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The blogger "@ Lianzilei" is well known to traditional culture lovers because of his collection of ancient costumes and modern aesthetic textual research during the Republic of China.

In the past three years, Lian Ziyi has collected more than 100 pieces of clothes, which span nearly a hundred years, showing the spirit and stories of the past in his sharing.

Whether through the impromptu data records in Weibo or the textual research articles about clothing history in the official WeChat account "FA No.1", people know the fashion trend of clothing and makeup in the Republic of China like the palm of their hand, and they also remember the precious video moments of actresses at that time.

From the first FA of Lianzilian's official WeChat account, people can learn about the clothing and makeup aesthetics in the Republic of China.

However, Lian Zilian herself has always maintained a mysterious feeling of resolutely not showing up. Some people say that she may be an old gentleman in the collection field, while others preconceived that she was a fashionable woman from his own retro decorative painting style of Weibo.

In fact, Lian Zilian is a young man born in 1994. He majored in clothing in college. He doesn't like to express himself, and he is particularly talkative only when it comes to the history of collection and clothing.

Lian Zilian said that her hobby is spontaneous, and what she is doing now can't be called "the revival of traditional culture". After all, this topic is too big. He is more accustomed to calling himself a "fashion porter of the Republic of China", carrying old clothes to his home in the form of collection, and then carrying the records in the materials of the Republic of China to social media in the form of writing.

Even the illustrations for Weibo's head.

Although he developed a profound part in the process of loving the fashion of the Republic of China, everything has returned to the starting point, which is just a minority hobby of a subculture young people against loneliness. When more and more people are interested in traditional aesthetics, he is also willing to share his fun with more people.

The following is Lian Zizheng's self-report-

I am a senior student in 20 17, and I decided to do my undergraduate thesis in the direction of "Fashion Research in the Republic of China". I like modern fashion very much. Since high school, I will often take the high-speed train from my hometown of Shandong to Beijing and go to the China Film Archive to watch the precious films of the Republic of China. From the beginning of the broadcast, I stared at the clothes of the characters on the screen, such as what the actors wear when they get up, what they wear at home, and what shoes they change when they go out, including indoor furnishings and scene structure. Looking at them, I forgot the ordinary daily life and heavy schoolwork. I have seen the movie The Return from 65438 to 0934, which is Ruan's masterpiece that has never been published. This is the first time I have seen many sets of cheongsam in Ruan Yuling. It's really satisfactory.

For the research of my graduation thesis, I started my first antique dress in the third year of high school. Since then, my interest in collecting old clothes has been out of control.

What impressed me the most was that in 20 19, an antique dealer contacted me and said that an old man in Shanghai needed dialysis because of kidney disease, but the medical expenses were expensive, so he could only sell the clothes that his mother had left at home for a century. This is a gorgeous 1920s inverted sleeve top, with huge leaf patterns covered with the shadow of ice cracks, and the texture is like gold foil. This is a very tense design, and it is conceivable that the wearer used to be a very bold and fashionable woman. The old man must also love his mother deeply so that he can keep her clothes intact.

The workmanship and aesthetic value of clothing are real, and the story behind it doesn't seem so difficult to test. From the almost perfect appearance of this dress, I can feel the affection of the old man when he kept his mother's clothes, and I am also very happy to help the old man tide over the difficulties.

The brocade long vest collected by Lian Zi-pheasant/kloc-0 in the mid-1920s is said to come from Li Hongzhang's old house. After a hundred years, its details are still gorgeous.

I will pay more attention to the aesthetic value of clothes than winning by quantity. My collection is mainly concentrated in the Republic of China, from cheongsam and coats to men's suits, including ties, shoes, bags and other small clothes. In three years, I collected more than 100 items. From the middle of1920s, the geometric pattern big dress whose pattern was influenced by the western decorative art style; By1in the late 1920s and early 1930s, cheongsam and western-style dresses were combined to improve fashionable skirts; There is also a representative writer of "Yuanyang Butterfly School", Mr. Zhou Shoujuan, whose embroidered brocade flows out of his Suzhou residence.

Through antique clothes with good appearance, we can see people's fashion tastes and living conditions in the old days. But it is not so easy to find the ideal antique.

