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Jiangsu and Zhejiang tourism arrangements
From the hotel, the famous Liyuan is not far away. Liyuan was built by Lihu Lake, and it is said that Fan Li, a doctor of the State of Yue in the Spring and Autumn Period, took Xi Shi boating here and got its name.
After playing many parks, such as the Summer Palace and Yuanmingyuan, I'm not very interested in artificial parks, and I'm probably in a routine state of mind when I visit Liyuan. But entering Liyuan still makes people feel a unique style.
The plants in the garden change tacitly as they enter. First, there is the lush oleander, which is very strange. Both branches and leaves grow according to the number 3. When I was a child, I planted oleander at home, but I have never seen such a lush and green one (especially in winter). With the twists and turns, bamboo increased, appeared in clusters, and then turned into, there were many kinds of plants that could not be named.
The rockery in Liyuan has absorbed the unique characteristics of Wuxi Taihu Stone: thin, wrinkled, carved and transparent. The rockery is as thin and clanking as a bone, with the texture of an old lady's face, the structure as a finely carved screen, and the window that looks at it from the other side.
unlike gardens in the north, which are full of wealth and ostentation, gardens in the south are exquisite everywhere, not only in exquisite carving, but also in the originality of ideas. Every leaky window of Qianqianlang adopts a different pattern. Exquisite calligraphy carvings are embedded in the wall of the corridor, and the paths in the garden extend in under the greenwood tree. The arched small bridge suddenly leaps from the lake. On the larger lake, there will be sculptures or rockeries, such as the strong beat in music, which will never be monotonous but never extravagant. The garden has a strong sense of space, and the vegetation is scattered everywhere. For example, the evergreen beside Spring and Autumn Pavilion is built into a hidden level, and endless contents are constructed in a narrow space. The more you look at it, the more you feel the connotation. The more you look at it, the more you feel that there are still interesting things to see.
We gave up the speedboat and chose a cruise ship to visit Lihu Lake. There were guzheng players in the cruise ship, accompanied by ancient songs, and all the tourists heard it was silent. Swim across the Baojie Bridge, and associate it with "the sword falls in two rainbows". The Baojie Double Bridge is like two rainbows across the lake, with extraordinary boldness of vision. Facing the sun, the wind blows on the lake, the sun shines little by little, the ancient music flows clandestinely, and the water surface shines like a note. I am not as spiritual as an artist, and often face vivid scenes, leaving only a moment of emotion at most, while swords, changhong, the sun, the water, jumping lights and guzheng music make people feel in a spiritual world.
After disembarking, I woke up spiritually and saw Xi Shi's tofu. Xiao Lu wanted to eat it. Tofu is as sweet as other Jiangnan snacks. I also bought a pair of "Wuxi Daafu" as souvenirs.
When I got out of Liyuan, I drove to Yuantouzhu and Tingxie Garden. I felt nothing special, but I was interested in Baiou (a seagull? But it's fresh water here. It flies lightly and powerfully, with a beautiful posture, and sometimes dives to the surface to fish and eat. Other impressions are Tianjie, which is taken from Su Shi's idealistic "sea market", "Fair buying and selling, no deceit in a child's old age", "A gentleman loves money and takes it wisely", and then there are 18 "evil spirits" in the cruise terminal.
After coming out of Yuantouzhu, Xiao Lu was still not satisfied with the clay dolls in Wuxi. He went to the clay figurine factory in Wuxi, where he was brutally bleeding, bought four vivid clay dolls and spent money in 32 yuan.
Once again, it is difficult to distinguish the road in Wuxi. According to the map, you should be careful when you go from the clay figurine factory to the Shanghai-Nanjing Expressway. Unexpectedly, you go to the national road by mistake. Finally, at 16: 15, I got on the Shanghai-Nanjing Expressway and headed for Suzhou.
Suzhou, unlike Wuxi, is easy to recognize and the road signs are much clearer. After we entered Suzhou, we stayed at Tengwangge Hotel and decided to visit Hanshan Temple at night. The street lamps are all in the shape of ancient lanterns, full of antique flavor. This is called "Tang Lantern". Looking at the map, it is difficult to walk when you meet a road on the road. Hanshan Temple is closed. Let's go around the temple and observe the octagonal building in the temple from different angles. There is an arch bridge in front of the temple, and behind the bridge is the Fengqiao Bridge Scenic Area, a classical park, which is like returning to ancient times under the reflection of Tang lanterns. Looking back, it was the bell on the octagonal building that alarmed Zhang Ji, a poet who was sleeping in sorrow. After the change of dynasties, the octagonal building always stood silently by the long river of history and watched the water flow, just like the thinking of time and space philosophy brought by "when the moon rises on the riverside and when the moon shines on people". Today, Hanshan Temple and Bajiaolou seem to be witnesses across time and space and become an eternity.
