Southern Fujian—the encounter between mountains and sea

At the end of May 2021, I took another casual trip. From receiving the notice to leaving, it only took three days. Pack your mind, prepare simple luggage, and head all the way to Fuzhou on the coast of the East China Sea.

After getting off the plane, it was not as humid and hot as expected. Instead, because it was late at night, there was a hint of coolness after the rain. It was already one o'clock in the morning when we arrived at the accommodation, and the fatigue of traveling all the way was finally released.

1. Heat and softness

Early the next morning, I took a walk in the courtyard and saw many trees I had never seen before. The trees were tall and straight, with round leaves. Then it split open from the middle, and his companions laughed and said it looked like a "butt". The small tree is low, with small flowers in bloom, and the leaves are fresh and green, very lively. The air after the rain was damp and moist, and soon I started to sweat. I have initially experienced the weather in Fuzhou. It is not that the stove is better than the stove.

When I come to a city for the first time, I always like to watch while walking. The bustling people in the streets and alleys are busy, and the state of life is written on their faces, whether they are urgent or leisurely. In action. The urban life is full of fireworks, which is the most touching thing for ordinary people. There is a small street surrounding the residence. The houses on both sides of the road are very old and look old. In the early morning, the vegetable shop is the busiest. Several kinds of seafood are placed in front of the shop. The most common ones are clams and clams, as well as fresh hairtail and shrimp. Watching the housewives skillfully selecting clams and clams, I really couldn't see how to distinguish good from bad. Occasionally, I see people selling crabs on a basket. The crabs are roughly tied up, sapphire-colored, and the crab meat is swollen as if it is about to burst.

In the evening, various restaurants became lively. The food stalls lived up to their name, with simple furnishings. The guests came and ordered a few dishes, and then started the night life amidst the noise of drinking and fisting. Many shops here are open all night, and there are hard-working people everywhere. It's late at night, but such a small shop is still open. I admire these people who work hard to make a living. As my understanding of southern Fujian culture deepens, I find more and more that "you will win if you love to fight" is the spiritual core of the southern Fujian people. Every independent individual is a collection of stars of urban culture. A group of hardworking people prospered a coastal city and turned it into the prosperous city it is today.

Fuzhou is a lively city late at night. Fuzhou during the day is a truly ancient city.

This is the world of banyan trees. There are banyan trees everywhere, full of green and shade. Fuzhou is close to the sea and rivers, and the warm and humid subtropical climate has created an ancient banyan city. None of the banyan trees on the street are young. A common one is a big tree surrounded by two people. The curved trunk grows along with the trend, and long beards hang down, making it look like an old man with vicissitudes of life. Some banyan trees slant their bodies and extend their branches towards the road, forming a tacit understanding of the avenue. One by one, independent but not far away, quietly watching the pedestrians and vehicles passing by on the road, guarding the city.

The banyan tree has a well-developed root system and can climb and extend anywhere. It likes to grow freely and unfettered. There are a lot of constraints in the city. The roots of many banyan trees are square, and you can see the traces of being restrained. The air is too humid, there is a lot of moss on the tree trunks, and the layers of green make it look like they are wearing green velvet clothes.

? The rain in Fuzhou is moist and soft. The rain here can fall anytime and anywhere without any warning. In the morning, the rain stopped and the morning light came, but in the afternoon it started raining suddenly, just like Thunder King waking up from his nap, picking up the basin and splashing it, and there was only a "swish" sound before the rain started getting heavier. The rain feels soft on my body, not cold or urgent. It's nice to walk in the rain.

2. The beauty of Gushan Mountain

? On a lightly rainy weekend, I had nothing to do and climbed up to Guling Mountain. The locals especially recommended it to take a look at the scenery here. On a rainy day, the road up the mountain was winding and took nearly an hour from the city. Standing at the entrance of Cryptomeria King Park, there were no pedestrians around. There were several B&Bs on both sides of a small road. There was nothing special about the park entrance.

