How did the ancients distinguish the quality of tea when drinking it?

Today, if you are in a corner of downtown, you will suddenly hear the music. Cao sings at night, and many men and women in plain clothes kneel on the ground. Most of them are not Dojo, but tea parties in a certain circle.

What's more, during the dinner indoors, I dug out a sink and set up a cup like a boat. I let it drift and meander by hydraulic power and accidentally got stuck. I have to stir it a few times before drifting, and I don't want to simply lift it. My throat was dry and my tongue was dry, and I finally parked it in front of me. It is euphemistically called imitating the nobles of Jin and Tang dynasties, and it is highly imitated as "meandering water flowing".

There are also people who wear uniforms in the name of drinking tea. Some people still wear Hanfu on a hot day, towering and winding. Tea was ordered in the Song Dynasty, and Japanese bamboo rafts made tea. The guzheng music played by the girl next to her is Lu Wencheng's version of Pinghu Autumn Moon, and all kinds of itineraries are confusing. I wonder what year it is today.

Tea, not as simple as chicken soup, has become Liuwei Dihuang Pill.

A few days ago, a busybody couldn't stand this annoyance, and sent an article entitled "Drinking tea has become a ridiculous thing", which was full of ridicule and irony, and was titled "pretending", "nonsense" and "disgusting". The onlookers were in high spirits and booed. Although happy, but also very mean.

Why did the tea affair become a ceremony and why did the tea mat become a Dojo? Truth can be recognized, but it is not necessarily a well-known truth.

In recent years, this kind of tea dispute began in the late 1990s. At that time, tea merchants in Taiwan Province Province, who paid attention to culture and commercial packaging, improved the Minnan Kung Fu tea method into a variety of desktop "tea art" with various pretexts, which became popular in South China with desktop teahouses. This exaggeration, affectation and triviality gradually attracted the dissatisfaction of some old tea bones, so an opposite tea method appeared in the tea circle, flaunting its frankness and claiming to be the prime minister in the mountains. Without the words "embrace simplicity" and "modesty", and without a cynical gesture, the online name is not cultured; As for three drunkenness, seven bowls of immortals, silence and half leisure, it is even deeper. The appearance is either four mountains in Shangshan or five old people in Huishan. What's more, at that time, he didn't use electricity to boil water, but actually piled up pine carbon blocks and set up a clay pot to cook tea. Smoky, dark, full of cows. Have some tea and throw it in this field. If you ask the master how to cure the disease? Afraid of delaying the meeting, I said, take a rope to have tea.

Especially when Taiwan Province tea merchants successfully packaged Pu 'er tea and aged tea, they even made a drink.

After collection.

Drinking tea, from one vulgarity to another affectation.

One of them, such as the author, is very angry with tea. They have a sober, rational and natural side, but Ji Kang, Ruan Ji, Dan Tao, Xiang Xiu and others have also gone to the other extreme: extreme, cynical and complaining more, but their feelings are gone. It is called detachment, but it is actually a stage.

More than ten years ago, after the popularity of the Internet, I also met with tea friends from all over the country in famous forums such as Ziou, Sanzui and Qingxin, and witnessed this cultural conflict and lawsuit. I am a fence-sitter, and I won't cross left and right; Hang an honest moderator of classical culture partition, hope high. One day, a tea maker sarcastically said to me angrily, "Those dead fake tea makers turned drinking tea into a theatrical performance, which was so pretentious and disgusting. Why don't you give some advice as a literate person? " ?

I can only smile apologetically: "No position is also a position. In my opinion, there are two kinds of X culture, one is elegant X and the other is vulgar X. Which one do you choose? I think you don't call it drinking tea, you call it splitting tea (Cantonese call it drunken barking and splitting wine). Do you think mainland tea fanatics have more connotations than Taiwan Province film winners? Don't we pretend to be poor, so that people can't see that we are really poor? "

Brother Shui, an old tea friend, said that there are two kinds, one is called "micro-Sao" and the other is called "fried dung". Others say, how can there be culture without pretending? The weak crown is fashionable and mature, but act young is not confused; Vulgar people like to pretend to be elegant, while intellectuals like to pretend to be vulgar? It makes sense that each has his own clothes and finds his own way.