I came back from Hanshan Temple and made a detour. As a result, I still met with road construction, which made me laugh and cry. Another important thing we have to do is to eat. Suzhou's specialty snack is pasta, so I looked for pasta and found the famous Zhu Hongxing noodle restaurant, but it was closed. I went to Guanqian Street to trace the Songhe Tower. The legendary Songhe Tower should be on the second floor. As a result, I was told that I had already left work. I thought why didn't these old brands win more opportunities for themselves? A note left for an absent ecluse, however, found Suzhou snacks on the first floor of Songhelou. The fragrant glutinous rice chicken tastes good, just like the rice dumplings in Jiaxing, but it is wrapped in lotus leaves, so it has the fragrance of lotus leaves. There are several kinds of special snacks in Suzhou and Wuxi, and one kind of golden rice cake is chosen, which feels ordinary, like the hair cake in the north. There is also a shop called "Good People Snacks", which looks good, but it is full and has no chance to try.
It turns out that Guanqian Street is the central commercial street in Suzhou, and it is very busy at night. There are all kinds of snacks, silk products, clothes and so on. Xiao Lu took the opportunity to purchase a batch of scarves crazily (Xiao Lu: What "crazy purchase"? ! I bought three silk scarves as soon as I got there.
January 26th Mudu-Humble Administrator's Garden-Tongli
I was a little tired yesterday. I got up at 8 o'clock in the morning, so I hurried to tidy up and rush to Mudu. The road is built again, and it takes a lot of trouble to go around. Arrive in Mudu after 9 o'clock.
Mudu is a small town, and part of the ancient town seems to have been deliberately preserved, extending along the banks of the river. When I entered the ancient town, my first impression was the small river. If I hadn't seen the arch bridges flying over it, I almost used it as a drainage ditch. Residents are all discharged into the river, and they feel very uncomfortable. When we arrived in Mudu ancient town, the tour group had not arrived yet, and all we saw were local residents. Our clothes and cameras around our necks made us almost a unique scenery in the town. Of course, the residents of the town were already familiar with it.
The original appearance of the town is still well preserved (or restored), and the pavement is paved with quaint bluestone slabs. We entered from the entrance of Feng Guifen's former residence. The first thing you see is the oblique bridge dividing water, which is one of the ten scenic spots in Mudu. An ancient flat bridge divides the river into two branches.
After crossing the inclined bridge, you can't walk far into an alley. The alley is very narrow, and you can touch the walls on both sides with your hands flat. You can't imagine that the "Second Place" is in such an alley. The second place refers to Feng Guifen, who was a scholar during the Daoguang period. He took the lead in advocating "Western learning" and "foreign control" in China's modern ambassadors, developing his own military industry and other undertakings, and was a political commentator, thinker, social activist, literati and scholar. His thoughts had a great influence on the Westernization School in the late Qing Dynasty and were regarded as the forerunner by the reformists in the late Qing Dynasty. The facade of the mansion is also very narrow. When you enter the gate, you pass a small yard, which is the front hall. On the top of the front hall, there are three immortals named Fu Lushou, who live in the center of the tile roof.
After passing through the front hall, I found that there was "a hole in the sky", and there were houses and courtyards such as nave, deputy hall, bedroom and study. Among them, a pair of couplets "It takes a long time for an official to know the taste of a book, and then it is clear that it is not difficult to dare to do things", which is intriguing. Further, a wide area is the back garden, adhering to the characteristics of Jiangnan gardens, with rockeries, vegetation, cascading, winding paths and paying attention to space.
step out of the "second place" and take a look at the gate. It's such a small courtyard that I never thought I could open such a vast courtyard with rich contents. For example, in the north, the doors of dignitaries are bound to be scarlet, with extraordinary verve and high walls, and the lions are divided between the left and the right, which fully reflects the different styles of restraint and ostentation between the north and the south.
