The past of the ancient city-an interesting talk about eating fish

The island has entered a one-year fishing moratorium, and various offshore seafood products are dazzling and competing to be listed. In the era of network information, the brand of "Dongshan Seafood" is well known. The seafood fish produced in Dongshan sea area is famous for its superior water quality and rich nutrition, and its seafood quality is "small and beautiful, fine and fresh". Modern people pursue "wild ecological health care products", and the seafood traditionally fished in Dongshan caters to people's needs and becomes a hot commodity for diners everywhere.

As we all know, when the ancients ate fish, the focus was not on eating, but on having fun, which was an artistic conception and good luck. The traditional custom of eating fish was formed as early as the pre-Qin period. According to research, during the Qin and Han dynasties, "eating fish without objection" has become a "rule" at the dinner table.

The Book of Rites Qulishang in the Western Han Dynasty records: "Don't gnaw at bones, don't object to fish." There is no objection to eating fish, which means not to turn it over when eating fish, because fishermen are taboo and fishing is the most taboo. The original intention of "eating fish and not rebelling" is exactly the same as "governing a big country is like cooking small fresh food", and it is also the earliest way to talk about governing the country.

Today, we will talk about the interesting things about eating fish scattered on the island.

In the early days, fishermen engaged in marine farming and made a living by bumping in the wind and waves. Most of the "dishes" for eating were made from local materials, mainly fish. Eating fish generally does not put the fish on a real plate, but directly on the chopping board. Everyone leans on the board and sits around eating fish. Everything is very simple. This plate also has an exclusive title, called "Downwind Plate". This is a rectangular red lacquer ware, about 80㎝ long and 40㎝ wide, and the edge is decorated with "water-blocking" wood strips. After dinner, the rest of the waste will be concentrated in the "downwind plate" and poured into the sea along the water potential. Slowly, the fishermen's brothers who docked in Hong Kong went home, and they also developed this eating habit. Fish is also eaten directly on the table, and it is a good omen that the fish does not turn over when eating.

I remember going to a relative's house for lunch once when I was a child. I saw an old man named "LaoTaiGong" pick up bowls and chopsticks, and bring the fish directly to the table from the earthen casserole. I think it's strange. I don't understand why there are plates but not used. Isn't this unsanitary? Just as I was about to ask a question, the old lady let out a deep cry of "eat without saying anything", which scared me to be silent for a while and swallowed my doubts. I didn't know until later that Taigong, who had been dealing with the sea all his life, was in awe of "seeking the rule of the sea people's inheritance".

The older generation engaged in fishing on the island are more concerned about some traditional taboos. There are many fishermen in the coastal areas of southern Fujian who go out to sea to fish, "sail" in South Asia and "ship" freight at sea. I am most afraid of encountering wind and waves, causing the ship to capsize and "crash". Therefore, there is a saying among the people that "it's half-life to hurry and whip the boat". Therefore, the older generation engaged in the marine industry in the early days always ate the fish above and then clipped off the fish spine, and then ate the fish below, so it was taboo to turn the fish upside down. Slowly, there is a taboo to turn the fish over.

I have also heard from the older generation that fishermen in southern Fujian should not put chopsticks on the edge of the bowl after eating on the boat. Before putting down chopsticks, they must wrap around the bowl for several weeks. This is mainly the mentality of being afraid of being stranded. Chopsticks circle the bowl mouth several times, indicating that the sailing fishing boat can safely bypass the reef shoal to avoid danger, enter and exit safely and anchor safely.

According to the fifth volume of Yanzi Chunqiu, Zeng Zaiji got a golden basin with eight scarlet letters: "Don't look back if you eat fish, don't run away." . According to the article, in Qi Jinggong's understanding, it means not to flip the fish, because you hate the fishy smell of the fish; Don't ride a bad horse when you go out, or you won't go far. Extended meaning: "eating fish does not rebel", which means that the country does not exhaust the wealth of ordinary people; "Don't ride a horse" is to remind the monarch in charge of the country not to leave a villain around.

People on the island also pay attention to the order of eating fish, not only can't "turn over", but also have opinions on the order. Generally, we eat from the fish head to the fish tail to express everything "smooth and smooth" and "head and tail" On the contrary, it is "detrimental to etiquette."

When many people eat fish together, it is also the traditional etiquette of our islanders to point their heads at distinguished people. When a plate of fish is served on the table, where the fish head is placed is also very particular. The older generation said, "Fish heads are respectful and honorable." At family dinners or daily banquets on holidays, when the host serves fish, he also intends to put the fish head in the direction of the guests with the largest generation or the highest status in the seat, so as to attract chopsticks to eat fish and drive everyone to drink.

There is a proverb about marine fish on the island: "One, two, three, four, five? ? Squid, six sharks? (Red snapper) "..." Are two tigers, three sands and four eels flying? ? "... according to the seasonal characteristics, taste, taste and shape of the fish, the names of the fish are arranged in order. Some local proverbs about fish, such as "red melon (large yellow croaker) head, plaice throat", are used to describe someone's musical image; "Eel head, over the throat"; "Loose cheeks and excessive belly" refers to the fleshy part of fish; "Red sturgeon paste, raccoon liver" is nutritious and delicious; "Eel head, bitch (snake mullet) tail", eat bony fish, where the meat is bony. ...

When I was a child, I lived in the ancient city. I once met an old woman who was a neighbor. She is very clever. She cleaned the skull of the catfish or hairtail left on the dining table with water, and soon, like a magician, she could piece together several small cranes with different shapes and dancing, which were lifelike.

The hometown of the island lives on the sea, and people with unpretentious personality eat fish and like to enjoy the freshness and fatness of fish. "Braised boiled fish" has become the "criterion" that conforms to the original flavor when cooking fish at home. Take Balang fish as an example. This common marine fish has been eaten by islanders for almost a hundred years. Now some experts say that it is rich in amino acids and is a nutritional supplement that the human body must supplement. In fact, there are many cooking methods of Balang fish, but there are only a few methods that people eat daily: boiling with soy sauce, cold salad with salt, or cooking with pickles. Speaking of the latter way of eating, the early people smiled and said, "Pickled vegetables (boiled) make waves, and the delicious ones are divided into two parts (husband)"; Correspondingly, there is a response that "Balangke (boiled) preserved vegetables are delicious and divided into (wives)". I am full of praise and ridicule for this home-cooked fish dish, because it is so delicious that I don't want to share it with others, even my lover. When consumers eat this fish soup, they often say this sentence in dialect, which is full of banter and makes people laugh.

Dongshan Island is a folk custom, and people also like to express and pin their good wishes by eating fish. I remember that day when my classmates had a dinner party and a steamed whole fish was served on the table. The host got up to divide the dishes, and with a sense of ceremony, put the fish head and tail in the bowl of a classmate who is about to "upgrade" her prospective mother-in-law. I am happy to read: eat fish head ... fishtail fork, let you quickly "become everyone" (become a mother-in-law)!

It is said that "no wine is no feast", and those of us who live by the sea believe in "no feast without fish", "three meals without fish" and "no fish without happiness". The ancient man-made word "fresh" means "fresh", and all three fish are fresh. Some people say that the word "fresh" is a combination of fish in the water and sheep on the mountain. Fresh food is beautiful. Dongshan Island is located at the junction of the East China Sea and the South China Sea, which is quite natural. The people on the island are blessed and enjoy the good taste of "fresh". There are endless anecdotes about eating fish. In today's view, although the previous "red tape" has gradually faded, fish still symbolizes people's yearning for peace and happiness, more and more year by year. ?

20 18/06/ 18 (first draft of Dragon Boat Festival)