Miao people are also divided into young seedlings and white seedlings?

Among all ethnic groups in Guizhou, Miao people have the most abundant headdresses and costumes, up to dozens or even hundreds. This is because the Miao nationality has a large population, many branches and a wide spread, and the headdresses and costumes of different people are quite different. During the Qianlong period of the Qing Dynasty, a tribute map of the Qing Dynasty was compiled. The eighth volume is the headdresses and costumes of all ethnic groups in Guizhou, almost half of which are Miao people, and so is the Hundred Miao Map. In view of the historical conditions at that time, it is impossible for people to have a subject.

Ethnic identification can only be distinguished by the most intuitive headdress and clothing, so it is called "red seedling", "black seedling", "seedling" and "flower seedling". In order to better understand the headdresses and costumes of Miao people in history, we might as well copy the original books here to study their development and changes. It's a book. Guiyang and Dading are "flower seedlings" called "big heads and small flowers". Clothes are dyed by drawing flowers on cloth with wax, and the dyed patterns are like brocade. I have no clothes, so I have to surrender myself and stick to my body. Men wrap their heads in green cloth, and women braid their hair in ponytails, as big as buckets, and gather in wooden combs "; Tongren House is a "red seedling" and a "male vertebral bun, about HongLing; Women wear purple hats, short skirts and crimson skirts, and the edges are like a ribbon. "Li is a" black seedling "equally," short and black clothes, long hairpin for women, big rings hanging down, and colorful skirts are all enough "; "White Miao" in Guiding, Longli, Qianxi and other places, "men have barefoot heads and women have long hair, white clothes and short knees"; Xiuwen, Zhenning and other places are "young crops". " His clothes are still green, and he must bring a knife and crossbow when he goes in and out. The woman covered her head with green cloth, decorated with beads, and her skirt was short "; Zhu Gui, Longli and other places are "East Miao", with "hair tied with flower towels and short clothes reaching to the knees". Women wear flower shawls and short skirts "Ping Yue, Qing Ping's West Miao, Clothes are still green, and Men and Women Know Tsing Yi Ribbon". Pingyao, Ping Huang and other places are "small seedlings", "clothes are still green, left, and women workers are good at dyeing textiles ... Those who live on rotten earth dams in Chen Meng are dressed in wooden leaves and wear short skirts"; The "Jiugu Miao" in Qingping County, "the customs and costumes of men and women are the same as those of the black Miao, but they are particularly fierce. They use armor as official clothes and wrap them in iron below the knee "; Guiding county "cut seedlings flat", "men wear grass clothes and women wear long skirts"; Ding Fanfu's "Gu Linmiao", "Men and women have short sleeves ... women wear blue cloth and spin diligently, and their cloth is the most refined, which is called Gu Linmiao"; Li Ping's "Luohan Miao" "The clothes are still black. When the man is not in the room, put the feathers on his head ... short clothes. ..... The woman sent it out, put it in a wooden comb and washed it with water for a few days. Make chain earrings with gold and silver, tie the back with double straps, and wear a long skirt, or stop a long skirt and hang an embroidered belt, which is called the tail "; Duyun, Pingyue and other places are "purple-blue seedlings." Their clothes are still black, and both men and women are tied with black cloth. Men wear real armor, with swords and guns "; Guang Shun "Kemenggu sheep seedlings", "male Tsing Yi, vertebral bun, female dish bun, short skirt". In fact, whether it is the tribute map or the Hundred Miao map in the Qing Dynasty, the records are very rough and there are many omissions, only 1 12. If we further consult other historical books and local chronicles, we will have more information, from which we can roughly see the main characteristics of Miao headdresses and costumes.