This is normal. People always try their best to show their superiority. Both vested interests and high-ranking dignitaries are emphasizing the importance of ethical order, and arrogant words will show off their gold and silver lanterns. Of course, the people without privilege and money are dissatisfied, so they also shouted: But we have freedom and mountains! Isn't that childish and stupid, playing the thief of the seven sages of bamboo forest? Bruce Lee invented Jeet Kune Do, and they created a tea ceremony.

Superior, naturally, there are quiet days in the rivers and lakes, martial arts conferences, and Huashan swords.

Entering the 2 1 century, cultural exchanges have become more frequent. In the tide of antique return, all kinds of Chinese mainland antique dealers and literary players who went to Japan for treasure hunting brought back all kinds of old tea sets and Japanese-style iron pot that had been lost in other countries for many years, and also gradually brought back Japanese-style tea mat culture and tea ceremony. To tell the truth, although Japanese tea method and eastern Zen originated in the Eastern Tang Dynasty, people played better than us, and still retained some classical essence, saying "Li Yuedao". For example, Taitaro Suzuki spread Zen to Europe and America, and the harmony (Sabi) of Japanese tea ceremony also spread to China, the mother country.

Although there are still some people in China who play SABI as Sabi, on the whole, it is more and more mature and gradually fades away from many absurdities of that year.

Since ancient times, tea affairs have been personnel, all kinds of completely different tea disputes, and also conflicts between different attitudes and values of life. On the surface, it is the difference between noise and silence, complexity and simplicity, but in essence it is a cultural struggle between order and ethics, freedom and rebellion, and nobility and civilians.

The differences of different tea cultures can be traced back to the laws of tea, and the changes have been completely distinct. Noble people give tea, pay attention to ceremony and grand things. Civilians eat tea, but it is plain and simple. Tea is the Tao, regardless of genre, but all love to declare the spirit and realm, smeared with religious color, and emphasized the belief in Buddhism, Taoism and Confucianism. However, even if all beings are equal as Buddha, there are factions. Since the Tang Dynasty, the royal aristocrats have worshipped esoteric Buddhism, while the common people have believed in Mahayana, Pure Land Buddhism and other laws. Let alone tea.

Archaeology shows that rare and secret porcelain, rich and luxurious gold and silver tea sets and simple saucers unearthed from many civilian tombs were unearthed in Famen Temple, the hometown of the royal Dojo in the Tang Dynasty.

The difference between heaven and earth

In the Song Dynasty, Cai Xiang wrote Tea Book instead of Lu Yu's Tea Classic, and entered the tea ceremony era of group tea. At that time, the development of tea ceremony instruments was more distinct. At that time, there were many famous kilns in the world, and their professional tea sets were launched one after another, and the officials and the people competed for each other. In particular, Jianzhou Kiln and Jizhou Kiln, two famous kilns specializing in making tea cups, are the most famous. Rabbit's small cups and partridge spots compete with each other. It is precisely because of the aristocratic tea method and the taste of literati that the unprecedented development of arts and crafts and social production has been promoted. Pursuing the competition and meticulous creation of tea sets has pushed the spirit and level of China classical craftsmen to a new height. The remains of tomb culture leave these magnificent treasures that travel through time and space, telling the story of a thousand years.

It can be seen that today's people claim to be domestic demand, and the luxury of the past is not necessarily a bad thing.

After Buddhism and tea were introduced to Japan, there were also luxurious Tang-style tea methods of royal princes and princes in the shogunate era and civilian tea ceremony represented by Xianye Lixiang. The difference between joining WTO and being born, flourishing age and dead wood, is a trend of confrontation from the day of birth, mutual contempt and mutual contempt.

Today, however, the Tang Dynasty, which represents the luxurious power of the shogunate, built a kiln in the Song Dynasty and replaced it with Tianmu tea lamp. The Mori no Rikyū Heile tea bowl, which represents the civilian culture, is also displayed in the museum as a national treasure.

This scene, as Mei Yunweng, a scholar in the late Qing Dynasty, wrote in the famous "Braun Cone Pot": "Iron is its place, sand is its place, and time is its place."

At this historic moment of cohesion, two cultures that once shared the same fate, eliminated the differences in origin, lineage and style, and laughed off the enmity?