How do people in Mohe and other places spend the winter in January?

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Walking

Mohe is located at 53 and a half degrees north latitude, which is the "North Pole of China" ". It is the coldest place in the country, with the extreme minimum temperature reaching minus 52.3 degrees Celsius. But I, a southern woman who has always been afraid of the cold, chose to go north in the snow during this freezing season to experience an extreme cold and feel the ultimate purity.

Experience the extreme cold

Be fully prepared for the cold before traveling. Even though he was so well-armed, he still felt the bitter cold. My traveling companion and I arrived in Mohe County in the evening. Once outside, the hot breath quickly turns into streaks of white smoke. The biting cold wind was like tiny needles pricking my face, causing a slight burning sensation. The most peculiar thing is that you can see the "rime phenomenon" on your own body: the hot and moist breath we exhale condenses on our eyebrows, hair, and eyelashes, forming milky white loose needle-shaped ice crystals. The men without hats all look like Santa Claus, and the women are all white-haired women. I wanted to blink, but my eyelids covered with ice crystals were very heavy and stiff. Taking out the mirror and taking a look, this ice-snow gaze has a unique flavor.

During this season, Northeastern people don’t even say below zero when talking about the temperature, they only talk about degrees. For example, if the lowest temperature that day is minus 45 degrees, they will say: 45 degrees today. -45 degrees is the lowest temperature I have ever experienced in my life. It was so cold.

During this season, the cars here will have to live in the house delicately if they are not driven for a long time. This means that the car also has to stay in the warm storage while we rest at night. Otherwise, there will definitely be no fire the next day. If, unfortunately, the hotel you are staying in does not have a garage, you have to give the car keys to the attendant and ask them to light the fire and warm the car once an hour. Even the military Hummer off-road vehicles used by the troops have to come here for extreme cold protection testing.

Solidified Boundary River

I saw the broad Heilongjiang border river between China and Russia. On the opposite side of the border river is the Russian mountain, and at the foot of the mountain is the village of Ignasiyno in the Amur region of Russia. "Thousands of miles of ice, thousands of miles of snow... dancing silver snakes in the mountains, and wax figures riding in the wild" is the best portrayal here. It is indeed difficult for southerners to imagine that the white wilderness in front of them could be a river. It is quiet, broad, solid, silvery and dazzling. People can walk very solidly on it, just like walking in the fields. But, it is indeed on the river. The only thing that can remind you that it is a river is a dark green line near the center line of the main channel, which is the only narrow, unfrozen river left.

The stone tablet erected in the square reads "North Pole of China", reminding us that we have reached the northernmost point of China. This is the symbol of Arctic Village and is as famous as Hainan's "Tianya Haijiao". Next to the stone monument is a five-star red flag flying high.

An old man was wearing a cotton military cap, his face was red and full of vicissitudes of life, he looked very much like an Eskimo. He was shoveling snow on the ice, pushing the snow out of one spot and covering it where a branch had been erected nearby. I curiously asked the old man what he was doing. He said he was fishing. I said, "Are you shoveling the snow to catch fish?" He said, "Yes, after the snow is covered, the ice will not be so thick." I suddenly realized: "Did you put this branch up to mark it? You "Did you cast a net under the branches?" He said yes, and said that he would set up the net in two days, which meant that he would come back to the frozen river to cut through the ice in two days, and use a wire net to pull out fresh fish from the holes in the ice. I asked what kind of fish it was, and he replied: "White fish."

Saying goodbye to the old man, I looked back and saw the old man working alone in the vast white field with a shovel, and my heart moved. After walking a few more steps and looking back, I saw that the old man had also stopped and watched us leave.

The northernmost village

The northernmost village in the country is the seat of the Mohe Township government, called Mohe Village or Arctic Village. I was a little excited when I saw the monument at the entrance of Beiji Village. I walked almost every path in Beiji Village, including Tongjiang Street, Changbin Road, Jianshe Road, Heilongjiang Street, etc. There are many original wooden houses in the village. The so-called wooden houses are made of round pine wood with the surrounding walls covered with mud on the inside and outside. They are typical houses unique to the frontier.

The woodcuts in winter are like oil paintings of Russian countryside scenery full of realism, solid and thick; the curls of light smoke constantly overflowing from the roof chimneys diffuse and float in the clear air, full of vitality and vitality, exuding a rich fragrance. Rustic.

There is also a sun here, but it is very lazy. It does not seem to shine or generate heat, and it just floats low in the sky. The car meandered forward, and the black ruts on the silver snow road stretched persistently into the distance. White birch trees stand tall and tall on the roadside, and Pinus sylvestris is lush and green, making the white vastness in the eyes stand out with a hint of cold vitality, but it is still desolate.

If you are looking for the north, please go to Mohe

There is a drooping red slogan on a wooden fence in the village that reads: Looking for the north, please go to Mohe. It makes people laugh. In fact, the biggest feature of Mohe Village is that it can be said to be the northernmost place in China. Therefore, they all have their own special meaning. Here is the northernmost home in China, the northernmost post office, the northernmost police station, the northernmost shopping mall, the northernmost primary school, the northernmost township government... and even the northernmost toilet!

China’s northernmost home is actually the northernmost family living in Mohe Township. It is said that this location was verified by experts through longitude and latitude measurements. It is now a landmark building in Arctic Village and has also been turned into a family hotel. Brand new wooden houses are still being expanded. About 200 meters due south from here is the geomagnetic observatory established by the National Weather Service to measure and monitor changes in the earth's magnetic field.

In China’s northernmost home, I picked two souvenir envelopes, one of which is the mysterious and gorgeous Northern Lights. One is the Arctic in China where we just took photos. Later, I went to the post office to stamp two commemorative covers. This is the northernmost post office in China.

My trip to Mohe ended with this joy of looking for the north and looking at the north. I know that the transcendent pure beauty and crispness of Mohe in winter have been deeply engraved in my memory.

■Travel Guide

▲Travel preparation: down jackets, thermal underwear, hats that can cover ears, thick cotton boots, thick cotton gloves, flashlights/headlamps and batteries, Anti-frostbite medication. Remember not to touch metal objects directly with your hands outdoors. Pay special attention to keeping your camera warm.

▲Transportation: 1467 trains from Beijing to Jiagdaqi, departing at 16:00, arriving in Qiqihar at 9:38 a.m. the next day, changing to 6345 trains from Qiqihar, departing at 11:43, and arriving at 11:29 the next day. Arrive at Mohe County. Renting a minivan from Mohe County to Arctic Village costs 150 to 200 yuan for a round trip.

▲Accommodation: The best hotel in Mohe County is Mohe Hotel, the only one with a separate bathroom. Standard room is 200 yuan per day. There are many small family hotels in Arctic Village, with beds costing 20 yuan per person. (Text/Photographed by Nong'er)