Ganlong has been to Mudu six times, including staying at Hongyin Mountain House twice, which was originally the private garden of Mudu scholar Xu Shiyuan. Hongyin Mountain House is a combination of Xiuye Garden and Xiaoyin Garden in Ming Dynasty. "The beautiful scenery of Xishan Mountain is far better than that of other gardens."
Yanjia Garden is divided into spring, summer, autumn and winter. It is interesting in piano, chess, calligraphy and painting. It is a residence in the middle and a garden on three sides. The courtyard is deep and winding, with pavilions, halls, rockeries, winding corridors, bridges and ponds. It is a representative work of Jiangnan gardens.
There is also the home of one of Suzhou's richest people, with a hall in front, a garden in the middle, winding bridges, rockeries and ponds, and a hall in the back.
In a word, the attractions of Mudu are the ancient style of the ancient town and the garden.
On my way back to Suzhou from Mudu to Humble Administrator's Garden, I mistakenly entered Zhongwangfu because there was a sign at its gate saying, "If you want to know Humble Administrator's Garden, please come to Zhongwangfu". Loyal Palace was built on the basis of the original Humble Administrator's Garden after Li Xiucheng, the loyal king of Taiping Heavenly Kingdom, captured Suzhou, and its style is basically the same as that of Humble Administrator's Garden (but it is far from comparable to Humble Administrator's Garden). The Humble Administrator's Garden is actually 1 meters to the east of Zhong Wangfu. We mistakenly put Zhong Wangfu in as a Humble Administrator's Garden. When we came out, we firmly believed that the famous Humble Administrator's Garden was by no means so simple. We continued to pursue it to the east, only to find the coveted Humble Administrator's Garden (in fact, when we saw half of Zhong Wangfu, Xiao Lu firmly believed that it must not be a Humble Administrator's Garden here, but Xiao Hao went to the back door to exit, and still looked out, not believing that the Humble Administrator's Garden was not hidden behind, which shows that Xiao Hao
Humble Administrator's Garden is divided into three parts: East, Middle and West, each with its own characteristics. The eastern Pinggang grassland, with open space, has the characteristics of northern gardens; Pavilions and pavilions in the west are beautifully carved; The central part is the main body and essence of the whole park. The layout is centered on a pool of water, and buildings with different shapes and scattered heights are built near the water. There are many tour groups and the tourists are bustling, which destroys the quiet and elegant atmosphere of the garden. Next time, it's better to go early in the morning or evening.
Time is running out, so I left Humble Administrator's Garden and headed for Tongli. Similarly, due to road construction, it takes a lot of trouble to go around. Well, a major feature of Suzhou-road construction-is unbearable.
It's past 4 pm when we arrived in Tongli. The pipeline of Tongli Hotel was damaged due to freezing, and there was no water. The standard room of Tongli Resort was quoted at 336, which was too expensive! I walked around the resort and found a Shenlong Hotel to stay. I wanted to go to 1 yuan and bargain for 8 yuan, which was cheap. Then we went hiking in Tongli. It was getting late, and all the scenic spots and gardens were closed. We walked on the small street of Tongli ancient town. There were not many group tours, but there were still many pedestrians. There were many cars with Beijing prefix, which could be seen everywhere in the small street and parking lot.
Compared with Mudu, Tongli feels more quaint. Tongli is known as the real water town in the south of the Yangtze River, and the river here is cleaner than Mudu. Just in time for the Lantern Festival, the night is coming, and the lanterns are all full of charm, so don't add some fun. By boat in the middle reaches of Tongli in the twilight, there are few cruise ships in the river, and the river is quiet. Facing the small bridges on the river, the quaint lanterns and the curling smoke, I have become indifferent to the concept of the city, forgotten the highways, high-rise buildings and overpasses in Suzhou and Beijing, and forgot the office and tender documents. I dare not think about it, for fear of dispelling this rare feeling of returning to simplicity. When I got off the boat, I was still unfinished, and I took them around the Third Bridge. The three bridges are not far apart and surrounded by a circle (the river is Y-shaped). They are Changqing Bridge, Geely Bridge and Taiping Bridge. Here, when young people get married and old people live a long life, they will walk around these three bridges, hoping for good luck and peace.
Another clear purpose of going to Tongli is to visit the Retreat Garden, which is now closed until tomorrow.
I'd also like to mention that when I looked up in the street in front of the Humble Administrator's Garden today, I actually saw Zhu Hongxing noodle restaurant. It was really "it didn't take much effort to get it", and I finally ate it, but it felt ordinary. In the evening, I ate steamed Taihu white silk fish in Tongli, which was delicious. I also ate a kind of green vegetable called Punha cuisine, which was not delicious. I drank Taihu water shield soup, which was average.
