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"Five Flavors" Wang Zengqi

Shanxi people are really jealous! A few people from Shanxi went to a restaurant in Beijing. After they sat down, before ordering, they brought over bottles of vinegar and drank three spoons of vinegar each. The guests sitting next to him stared. One year I went to Taiyuan for the festival. During the Spring Festival in other places, some good wine is served, but the oil and salt stores in Taiyuan all post a note: "Old mature vinegar is provided, one pound per household." This is a big deal for Shanxi people.

Shanxi people also like to eat pickled cabbage, especially in Yanbei. Everything is pickled, including radishes and cabbage, as well as poplar leaves and elm leaves. When someone comes to marry a girl, the mother first asks how many sauerkraut jars the family has. If there are many sauerkraut jars, it means that the family has a strong foundation.

Liaoning people love to eat pickled cabbage and white meat hot pot.

Beijingers eat mutton and pickled cabbage soup with mixed noodles.

People in Fujian and Guangxi love to eat sour bamboo shoots. Jia Pingwa and I were in Nanning and didn’t like the food in the guest house, so we ate it outside. As soon as Ping Ao walked in, he called out: "Old Friend Noodles!" "Old Friend Noodles" is made with sour bamboo shoots and shredded pork in a soup. I don't know why it's called "Old Friend Noodles."

The Dai people also like to eat sour food. Braised chicken with sour bamboo shoots is a famous dish.

People in Yanqing Mountain love to eat sour rice in summer. I made the good rice sour, mixed it with cold water from the well, and drank three bowls of it.

People say that Suzhou cuisine is sweet, but in fact Suzhou cuisine is just bland. The real sweetness is in Wuxi, where there is so much sugar in the fried eel paste! There is also a lot of sugar in the meat filling of the steamed buns, making it inedible!

Sichuan Sha Pork is steamed with large pieces of fat pork stuffed with washed sand, and Guangxi Taro Pork is steamed with large pieces of fat pork stuffed with taro paste. Both are very sweet and delicious, but I can only eat two pieces at most. .

Cantonese people love to eat sweets. There is a dessert shop owned by Cantonese people on Jinbi Road in Kunming. It sells sesame paste and mung bean paste, and students from Guangdong flock to it. "Sweet potato syrup" is a soup made from cut sweet potatoes. What's so delicious about it? A classmate from Guangdong said: "Yeah!"

It's not that Beijingers don't like sweets, but sweets were hard to come by in the past. My family once had an old nanny who was from the countryside in Zhengding. She was over 60 years old and she had a mother-in-law. Over eighty years old. Once, she was going back to her hometown to visit relatives. Before leaving, she weighed two pounds of sugar and said that her mother-in-law liked to drink sugar water.

Beijing people are very conservative. They didn’t know what bitter melon was in the past. In recent years, some people have learned to eat it, and vegetable farmers have begun to grow it. There are very good bitter melons for sale in the farmers' market. They are "fine vegetables" and are quite expensive.

Beijing people used to not eat kangkong or fungus, but in recent years some people like to eat it.

Beijingers are open to taste!

Beijingers used to eat Chinese cabbage, which shows that Chinese cabbageism can be defeated.

Beijing people eat endive in early spring. Endive is divided into sweet endive and bitter endive, and bitter endive is quite bitter.

There was a young actress from Guizhou who came to our troupe to study acting. Her mother sent her a package of something from afar. It was "Zhe'ergen", or "Zergen", which means fishy fish. Grass. She let me taste a few. What is this? It's bitter, but it doesn't matter. It has a strong smell of raw fish, which is really overwhelming!

The troupe has a cadre who writes subtitles and sometimes does miscellaneous tasks. This person is an expert in eating spicy food. He skips vegetables for lunch every day and eats chili peppers with his rice. He tried his best to get and eat all kinds of peppers from all over the country and from ethnic minorities. When the troupe went to Shanghai to perform, he helped with the catering. It was a good time and there would be no shortage of chili peppers. He thought it was hard to buy hot peppers in Shanghai, but the next day he found a shop specializing in all kinds of hot peppers. Some Shanghainese people can tolerate spicy food.