As far as hairstyles are concerned, Huainan Su said, "Three Miao? ? First, "according to a brief history of Miao nationality, the so-called"? ? "First of all" refers to mixed brown hair, hemp, ponytail and so on. Stick it in your hair and tie it to your head, just like wearing a big hat on your head. What does the above quote mean "a woman's mane and tail are mixed in her hair"? As big as a bucket "belongs to this category. But this is not the only model. For example, another hairstyle mentioned in Xi Man Cong Xiao: "No shawl, all the hair is fist, but Miao is different, the sun is golden, and the yellow cat has its own head." This is probably a kind of haircut, the so-called "patriarch", not only "men are naked", but also women in some places have "patriarchs". However, in the local chronicles of Ming and Qing Dynasties, the most common one is the "cone bun", that is, the hair is coiled on the top of the head like a cone, which is called "pan bun", "wan bun" or "wan bun". If the comb, long hairpin, horn, feather, pheasant tail, silver horn, silver crown, green cloth covered on the head and ribbon tied on the head are removed, their hairstyles basically belong to the same type. Of course, there are many styles, such as "high bun tie", "double bun tie" and "like the head of an oriental". From this point of view, although the headdress of Miao nationality is varied, in addition to headdress and jewelry, there are mainly "? ? There are three kinds: head, branch and cone bun, and cone bun is the most common.

There is not much difference between men and women in Miao costumes, which is nothing more than the difference between right-breasted shirts, large-breasted shirts and double-breasted shirts. Trousers are big and small, long and short, with headgear on their heads and leggings on their feet. The biggest difference is women's clothes, especially the clothes of young women can best reflect their own characteristics. Generally speaking, there are three main types. The most basic and national feature is to wear a pleated skirt, followed by trousers with large rows of buttons, and then to wear Hanfu. The latter two appeared in the process of evolution. Different from the custom of "Baiyue" ethnic group wearing "tube skirt", Miao ethnic group's skirt basically belongs to a kind of "pleated skirt", but there are many styles that other ethnic groups can't match, with different colors, patterns, lengths and textures. The tone seems to be the most striking. The so-called "red seedlings", "white seedlings", "green seedlings", "black seedlings" and "flower seedlings" in history books are nothing more than tones. Decorative patterns are also very eye-catching, some are wax paintings, some are embroidery, some are embroidery, and some are weaving. The distinction between "big flower seedlings" and "small flower seedlings" is probably based on decorative patterns. There are also obvious differences in the length of skirts, some reaching the instep, some reaching only the calf, and some miniskirts above the knee. The so-called "long skirt seedlings" and "short skirt seedlings" are probably distinguished accordingly. As for the tops with skirts, most of them are short coats, but the styles are different, mainly as follows: one is the so-called "through-the-head coat" worn from head to bottom, with collar holes and no sleeves; One is a collarless and buttonless shirt, which crosses the chest left and right, and wears a big sleeve shirt inside; The other is a waist-tied right back garment or a double-breasted garment; In addition, there are "back cards" and "shawls". Miao women in northeast Guizhou used to wear pleated skirts, but since the Qing Dynasty, they have gradually changed to trousers and big breasts, with lace or "railings" on skirts and trousers. Miao people in Guiyang, Luodian and Duyun generally belong to this type. As for those who wear Hanfu, I don't need to say it here. It is worth noting that in the same area, even in neighboring villages, their costumes will not be mixed with each other. For example, long skirts, short skirts and miniskirts coexist in southeastern Guizhou, and flowers and small flowers coexist in northern Guizhou. On the other hand, Miao people, who used to be characterized by certain costumes, often retained their original traditions after moving to other places. For example, some Miao people who moved from southeastern Guizhou to southwestern Guizhou have basically the same costumes as those in southeastern Guizhou.

Apart from hairstyle and clothing, jewelry also has many differences, including ornaments worn on the head, neck, chest, waist and limbs (mainly hands). At first, Miao ancestors mostly used natural objects as decorations, showing a rough and simple aesthetic feeling. For example, some "white chicken feathers in the bun", some "white chicken tails or golden pheasant tails in the male bun", some "porcupine arrows", some "jewelry decorated with navy white beads" or "five-colored medicinal beads", and even replaced with coix seed, and some "bamboo tubes are obliquely inserted three inches. Later, although there was a labor force

As decoration, the wooden hairpin and comb made by Jianhe Miao headdress still maintain its primitive and quaint style. About the Ming and Qing Dynasties, Miao people widely used silver ornaments, and made great progress, with a wide variety and exquisite production, which is rare in China. The silver ornaments worn by Miao people all over the country are colorful. For example, women in Datang of Leishan put three silver flowers in their heads, women in Longli put a string of silver bubbles of different sizes behind a green handkerchief, and Miao girls in Ziyun arranged five conical silver ornaments on their heads. Miao women in Leishan Qiaogang wear hats made of silver flowers, silver chains and silver bells, Miao women in Shidongkou of Taijiang wear gorgeous silver crowns, and Miao girls in Danzhai wear silver ornaments when they dress up. These are just general remarks. In fact, there are several styles and combinations of necklaces, necklaces, earrings, bracelets, silver flowers, silver bubbles, silver horns, silver crowns, silver hats and silver clothing pieces, which will be discussed in detail in the chapter on arts and crafts, and will be omitted here. Different headdresses, costumes and jewelry are combined together, and Miao costumes are naturally colorful and dazzling.