Walking into the park, climbing up the stairs, we saw a huge cedar tree in the distance. In our consciousness, there should be even bigger tree kings, so we continued moving forward without stopping too much. Going further up, there is another road. The architectural styles of the B&Bs on both sides are roughly the same, and they are all for dining, entertainment and accommodation. The rain got heavier, so we repaired a little and explored all the way. We never saw any bigger cedar trees, but we saw more scenery. Zhuli Campground, Tingfeng Valley, Guling Scenic Spot, standing on the high mountain to enjoy the scenery, you can have a panoramic view. The green in the north is verdant, and the green in the south is lush and vibrant. I can’t get enough of such green mountains and beautiful waters.

As we walked, the rain stopped, and tourists gradually began to go up the mountain together. We started looking for more ancient ruins along the road. The church we imagined was a renovated new building. The ancient bricks and ancient wares were covered with moss. The ancient building a hundred years ago has now become a leisure and entertainment area. The house will not Talk, because the owner here is no longer a person who appreciates the scenery.

? Walking down the mountain road, I saw countless flowers and plants whose names I didn’t recognize, growing in a green mountain, adding beauty to Guling. After the heavy rain, the big trees are fresh green, the flowers are fresh and tender, and everything seems to have stretched again.

After the heavy rain in Guling, standing on a high place and looking down, the fog gradually rose, making it hazy. Thick green and thick fog accompany each other. When the thick fog comes, the sky and the earth become the same color. After a while, the green trees show their true colors again.

? Exploring along the way, the largest cedar tree in our imagination is actually right in front of us. On the way back, we returned to Cryptomeria King Park again, walked behind the Cryptomeria King tree, and were finally shocked at the close distance! A small seed 1,300 years ago has now grown into a towering tree with deep roots and lush leaves, old and full of vitality. Going around to the side, or probably the front, I saw a tablet specially erected for God, and the incense was very prosperous. Standing under the cover of the branches and leaves of the big tree, the historical changes of more than a thousand years of human beings are insignificant. At this time, the sacred Cryptomeria king tree looks down on all living beings, using thousands of years of experience to heal all things in the world. Everything is still, time stops, and the mind is calm. Sanmao said that if there was an afterlife, he would like to be a tree. Making a wish is something worldly people don’t dare to ask for. I hope that in the next life I can stand quietly and be as wide and as capable as a tree in this life.

? Gushan is located in the eastern suburbs of Fuzhou City, on the north bank of the Min River. It is a well-known scenic spot in Fuzhou City. It is said that there is a huge stone like a drum on the top of the peak. Whenever there is wind and rain, there will be a shaking sound, so it is named Gushan. Gushan has always been loved by the locals. It is a good place for mountain climbing and exercise. The thousand-year-old Yongquan Temple on the mountain is also popular all year round.

On the weekend, we met to climb Gushan Mountain, which is a few stops away from our residence and we can get there quickly by taking Metro Line 2. Most of the people who came to climb the mountain were locals, including the elderly and children, and we also joined them. Walking into the green brick road of Gushan, everything is green, the trees are green, the grass is green, the brick floor and the gaps between the bricks are green. We walked slowly along the green space toward the mountain. At every section of the walk, there are small pavilions, some of which are old buildings and some of which are newly built.

The stream beside the stone path is dry at the foot of the mountain. As you go up, you can see a trickle like an earthworm flowing slowly. There are traces of water flowing on a large piece of high and low rocks halfway up the mountain. Whenever it rains heavily, a waterfall will appear here. The stone is as smooth as if it had been cut by a knife. Years of erosion have carved the stone into a stone bed. The stone that has lost its edges is filled with softness.

When we arrived at the top of Gushan Mountain, we heard that there was a temple further up, so we continued forward. Along the way, we were attracted by the calligraphy and seal carvings on the rocks. As we walked, we were amazed. Entering Yongquan Temple, we really discovered a paradise. This place is called Shoushui Spring, and the spring water is constantly gushing out from the spring. Clear spring water continuously gushes out from the dragon's mouth built in ancient times, which is ancient and magical.

In Yongquan Temple, there are so many calligraphy and stone carvings on both sides of the stone path that it is dazzling to see. The earliest ones are inscribed by Zhu Xi, an agent scholar of the Song Dynasty, and the more recent ones are inscribed by people from the Republic of China and modern times, which are similar to "visit here". They are very interesting to read.

