Peking roast duck

According to legend, the beauty of roast duck comes from the precious Beijing duck, which is the best meat duck in the world today. It is said that the breeding of this special pure white Beijing duck started about a thousand years ago, because emperors of Liao, Jin and Yuan dynasties hunted and occasionally acquired this pure white wild duck species, which was raised for hunting and continued until it was obtained and cultivated into today's precious meat-eating duck species. That is, a kind of white duck fattened by feeding method, hence the name "stuffed duck". Not only that, Beijing duck was spread to Europe and America a hundred years ago, and it was a blockbuster after breeding. Therefore, as a high-quality breed, Beijing Duck has been the source of rare duck breeds in the world for a long time.

In the Northern and Southern Dynasties over 4 AD, the word "roasted duck" appeared in the Record of Food Treasures. In the Southern Song Dynasty, roast duck was a famous product in Lin 'an (Hangzhou) food market. At that time, roast duck has not only become a folk delicacy, but also a rare dish in the literati's home. But later, according to the Records of the History of the Yuan Dynasty, after the Yuan Dynasty broke Lin 'an, Bo Yan, the general of the Yuan Dynasty, once moved his skills in Lin 'an to Dadu (Beijing). As a result, the roast duck technology spread to Beijing in this way, and the roast duck became one of the treasures of the Imperial Palace. With the change of dynasties, roast duck became the delicacy of Ming and Qing courts. In the Ming Dynasty, roast duck was still a must-have dish for the Lantern Festival in the palace, and was later officially named "Beijing Roast Duck". With the development of society, Beijing roast duck gradually spread from the palace to the people.

[ Edit this paragraph] Genre

After the founding of New China, the reputation of Beijing Roast Duck has increased day by day, making it more famous in the world. It is said that Premier Zhou appreciated and paid close attention to this famous dish before his death, hosted foreign guests and tasted roast duck. In order to meet the needs of social development, the baking operation of duck shops has been modernized and the flavor is more delicious.

Quanjude is the most brilliant of the roast duck family, which has established the status of Beijing image ambassador of the roast duck family. Yang Quanren, the founder of Quanjude, was a small businessman who operated the business of raw chickens and ducks. After accumulating capital, he founded Quanjude Roast Duck Restaurant, and hired a roast duck master who used to work in the imperial dining room of the Qing Dynasty to refine the roast duck with the court's "hanging roast duck" technology, which made the "hanging roast duck" multiply among the people. Quanjude adopts the hanging oven roasting method, and does not open the duck. Just open a small hole in the duck, take out the internal organs, then pour boiling water into the duck's stomach, then tie the small hole and hang it on the fire to roast. This method can not make the duck lose water due to roasting, but also make the duck skin swell without being softened. The roasted duck skin is very thin and brittle, which becomes the most delicious part of roast duck. The hanging furnace has a furnace hole and no furnace door, and uses jujube, pear and other fruit trees as fuel and open flame. When the fruit wood is fired, it is smokeless, the bottom fire is strong and the burning time is long. After the duck enters the furnace, the position of the duck should be changed regularly with the pole, so that the duck can be heated evenly and roasted all over. The roasted duck has a plump appearance, a purplish red color, crisp skin, tender outside and a fruity fragrance, which makes it more delicious when tasted carefully. Strictly speaking, only this roasting method is called Beijing roast duck.

Compared with hanging roast duck, braised roast duck represented by cheap square seems to be less impressive. Fortunately, cheap square, an old brand with a history of nearly 6 years, has applied for "national intangible cultural heritage protection" with its roast duck skills. Compared with the reputation of Quanjude, the cheap roast duck, which was founded in Yongle period of Ming Dynasty, actually has an earlier history, which has been nearly 6 years. The so-called "stewing furnace" is actually a kind of ground furnace. The furnace body is made of bricks and the size is about one meter square. Its production method was first introduced to Beijing from the south, characterized by "ducks can't see open flames", which is made by stewing charcoal fire in the furnace and hot furnace wall. Because of the need to use dark fire, it requires high technology. The person in charge of the stove must master the temperature in the stove. If the temperature is too high, the duck will be roasted, and vice versa. The skin of braised roast duck is bright and crisp, the meat is white, tender and delicious. Stewing roast duck is the signature of cheap square, but the stewing stove for burning straw has already been changed into an electric stewing stove. Nowadays, there are few roast duck restaurants that use stewing ovens, and most roast duck restaurants use Quanjude hanging ovens. Stewed roast duck tastes more tender, and the juice of duck skin is obviously richer and fuller. However, the fruity fragrance of the roast duck seems to make people realize the wisdom of the earliest "roasting" cooking method mastered by human beings.