However, in any case, the records in the literature are very limited. If we investigate deeply, the actual differences are far more than these. After a lot of investigations by An, Jiang Zhiyi and Yu Xinzhi, there is a section devoted to the Miao costume art in the book Guizhou Minority Folk Art, which is quite detailed. According to Miao costume style and Miao dialect, it can be divided into five categories: Xiangxi, Qiandong, Zhongnan, Sichuan-Guizhou and Yunnan-Qiong. Except Hainan I, the other four categories are distributed in Guizhou, and each category is subdivided into several models. The book not only points out the differences of various features and patterns, but also points out several typical examples, such as: Taijiang women's dress, which is famous for its embroidery, and Guiyang women's dress, which is prominent for its flower picking; Women's wear in Weining, which is mainly wool, women's wear in Danzhai, Anshun, Qianxi, Zhijin and Ping Huang, women's wear in Zhenfeng and Anlong, which are famous for their weaving, and women's wear in Leishan, Taijiang, Ping Huang and Kaili, which have the most silver ornaments.

The "Qiandong" Miao costume of Taijiang Horn Silver Jewelry is mainly distributed in Qiandongnan Miao and Dong Autonomous Prefecture, which is the most distinctive and complicated type of Miao costume. Generally speaking, this type is characterized by self-woven homespun as the clothing material, and the basic forms of clothing are collared tops and pleated skirts. The coat is embroidered and the silver ornaments are particularly rich. There are Taijiang Tunnel, Taijiang Fanpai, Taijiang Arch, Taijiang Rock Slab, Taijiang Wujiao, Taijiang Wuhe, Jianhe Hot Spring, Leishan Xijiang, Leishan Bridge Hong Kong Style, Kaili Zhouxi Style, Kaili Tang Kai Style, Ping Huang Gulong Style, Danzhai Mopai Style, Danzhai Longquan Style, Congjiang Basha Style, etc. Because Zhenfeng Miao people moved from Ping Huang, their costumes also belong here. It is not difficult to see that the "Camus Hinterland" retains the most traditions and is particularly rich in style. Taijiang has six styles, followed by Leishan, Danzhai and Kaili. The clothes in Taijiang Cave are typical. It is famous for its embroidery and silver ornaments, which can quite reflect the characteristics of "Qiandong style". Women tie a bun on it, and the bun is covered with self-woven red, blue and white flowers. There is a circle of silver flowers around the handkerchief. A silver crown about 30 cm high is inserted in the bun, and various silver flowers and silver hairpin are inserted on both sides of the crown. Put a silver comb behind the bun, wear four or five silver necklaces, two or three silver necklaces, and wear a semicircular silver collar on the chest. The back, front swing, shoulders and shoulders of a coat. Embroidery is also excellent. Embroidery on the outside of the sleeve is the most dazzling part of the whole body. The collar and shoulders are equipped with wide embroidered edges. Embroidery patterns are mostly dragons, phoenixes, cows, figures and fish, and the colors are red, crimson or purple. They wear blue and white pleated skirts and embroidered shoes with their feet up. The perfect combination of silver ornaments and embroidery constitutes the characteristics of Shidong clothing.

Miao people welcome guests with silver, but the Taijiang digging style is only one kind of "Qiandong style" after all, and other types have their own characteristics, showing uniqueness from different aspects. Women of Miao nationality in Taijiang also wear silver crowns, but the skirt length is not a cave dwelling like 70 cm below the knee, but a short skirt only six or seven cm below the knee, with a green cloth waist, a big skirt and long sleeves without collar. The archway of Taijiangtai is different, and the clothes are all woven by themselves.