The inscriptions on the stone walls are in different fonts and sizes. Some of them include special notes, some are engraved with names as souvenirs, and most of them are inspired by the experience of visiting the mountains and rivers. This is the paradise of ancient calligraphy art. A group of us who love calligraphy were reluctant to leave and watched it for a whole afternoon.

Yongquan Temple is a very famous temple. There is a very detailed Buddhist arrangement posted on the wall of the courtyard. In the dining hall next to it, the tables and chairs were neatly arranged, and everyone's bowls were washed and placed in their original places. There are no unnecessary decorations in the dining hall, and eating here is pure. The temple is filled with fireworks. When you walk in, you will feel pure and pure. It is everyone's wish to worship Buddha and burn incense.

I met a monk on the road, wearing glasses, holding a new mobile phone, and speaking very softly. Standing nearby and observing, he was full of bookishness. We wanted to know if he was a student of the Buddhist College. He smiled and did not deny it. After enthusiastically giving us directions, he turned around and walked away with his long sleeves fluttering. His blue shirt was fluttering. , with a bit of fairy spirit.

The highest point of Gushan is only a few hundred meters above sea level. Looking down, the Minjiang River merges with another unnamed river, winding and twisting. From a distance, the river is as turbid as the Yellow River. The city's tall buildings are built along the water, adding a touch of agility.

3. Swimming in Pingtan

On the weekend, we rented two cars to go to Pingtan Island. It took more than an hour to get there at high speed. The cross-sea bridge is extremely long, and there are many large and small boats on the sea, which together with the looming sea level in the distance form a particularly beautiful seascape.

Follow the navigation mark down to a small island called Tai O Village. The stone houses here are built near the sea. The sea breeze is very strong, and the sea breeze blowing is salty and very powerful. We walked to a house, and the door of the courtyard was piled with nets. This fishing net is very distinctive. There are countless black rubber strips on the long nylon thread. A father and daughter are stacking neatly arranged fishing nets in a flat pile. Looking at the stacked fishing nets, and then looking at the scattered fishing nets next to them, which are hundreds of meters long, I really don’t know how such a complicated arrangement work was completed in detail. Such fishing nets are used to catch oysters. From intermittent narrations, we know that after such fishing nets are lowered into the sea, the oysters will live attached to the rubber strips and be fished out when they are mature. The nets are launched in September and October every year and closed in April and May of the following year.

Pingtan is the fifth largest island in China, facing Taiwan across the sea. Entering Pingtan, the roads are all new, the streets are neatly greened, and there are few vehicles and pedestrians. It looks very quiet, not as busy as a tourist city. We first came to a stone house. At first glance, it was all stone houses. Each house was decorated in a different style. There were B&Bs everywhere and there were many tourists. The season of watching blue tears has passed. We went down to a beach to watch the sea. The soft sand was rippled by small waves, and the water was clear and cool. The fun of treading water is regardless of age. Everyone walked slowly and felt the coolness and comfort of the waves hitting their legs.

After our first experience of sea water, our interest in visiting became even stronger. The beach we walked to next was even bigger. One beach was full of sand crab holes. The little crabs were small in stature, but very clever. They would crawl back into the holes at the slightest sound. Someone tried to dig a hole, but even after drilling very deep, they didn't see it. It seems that the little sand crab is an expert at digging holes. Sand crabs have densely packed holes, and they diligently wrap the moist sand grains into small balls and throw them near the hole entrance, looking like countless sand pearls scattered.

Shells can be picked up from time to time on the beach here. The deeper we search, the deeper and deeper we search. We catch the rising and falling tides of the sea and pick them up. Occasionally we find a complete and unique shell and shout out to our friends to enjoy it together. , as if what was found was a treasure.

When we came to the third beach, there were many and dense people playing in the water, and we also stepped on the waves. The sky was getting darker, and the waves continued to extend forward. Each wave of water was higher than the previous one. My pants had been pulled up to the highest point, but they were still wet. The waves look gentle, but are actually wild. The tide has begun. The tide in the evening is getting higher and higher. The waves are like hair curls. When the waves rise, they are full of momentum. When they dissipate, they turn into a wave. A bunch of beautiful blisters.

For the first time in my life, I saw the sea up close. I couldn’t help but walk back and forth on the beach, just to feel the close contact with the sea in the vast and boundless embrace of the sea. In the gentle and powerful waves of the sea, wash away the dust in your heart and gain a moment of tranquility.

