Fashion Perspective Report

N E W

S u mmer T i me

G I RL FASH I ON

Some time ago, I saw Miss Alexa Chung doing " For the cover shot of HommeGirls" Issue.3, the visual planning is based on the theme of "working time", just like a Power Lady running on the streets of New York.

What is even more eye-catching is the magazine slogan of "HommeGirls" - "Dedicated to women who love men's style and dressing up". This independent women's magazine is designed by a Thai-American designer. Thakoon Panichgul was founded in June last year.

I had the idea for this issue’s topic at that time. The ideal state of people and clothes is to better highlight the personal charm of the wearer.

For example, French designer Ludovic de Saint Sernin, who was shortlisted for the LVMH Prize last year, said: "Dressing has nothing to do with gender, the important thing is to please yourself." I couldn't agree more.

In fact, the original meaning of Homme Girl does not only refer to women who like to wear men's clothing, but an attitude in which we insist on self-dressing requirements. You can be sexy, cool, sweet, and intellectual. Switch as you like. When facing life, the clothes I choose give me confidence.

Girls who like boys

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Martin Margiela and Hermès

"Eternal Wardrobe"

" I don’t need high heels to wear Hermès designed by Margiela.”

I just watched the documentary “Martin Margiela: In His Own Words” and I have to say that Hermès in the Margiela era was elegant and deconstructed. The master of liberalism became the creative director of Hermès in April 1997, and also brought "masculine women's clothing" into Hermès.

When avant-garde meets conservatism, when anti-fashion meets Hermès, structure and minimalism are integrated into the equestrian tradition of exquisite skills, and luxury fashion becomes confident, easy-going, and extremely elegant.

In the first show during his tenure in 1998, most of the people invited were non-professional models. Maggie Cheung was also specially invited to participate in the catwalk because she wanted to show people of different ages and identities. The same soft and independent temperament.

And a radically disruptive idea: the rejection of fashion as a rapidly changing and disposable commodity.

Margiela's design continues the brand's tradition of using the highest quality fabrics, focusing on minimalist and alienated structural tailoring. The design focuses on the shape and surface treatment of the material, as well as on the collar, cuffs, and pockets. Wait for bold treatment.

Straight silhouette jackets, turtleneck sweaters, wide-leg pants, etc. still lead modern fashion aesthetics.

The woman he faced was a woman who had freedom, a sense of humor, and did not rely on her own sexual attraction to exist. It was a portrait of a wise woman. Fashion should be the most important thing for working women at that time. At ease.

Only talking about the tone, taking the color out of the language of Hermès, the design has no serious temperament at all, but is peaceful.

“I made them look boring on purpose. At first only a handful of female customers accepted them, then more and more.

As they age, both men and women will gradually understand what suits them and what clothes make them happy. When you get older, you will naturally understand it, and I hope it will continue. ”

Margiela uses his always low-key fashion understanding to integrate the core essence of Hermès, creating women with ideas, elegant and classic dressing styles.

Also influenced Designers such as Raf Simons, Marc Jacobs, and Alexander Mcqueen

Less is more

Lemaire

"Regardless of age, gender, and skin color"

Lemaire ranks in my top five for minimalist and timeless fashion.

Christophe Lemaire and Sarah-Linh Tran are worthy of being called "private server masters" by industry designers. They are luxurious and down-to-earth, without any sense of distance.

To me, the entire show of the 2020 Autumn and Winter Series looks like a performance art with fashion as the element. Everyone among the "all living beings" coming and going seems to have their own thoughts and feelings. Plot and narrative, you seem to be able to see restaurants, offices, art galleries, train stations, on the way to catch the subway, or waiting to meet friends on the street..., like passers-by passing by you and me, each Have different personalities.

In the aesthetic atmosphere of clothing and emotions, the understatement of minimalism reflects the meticulous pursuit of silhouette and detail design, as well as the restraint and freedom that leaves room for restraint.

Christophe Lemaire once said something that impressed me deeply:

"It is when you forget about the way you dress that poetry happens." This incident is the beginning of poetry. )

I like to dress with a little boyish ease and heroism. Women wearing Lemaire do not exert too much force, and are low-key and flexible. Through getting to know myself better and constantly seeking new things, I have established my own frank and romantic style.