Dadong Roast Duck Restaurant (slightly less well-known than the above two restaurants, but also very delicious), diagonally opposite the Beijing-Guangzhou center, is very particular about its dishes, and it is really baked with apple wood, so its taste and mouthfeel are unspeakable. Mr. Dadong was born in Quanjude. You must try adding some mashed garlic to the lotus leaf cake. It's so delicious that the waiter will teach you how to eat it.

Nowadays, hanging roast duck and stewing roast duck are two major schools of roast duck in Beijing. Just like Beijing Roast Duck improved Shandong Roast Duck, now many restaurants that make roast duck have improved these two traditional schools to suit modern tastes and consumption ideas. For example, the key interpretation of eating the skin of roast duck, such as the special selection of duck varieties by Xiaowangfu, and even the replacement of shredded onion with cucumber strips in many places, are all good improvements, but as for the gold foil roast duck made in some places, it is a bit mysterious.

[ Edit this paragraph] Method

Formula of raw materials:

The main ingredient of roast duck is stuffed duck. Because duck filling has the advantages of short feeding time, fast fattening, clear fat and thin, thick subcutaneous fat, tender and moderate, not fishy and not sour. It is the most ideal raw material for making roast duck.

production method 1. Slaughter

Tools:

A butcher knife and a blood basin.

Method: (1) First, hold the roots of two duck arms with the left hand, lift the right palm of the duck backwards with the right hand, and then hook it tightly with the little finger of the left hand. Hold the duckbill with your right hand, bend its neck downward, and hold the lower part of the duck head with your left thumb and forefinger to tighten the neck skin. (2) Hold a knife in your right hand, gently cut off the esophagus and trachea, then put down the knife, hold the duckbill with your right hand, make the knife edge aim at the blood basin (a proper amount of water and refined salt is added in advance in the basin), and move the duck up with your left hand to control the duck's blood.

note: the operation should be steady, accurate and fast, the incision should be small, the two tubes (esophagus and trachea) should be cut off, and the duck blood should be controlled. In addition, let the ducks drink enough water before slaughter, so that the duck feathers are easy to dry.

2. Hair perm equipment and tools: a big stove, a cauldron, a cold water basin, a water spoon and a small round stick.

method: (1) put the pot on fire, add clean water (8% full), and wait until the water is heated to 55 ~ 6℃ (there is no thermometer, you can test the water temperature by hand. The method is: soak your hands in a cold water basin first, then put them in the pot for quick stirring. If you can stir them for 3 ~ 4 times continuously, your hands will be too hot to stir again, and then you can scald the ducks in the pot. (2) When ironing, first hold the duck's paw with your left hand, immerse the duck's head in the pot and shake it with your hands. Then put the duck into the pot, and move it back and forth along the duck with a small wooden stick to make the duck feathers permeate evenly. The duck is scalded in water for about 3 minutes (try to pluck the feathers by hand while scalding). When the duck feathers are easily plucked, it means that the duck feathers are scalded, and the duck should be taken out immediately. Note: when ironing, the action should be fast, the water temperature should be moderate, and the ironing time should be appropriate.

3. Maomao

Equipment and tools: a wooden chopping board and a cold water basin. Method: (1) Put the scalded duck breast face up on the chopping board, press the duck body with your left hand, pour some cold water on the duck breast with your right hand, and then brush the duck breast down with your right hand (lightly). (2) Turn the duck over, put it on the feather under the duck, and then hold the duck down with your left hand. Use your right hand to brush the hair off the duck's back and tail tip. Then, remove the hair from the duck neck and head. Note: the operation should be quick and light, the duck feathers should be clean, and the duck skin should not be broken or damaged. 4. Hair selection equipment and tools: a wooden basin (or iron basin) and a pair of duck tweezers (duck tweezers are a special tool for picking duck hair). Methods: (1) Hair selection must be carried out in a basin (cold water is used in spring, summer and autumn, and warm water is available in winter). When choosing hair, hold the duck body with your left hand and duck tweezers with your right hand to clean the remaining hair and fetal skin of the duck body. (2) Pay special attention not to damage the duck body when choosing wool, and don't touch it repeatedly with your fingers, otherwise the duck body will cause oil spill and affect the quality. Note: the action of selecting wool should be fast and steady, the residual wool should be selected cleanly, and the duck skin should not be spilled or damaged.

