Where does Sanjiang Dong Camellia Oil Tea come from?

Sanjiang County is the northernmost minority nationality county in Liuzhou, Guangxi. People in China have the custom of playing camellia oleifera, especially Dong and Miao people. For example, grass seedlings should drink camellia oleifera at least three times a day, drink camellia oleifera first in the morning before going to work, and then drink camellia oleifera for lunch before cooking when they come back from work at noon. So where does the custom of ordinary people playing camellia come from? This has to start with two tea bans in the history of China:

The seven things that ordinary people do when they open the door are "rice, oil, salt, sauce, vinegar and tea". However, in the history of China, the State of Jin banned tea twice. According to the Records of Japanese Knowledge, according to the History of Jin Dynasty, it was once in the fifth year of Taihe (AD 1205) and once in the second year of Emperor Xuanzong of Jin Dynasty (AD 1223). Due to the provincial achievements of Shangshu, "Tea, in addition to diet, Tea shops in the market belong to each other, and business travelers often exchange silk for tea, which costs no less than one million a year. What is useful is easy to use. " It turns out that because Di Chin is in the north, it is a country with nomadic people as the main body, and tea is not produced in China, and the cost of importing tea is very high, which should be banned; However, Zhang Zong banned tea, and only the people were banned. "If an official with more than seven products is ordered to eat tea, his family members are still not allowed to sell it, and those who should not eat it will be rewarded (gold)." . Although the speeches of the ministers of the two provinces are still called "food in urgent need", it is quite clear that "tea originated in the Song Dynasty, and border people covet cross-border private exchange", which is tantamount to "using useful capital" to fund the Song Dynasty. It turns out that tea is not "useless" but "useful" because of wealth. Protecting national strength is particularly necessary in the case of confrontation between Song and Jin Dynasties, wartime and peacetime. At this time, the level of "Xu Shi" has also improved, and it is no longer based on seven products, but must be "officials with five or more products"; The ban is also very strict: "The rest will be banned, and offenders will be sentenced to five years in prison and the reward will be 10,000 yuan. "Why is it that' useless things' tea is' allowed to eat' in official houses with more than seven or five products, and it is no longer a' useless thing'? It can be seen that "useless" is just an excuse. Leave him alone, but farmers are used to "drinking tea". Can we say that this is forbidden? In this way, people have to think of other tricks. Isn't tea forbidden in your government? Do you still ban soup and vegetables? So they changed the way of "drinking tea". First, they put a little rice in the pot, fry it in oil, then add tea leaves and stir it a little. Finally, they put water into tea soup, which is eaten with various dishes or just used for soaking rice. In this way, "eating tea" has been subtly turned into eating vegetables and drinking soup, and the government can't help it. During the Five Dynasties, the Ten Kingdoms and the Song Dynasty, northerners moved south in succession. With the large-scale invasion in the Jin and Yuan Dynasties, the nomadic people in the north also moved southward, especially in the Yuan Dynasty, when the Han nationality moved to the border areas. All ethnic groups in the border areas, including Mongolians, moved into the Central Plains and Jiangnan in large numbers. In the early Ming Dynasty, Zhu Yuanzhang drove away the ethnic minorities, and they gradually moved to Hunan and Guangxi bordering Hunan. (Today, there are still people in Tongdao County, Hunan Province who can trace back to their ancestors. ) and their "tea-eating" method has gradually evolved into a diet method and diet culture handed down from generation to generation. The grass seedlings now living in Budai Village, Bajiang Township, Sanjiang County can be used as evidence. Judging from their costumes and tea-drinking culture, they are probably descendants of Mongols. They speak Dong dialect and sing Han songs, especially women wear long dresses and belts, much like Mongolian clothes, and both women and men wear headscarves, just like the Mongols now. It's just that we make clothes with local materials and local batik cloth. The top of their drum tower is not like a gourd used by Dong people, but a galloping horse (the horse is the totem of nomadic people). There are also some customs that can better reflect the origin of grass seedlings and northern nomads, that is, when playing with camellia oleifera, a bamboo or wooden knife-shaped "sign" is put in the bowl, which evolved from Mongolian knives. In their own words, it is "because our ancestors were nomadic people and had the habit of drinking tea and cutting meat", so they have been studying until now.

