager to tell their stories.

Who will listen to you?

Qinghai-Tibet Line: Catch a winter.

The tunnel is long and the dream is chaotic.

Give me a hug and I will wander around the world.

After New Year’s Eve, hit the road. Before the Spring Festival holiday, I boldly wrote a detailed explanation for taking annual leave, and my boss actually approved it. So my idea changed from "Going to Tibet in February?" to "Going to Tibet in February."

On the first day of the Lunar New Year, I went from Putian to Wuxi, and Wuxi T164 went to Lhasa. The total journey is 56 hours, with hard seats.

One of my favorite states is sitting in the train and looking out the window. No one disturbs me, so I start writing poetry.

But when I see interesting people, I will be shy and shameless to strike up a conversation and say many, many words.

The ups and downs and the stillness of my heart are both the real me.

Before departure, I repeatedly calculated how much time it would take to get back and forth on the train, how much time I could stay in Tibet... I couldn’t always calculate clearly. In the end, I got tired of it, so forget it and forget about it. The train runs from south to north, then from east to west, running on the tracks all day and all night. Sometimes I ask myself: Why do I want to go to such a far place? However, this question is like shouting into an empty valley in my heart, but there is no response. So I answered myself: Because I am young and have only a restless heart.

The train kept going, and passengers got on and off, one after another. I stayed on the train and wanted to sit until the last stop. The longitude and latitude are changing, the platform is changing, and the faces we meet are also changing little by little. Maybe the scenery was gradually changing along the way, the temperature was changing, and the altitude was changing, but I didn't pay much attention. At the last few stops, most of the people left on the bus were fellow travelers heading to Lhasa.

Listening to the songs played on the radio on the train is very interesting, even if it is vulgar, it is very interesting, and I often can't help laughing.

One of the happiest things on the Qinghai-Tibet Railway is listening to "I haven't been a big brother for many years", which was repeated in the carriage. The eldest brother from Gansu next to me talked to me: "Hey, this song is very old. When we were young, we were still young men and we often sang this song! In KTV, what are you singing? I haven't been a big brother for many years. ! 'Then the brothers joked to each other, "Oh, why do you want to be a big brother?"

Chatting, listening to songs, and thinking. These are the moments of unprepared laughter and happiest moments.

If you have been quietly living in a life for a long time, you will feel that the deeply buried screaming self is slowly awakening.

Friends: We are in the vast sea of ??people just to meet each other.

I am the kind of person who must break out, otherwise his life will fail.

When you hit the road, you are bound to make friends.

After sitting in a train carriage for a long time, even those you haven’t spoken to before will become like old friends, and they won’t seem like strangers when you talk to them. When you get tired of sitting, you can walk back and forth in the car, and then run to various locations to strike up conversations with interesting people.

I carry a map of China and a Tibetan travel book with me. When the train reached the last few stations, I could identify those who were going to Lhasa. Then I took a piece of paper and a pen and went to greet these people with my neighbor Jia Lin.

So I shamelessly told them: Leave your contact information! Please also write your name, phone number, and QQ! Then I collected a full piece of paper... and wrote it on the cover of Mafengwo Guide with the two big characters "Tibet" printed on it.

People who pass by each other on the same road will eventually get to know each other.

The Hong Kong friend I met at the foot of Yumbulakang... is a very calm person. When I am with him, I become soft-spoken and feel at ease.

Shannan’s Ciyang sister... we successfully struck up a conversation outside Yumbulakang Hall, and we kept meeting each other at the foot of the mountain, so she took the trouble to take me and my friends from Hong Kong to eat curry rice and take a bus to Samye Temple.

Brother Xiaomin... When I was in Lhasa and wanted to take a ride to Shannan, I took the wrong road and couldn't find the national highway. I ran around asking for directions alone, and walked pitifully on the Lhasa Bridge... ...After walking a few meters, brother Xiaomin stopped beside me on his motorcycle: "Where are you going? Let me give you a ride!" As we chatted, he even took me for a ride around Lhasa.

When I was in Shannan, he asked me when I would return to Lhasa, "I'll take you to play with me!" So I decided to go back to Lhasa early, and took a ride on the national highway at 7 o'clock in the evening, and stopped in the wind and sand. To a car traveling to Lhasa for Qinghai pilgrimage family. At that time, I was like a stubborn cow, standing alone and firmly beside the empty highway.

If I want to do something, I will become a stubborn cow.