5. evisceration (cavity discharge) equipment and tools: an air compressor, a spatula, a cold water basin and a duck support.

Method: (1) Place the duck breast upward and the duck head outward. Hold the duck's paw with your left hand, lift it up slightly to tighten the duck's leg, and chop the duck's paw from the joint with your right hand with a knife. Then, turn the duck over, make the duck head face inward, break the duck bill and pull out the duck tongue. (2) Turn up the duck skin at the knife edge of the duck neck, pull the esophagus and trachea with your left hand, and gently poke the thumb of your right hand along the esophagus and trachea under the duck neck to the top of the duck's bladder. Then pull off the trachea and take it out. (3) Hold the duck's head with the left hand, poke the air nozzle of the air compressor into the knife edge of the duck's neck with the right hand, and start to inflate (the air is inflated into the fat layer outside the skin and meat). When the gas is filled to 89% full, pull out the gas nozzle and hold the root of the duck neck with your left hand to prevent gas from escaping. (4) Stick the index finger of the right hand into the anus for 3 ~ 4cm, bend the index finger upwards, hook the tail end of the large intestine, and break the joint between the large intestine and the anus. Then, move the right duck arm forward, stick it with your left hand, hold a knife with your right hand, and cut a 3 ~ 5 cm knife under its right arm. (5) Put the thumb and forefinger of the right hand into the knife under the duck's arm. Pull out the head of esophagus and trachea. Then wrap the pulled esophagus around the index finger of the left hand and tighten it. At the same time, the thumb and forefinger of the right hand extend into the duck cavity, hook off the soft tissue connected with the internal organs from top to bottom, then hook the duck gizzard, and pull out the internal organs with both hands. The right index finger and middle finger extend into the duck cavity again. On both sides of the spine. Take out the lung lobe. (6) With the index finger and middle finger of the right hand, poke the duck brace into the duck cavity from the knife edge, place the lower end of the duck brace on the spine, tilt it forward slightly in an upright position, and then pull it back after it is stabilized, so as to clamp it into the sternum and triple bone, so as to support the duck body.

note: the evisceration should be quick, the incision should be small, the duck body should be free of blood stains, the duck body should be full of air, the skin should not be broken, the internal organs should be cleaned, and everything (duck liver, duck intestines, duck gizzards, etc.) should be intact.

6. chamber measuring hook

equipment and tools: a large basin (or pool).

Method: (1) Put the thumb of the left hand into the knife edge under the duck's arm, hold the duck's back with the other four fingers, and then press the duck into the basin (or pool) to fill the duck cavity with clear water. Then, put the duck's head up and lift the duck. Use the index finger of the right hand to poke into the anus of the duck, hook up the ileum head, and make the water flow out of the anus. Then press the duck into the water, so that the duck cavity is filled with water, and the duck head is turned downwards, so that the water in the duck cavity flows out from the skin of the neck and the duckbill, and the impurities and mucous membranes in the duckbill and the duck neck are washed out, and the washing of the cavity is finished. (2) Hold the duck's head with the left hand, lift the duck, place it at the lower end of the duck's head with the right hand, and stroke it down to the root along the duck's neck to remove the rest air. Then put the thumb and forefinger of the right hand into the knife edge under the duck's arm, lift the duck, release the left hand, and make the duck's head hang down. Use a duck hook to lower the hook at the duck neck 5 ~ 6 cm away from the root of the duck neck, so that the tip of the duck hook is exposed from the other end. Attention: Wash the duck cavity, duck neck and duck bill, and hook out the soft tissues in the intestine and duck cavity. There is no blood stain on the duck's skin, and the duck hook should be hung correctly and the hook distance should be moderate.

