How to prune potted grapes and pruning techniques of potted grapes

Because of the lack of nutrition, potted grapes need to take a series of measures in the process of grape growth, such as germination, coring, thinning flowers, thinning fruits, removing vines, picking secondary branches, etc., to meet the nutritional needs of plants. Let's take a look at the pruning techniques of potted grapes:

Wipe the bud and remove the new bud.

In spring, the winter buds of grapes have expanded, so you should wipe off those untimely and too dense fine buds by hand before germination (Figure 1). When the inflorescence appears, wipe the bud again. At this time, the bud has been opened, and the presence or absence of the flower spike and the strength of the branch can be distinguished. Leave 2 ~ 3 buds on the short branches, 3 ~ 4 buds on the long branches, and smooth the other buds. The buds that grow from the roots should also be wiped off. Let it grow, it will consume a lot of nutrients and affect the growth of other branches and vines. If there are buds exposed, wipe them off immediately.

Remove tendrils

Tendrils are grasping hands when climbing other things, supporting vines to grow upward. Artificially cultivated grapes can climb at will without the help of tendrils. The growth and development of tendrils will also consume nutrients, so they should also be removed.

Pick a heart

Picking new shoots not only has great influence on flowering and fruit setting, but also plays an important role in promoting the formation of flower buds. On the other hand, potted grapes should be mainly short, not too high, which also plays a role in inhibiting the development of grapes to high places. The best time for core picking with inflorescence shoots is 3 ~ 7 days before flowering. When the leaf 15 is about, 7 ~ 8 leaves are left to pick the core, so that the nutrients turn to the inflorescence to promote flowering. After the new shoots are cored, the leaves on the branches and vines become larger, and the summer buds between the axils develop into secondary buds within 10 ~ 15 days, and the winter buds begin to swell, which is beneficial to the formation of flower buds (Figure 2).

Secondary tip treatment

After the new branches are cored, secondary branches will grow, with 4 ~ 5 leaves on the top secondary branches and 1 ~ 2 leaves on the rest secondary branches. After the core removal of the secondary buds, secondary buds and tertiary buds will grow, and then the core removal will be repeated in the same way, so that the branches and vines will continue to grow abundantly (Figure 3).

It is better to sparse the ear one week before flowering and remove the ear at the end of flowering, and the effect of premature thinning is not good. Remove the auxiliary ear first, then 4 ~ 5 supporting shafts at the base of the ear, and then remove the ear of 1/5 ~ 1/4. When there are too many spikes in the whole plant, 2 spikes are left in the strong branch, 2 spikes are left in the weak branch and 1 spike is left in the middle branch (Figure 4).

Thinning ears and fruits

After the grapes bloom and set fruit, the ears that are too small, crowded and deformed are removed, which is called ear thinning. Removing the underdeveloped or crowded fruit grains in the ear without expansion space is called fruit thinning (Figure 5).

Grapes should be cut in winter after defoliation in winter until March of the following year, before the juice flows. Premature pruning will relieve the hibernation of grapes, and the juice will start to flow after waking up. If pruned, it will cause bleeding, lose nutrition and weaken plants. Winter pruning is mainly thinning, cutting and regeneration (Figure 6).

delete

Thinning, also called thinning, is to cut off branches that are too dense and too thin. Weak branches have longer internodes. The short internodes of well-growing branches are enlarged and the node position is raised. The buds are plump and oblate, and the branches are round (Figure 7).

short cut

In order to make the aboveground and underground parts of potted grapes consistent, the plant shape should not be too large or too high, and the excessively long grape branches should be cut short every winter. When pruning a grape, you should consider the length of each branch and be able to withstand the light better. Generally, long branches leave 6 ~ 10 buds, middle branches leave 4 ~ 6 buds and short branches leave 3 buds.

Regeneration of old branches

Grapevine is easy to age, and the fruit yield of aged grape vine is low. It is necessary to replace the old branches with new vines, so that the bearing mother branches are often in a state of vigorous vitality.

Results the update of branch group was most common with double branches. The operation method is to cut the fruiting mother branch to be replaced in winter, and leave two buds on the adjacent node below it. In spring, the two buds grow into new branches, and then in winter, the upper branch serves as the fruiting mother branch, the lower branch serves as the reserved branch, and the original old branch is cut off at the base of the vine. Another method is single branch regeneration, and only one fruiting mother branch is left when pruning in winter. After budding in the second year, the new shoots with good lower part are selected and cultivated as fruiting mother branches, and all the new shoots on the upper part are cut off in winter (Figure 8).