Made of self-dyed "Zanthoxylum bungeanum cloth", embroidered with unique crepe embroidery and petal embroidery, it has a sense of relief, and embroidered with green satin or white cloth to grow into a square waist. Taijiang rock plate has two characteristics; First, there is a horizontal silver flower on the bun, and a row of golden pheasants stands high on the flower; Second, the skirt is ultra-short pleated, with 30 to 40 layers of pleats, and a waist with a black and white woven pattern is covered outside. Taijiang witch's feet are relatively simple, with a big bun on the top, and then a purple-green cloth is wrapped around her forehead from back to front, and a towel is put on her shoulders and back to keep out the wind. Five Rivers in Taijiang and Jianhe Hot Springs are basically the same style, with a circle of honeysuckle on the head and a golden pheasant in the bun. The sleeve flower is composed of six square weave patterns, with patterns on two shoulders, an inverted "needle" shape on the back and two-thirds of the waist. The characteristic of Leishan river wind is the most prominent silver corner, and another characteristic is that the skirt wears a floral skirt, which consists of 22 embroidered belts. The most prominent Hong Kong style of Leishan Bridge is the miniskirt, which is only 20 cm long and has fine and thick folds, making the hip circumference particularly large. The front of the skirt is a knee-high square waist, and the back is a wide pleated square satin, wearing blue leggings. Kelly's Zhou Xi hairstyle is different. The front of the bun is made into a wavy hat brim hairstyle, which is high on the right and low on the left and shiny. Kaili Tang Kai style is famous for its numerous large silver collars. It wears four kinds of collars, the smallest is round, the second is round with curly flowers, the third is square with curly flowers, and the fourth is the largest with a width of 40 cm. There are neatly arranged silver flowers and bells hanging at the lower end, and a thick necklace is hung. Ping Huang Gulong style silver hat is the most distinctive. This hat consists of four layers of silver flowers. Exquisitely carved and exquisitely carved, it makes people see things in a blur. The clothing style of Zhenfeng style is the same as that of Ping Huang, but the color of the clothes, regardless of men, women and children, is based on black, and the embroidery is simple and generous. The ink heads of Danzhai School wear a silver crown with a bunch of white chicken feathers on the top, and the batik sleeves used are all traditional "whirlpool" patterns. Longquan style in Danzhai is a loquat lapel coat, blue, with a small collar and buttons, only 35 cm long, and does not cover the abdomen. Unusual style. From Jiang Basha style, the clothes are short to the stomach, tight, with slender sleeves, an inverted triangle embroidered belly wrapped under the abdomen, and blue pants. The most distinctive feature of Rongjiang Pingyong style is "Feather Skirt", which is of moderate length and fine pleats. Vertical batik and green cloth alternate with each other. Each pattern is divided into three horizontal sections, with red, yellow or red and blue alternate between them. Two white feather skirts are tied at the lower end of each flower, hence the name "Feather Skirt".

