On the Prose of Sichuan Teahouse

Sichuanese can't live without tea, let alone a teahouse. In every corner of Bashan and Shushui, there will be teahouses where there are people. Sichuan Teahouse is a unique business card created by Sichuan people, and it is also a rare and beautiful scenery in urban and rural areas.

Sichuan's climate supports people, and Sichuan tea contributes a lot. Many places in Sichuan produce tea and are famous for it. Because of this, Sichuanese love tea beyond ordinary people's imagination. Those teahouses, large and small, are all over urban and rural areas. No matter whether it is cold or hot, people at table 351 sit around in groups, holding a bowl of tea in their hands and talking noisily about long families and short families.

Sichuanese are outspoken, which may be related to sitting in a teahouse. Imagine if everyone is sitting around drinking tea, but their hearts are full of "career" and they are wary of each other. Can this tea still be tasted? Sichuanese are keen to sit in teahouses precisely because people who drink tea don't need to be wary. People all over the world can talk, even if it is nonsense. After blowing, the tea residue is poured out, just like no one cares about the whereabouts of the tea residue. Who can explain what was said during tea?

Although Sichuan Teahouses sell tea for a living, they can be divided into tea stalls, teahouses and teahouses because of their different locations and decoration grades. A real tea drinker doesn't care how well you decorate the venue, but attaches great importance to the cultural content of the bowl of tea you sell and whether the taste of the tea soup is pure.

In the middle of Sichuan, tea stalls along the river in large and medium-sized cities are second to none. Basically, every city will have a river passing around or through the city, so Sichuanese will use the sidewalks on both sides of the river to set up stalls to sell tea, ranging from dozens to hundreds of tables. The tea tables arranged along the river meander like dragons, with no end before and no end after. Over time, it has become a magnificent and unique cultural landscape of Bashan and Shushui.

These tea stalls are run by dozens or even hundreds of bosses. They hold dozens of bowls with lids in their left hand, a pot of boiling water in their right hand and a white towel on their shoulders. They spread their legs and trotted freely between the tea tables, shouting "A bowl of bamboo leaves, come to Luo", "A bowl of hairy tips, wait a minute" and "A bowl of green mountains and green waters" as they ran. The shouts of the bosses are one after another.

Hundreds or even tens of thousands of tea drinkers came to the river, moved a bamboo chair, sat on the bamboo chair wholeheartedly, ordered a bowl of covered tea, put the tea bowl close to the nose, closed their eyes slightly, and took a deep breath again and again, for fear that it would overflow like a covered bowl, and then slowly savored it.

There was a man drinking tea alone, watching the small fish in the river, thinking nothing quietly; There are still a group of people who don't seem to have time for tea. They held tea bowls to their noses one by one and suddenly smelled "good tea, good smell!" " Then he took two sips: "Boss, keep drinking!" " So back and forth, a bowl of tea has not yet tasted tea, and the cows have blown all over Qian Shan; Others are lovers, not lovers. After they came to make a cup of tea, they didn't care about the tea bowl in front of them. Instead, they looked at each other quietly and stared at the "sadness" of people who only had tea without tea. ......

The most representative of Sichuan tea culture should be the teahouse opened in the ground floor facade room or other rooms, which mainly sells "Gaiwancha". Gaiwancha has a long history, with a cover on the top, a plate on the bottom and a bowl in the middle, also known as the "three-talent bowl"; It is said that it was invented in Chengdu by the daughter of Cui Ning, the diplomatic envoy of Xichuan, during the middle period of Tang Dezong Jian (780-783).

Sichuan Teahouses also pay attention to drinking tea: if the tea cover is placed on the table, it means that the tea bowl is empty, and the teahouse owner will come to refill the water soon; If the tea drinker leaves temporarily, the tea cover will be buckled on the bamboo chair, which means that the person has not gone far, so naturally no one will occupy the seat, and the items carried by the tea drinker will be placed next to the seat, and the boss will take care of them ... Sichuan tea culture has a long history and has penetrated into the hearts of those "ashes" tea drinkers. Therefore, tea drinkers in Sichuan teahouses, especially those who consume tea by the masses, are mostly local people for many years, except for occasional visits from outsiders. They all gave each other money for tea, only the first one was given by themselves. In some teahouses, in order to promote business, the first person to drink tea is often free. When the second one comes, the first one pays for his tea, when the third one comes, the second one pays, and so on. If a person who has been drinking tea for many years walks into a teahouse and no one pays for the tea, it means that this person must be flawed in doing things for others. Therefore, the "three-piece set" in "Gaiwancha" refers to the bowl as "being a man", which is the truth.

A few days ago, the author went to a nearby county to learn about the teahouse in Sichuan and walked into an old teahouse that had been open for decades. I looked up and saw that more than 20 tea tables were almost full of old people. When they saw my sudden visit as a stranger, the teahouse, which had just been very lively, suddenly became quiet, and dozens of pairs of eyes looked at me uniformly.

The boss stepped forward: "What kind of tea?"

"What kind of tea do these old customers like best?"

"They, Sanhua (short for third-class scented tea)"

"I want a bowl of three flowers, too."