The first is the channel. In the west and Japan, there is a systematic old clothes collection market where sellers are experts, and they can give a relatively standardized price according to the appearance and age of old clothes. Our vintage clothing collection mainly depends on the antique market, but it is not valued as other categories. Due to the lack of professional supply channels and employees, it is more luck and fate to collect retro clothes of the Republic of China in China at present.

Young people don't cherish it, which makes it more difficult to collect and preserve it. Many descendants refused the antique clothes left by the old people at home, and some even called them "the clothes of the dead". In the past few years, good goods have usually been sold very cheaply. Spanning nearly 100 years, most of these textiles have become very fragile now. There are also antique clothes that use unprofessional lighting. After a month of exhibition, the front of the clothes has obviously faded due to light. People who buy it don't know how to save it, which also makes people feel distressed.

Strangeness is a major reason why people didn't have aesthetic consciousness in the Republic of China. When I was a fashion major in college, the textbook History of Modern Fashion in China was only two pages. Many people used "takenism" to summarize the fashion design at that time. In fact, compared with the two sets of parallel clothing systems developed in Japan and South Korea at the same time, the combination of Chinese and Western clothing in the Republic of China just showed our "modern aesthetics", and this unique aesthetic phenomenon helps to explain China's modern ideological trend and history.

It is my personal hobby to set up my own antique clothes collection system, but I hope to enjoy China's modern aesthetics with more people through the display of old clothes and the output of related contents.

The aesthetic trend reflected in the films of the Republic of China deeply attracted Lian Zilian. The picture shows movie stars taking pictures in the1940s.

From about 20 15, I began to record my observations on the fashion of the Republic of China on Weibo, and share my favorite fashion history materials, antique clothes collection pictures and other short contents. At that time, the records were improvised and fragmentary. They were happier and more like building a private interest database.

On June 5438+ 10, 2020, I founded the "first FA" of WeChat WeChat official account, which integrated and extended the interest points for many years with long articles. For example, I have discussed the five eyebrow styles in 1934, the long earring shapes in 1930 and the topics of shoulder pads, manicure and lip makeup in the early 1930s. Every time it is a small incision, try to avoid generalizations.

But the writing of long articles can be said to be even a little painful, especially the search of historical documents, which takes a lot of energy.

It often takes many days to write a 5000-word WeChat official account article. For example, once I wanted to write "shoulder pads". Judging from the preserved antique clothes and old materials, strong female aesthetics will be more popular in wartime, so many women in the Republic of China like exaggerated shoulder contours. However, because the words used in the old description are different from those used now, the word "shoulder pad" rarely appears directly in the written materials of the past. It took me several hours to read through these materials before I found a description of the "flat and wide" inverted triangle shoulder contour.

In addition, there are not many effective materials available to the public, because my partner is a graduate student of Beijing Institute of Fashion, and I can use the precious university books and archives provided by him, but it is difficult for ordinary people to obtain them. Moreover, whether it is a periodical or a book of the Republic of China, most of them are physical books or scanned copies, and most of them are not searchable cursor words, so it is often necessary to read the whole book to know if there is any information you want. Sometimes it is very difficult to read because of the damage of ancient books.

During the Republic of China, "flat and wide" shoulder pads were popular among women.

Therefore, I deeply feel how important it is to convey the precious information I have compiled and excavated in a way that is acceptable to everyone.

Fortunately, after years of collection and sorting, I have established a huge database in folders of all sizes on my hard disk. From high-quality old photos, monthly materials, antique clothing collection, to the comparison of Chinese and western materials, every time I determine the theme, I will choose the part I need from the vast amount of information. Now, there are more than 70 thousand pictures and materials in my mobile phone. During the ride, I will look through them at any time to get new inspiration.

The owners of antique clothes are real people, and their stories constitute the history of the Republic of China. How did people dress at that time, how did people live at that time, and what modern young people don't know much about is what I want to express through collection and textual research.

Textual research and sharing are good, but I gradually found something was wrong.

"Traditional aesthetics" has become a very serious topic. Some people who have the ability to research or go further in recovery tend to feel superior, and then reject those who just wear traditional clothes and catch up with the trend of "Chinese style" as "unprofessional". In other words, the power to be attracted just because of beauty is deprived.