Guiyang Huaxi Miao costumes refer to the Miao costumes of Guiyang, Longli, Guiding, Qingzhen, Pingba, Anshun, Changshun and Anlong. It has the characteristics of eastern and western clothing, and women wear blue pleated skirts or batik skirts on their tops. According to the preliminary investigation, there are Guiyang Huaxi Style, Guiyang-Longli Style, Longli Style, Guiding Guidong Style, Guiding Yunwushan Style, Qing (town) Pingba Style, An (shun) Qing (town) Style, Anshun Pass Style and Anlong Lugou Style. Guiyang Huaxi style can be regarded as a typical example. A woman tied her hair behind her head with a colorful ribbon, and after bun, she inserted a row of silver hairpin obliquely forward, with more than ten pieces, which looked like chopsticks. The topcoat is a topcoat with short front and long back. Because its neckline is inlaid with white cloth edges and looks like a flag, it is named "flag suit". The front and back of the garment piece are not sewn, and the sleeves are only connected with the upper part of the garment shoulder. Cross embroidered belt on the chest, blue pleated skirt, embroidered waist to instep. The belt is also embroidered, with a row of white beads hanging at the lower end, three sets of silver chains and bells tied at the upper end, and embroidered leggings wrapped on the feet. The whole dress is characterized by embroidery. In Guiyang Miao people adjacent to Longli, Guiding and Huishui, women tied their hair in a bun at the top and shaved off the lower end of the hairline, and wrapped their heads with several pieces of green cloth to form a huge baotou. The front looks like an olive, and the top is a circle with roses and light blue silk handkerchiefs inside. Longli-style "white skirt Miao" is another style, wearing a white shirt inside and a light blue large-breasted right-back shirt outside. The clothes are wide, the cuffs are below the wrist, and an embroidered vest is worn with a short pleated skirt. The upper part of the skirt is blue and the lower part is white. The characteristic of Wuyunshan style in Guiding is that girls like to shave their hair all around, tie the long hair on the top of their heads into a bun, and then wrap it in long strips of red, blue, white and black to form a big disc-shaped baotou. The outermost layer is black, and the two ends of the handkerchief are decorated with white silver ornaments of the Miao nationality in Wangmo, Guizhou, exposing the two ends of the handkerchief as butterflies. The Miao people in Pingba, Qingzhen and Changshun are also covered with blue cloth on the inner layer and black and white cloth on the outer layer, forming a big circle. The coat has a big chest and a right lapel, a long collar, a wide belt around the waist, rows of whiskers with lace and rose red at both ends, blue trousers, a collar, a silver lock and a row of silver bells. A young green dress, with at least two embroidered handkerchief heads for women and more than ten embroidered handkerchief heads, is cylindrical. Wrap the handkerchief from front to back with three red embroidered belts and tie it at the back, while the two corners of the handkerchief are tilted up and wear a big-collar double-breasted dress. The middle of the back is decorated with a rose pattern on a black background, and the top is connected with multiple layers of embroidered clothes in turn, commonly known as "back fan skirt" or "dress skirt". The headdress of Anshun Guan Miao girl is special, tied at the front top, braided into a single braid and bent into a bow shape. Then use tough bark to make a bridge-shaped hair rack board, which is covered with braids. The hair rack board and braids are fixed with a long silver hairpin. At the same time, the embroidered scarf wrapped on the hair rack board is connected with the embroidered towel wrapped on the forehead. The dress of Anlong Lugoufeng women is a "flag suit", with a left neckline and a right neckline. The collar of underwear is turned outwards, and two white edges intersect at the back of the chest, like a flag with a green cloth skirt on its shoulders, but its head is like a person.

