Diary of Tour Ning Ancient Pagoda

I have never been to Ninggu Pagoda, but I have vaguely seen its shadow in books.

Ninggu Pagoda is located in the frozen Northeast for thousands of miles. At first glance, the place name is very simple and poetic. The imaginary Ninggu Pagoda must be an old historical relic with a few jackdaws chattering on the top of the tower, a few wind clasps jingling on the eaves of the tower, and standing lonely in the sunset; it must be like my hometown. It is the same as the Kuifeng Pagoda: the almost collapsed tower body, weathered and cracked stone cracks, the neem branches and withered yellow fern leaves sticking out from the stone cracks are swaying in the late wind; birds are noisy during the day, and bats appear at night. .....However, imagination is imagination, and a search of the information brings little interest: It turns out that Ninggu Pagoda is just a place name that represents a number. (In Manchu, "Ninggu" means "six" and "ta" means "six". "One" means "six" in total) There is actually no tower to be found.

More than 300 years ago, the cold and distant Ninggu Pagoda was a barbaric place where emperors of all dynasties exiled their officials and dissidents. The majestic imperial city is dominated by the power of heaven. Under the stone steps of Danqi, after the relegated officials bowed and kowtowed three times and kowtowed in gratitude to the imperial edict of "Exiling Ninggu Pagoda", they took heavy and lost steps and walked step by step towards the end of their lives. Carrying wooden shackles, carrying grievances and humiliations, the sound of clanking iron chains could be heard along the way. After thousands of miles of hard journey and suffering, only half of those exiled officials with disheveled hair and haggard faces made it alive to the vast snowfield where the north wind howled. , go and circle and write their final moments in life.

Although I have never been to Ninggu Pagoda, I have been to Magan Mountain, and once in the cold winter when there was wind and snow. Maganshan was a labor camp for reformed rightists in Guizhou Province in the 1950s. Ninggu Pagoda is in the northeast of China, and Magan Mountain is in the southwest of China. They are thousands of miles apart from the south to the north, but they have the same destination by different routes. Ninggu Pagoda is famous far and wide, while Magan Mountain is unknown. I hope people in the world will remember this nice, little-known place name through this article - the state-owned Maganshan Pastoral Reclamation Farm in Dafang County. May it leave its name in history and be known to future generations.

The Maganshan Pastoral Reclamation Ground is located at the foot of Jigong Mountain in Wumeng Yumai in western Guizhou. The terrain is open, windy and foggy, and it is the only place to pass to the world-famous Baili Rhododendron. It was originally a small Xinjiang fine-wool sheep breeding farm under the Dafang County Agriculture and Forestry Bureau. It raised dozens of York pigs and Dutch cattle and planted dozens of acres of green fodder grass and alfalfa. There are several rows of pig houses, sheep pens, and cowsheds built on the empty slopes, and several agricultural and industrial dormitories are dotted among them. There are often flocks of white-winged crows and cowbirds on the roof.

In the late autumn and early winter of 1957, the always deserted Magan Mountain suddenly became lively. All kinds of old cars brought batches of gray criminals from all over the province to gather here. There were officials and literati in the taciturn team, all of whom were men. Literati ranged from writers and professors to primary school teachers, as well as social elites and celebrities. Among them are the editor-in-chief of Guizhou Daily, the deputy director of Xinhua News Agency’s Guizhou Branch, the vice-president of the Guizhou Branch of the Jiusan Society, the vice-president of the Guizhou Agricultural College, a professor of the Chinese Department of Guizhou University, and the secretary, deputy governor, and state party committee of Qiandongnan Miao Autonomous Prefecture. The Secretary-General and No. 100 people. After putting on the hat of rightists, this group of outcasts of the era also took heavy steps. Although there were no shackles, splints, or shackles, and they did not need to walk thousands of miles, they threw their backpacks and luggage into the open truck that escorted them, said goodbye to their wives and children, and left. Parents, go west and come to this desolate land. From then on, the party loan, job loan, future, honor, and knowledge were all wiped out. In the future, even the children's enrollment in school, joining the party, promotion, employment, and joining the army will be implicated. The family has been saddled with political blame ever since, and it is almost impossible to get ahead.

Ninggu Pagoda is located in the far north of Liaodong, "seven or eight thousand miles away from Beijing. Its land is covered with ice and snow. It is no longer the world, and no Chinese has ever been there."

Magan Mountain is located in the west of Guizhou, more than 400 miles away from the provincial capital Guiyang. It is located in high and cold weather and is covered with clouds and fog all year round. The cold winter is covered with ice and snow, and the spring and autumn are foggy, making it difficult to see the true face of Lushan.