4. Wuyi Scenery

On weekends, take the train to Wuyi Mountain Scenic Area. There are constant visitors to the scenic area all year round. Four Taiwanese compatriots working in Fuzhou were traveling with us. I was a little worried at first, but I was relieved when I learned that they were working in Fuzhou.

Zhu Xi was the first to live here in Wuyi Mountain. Entering from the entrance of the scenic spot, you will see lush green trees all the way. Looking up, you can see the tall and handsome mountains. When you lower your head, you can see the winding stream, green and moist, and the bamboo rafts on the stream slowly follow you. The water flows and looks like a colorful ink painting. There is a naturally formed stone cave on the hillside, which is dark and cool, and has stone tables and benches. In such a quiet place, imagine if someone came to visit, it would be really nice to have friends from far away.

Walking to the actual foot of the mountain, this place is very flat and open. Later generations gave legends and stories to the huge rocks on all sides, making those who look at it unable to help but wonder. The climb begins along the stone steps. Depending on the steepness of the mountain, some steps are nearly 80-degree upright, allowing climbers to use their hands and feet together so they don’t worry about losing weight and falling. The mountain is actually not high, but there is always another mountain high. There was no wind in the scorching hot weather, and I was sweating layer after layer. Being able to climb to the top of the mountain depended on my willpower. What is gratifying is that when I look down the mountainside, the landscape painting becomes more colorful. The beauty of the landscape lies in the scenery, the joy of climbing lies in the heart, and the drunkard's intention is not in drinking, but in the mountains and rivers.

? Rock tea is abundant here. The Dahongpao mother tree hundreds of years ago is nothing like the majestic and majestic one imagined. A few ordinary-looking trees on the rock midway are rare treasures. , unimaginable.

In the evening, we went to see "Impression of Dahongpao". It is more accurate to say that it is a stage play, which poetically expresses the past and present life of Wuyishan Dahongpao. It was my first time to watch a performance in an open-air venue. The sound, light, electricity, and film were connected with the real mountains and rivers, and the scene changes were clever and natural. The majestic and towering Dawang Peak of Wuyi Mountain and the gurgling Jiuqu River are extremely magnificent under the light. The viewing seats with hundreds of people moved with the transition of the play, as if they were in an illusory space, with people outside the scene and people in the scene.

? Early the next morning, there was already a long queue for rafting on Jiuqu River. We hurriedly boarded the bamboo raft, sat on thick bamboo chairs and started a rafting journey. The stream is clear green, the mountains are also green, and bamboo rafts are flowing happily in the quiet scenery. The two pole men were in front of each other. The bamboo raft in front was tilted and half-curved, and the bamboo raft in the back was straight. We sat in the middle of the raft in two rows. The rafts are all made of calf-thick bamboo, and the sturdy material looks very reassuring. Sometimes the stream is turbulent, sometimes it is gentle. Where it is rapid, the water surges, causing a cry of exclamation. When it is gentle, they stretch out their hands to paddle in the water, and then look at the green mountains on both sides of the bank and imagine wildly. A group of people are enjoying themselves.

In the afternoon we came to Xianxian. Many scenic spots in the country have such scenery formed by special landforms, and originally I didn’t use much imagination. This place in Wuyi Mountain is a veritable skyline. There is only a gap between the two mountains that can allow one person to pass through. The smell in the inner room is unpleasant, and bats can be seen flying when you look up, which makes people feel frightened. Climbing up the stairs, I felt the raindrops gathering on the cracks in the rocks, falling on my body and face. The steps are very steep, and as you go up you have to use your hands and feet. The walls feel slippery and greasy, and your breathing becomes labored as the gaps become narrower while walking. The water drops kept ticking down, getting denser as they went up, but they didn't dare to move faster, not because they were afraid of falling, but because they had to turn sideways to walk through the gaps. When I finally got out, I realized it was raining. This unforgettable skywalk was so unforgettable.

Immediately afterwards, Wuyi Mountain showed us a heavy rain. Standing under the cave to take shelter from the rain, we saw that the dry ditch in front of us turned into a stream with full water, running all the way down the mountain.