We learned how to eat spicy food in Kunming. We used to cook green chili peppers on the fire with several Guizhou classmates and dip them in salt water to drink wine. We have eaten so many chili peppers in our lives, what about Chaotian pepper? , wild sansho pepper, not to mention. The hottest chili I ever had was in Vietnam. In 1947, I transferred from Vietnam to Shanghai and ate beef noodles on the streets of Haiphong. The beef is extremely tender, the soup is extremely fresh, and the chili peppers are extremely spicy. A bowl of noodle soup with three or four shreds of chili peppers will be too spicy. The color of this chili pepper is orange. In northern Sichuan, I heard that there is a kind of chili pepper that cannot be eaten by itself. A thread is hung on the stove, the soup is done, and the chili peppers are rinsed in the soup, and it becomes extremely spicy. The Wa people in Yunnan have a kind of chili pepper called "shabu shabu spicy", which is probably comparable to the chili peppers hung on the stove in northern Sichuan.

Sichuan cannot be said to be the spiciest province.

The characteristic of Sichuan cuisine is that the noodles are spicy and numb, with lots of Sichuan peppercorns. There are three words written in black on the wall of a small noodle shop in Sichuan: Malatang. Mapo tofu, stir-fried shredded beef, and Bangbang chicken are all delicious without Sichuan peppercorns. The peppercorns must be Sichuan peppercorns, which must be crushed and put in at the end after the dishes are ready.

Zhou Zuoren said that his hometown eats extremely salty pickles and extremely salty salted fish all year round. People in eastern Zhejiang indeed eat very salty food. A classmate, who is from Taizhou, went to the shop When eating steamed buns, break them open and pour soy sauce into them. The saltiness of the taste is related to the region. Beijingers say that the south is sweet, the north is salty, the east is spicy, and the west is sour, which is generally good. Hebei and Northeast China are more populous, and Fujian’s cuisine is more bland. But this is also related to personal personality and habits. Hubei food is not salty, but Mr. Wen Yiduo thinks that Yunnan Mengzi food is too bland.

Chinese people used to be very particular about eating salt, such as peach blossom salt, crystal salt, "Wu salt is better than snow", but now the whole country eats refined salt. Only Sichuan people still insist on using well salt produced in Zigong for making pickles.

I don’t know any other country in the world where people like to eat bad food.

Past Shanghai. Both Fujing and Hankou sell fried stinky dried tofu. The stinky tofu in the Fire Palace in Changsha became famous because a big shot often ate it when he was young. The big shot later went to eat it and said: "The stinky tofu in the Fire Palace is still delicious." During the "Cultural Revolution", two lines of large characters appeared on the screen wall of the Fire Palace:

Top instructions:

The stinky tofu in the Fire Palace is still delicious.

One of our comrades went to Nanjing on a business trip. His lover was from Nanjing and asked him to order some stinky tofu. He tried everything possible, but he actually did it. The band on the train sparked an outcry from people in a carriage.

In addition to stinky dried tofu, gluten and fenugreek (thousands of pieces) can all be stinky. Lettuce, winter melon, and cowpeas among vegetables can all be smelly. The old roots of winter bamboo shoots cannot be chewed, so cut them off and throw them into the smelly jar. ——Many people in our area have a stinky jar, a jar of "stinky stew". The juice squeezed from pickled mustard greens is left for a few days to become "stinky stew". The most special stinky thing is the stinky amaranth stalk. When the amaranth grows old, the main stem can be as thick as a thumb, three or four feet high, cut into small sections about two inches, and put into the stink jar. After the stink is ripe, the outer skin will be hard and the inner core will be like jelly. Hold one end and inhale, and the meat will be in your mouth. This is a perfect accompaniment to porridge. We call it "Amaranth Straw", and people in Hunan call it "Amaranth Gu" because it makes a "goo" sound when sucked.

What Beijingers call stinky tofu refers to stinky fermented bean curd. In the past, hawkers sold it along the streets:

"Stinky tofu, soybean curd, Wang Zhihe's stinky tofu."

Just stick stinky tofu on pancakes and cook a pot of shrimp skin and cabbage soup. meal! Nowadays, Wang Zhihe's stinky tofu is packaged in large square glass bottles, which is very inconvenient. A bottle costs 100 yuan and takes a long time to finish. It is also very expensive and has become a luxury product. I really hope this kind of packaging can be improved, and 5 pieces in one container is enough.

The smelliest "cheese" (cheese) I have ever eaten in the United States. Most foreigners smell it and hide their noses. To me, it is really nothing, far worse than stinky tofu.

What’s more, the Chinese people’s tastes are the most complex in the world.

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