Ninggu Pagoda, "The cold is unparalleled in the world. From the beginning of spring to mid-April, strong winds are like thunder and lightning, and everyone is confused. From May to July, it rains continuously. In mid-August, there is heavy snow. In September At the beginning of the month, the river is completely frozen, and the snow has just reached the ground and it has turned into solid ice. Fang Gongqian once said: "People say that if you reach Ninggu Pagoda, you will not be afraid of ten yellow springs." p>

On Magan Mountain, the Qingming Festival cuts off the snow, and the Grain Rain cuts off the frost. In May, hailstones were as big as dove eggs and several inches thick; in September, the wind whistled and the grass turned yellow; in October, there was a heavy haze; in winter, the sky was white, and it was not until April of the following year that the fog cleared and the sky turned green. It is the most unlucky symbol in the hearts of officials and scribes, and it is the lingering nightmare of scholars and lofty ideals.

Zhu Shayi (vice president of the Provincial Agricultural College) once said: "Ma Ganshan has no guts (grazing land), but he is worried that his heart will be broken, and his skin will peel off even if he does not die."

I have a problem with Maganshan edge. When he was in the third grade of junior high school, the young boy was assigned by the school to carry wood and transport wood to build a school building in the mountains of Youshan River, a hundred miles away. He passed by Magan Mountain when he went to Bainayi Village to eliminate illiteracy. When he became an adult, he went to find a middle school. Tang Mulan, a classmate who was in trouble, passed out drunk at Magan Mountain (later he wrote an essay "The Sound of the Piano on an Empty Mountain" based on his trip to his hometown). When he was participating in the construction of the 306 National Defense Project, he went to Magan Mountain so many times that he lost count.

In the winter of 1969 AD, a strong wind and cooling wave came unexpectedly. Ice and snow blocked the long and dangerous slopes of Fengshan Mountain. The brave drivers failed several times and returned halfway up the mountain. Vehicles sliding on the road blocked the road and could not be cleared for a while. In desperation, Yang Dahan, the purchaser of the engineering team who was in the same car with me, had to abandon the car and walk down the mountain with me, and went to the nearby Magan Mountain Reclamation Farm to take shelter from the wind and snow, and had close contact with the rightists for the first time.

Liulong Town (today’s Fengshan Town) is in the yang of Fengshan, and Maganshan is in the yin of Fengshan. A mountain separates Yin and Yang, and ten miles separate the sky. The white-haired wind blowing from Siberia has swept across thousands of miles, and it is still as majestic and biting as ever. What is called "freezing rain" in meteorology is a wonder in the Wumeng Mountains of Greater China. It is gray and foggy, and the sky is like a pot helmet, covering the surrounding fields; the wind stirs the fog, the fog wraps around the wind, and the heaven and earth are in chaos. Most of the trees here are umbrella-shaped, and almost all the branches are bent and drooped because they cannot withstand the weight of the ice over the years. Poor and desperate, the thin and weak tree is suffering from a hunched back and missing arms and legs. It is helpless and trembling in the cold wind, standing alone in the ice and snow.

Snow, such a wonderful thing in the world, falls quietly with that coldness. Snow, the most beautiful withering flower, no matter where the soul goes, it always retains its pure beauty, and the unfinished dream of the world turns into a river of spring water, like the tears of a departed person, like the tears of a broken heart. worry.

The freezing rain made the road as smooth as a mirror, making it difficult to stand firmly, let alone walking. Yang Dahan put on my big-toed shoes with foot clips (an anti-slip clip made of wrought iron), and the two of us slid and staggered toward the ranch in the biting cold wind. Looking up, the mountains and fields are covered in mist and white; listening carefully, the sound of breaking trees can sometimes be heard but not disappear. The freezing rain is silent and as fine as powder; the ice mist is like silver needles, rising one after another and never ending. There are wild foxes in the low thorn bushes; there are golden pheasants wailing in the snow on the mountain. Magan Mountain, a barbaric mountain. I admire the decision-maker who chose this place to imprison dissidents. He must have read "Manuscripts of Qing History", he must be aware of Ninggu Pagoda, and he must be deeply shocked that only this kind of place can sharpen one's muscles. Only in this kind of place can the soul be carved.

Beyond Ertaizi, the farmyard of the Mud Reclamation Farm comes into view. There are no roofs visible on the houses in the snowfield. From a distance, the walls and door openings form a gray line, like a frame-shaped fortress painted with gray smudges. Inside the rectangular frame, there are traces of coal ash that someone sprinkled to prevent slipping. The traces are crooked and intersecting with each other.