Wuyi Mountain is a natural landscape. Those who break into it can only stay for a moment, leaving only intoxication and admiration.

5. A glimpse of Gulangyu Island

Gulangyu Island is a small island in the sea with a large number of tourists. It is a lively Internet celebrity attraction. The small islet in the sea, which is only 1.88 square meters, is still a little short of the minimum standard for an island of 2 square meters. However, it also forms a unique scenery.

? There are not many permanent residents on the island. The number of migrant workers exceeds the permanent population. Daily travel depends on ferries, which is very inconvenient. At present, only the elderly still live here, and young people are more yearning for the outside world. .

The streets and alleys on Gulangyu Island vary in width. It is said that there are more than 300 alleys. We walked along the historical sites and looked at them. All we could see was the exterior, and the interior was inaccessible. The houses here are all made of stone, with the highest being no more than three stories. The air-raid shelter several hundred meters long separates the residential area and the tourist area. The tourist resort has long been commercialized. The lively central street is filled with various shops, mostly selling food. Pedestrians come here in a hurry to enjoy the scenery, and what they see are urban commercial shops.

? The weather is hot at noon, and there are not many people on the long trail along the island. This is not the time to lean on the railing and watch the sea. Gulangyu attaches great importance to environmental protection. There are only three oil-burning trucks on the island. We encountered one, which was a garbage truck. Merchants use hand-pulled flatbed trucks to pull goods, and they are also marked with numbers. The management is very strict.

? We arrived at noon. We were so hot that we just wanted to hide in the shade. The scenery of Gulangyu Island was seen in a hurry. The tourists rushing towards Gulangyu Island were like waves of sea water. The scenery they saw should be different. Bar. Seeing the scenery is not as good as listening to the scenery. Even though I hired a tour guide to explain it, I still had only a half-understanding. Sometimes, what you look at when you look at the scenery is the environment. Looking at the mountains, rivers and vegetation in front of you with the most beautiful attitude, what you gain is the leisure and contentment in your heart.

Saying goodbye in a hurry, I don’t know when I will come back to the warm Gulangyu Island!

6. Looking for Immortals in Qingyuan

? Quanzhou is very famous for its stone carvings. This is the hometown of stone carvings. There are a dazzling array of carvings on both sides of the road, including a statue of Guanyin more than ten meters high. There are small pieces of various stone lions.

In the ancient city of Chongwu, sculptures can be seen everywhere. In the garden there are the Twelve Hairpins of Jinling, famous figures from past dynasties, etc. There are also monks and apprentices of Tang Dynasty looking at the sea by the beach. The master carvings in the exhibition hall are even more exquisite, which made a group of us stand in front of the carvings and think about how to carve out the effect of four layers inside and outside.

The ancient city of Chongwu has a history of thousands of years. The scenic scenery of Haimen and the majestic ancient city blend together. It is imagining that the soldiers guarded the border and fought bloody battles for thousands of years. Today's people pay tribute to it and feel a lot of emotion. This is also the junction line between the East China Sea and the South China Sea. CCTV’s marine weather detection data is based on this, which is a very important geographical marker.

The life of the residents of the ancient city is as usual. From outside the door, you can see that there are offerings in every house. The stone road is not slippery on rainy days. In the narrow passage, pedestrians and electric vehicles can only pass through each other. It can be seen that the living conditions have improved a lot. The terrazzo and tile floors at the door are clean and beautiful, but some people still retain the wooden window lattice, which is narrow and dark, and they dare not peek at it.

The light rain was pouring, and we ran all the way to Qingyuan Mountain. Get off the bus at the Tianhu Scenic Area on the top of the mountain and go all the way down the mountain. The unique Tianhu is shaped like a half moon. One side of the stone bridge is the deep forest, and the other side close to the mountain is the Tianhu. The water of the lake is clean and clear, and the koi in the lake can be clearly seen. When we swam to the shore, we found that it was six or seven pounds in size. One lake and one fish guard the tranquility of nature.

As we walked down the mountain, the rain gradually became heavier. In order to see Laojun Mountain as soon as possible, we chose a small road. Unexpectedly, we encountered many forks without road signs along the way. Sometimes we went up the mountain, sometimes we went down the mountain. Difficulty and exhaustion coupled with difficult choices made me extremely confused. As I walked, I thought to myself, could it be that I am not sincere today? Why is the road down the mountain so difficult?

