Tanggula reaches out his hand and grasps the sky prose

At the eastern end of the charming Qiangtang Grassland, there is a mountain covered with wind and snow all year round, which is the mysterious and infinite Tanggula. It is high in the west and low in the east, in the shape of a roof, with the main peak reaching an altitude of 6,600 meters. It is the natural boundary mountain between Qinghai and Tibet provinces, and is also the birthplace of the Nu River, Lancang River and Yangtze River.

I remember driving to the Tanggula Pass for the first time five years ago. I was a bit sleepy due to lack of oxygen in my brain, and it felt a bit dull. The altitude has reached more than 5,000 meters, but the sight feels a bit like "it looks like mountains when you look up close, and it looks like a river when you look far away". As everyone knows, this is not only the highest point of the Qinghai-Tibet Highway, but also the highest highway in the world. Because, on the huge stone tablet beside the road, it was suddenly written: "elevation 5231 meters above sea level." What’s even more unexpected is that within 90 minutes of stopping to take pictures and take a nap, I experienced a dreamlike scene of thunder and lightning, wind and snow, mist, and bright sun. Looking from a distance after the wind and snow, you can see a rainbow in the sky, the mountains and the sky are connected, and clouds are flying on the mountainside; looking up, the rolling clouds are within reach. It was an experience of stepping on Tanggula under my feet, and its magic was remembered in my memory, including the folk song recorded in the book on the Qinghai-Tibet Plateau: "Tanggula, reach out and grab the sky."

I really looked up to Tanggula when I crossed the Kunlun Pass from Golmud and headed west to Tibet in June last year. The four of us started driving at 7 o'clock in the morning and crossed the Tuotuo River at 10 o'clock. That day was a rare sunny day on the Northern Tibetan Plateau. The orange-red sun escorted our green off-road vehicle all the way to the west. Unknowingly, a rare spectacle in the world appeared in the distance ahead: numerous ice peaks and numerous mountains. Ten glaciers cascaded horizontally, flying like jade dragons in a corner of Qiangtang, which made me appreciate what it means to be majestic and swallow mountains and rivers. When the speeding car approaches, we can see that the Jade Ice Pagoda forest stands high in the sky, leaning against each other. It looks like thousands of soldiers with their heads wrapped in brocade and armor, guarding the world of ice and snow. It is awe-inspiring.

Looking at us all looking stunned, Dundup, the Tibetan staff officer of the National Movement Committee of the Tibet Military Region who was traveling with us, smiled and said, there are better scenery inside, but the car is not working well. How about it? Do you have the guts to get out of the car and walk with me? . Although I feel a little tight in my chest and short of breath, I can't stand the temptation of the strange snow scene. Besides, Dundup has challenged us, and we can't afford to be embarrassed in front of our comrades from ethnic minorities! Fortunately, none of the three of us suffered from severe altitude sickness. Following the rules of "speak softly, breathe deeply, and move slowly", we got off the bus. Dundup led us all the way through the snow and into the depths of the mountainous area two kilometers away. The scene in front of us was simply dreamlike, letting us know what is called "shock": the mythical Crystal Palace glittering and translucent in the clouds and mist. It flickered like a jade tower or a phantom of a fairy mountain... On the way back to the road, we saw another sudden and strange thing: rolling dark clouds, strong winds, and hail and snowflakes flying down the hijab. Fortunately, we were all wearing hats and thick warm camouflage uniforms, so the snow and hail didn’t seem to have much impact on us. It only took about 10 minutes. The wind and snow stopped, and when I opened my eyes, I had to continue to be impressed by Tanggula's majestic appearance and marvel at the uncanny workmanship of the Creator.

I really want to thank Dundup. His words and deeds along the way diluted our altitude sickness. He told us that Tanggula means "high mountain on the mountain" in Tibetan and "mountain difficult for eagles to cross" in Mongolian. The main peak, Geladandong, is the birthplace of the Tuotuo River, the main source of the Yangtze River. It is said that in the early years, the glacial deposits on its two slopes were more than 800 meters thick, forming a karst terrain. After the glaciers melted, the mountains rose rapidly, and the two sides were unable to withstand the huge pressure of sand and gravel, causing the strata to subside. This resulted in the formation of today's east-west mountains, two east-west water systems, and a large number of lake hot springs. Then, he told us a mythical story that is still circulating on the snow-capped mountains and grasslands: "The Behemoth Descends to Earth."

Legend has it that a long time ago, there were treacherous and rebellious ministers in heaven who said that the Qiangtang grassland was a barbaric "ghost land", so the Jade Emperor put a calf here and ordered it to gnaw it all. Wild grass gives wild ghosts nowhere to hide.

Tanggula is really too tall! I couldn't help but blurt out the folk song of the Tibetan compatriots again: "Tanggula, reach out and grab the sky."

Traveling to and from the Qinghai-Tibet line, I encounter Tanggula every time. Only the majestic stone cows filled the sky, but the rhythm of "Song of Gongjuama" was not heard. I think the brothers in the military station will definitely hear it. It is a pity that since then, the sacred mountains and green fields have always entered my dreams, but I have no choice but to retain the dream like my comrades in the military station. Therefore, I envy the officers and soldiers of "Unit 5231" and the girl Ye Wu in the novel I read in middle school. summer.