Well, you look beautiful when you wear one, and I want to have my own "Lemaire wardrobe".

The Row

"The Romance of Power"

I once saw Ms. Lai Kin-hui describe the androgyny style like this: "Androgyny (neutral) is a kind of A symbol of progress, open-mindedness, cleanliness and Decency, it is a kind of meticulous refinement.”

The style portrait in my mind at that time was The Row.

The Row is the brand with the most artistic temperament in my mind. It is also an excellent representative of minimalist philosophy and mature elegance. It makes people "look expensive".

It was established in 2006 by sisters Ashley and Mary-Kate Olsen. When I first learned that it was founded by the Olsen sisters, I could still remember watching their movie "New York Hours" in junior high school.

I like the concept of The Row brand: "From the beginning, our positioning of The Row has been perfection, first-class quality and easy to wear, integrating modernity and classics, and will allow all women to show their best. The good side. ”

Drawing inspiration from the structure and tailoring of men’s clothing, the design lines are simple but not monotonous, and the ultimate and pure in relaxed and casual style are designed to give people long-term elegance and comfort.

It is an extremely unobtrusive fusion of "high street fashion" dressing methods. The significance of the reference is self-evident. The style is like a large freehand canvas that can provide people with a lot of inspiration. Bold yet extremely delicate.

I feel that using high-end alone to describe it is already boring. *** passionately shares the cool and restrained surprise of the mixed temperament, as well as the elegant and gentle sense of strength. Every step is full of momentum and attitude. Subtle and silent.

Power Lady

Bottega Veneta

"The opposite law of softness and hardness"

"If you get closer, you will find her "Both an angel and a warrior" is used to describe BV's style. He looks fragile but will not give in easily.

BV’s temperament is like that of a fashionable and sophisticated woman, with a romantic temperament that is tempered, very Sex and the City.

"He transforms the clothes you are most familiar with in the bedroom (bedroom) into a style that can be worn directly to the boardroom (office)."

Carry the bigger and more fashionable clothes. Woven bags have a charming and cool look, but also have the casual and casual look of today's daily life.

Accessories are amplified in the popular elements of each season. The brand can be recognized at a glance without a logo. The iconic Intrecciato (leather weaving), The (Shoulder) Pouch cloud bag, The Arco handbag, soft High heels, thick chains...

Creative director Daniel Lee once said about the image of BV in his heart: "Many people think my designs are very cool and tough, but this does not express my true thoughts. In my heart, Bottega Veneta represents Italian culture and conveys a warm and friendly feeling."

Carrying a soft cloud bag in the slender and streamlined cool fashion style can also be worn by female warriors. It is gentle and calm.

I think of BV’s famous saying:

“When your own initials are enough.”

(When your own initials are enough)

After all, it is really red.

Proenza Schouler

"The frankness and modernity of a strong woman"

Another brand I recommend in Power Lady is: Every outfit is a practical and fashionable demonstration Proenza Schouler is a brand known for its "coolness" in the fashion circle.

The brand name is taken from the maiden names of designers Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez’s respective mothers. The two non-scientific designers emphasize the artistic expression of women’s confidence and sexiness.

My love for Proenza Schouler started with the 2020 spring and summer series Campaign. The brand campaign extends from fashion works to flat looks, which can make people feel the exquisite power of modern women.

The entire collection combines simple and capable industrial style with urban modern frankness, and the waistband design adds softness and lightness to the original tough style.

The belt is too cool and cool, like a sword that has a unique style. Without it, the entire design would be lacking.

The model also carries a pair of comfortable flat shoes on her hand, which she can put on immediately after leaving the office after get off work. The design is thoughtful.

The accessories are also worth taking a look at. The bold and exaggerated metal earrings and satin-designed shoes are full of American style vitality.

Each season continues the brand's consistent simplicity and straightforwardness. This "strong woman" has both strong and soft qualities at the same time. This satisfying balance makes the clothes more durable.

From the "Daddy Style" and "Tomboy" that have continued in the 1990s, to the "Gentlewoman" that has been shouted out, and now the popular "Homme Girls", dressing is to please yourself, no matter what It is not a masculine attribute, but a style positioning that I can find my own style by picking up whatever I want to wear.

Between you and me, women should be chic in nature, and they should also be beautiful and elegant.

Do you agree~