Sometimes it’s hard to explain why I trust others so easily.

I am sensitive and good at reading people's hearts. When I meet you for the first time, I will make a basic judgment on how likely the danger is.

I have always thought so, but in fact I am not 100% sure, and I take risks every time. What I believe is: I will meet people who have a similar heart to me.

When the night was dark, I was walking in front of the Jokhang Temple and met Yang Hai. He was playing alone on the roadside. Because he was carrying a big backpack, I took another look at him, and then turned around and found that he was slowly following me... That's it, let's chat!

This is the strangest and purest travel friend I have ever met. He walked from Beijing for a year. He didn’t stay in a hotel, brought enough dry food, and used a solar desk lamp. He didn’t have a camera or a mobile phone. He was born in 1995...

“Without a mobile phone, then How do you contact your mother?"

"Well, no contact."

"What?"

"Because my mother and I want me to. I can truly learn to be independent. Although my mother cried when I left, she was also very worried, but she said she would be very proud of me when I come back. My mother is also quite famous in Beijing. Traveling friends, I often organize outdoor activities. I grew up in this circle. My mother taught me how to read and write since I was a child. My mother and I were both weird people in the eyes of our neighbors. ”

I looked at his cracked lips and his somewhat sluggish speech, and I half-mockingly said, “Are you stupid for walking all the way, haha.” Asked about his solar desk lamp, he took off his backpack and showed it to me. He put the bag on his back again, and I wanted to help him, but he said no, I can do it myself. I hugged my arms when the wind blew, and he said, "Sister...sister, are you feeling cold..." Then he stepped forward and stretched out his hand to pull up the zipper of my jacket. Before leaving, he solemnly blessed me and my family and said, "At least your parents care about you. This is very important..."

With such a person, do you think that Come up with ways to stay in touch. The idea of ??taking pictures came up, but I still didn’t want to take out my camera and disturb his life. So just leave the name.

To venture into the world alone is to suddenly meet someone and then be immersed in one story after another.

Sera Monastery: "Hey, Sister Ganggyen Dolma?"

How many Buddha statues have I walked past, how many times have I bowed my head, and how many 10-cent pieces have I stuffed in my head? Didn't pay much attention to it.

I followed the crowd to worship in the temple and accidentally walked in front of Xiao Phuntsok. After a while, he suddenly asked me: "Why don't you kowtow?" So I said: "Ah? Oh oh..." and then bowed his head. He leaned his head against the wall and worshiped the Buddha statues one by one.

I climbed the floor with Phuntsok and his mother and passed through the grid under the Buddha statue. I followed them around the temple. We went to a teahouse to eat meat buns and drink sweet tea. I sat among them and tried not to look like a tourist.

Before leaving, Xiao Phuntsok said to me several times: "Can you develop the photos you took and give them to me? Then take them to Sera Monastery, call me, and I will come out to the intersection to get them." I said I wanted to take them, but they haven’t come yet.” I asked, “How many do you want?” “Yeah... five!” “Okay.

”

The sun is about to set but has not yet set. I want to climb the mountain behind Sera Monastery again and climb to the top. I will go to Shannan tomorrow. When can I return to Lhasa and come to Sera Monastery again? Is there a photo studio nearby? I'll develop the photos and give them to Phuntsok immediately.

Little Phuntsok calls me Gangchen Dolma.

"Hey, Phuntsok, I'm Gangchen." Dolma, my photos have been developed. Can you come to the intersection to pick them up? "

"Huh? Is it washed? So fast! Let's meet at the intersection then! "

When I was still ten steps away, I saw little Phuntsok and his mother appear. I handed them the photo, and they gave me a bag of food. Phuntsok said: "This is I made it myself. If it doesn’t taste good, don’t throw it away! ”

In fact, many times I hope that others will believe that I am sincere and not malicious. I wander the streets without a clue. I am particularly confused and wandering. I will follow anyone I can meet.

"Will you go to our house? "Phuntsok's mother told me.

"Huh? Really? May I? Hurrah! ”

Go to a Tibetan home as a guest? Go to a Tibetan home as a guest!

I was sitting at Phuntsog’s house, and suddenly Brother Dawa opened the door curtain and came in, and then we sat on the sofa We chatted all afternoon. I drank one cup after another of butter tea, and Phuntsok’s mother kept helping me drink it. It was getting dark, and Phuntsok’s mother was worried that it would be unsafe for me to go home alone. Night view, so Brother Dawa drove me to Potala Palace Square.