A few days ago, I shared a female advertisement picture of 1940 on Weibo. The two young women in the photo are wearing one-piece swimsuits and smiling in the sea. My evaluation of this photo is "healthy beauty", but it was immediately questioned, because the war of aggression against China broke out in an all-round way in 1940, and some people would think that saying healthy beauty at this time would have a feeling of "why not eat minced meat".

However, it also shows that readers have higher requirements for me. Next time I share, I will try my best to combine the background of the times and make a richer explanation. However, I am also rethinking that in the war era when hunger is everywhere, the desire for bodybuilding was stronger. Pure praise of beauty can only be the taste of the elite.

Lian Zilian shared the advertising map of Moon brand drawn by Hangzhou in 1960s+0940s in Weibo. Two young women in swimsuits smile in the waves. Behind them is the first aquarium in Asia, Qingdao Luxun Park, which opened to the public on May 8th. 1932. It is this painting that caused controversy in the comment area.

Some people think that antique clothes that can be preserved to this day and the fashion styles recorded in historical materials are often aristocratic. After all, the gorgeous historical costumes and fashionable beauties on the cover of periodicals are people with high knowledge and high economic level, and the true state of the general public is often difficult to verify. This is really a problem.

Most of my antique clothes come from folk, and the materials of some clothes are not necessarily expensive, but we can still see the original owner's yearning and pursuit of fashion. For example, as mentioned above, during the war, people will pursue powerful shoulder pads, and even those women who have no money to buy fashionable clothing will make shoulder pads and sew them to the shoulder position; Some old clothes also reflect the trend of shortening the long cheongsam. During the war, in order to facilitate walking and labor, many women cut short or folded their long skirts. This pragmatic improvement formed the popular style at that time.

Therefore, although fashion is not a universal necessity that everyone is consuming, the overall fashion trend of an era can still well reflect the social characteristics and lifestyle at that time.

We always think that traditional aesthetics is fragile, but I am not worried that it will disappear, because China people's local complex is very strong, which has also been confirmed in history. I have read an article before, saying that the fashion in the Republic of China was a "fashion chaos period", during which thousands of years of clothing hierarchy collapsed, and people embraced western aesthetics in the process of moving towards modern aesthetics. Looking back at the development of fashion in the Republic of China, it formed a fashion vein independent of the western clothing system after collision and blending, and adapted to the new trend of the times and innovated people's clothing life through self-transformation again and again.

Since 20 17, our environment has been promoting national culture and traditional customs. For example, programs such as "National Treasures" always emphasize themes such as "Belt and Road" and "Silk Road Revival". The museum's exhibition on the restoration of embroidered cultural relics and the opening of the new Hangzhou Silk Museum also present the changing history of costumes in a complete and modern way. These excellent exhibitions have brought a good opportunity for the public to understand, and then triggered the current upsurge of retro styles and traditional costumes.

However, blindly following the trend has indeed caused some mixed performances, especially some businesses that simply feel profitable have produced a series of products that distort the history of clothing without much understanding. These wrong demonstrations will really affect those who lack judgment.

For example, when it comes to fashion in the Republic of China, many people will associate it with the "ancient style" cheongsam, which protrudes forward and turns back. In fact, the cheongsam in the Republic of China was a rebellion against the traditional feudal system. In addition, it absorbed western aesthetics and patterns, and formed a completely different design from ancient clothing. Too much emphasis on "traditional sense" goes against the original intention of cheongsam.

/kloc-in the early 1940s, figures of chariots and horses in the Han Dynasty embroidered double-breasted cheongsam, and the archaeological achievements of Han tombs in the Republic of China were embodied in fashion, which made the "ancient style" costumes during the war more modern and were collected by Lian Zi.

But I don't think understanding traditional aesthetics necessarily means copying it in modern fashion design. Once fashion was to imagine the future, but now fashion often falls into the mire of imitating the past. We are sometimes moved by the wisdom and innovation of the ancients. It is this simple appreciation that is not good.