"Sichuan-Guizhou-Yunnan type" is mainly distributed in Bijie area and Liupanshui city of Guizhou, and some are scattered in Anshun area and Guiyang city. Because this type has many similarities with Sichuan and Yunnan, it is commensurate with "Sichuan, Guizhou and Yunnan". This kind of dress is light in color, and the skirts are mostly embroidered with batik cloth, with less silver ornaments, such as six-branch shuttle, six-branch shuttle, Bijie, Bijie swallow, An (Shun) Pu (Ding), Pu-ding, Zhenning, Anlong Puping, Guiyang Wudang and Wangmo. Miao costumes in Suojia Township, Liuzhi Special Zone, regardless of men and women, still retain the traditional style and look primitive and simple. The woman's hairstyle is very special. A wig weighing about two kilograms is tied into a "∞"-shaped bun, lying across her head, and the width is far beyond her shoulders, which is very strange. To comb this hairstyle, you must first put a wooden comb about 65cm long on the back of your head, support a heavy wig on the wooden comb, and then tie the bun to the wooden comb with a white felt belt. This is the so-called "wearing horns". Only with this sign can you participate in social activities, which shows that you have grown up. On the third floor of the coat, besides two shirts, I also wore a batik double-breasted collarless tights. The sleeves are small, with the front at the waist and the back at the heel. The chest, back and sleeves are decorated with batik patterns. Wearing a pleated long skirt and a waist made of wool all year round, it has a unique shape, with leggings cut from wool felt wrapped around the legs, and embroidered shoes shaped like straw sandals. Bao Manqingpa made several rounds, wearing a monk's collar and tights, pleated skirt pants, a wide lantern shape and flowers around his waist. It is said that the more flowers, the more women love them. Six-branch style, wearing hundreds of pheasant tail feathers, wearing a white coat, wearing a black and white checkered belt at the waist, wearing a wide and thick vest, mainly yellow and vermilion, with a small amount of black and white at intervals, and embroidered patterns as geometric figures. There are two styles of Bijie, one is the "Little Flower Miao" costumes of Hezhang, Nayong and Shuicheng, and the other is the "Mukammiao" costumes of Bijie and generosity. The girl's hairstyle is a braided bun wrapped with adulterated hair and red and yellow wool. The top is a buttonless tight top with a red and yellow woven shawl, and the upper and lower sections are pleated skirts. Bijie swallow's mouth shape, the woman wraps her head with red wool and wraps her long hair mixed with black wool. They are wearing a white shawl with geometric patterns on it and several pleated skirts below. The upper part of the skirt is blue, the lower part is white, blue and gray stripes, the lower part of the waist is pleated, and the upper part is decorated with a pattern. Anpu women's hair style is quite distinctive, with only a few wigs, a red crescent-shaped wooden comb and a bun on the top. There are several thin silver chains around the bun, and the square silver pieces and silver bells at one end of the silver chain hang down behind their heads. Puding Yongtian headdress is unique, with long hair braided, folded with a long blue handkerchief, wound into a large disc shape, and surrounded by tassels and whiskers. Women's hairstyles in Zhenning Longjiang are very special. A piece of red bamboo with half a wooden comb at both ends, one end is fixed in the bun and the other end is hung on the left side of the head 70cm. Then the long hair is divided into three strands, which are respectively wound on bamboo pieces to form a long horn-shaped fluffy hairstyle. An Long Pu Ping blouse, two front lapels cross the chest from left to right, the front lapels reach the instep, the back lapels are longer than the hips, and the sides under the ribs are slit. The collar and two front lapels are dark red and white woven lace, and the front lapels are horizontal parts of five fine geometric batiks separated by woven lace. The sleeves are also divided into three sections, black waist and batik pleated skirt. Wudang style in Guiyang, when a woman dresses up, a wooden crescent-shaped corner is inserted horizontally on her head, and long hair and wig are wound around the corner as a headdress. The coat is a gown with a body, the collar is folded into two or three layers, and the sleeves are like two layers of clothes, wearing batik pleated skirts, and some wear several skirts to form a skirt that spreads outward. Wang Mo's Wang Le-style dress, with a green handkerchief wrapped on the top of her hair, five conical silver bubbles on the handkerchief, a thin chain and a silver bell hanging on the bubbles, a white double-breasted dress, a red and yellow geometric tag, a batik pleated skirt and a long waist of green cloth. The men's wear of "Dahuamiao" in Weining is more distinctive. The head is wrapped in cloth, wearing a linen gown, and wearing a shawl made of wool with geometric figures on it. The one at the back is special. It is a palindrome back card with four tapes.

There are not many "Xiangxi-style" costumes in Guizhou, which are mainly distributed in Songtao and northeastern Guizhou, and the other part is in Qinglong and Puding. This part of the Miao people, because of their long-term contact with the Han nationality, has been greatly influenced by Chinese culture. Women have stopped wearing skirts and put on collarless big-breasted tops and wide-leg pants. The head handkerchief is cylindrical above their heads, and only the pine peach style and the fine (long) general (fixed) style are seen. Pine peach style can best reflect these characteristics, and the head is covered with small blue and white squares for several laps, which is as long as 33 cm. Wear thin earrings, pendulous trapezoidal silver pieces and four or five thin silver chains. The coat has big breasts and wide sleeves, with dark blue cloth edges around the sleeves, a thin blue ribbon in the middle and lace cuffs. Wearing a bust, it has a rounded triangle on the top, a triangular blue satin in the middle, and a moire on the upper corner. Then several bright lotus flowers are embroidered on the blue satin, and two rows of white flowers are embedded on the upper edge, which is particularly eye-catching. Wearing Yindan's blue trousers, the trouser legs are very wide, with lace below the knee, blue cloth under the lace and sparse flowers embroidered. Qingpu style is similar to Songtao style, but the girl's hair style is single braid, wrapped in a long white handkerchief, and the braid is wrapped around the handkerchief from back to front, while after marriage, it is tied into a cone at the top, covered with a green handkerchief, and the ends of the handkerchief hang down behind her head.

From the above, we can roughly see some characteristics and styles of Miao costumes. Its greatest feature is diversity. It should be said that the above mentioned is only a prominent part, and there are still many forms that have not been mentioned. Nevertheless, homosexuality still exists, such as "cone bun" as the main headdress, "pleated skirt" as the main dress and silver jewelry as the main jewelry.