Under the low eaves, an ugly greyhound suddenly jumped out. The beast wagged its head and tail and squealed in a fawning manner.

The wooden door opened, and a bearded man wearing a blue canvas overalls exhaled and shouted at the top of his voice:

"Hi! You damn Yang guy!" , how did you know we were having a teething ceremony today?"

"Hey! Don't you know I have a dog's nose? I am born with a mouth!" Yang Dahan took out one from his cotton coat. The military kettle was warmed by the blanket, "Is it enough? If it's not enough, I'll get it again."

People don't leave guests alone, and God leaves guests alone. Yang Dahan, the buyer of the 306 Engineering Team, is an old face of Ma Ganshan, and the field employees and veterans are all his friends. When a drinking friend comes to visit, he will give all his hospitality to you. "How about having beef hotpot and asking two old acquaintances to accompany you?" mechanic Zhao Sihai said with a yellow tooth. It turned out that a large white cow on the farm was "out of winter", and the farm with more than 200 people was as busy as if it was a festival, dividing meat, pulling onions, and washing garlic. Zhao Sihai's family got four pounds of dead beef, and two old right men, Chu Shaanxi and Zhou Jingzi, the repairman, also came to join in the fight. As a result, the small wooden house was filled with smoke and people came in and out, making it very lively.

At the banquet, everyone kept silent about politics and only talked about boring and miscellaneous things.

However, after three bowls of wine, I could not hold back my words after drinking. I couldn't help asking the two old rightists half-jokingly and half-seriously: "What kind of business did you come to Magan Mountain to practice? Could it be that you committed a 'flower case'?"

"What's the trick? If you commit a trick, you'd have figured it out." Chu Shaanxi said first with a slumped face: "Just because of the saying, 'Polish lighters are not durable and love to leak electricity.' He said that I was viciously attacking the socialist country, so I got him here to make ends meet. Can you tell me, is his grandma evil?”

The “ignition head” is a small one on the car engine distributor. Parts, also known as "fire points". Durability has nothing to do with vicious attacks. Shaanxi Lao was originally a teacher at the Provincial Transportation School (later renamed the Second Industrial School). After nine years of grazing in the reclamation field, the wind, frost, rain and snow turned the elegant teacher into a black man, with ragged clothes and vulgar language. He has long hair, a big beard, a shaved forehead, and the appearance of a sand monk. There is no trace of a literary person at all.

Another old Youzhou took a sip of wine, put down the wine bowl, and his eyes were bloodshot: "I'm not unjust, I'm an authentic rightist. I just don't have enough to eat. What's the benefit of unified purchasing and marketing?" Huh? Tell me what’s so good about it?”

“Cut your mouth while you’re eating,” Zhao’s sister-in-law, who had been silent, stuck her head out from the inner room and scolded loudly: “You should drink less and talk more. The tree has many old roots. Why don’t you get some horse dung to make it uneasy?”

The whole place was silent, and I was also bored. "Punch twice and get a big bowl!" Yang Dahan turned around and asked me to find a step.

No wonder, a woman wants to protect her home and her husband. She didn't want to cause trouble and burn herself, and she didn't want disaster to fall from the sky. She doesn't understand what "being punished for words" means. In her opinion, the old rightists in Ma Ganshan harmed themselves, their wives and children just because they couldn't control their butts and mouths. More than ten years, haven't she seen much in more than ten years? He committed suicide by cutting his wrists with a sickle, went crazy singing in the dam on a rainy day, ate "old snake berries" to satisfy his hunger, and his face was swollen with yellow water... The women who came to the field department to apply for divorce procedures were all in her home. Those who were well-dressed Women, how often has she heard the lamentations and cries of those delicate-looking city dwellers? The youngest daughter of a provincial newspaper editor came to visit her father from the provincial capital. She drowned in the lotus pond of Doulao Pavilion at the north gate of the county town on her way home. A small grave still stands on the Ertaizi ridge...< /p>

It is snowing and there is rustling outside the window. The four of them drank three and a half kilograms of soju, Yang Dahan snored like thunder, and Zhou Jingjing looked up at the dark pillow in a daze. Only Chu Shaanxi came prepared. He took out his banhu, tuned the strings, cleared his throat, and roared Qin Opera "Liu Yanchang":

Liu Yanchang cried with tears

Holding Jiao'er and little agarwood in his arms

The official residence is not your biological mother

Your mother is the Sanniang of Huayue...

The Qin opera is high-pitched, exciting, tragic and resonant. Chu Shaanxi's words are heavy and the singing is soul-stirring. The hoarse voice echoed in the cabin like weeping. As I listened, I couldn't help but feel sad.

The snow is still falling. Can you still leave tomorrow?