7. blanching and coloring (coloring)

equipment and tools: a fire stove, a large pot, a basin filled with sugar water and a water spoon.

method: rinse the basin containing sugar water, add maltose and water and mix well. Then put the pot on the fire, add water, and boil until it boils. Lift the duck hook with your left hand, lift the duck to the top of the pot (be careful not to immerse the duck head in the water), hold the spoon in your right hand and scoop up the boiling water in the pot. From the knife edge of the duck body, scald the duck skin from top to bottom (3 ~ 4 times). After scalding the duck skin, quickly lift the duck to the top of the sugar water basin, and pour the duck with the evenly stirred sugar water for 3 ~ 4 times. Just control the water in the duck cavity.

Proportion and preparation method of syrup:

Generally, the ratio of jujube red roast duck is 1: 5.6 ~ 6 (that is, 1 kg of caramel is mixed with 5.5 ~ 6 liters of clear water).

generally, the golden roast duck is 1 ∶ 6.5 ~ 7.5 (that is, 1 kg of caramel is mixed with 6.5 ~ 7.5 liters of clear water).

when mixing, firstly put maltose into a basin, drain it with a small amount of warm water, then add clear water according to a certain proportion, and stir it repeatedly by hand to make it uniform (if white sugar is used, first add a small amount of clear water, boil it for a while on fire, then pour it into the basin, add clear water according to a certain proportion, and stir it evenly).

note: use strong fire, the water should be boiled away, the ratio of sugar to water should be moderate, and the duck skin should be shiny and beautiful.

8. Equipment and tools for drying blanks

Choose a duck pole and hang a set of duck poles (or duck racks).

method: hang the boiled and sugared duck blank on a duck hanging rod (or rack) and put it in a cool and ventilated place to dry the duck skin. Generally, it is aired for about 24 hours in spring and autumn, and 4 ~ 6 hours in summer. In winter, the airing time should be appropriately increased.

note: when drying duck blanks, avoid sunlight and do not use high-intensity lamps. In winter, do not install heating equipment indoors. Observe the change of duck blank at any time when it is dried. If oil spills from duck skin (oil beads appear), take it off immediately and hang it in the cold storage for preservation.

9. storage equipment and tools: one cold storage and one set of duck rack in the cold storage.

method: the dried duck blanks should be hung on the rack for hanging duck blanks in the cold storage in sequence, and the duck blanks should not be squeezed, touched or pressed.

note: the temperature in the cold storage should be controlled at 3 ~ 5℃. Preparation for baking 1. Choose firewood. Jujube firewood is the best fuel for Beijing roast duck (hanging stove). When jujube firewood cannot meet the supply, peach, apricot, pear and other fruit tree firewood should be used. Wood for fruit trees has less smoke and harder fire. It is resistant to burning and has the characteristics of clear fragrance. The use of wood such as pine, cypress, Chinese toon and tung with peculiar smell should be prohibited. 2. Clean the furnace and burn it. Under normal circumstances, it is necessary to clean up the residual ash in the oven 1 hour in advance, leave enough charcoal bottom and code the fruit firewood. Ignition for about 3 minutes, when the furnace temperature rises above 2℃, it can be ready for baking. Roasting technology 1. Stab the duck and block it. Before the duck blank is baked in the oven, the prepared duck plug should be skillfully stabbed into the anus of the duck, and it should be stuck in the anus to prevent the soup from flowing out after the duck body is filled with soup. The so-called clever neck means that the action of stabbing into the blockage should be accurate and rapid. Because the duck skin is tight after air-drying, the duck is blocked by stabbing, hesitating, turning left and twisting right, which is bound to crush the duck skin, so it must be inserted and clamped at once with skill. 2. Fill the soup. When the duck blank is stabbed and the duck is blocked, boiling water (or appropriate amount of pepper water and cooking wine can be added) can be poured from the knife edge of the duck body, which is called soup pouring. Generally, the boiling water poured into the duck body accounts for about eight tenths of the duck cavity.

3. Colour it twice. After the duck blank is enema, it must be colored twice (that is, the second sugar beating, the difference from the first sugar beating is that the sugar content of the syrup should be appropriately reduced). The method is: lift the duck hook with your left hand, lift the duck blank above the sugar water basin, hold the water spoon with your right hand, scoop up the sugar water, and pour it evenly on the duck blank. The purpose of secondary coloring is mainly to prevent uneven coloring.

4. Turn to roast and stir the crotch. After the duck blank is colored twice. Check the duck hook (to prevent looseness and difficulty)