As we all know, China Tea Ceremony has experienced the evolution of four tea drinking techniques: boiling, frying, lighting and soaking. Just as we Han people come to visit on a cold night to serve tea, due to the different historical origins of the above-mentioned tea-drinking culture of ethnic minorities, guests enter Dong and Miao families without handing boiled water to prepare tea, but playing camellia oleifera to entertain guests, which is similar to the tea-serving etiquette of Han people.

Camellia oleifera: Dong people have always had the habit of "beating camellia oleifera". Anyone who has lived in Sanjiang for a period of time will naturally "catch this good habit". Therefore, the Dong people like to grow tea trees, and it is passed down from generation to generation that drinking camellia oleifera is the main way of breakfast for the Dong people.

Tea: Sanjiang is rich in high-quality immortal tea. Tea merchants in Jiangsu and Zhejiang provinces often sit on the Three Rivers and wait for the acquisition of superior tea. High-quality tea is produced in Bajiang, Dulong and Letong. Farmers get rich by producing tea, and their enthusiasm is high. During the Tenth Five-Year Plan period, tea production will become a pillar industry.

Oilseed: Oilseed made of glutinous rice, fried with Sanjiang vegetable oil tea, crisp and fragrant.

Method for making camellia oleifera

The production method of Sanjiang Camellia oleifera is relatively simple. Raw materials: tea (special camellia oleifera tea), avocado, shaded rice and peanuts.

Stir-fry the dark rice into popcorn first (preferably with tea oil), and then stir-fry peanuts. Then make tea. Put a little tea oil in the pot, heat it, stir-fry the tea leaves until they are semi-burnt, boil them in water, filter out the tea leaves, and add the rice, peanuts, avocado and chopped green onion in the shade. Add salt if you like salty, and sugar if you like sweet. This is the simplest. I want to eat something rich, buy some pork liver sausage and scald some vegetables.

Camellia oleifera originated from Dong people, and Miao, Yao and some Zhuang people in Liuzhou also use Camellia oleifera to entertain guests. The camellia oleifera in Sanjiang is very famous. Has a long history, simple and exquisite production. Dong people like to eat camellia oleifera. Besides three meals a day, they have to beat camellia oleifera once or three times. Before liberation, people went to work three times a day. In the morning, people went to work hungry for two hours. After coming back, they ate a bowl of camellia oleifera, rested for a while, and then had breakfast. After breakfast, I went to work for another three hours. Before lunch, I also eat a bowl of camellia oleifera. After lunch, I go to the Drum Tower to chat and have dinner at eight or nine. This kind of camellia oil tea three times a day is relatively simple and of low grade. Put the old tea leaves in an oil pan, burn them to a semi-coke, rinse them with water, and add salt after they turn yellow, thus obtaining the camellia oleifera. Put a small ball of rice or corn or beans in a bowl and soak it in tea, and you can eat it.

The production of high-grade camellia oleifera is complicated. First, fry cloudy rice into popcorn, then fry peanuts or soybeans, then stir-fry pork liver, vermicelli or lean meat and sausage, then cook soup garden or hot rice cake slices, and finally cook camellia oleifera. Some also add some raw rice, ginger sauce and garlic seeds. After the tea is boiled, filter out the tea leaves and add seasonings such as salt, chopped green onion, chrysanthemum or spinach to make delicious camellia oleifera. During the Spring Festival, guests pay special attention to camellia oleifera. Usually, guests have to eat four courses of camellia oleifera, which are also called: one empty, two gardens, three parties and four sweets. Sold out, indicating that the first camellia oleifera has popcorn, avocado, peanuts, pork liver, lean meat and vermicelli; The second garden means that the second camellia oleifera has added a water garden on the basis of "empty"; Third, on the basis of "empty", Dongba, which is cut into cubes, is added; Si Tian, let the guests drink sugar water to moisten their throats and clear their mouths. During the Chinese New Year, no matter where you go, you should finish the four courses of Camellia oleifera. In the local words, "It is impolite to eat camellia oleifera until you are full."

There are also programs to eat camellia oleifera; I ate half a bowl of Camellia oleifera for the first time, and only put some popcorn and peanuts. Add more seasoning to the second bowl, and there are five or six dishes of sauerkraut, sour fish, sour meat and beef strips for consumers to send tea; The third and fourth bowls are mainly soup gardens or rice cakes. If it is too late to make soup gardens or rice cakes, use glutinous rice instead. The fifth bowl is mostly dessert. This kind of high-grade authentic camellia oleifera generally needs to eat five small bowls before the owner will be happy. Otherwise, the host will think that his camellia is not delicious, and the guests will be ungrateful.