I was so happy this night. I felt that even if I walked alone for a short time, I would feel empty. , if there is someone who can tell you the true story of the land under your feet, this is what you have been looking for, and it is worth the whole journey.

I love mine. Mom, just like I love freedom.

But what’s the use?

I told my mother: “Mom, I may go to Germany to study in a year and a half. . ”

It was the afternoon of New Year’s Eve. The consequences of my bringing up this idea were much more serious than I had always imagined. The argument was as fruitless as usual. My mother put down everything because she had no strength to do it anymore. She was so sad and lost that she could only lie on the bed and cry.

I didn’t cry or make a fuss. After ten minutes, I went over to call my mother. She gradually got better, hugged me and said, “Don’t go anywhere. So far away...don't do it for any dreams..."

What she said almost heartbreakingly has been swirling in my mind:

I knew I would not be happy! This is my fate, I accept it.

I just want a normal life, no matter what...

It’s all the Germans who have ruined you!

Why can't you be like others, like Lin Shan and Shuangshuang?

You have been to so many places and you haven't had enough fun.

People say. , Girls don’t need to have a high degree of education...

How can you find a good partner when your age is too high... Numerous examples can prove it.

If you are. If I’m not married until I’m twenty-seven or eighty, I’ll die!

This family exists just for you. If you don’t care about this family, then there’s no point in staying here any longer.

No matter what, I don’t believe it, you are looking for someone.

...

If the thing you hate most is... Where is the identity of the person you love most?

Mom, didn’t you see me crying in pain all night?

There is a deep gap between us. The exchanges felt like inflicting culture shock on each other.

How can a person who has a "housewife dream" and a person who has a "world traveler dream" plan for the future together?

How can it be possible for a person to be together who says, "We don't lack anything now, and everything we do is to show others" and someone who says, "I need inner peace, and all external voices are not important to me right now." Exchange life?

There is a gap between me and my contemporaries. Why do I try so hard to communicate with my family again and again, and then prove that everything is in vain?

I crossed cultures and was torn between two worlds, falling into a situation of being torn apart by five horses.

You cannot understand my pain. It's like I can't understand your pain.

Is it so difficult? It's not that difficult. Life is playing tricks on me, giving me two extreme paths. I just want to keep my inner peace and complete my self-growth in this fleeting world. What is this world so anxious about?

So I took a car to Lhasa alone on the first day of the Lunar New Year.

There are many people in the world who talk, but few people who sincerely listen.

Some people in this world are destined to be unable to understand each other. Then there is no need to understand each other.

During the entire trip to Tibet, there were dark clouds floating in my heart. I kept thinking about my future path, the life I wanted in the future, my dreams and my family.

After returning from Tibet, I talked with Teacher R for four hours about my family and my dreams.

He said to me: "Don't close yourself, it's not the time yet." I almost cried when I heard this sentence. This is exactly what I thought. My growth is not complete yet. I am not complete as an individual yet.

Dream: You must keep the fire within.

"I often walk a long way alone. When the wind blows, I feel like a fallen leaf."

There is a beam of light in the distance, and under the night, the train is moving a little bit Coming.

There are some words in Blue’s article that I like very much:

“In terms of values, I can’t go back to China’s mainstream lifestyle. I firmly believe that unreliable people will not use it. There is a reliable way to survive. I just listen to my inner voice and live my life. If I can’t become a legend, I would rather be a lunatic.

I won’t give up until I hit the wall. The wall has been broken and keep going. On the road of dreams, you will encounter gods and demons. Even if you are destroyed by them in battle, the dignity and glory of being a knight is to die in battle rather than giving up on your dream.

We call the ancient knights "travelers" in modern society, because their spiritual essence and cultural inheritance are consistent.

I know, my love, my love. The paths I chose were all crazy, unreliable and ridiculous, but I never thought about choosing the second path. There will always be some unreliable lunatics in this world who use tragic ways to prove the meaning of existence and life.

I am a desperado, a complete gambler. I use all my youth, worldly happiness, talent, time... I use everything I have. Putting all my wealth as a bet on the future is called a gamble. If I win, I will win big. If I lose, I will have nothing and it will become a complete joke. I have no choice. , I can only keep betting."

Can you still hear yourself as a young man from many years ago?

When the sun sets, remember me.

Next article: Xinjiang: A love letter to Yanni