"Three flowers and a bowl!" The boss shouted, put the towel on his shoulder and turned to make tea.

The boss quickly brought me a bowl of "three flowers". When I opened the lid of the tea bowl, the tea drinkers in the room stole a look at me from time to time. The tea drinker who spoke loudly just now lowered his voice, which sounded like whispering. I motioned the boss to let him come over and asked him what was going on.

The boss told me, "In a small town, all the people who come to this teahouse for tea are acquaintances. Suddenly a foreigner came, and people who drink tea have a preventive mentality, which naturally produces a sense of distance. "

"What can I do to make them treat me as a friend?"

"You can pay for their tea, which is the best gift for tea drinkers. Of course, people who drink tea value not only two dollars for a bowl of tea, but your respect for them. Drill a hole, you are either a cadre or an educated person, and you have less communication with these voracious old men and more ditches. "

I promised my boss to pay for the guests attending the tea party today.

After the boss told me what I meant, the teahouse, which was almost silent just now, came back to life. Several old customers came to the table where I was sitting with their own tea bowls and greeted me one after another.

I chatted with these old tea drinkers about past lives in the small town teahouse, and got a lot of fresh materials about the Sichuan teahouse, which passed unconsciously all morning.

Near noon, the tea drinkers left the teahouse one after another. They came to thank me one by one and then went home. When I asked the boss to pay the bill, the boss told me: You are a foreigner coming to our tea village, and there is no reason for you to pay for tea. Not only can the tea drinker not ask you to pay for your tea, but even your tea has already been paid for you. People who drink tea don't care about money, but care about respect and personality, just like that bowl of ordinary third-grade scented tea, which looks clear, tastes sweet in the mouth, lasts for a long time and is full of fragrance. "

Sichuan teahouse looks ordinary, but when you walk into the teahouse and drink a bowl of tea with a bowl of tea with a bowl of tea with a bowl of tea with a bowl of tea with a bowl of tea with a bowl of tea with a bowl of tea with a bowl of tea with a bowl of tea with a bowl of tea with a bowl of tea with a bowl of tea with a bowl of tea with a bowl of tea with a bowl of tea with a bowl of tea with a bowl of tea with a bowl of tea with a bowl of tea with a bowl of tea with a bowl of tea with a bowl of tea with a bowl of tea with a bowl of tea, you will suddenly discover the profoundness of Sichuan tea culture and truly realize the true meaning of why ordinary people love that bowl of tea with a bowl of tea.

People talk about a lot of food culture, and tea culture is the real culture.

The common people's images of drinking tea, drinking and smoking are summarized as follows; Idle tea, stuffy wine, stuffy smoke.

Drinking tea means leisure, which means leisure, tranquility and harmony. It is an elegant leisure with considerable cultural content.

In the past years, people with or without culture took the teahouse as the first choice to introduce their girlfriends and boyfriends to solemn things. The reason is simple: a cup of green tea is elegant and noble, and it doesn't cost a lot of money; Not many people know, and the scope is not large, especially after the failure of blind date, there is still room, right or wrong is entirely up to you; If the blind date is successful, and then move from the teahouse to the hotel, it is purely a rabbit without spreading an eagle.

At the age of looking for a girlfriend, the head teacher of high school introduced the younger girls from the same school to pick me up. Without exception, I came to the old teahouse in the town. Three cups of scented tea are brewed with boiling water, and the mixed fragrance of jasmine and green tea instantly permeates the whole elegant room, which makes people relaxed and happy. The teacher has a bad mind, but the schoolmate in front of me will always be a junior. After drinking three rounds of tea, I can't find the feeling of a lover for my mistress. According to the rule of covering a bowl of tea, I put the lid on the stool, got up and nodded to the teacher, paid for the tea and left.

Many years later, when my mistress got married and became a mother, when she saw me for the second time, she was still full of resentment: "I said, buddy, if you don't want to say anything, it's no use saying goodbye." Are you afraid that I will eat you? "

"No, it's not ..." I said a few nice words and finally made my junior laugh happily.

Later, I went to work in the city, and the good people introduced me to the object. When we first met, we went to the teahouse and drank the same bowl of "Three Flowers".

We talked about tea stalls and teahouses before, but now we have to talk about teahouses. Sichuan teahouse should be said to be the highest grade of teahouse, but its ancestor is still teahouse. The so-called teahouse, as its name implies, should be a shop upstairs that sells tea for a living.

Once off the ground, it is a bit condescending, and the customers in the teahouse are correspondingly different from those sitting in tea stalls and teahouses. Some teahouses sell coffee, which seems to have nothing to do with tea, but in fact it has the same effect as tea. Some teahouses regain the elegance of covering a bowl of tea and specialize in covering a bowl of tea. ......

Sichuan Teahouses are constantly changing with the development of the times, but they remain unchanged. Whether it's an open-air tea stall, a teahouse opened in a facade room, or a variety of "high-end" teahouses that spread all over urban and rural areas overnight, cups of faint Sichuan tea always exude an attractive fragrance, which Sichuanese can never resist or resist. This may be the real charm of Sichuan teahouse!