Tongli-Zhouzhuang-Shanghai
I still feel a little cold at night. When I wake up, it's time to get up again. Remembering that I haven't seen the retreat garden yet, I packed my bags and left at once.
Tickets: 5 joint tickets, we just want to see the Garden of Retreat, 45 single tickets. I had to buy a joint ticket.
The retreat garden is the private residence of Ren Lansheng, an official in the Qing Dynasty. Later, Ren Lansheng was dismissed from office by the Senate. After returning to his hometown, he built this garden. The name of the retreat garden means "making progress and making amends". The retreat garden consists of three parts: residence, courtyard and garden, which are distributed horizontally from west to east. The house is divided into two parts, the outer house on the west side enters the hall, the inner house on the east side is the place where family members live, and the door adopts a double-layer "security door", the outer layer is slate, and the inner layer is wood, which is fireproof and burglarproof. The inner house adopts the Zoumalou building with Huizhou style, with two buildings and two corridors on both sides. This may be related to Mr. Ren's employment in Anhui. Go east again, pass the spacious courtyard, and reach the essence of the whole garden-the garden, which is exquisite and meticulous, built by water, and the theme building is Tuisi Caotang. There are more than a dozen old people gathering in the garden to talk about the past and discuss the present leisurely.
In the Tuisi Garden, a paper-cut artist held an exhibition of his own works and bought several paper-cuts symbolizing Tuisi Garden and Tongli Bridge as a souvenir.
In the small river of Tongli ancient town, people wash clothes from time to time, and there is a garbage area separated from domestic water in the river. The isolation net is put on the water with bamboo poles, which is very simple.
There is also a Pearl Pagoda in Tongli. Don't misunderstand that this is a stupa. This is an imperial residence of Chen. There is a garden pavilion built according to the legend of "sending towers" in the courtyard. The famous tin drama "Pearl Tower" is based on this.
There's also a narrow and long alley that runs through the heart, but it's only 5 cm wide. We cross the heart and people from opposite sides have to give way to each other, so we can't pass at the same time.
In Chongben Hall in Tongli, 3, metamorphic rock prints collected by a couple of railway engineers are exhibited, so as to exert their imagination, weave beautiful legends and poems on the natural lines of the stone tablets, explore the state of HarmonyOS in the universe, and show the charm of nature.
Geng Le Tang, one is to look at tree carvings, which is the masterpiece of China art celebrities included in the largest root carving by Shanghai Guinness; The second is to look at the garden. There are not many people, but Xiao Lu feels more beautiful and chic than the retreat garden.
I came out of my classmates and left for the famous Zhouzhuang that I have been longing for for for a long time. Zhouzhuang is almost there, but I don't know how to get there. As early as in Tongli, my colleagues in the hotel told me not to let the roadside "guides" lead the way, but there were no road signs and maps, so I had to lead the way by these "guides" who were eager to take business and collect the toll from 2 yuan. It turned out that these guides were illegal. They stopped tourists' vehicles, forced the way, and turned into Zhouzhuang through a small wall without taking the main entrance. Warn future generations not to be fooled. (If you don't enter through the main entrance, you can save the ticket to 6 yuan, but it's not worth it in 6 yuan. The main scenic spots inside, such as Zhangting and Shenting, need tickets to enter, so we have to look outside.)
It's disappointing to enter Zhouzhuang, but the river is dirty. Tourists are bustling all over the street, and there are queues to cross the bridge and cruise ships in the river. It seems that "people are afraid of being famous and pigs are afraid of being strong". Zhouzhuang has a good reputation, but it has brought environmental damage. The impression here is the least impressive. I only vaguely remember that in the crowd, I found the legendary Zhang Hall and Shen Hall, the mysterious building where Mr. Liu Yazi had drunk tea, and the Waipoqiao ...
A local sister-in-law Chen at No.4 Hougang Street gave us a guide (also a black guide, 1 yuan) and took us to shuttle through Zhouzhuang Street. When we were tired, we went to the sister-in-law's house to catch our breath. Sister-in-law's home is a typical two-story building, which has no decoration, basically white gray walls and roofs, and cement floors. Sister-in-law set the table, made tea and chatted for us in the small yard. Zhouzhuang turned out to be
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