Therefore, more people should be encouraged to participate and discuss, instead of "protecting" traditional culture intact in a certain circle. It's great to trigger some profound parts, but it's good to arouse everyone's interest in fashion history compared with high-sounding reasons.

Nowadays, groups of young people are active on online social platforms, sharing their understanding and practice of retro culture and aesthetics of the times. I hope more people like retro trends. Even if you just enjoy its shelter at first, it's not bad. Maybe one day you will "feed back" it.

Even though "Chinese style" and "retro style" have become new hot spots now, from my experience along the way. "Retro aesthetics", a subculture of that year, is a niche hobby that makes me feel not lonely.

Growing up, I was a somewhat withdrawn person in the eyes of ordinary people. I will be attracted by the strange world and tense plot written by horror comics Junji Ito. When other children keep diaries, I like to record and express them in the form of images.

I started painting when I was in middle school. When I was distracted in class, I was painting. In the blank space of the textbook, even on the test paper, there are illustrations that I scribbled casually. I will also spend a whole day studying the aesthetic style of history by myself. Perhaps because of this, I seem to be out of place with my peers around me, so I am excluded and bullied on campus.

I liked horror comics since I was a child, and even the painting "Sad Face" has the melancholy feeling of Fujiang.

Out of curiosity about history and images, when there was no clear concept of "clothing history", I showed great interest in historical clothing and drew shapes in costume dramas and historical documentaries. It is this simple love that prompted me to enter the clothing major.

Only in the course of clothing history in my freshman year did I come into contact with the real modern clothing history and was deeply attracted by the western clothing culture since the 20th century. From the noisy twenties, flashy thirties, beautiful forties, and Hollywood in Starlight Glimmer in the golden age, I was obsessed with fashion materials from the industrial revolution to the great era after World War II, and began to think about whether we China people also had aesthetic fashions at the same time as the West, and all the data collection began.

However, no one can give me any guidance in relevant aspects before I officially go to the art college to study. There is no artistic atmosphere in my home, and the state of groping all the way feels wild.

Fortunately, most of the time, although my parents don't understand what I am doing, they are still willing to create conditions for me.

In order to preserve my collection, I usually store each collection in a special box, so that it can be supported, not pulled by gravity, not folded and wrinkled, and try to keep the room at constant temperature and humidity. With more and more collections, these clothes occupy more and more space in my daily life. It is difficult for me to strike a balance between protecting clothes and quality of life, so my parents made room in my hometown for my antique clothes.

Once, I turned to the picture my mother secretly drew in her notebook when she was young. It turns out that she has always had an unrealized artistic dream, but she can only bury it deeply in her heart. My mother never said this, but my self-pursuit now may be the life she longed for when she was young. It makes me feel closer to her.

Lian Zilian claimed that this was her only photo.

Because of my love of fashion in the Republic of China, I was also very lucky to make great friends, and two of them became my partners.

One of them is a primary school classmate who has known her for more than 20 years. She is a simultaneous interpreter preparing for a doctorate. She has strong speculative ability and research interest. Only under her urging and persuasion can I have the motivation to create long articles continuously. The other is my college classmate, who is good at making dishes and cutting men's clothes. We can sort out the existing men's wear series and date them together, and combine the historical materials we combed to create official WeChat account articles.

In addition to collecting and writing, the studio being arranged is also about to open. The studio can be used to place the clothes collected, and it is expected to have some functions of display and reading in the future. In order to meet the expectations of family and social relations to a certain extent, I have been engaged in work unrelated to clothing in the Republic of China since I graduated from college, and now I also rely on the income from other jobs to support the operation of the studio.

In her love of traditional culture, Lian Zileng found a partner. The picture shows1940s, a modern girl in China wearing fishmouth high heels.

I didn't run a fan base or attend a party, which is also related to my "non-interactive" personality. I prefer the invisible state. A few days ago, a girl sent a private message from Weibo asking me if I was a man or a woman, which made people feel at a loss. I prefer to be able to output and communicate about my hobbies, rather than projecting my attention on myself.

That's why I prefer an open social media platform, where everyone can gain and grow from feedback and communication. I am also selfish about the development of retro fashion. When more and more people are interested in aesthetics of the Republic of China, I can "hide" in it and fight against loneliness with it.