Fortunately, victory must be difficult. After more than an hour, we finally went down the mountain.

The statue of Laojun is tall and peaceful, leaning against the green mountains and looking into the distance. Seen from a distance, he has infinite wisdom and a profound smile. There are no eyes in the statue, but Lao Tzu's eyes are bright, overlooking everything in the world, and he understands it clearly. In front of thinkers, ordinary people can only worship and hope that the boundless wisdom will spread and benefit all, so that more people can gain wisdom, understand the meaning of life, and live ordinary lives well.

Standing in front of Laojun, I can’t recall a single word of the Tao Te Ching. It’s really embarrassing. In front of the square is the full text of the Tao Te Ching written by Zhao Mengfu, engraved on a square stone tablet. The calligraphy master Zhao Mengfu's calligraphy is vigorous, bold, upright and powerful. When I came to Fuzhou, I lamented that I had read too little and studied calligraphy and seal cutting too little. Everywhere I went, I only saw the scenery, and most of the history and literary origins behind it were unknown. This kind of tour can also be regarded as opening a door and deepening the understanding of history and culture.

? Master Hongyi passed away in Qingyuan Mountain. There is a stupa built here. Reading his life, future generations cannot comment on the master’s life experience. I only hope that the master who has perfected his practice can sleep quietly in this fairy mountain. .

? One day of searching for immortals, Qingyuan Mountain is high with lush forests, quiet environment, and the mountains and rivers are all of the same color. I have been thinking that it should be easy for the ancients to gain enlightenment in such a place where mountains and rivers are quiet, and people are in the same place as the mountains and rivers. However, having this heart of cultivation and staying away from the fireworks of the world all year round is the cultivation of an immortal. Ordinary people occasionally look for immortals, while ambitious people cultivate throughout their lives.

7. Southern Fujian Food

? When traveling in Southern Fujian, you must eat in Southern Fujian. There are many small shops on the street, and this is a world of market snacks. People in southern Fujian often eat Laohua, Guobian, oyster cakes, etc. I couldn’t wait to try them in the first week. The seafood is really fresh, but the taste is still unaccustomed. The stomach has memory. Although the stomachs of Northwest people are not resistant to seafood, it is indeed difficult to see people who don’t like it without spicy food. The food here is very light and the taste is a little sweet. The famous dish lychee meat is a typical sweet dish.

Originally I wasn’t too fond of pork, but after I came here and it became my staple food, the bamboo shoots and pork buns, siu mai, pork swallows, and pork ribs soup all taste delicious no matter how you make them. Especially the pork rib soup, with some corn added, the soup is fragrant and sweet, and the color of the soup is also light. It is delicious with a few scallops.

Pork swallows and fish balls are the most common snacks in southern Fujian. There are abundant seafood here, the fish balls are fresh and tender, and the pork swallows are fresh and crispy. You will never get tired of eating them. Locals usually have a bowl of meatball or fish ball soup with a side of noodles, and eat the noodles while drinking the soup. The reason why I didn’t try any combination is that the noodles without any condiments are very different from the northern noodles, so when I walk into the store, I drink soup with peace of mind every time.

The most abundant thing in seaside cities is seafood. The original plan was to buy seafood and cook it myself, but the plan did not come true. Finally, it came true at a party at a famous local seafood restaurant. Before the meal, have a bowl of vermicelli duck soup. There are many kinds of seafood. This is my first time to try seafood shabu-shabu. The base material is a pot of water. I shabu-shabu all kinds of seafood and it tastes delicious. When you eat seafood in the inland city in your hometown, you get a high-end meal. When you eat seafood in the coastal city, you get fresh and delicious seafood. The taste will never be forgotten for a long time.

Write at the end:

A long trip is an unforgettable memory. Write it down and keep it in the text. Every time you read it, you will always recall the scenery and people you traveled together. The scorching heat and heavy rain are not kind to those who want to see the scenery. The annoyance and embarrassment at that time will become a blending experience over time. Having experienced it personally, all that remains are the feelings at that moment. After seeing all the mountains and rivers, you will eventually return to a familiar place. This place of peace of mind is my hometown.

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