Talk about the development and changes of cheongsam in ancient times (simple) Thank you.

As a member of the robe family, the origin of cheongsam can be traced back to the deep clothes in the Spring and Autumn Period and the Warring States Period. Deep clothes were valued by people at that time from the Spring and Autumn Period and the Warring States Period to the Han Dynasty, and the robes of later generations may have a certain relationship with deep clothes. In fact, there is quite a difference between a deep coat and a robe. The former is divided up and down, and the effect is equivalent to connecting the upper and lower skirts of the coat. Robe and clothes go hand in hand, basically losing the meaning of coat and clothes. Later, robes and clothes were gradually accepted as a stable clothing style, which went hand in hand with tops and bottoms. Robes have been used in court costumes since the Han Dynasty. At the beginning, it was mostly straight with a wide body and a long garment attached to it. The sleeves were fat, the cuffs were slightly shrunk, and the elbows were curved, which was called "plum" or "cow beard". In ancient times, some people said that "Zhang Mei became a shadow". With the passage of time, the style of robes has changed. Deep-clothed robes in the Han Dynasty, round-necked robes in the Tang Dynasty and straight robes in the Ming Dynasty are all typical wide-body robes. Most of them are worn by intellectuals and the ruling class, which has become a fashion over time. Robe clothes therefore represent a kind of leisure life of upper-class people and intellectuals who are not engaged in production. A wide shirt and gown on a dress. Praising the clothes belt has gradually become a symbol of clothing civilization in the Central Plains.

The robes popular in ethnic minority areas or nomadic people are generally tight and narrow, which is conducive to riding and shooting or other intense activities. This kind of clothes mostly use narrow sleeves on the left cuff, and the robe body is more suitable. Historically, the Han people have used this tight-fitting robe and mandarin jacket many times, and the Hufu riding and shooting popularized in Wuling, Zhao Haoqi is a typical example. Khufu was also very popular in the Tang Dynasty. Together with huzhuang, Hu Qi and Le Hu, Khufu was a model of the widespread popularity of foreign cultures during the Kaiyuan and Tianbao years of the Tang Dynasty, and was an "exotic product" on Chang 'an Avenue that year. During the Liao, Jin, Yuan and Qing dynasties, fitted robes and clothes once dominated the costumes, although they all experienced or showed the process or trend of becoming broad-minded. Because it lasted the longest and was relatively stable in the Qing Dynasty, robes can be regarded as typical costumes.

In the first year of Shunzhi (A.D. 1644), the Qing ancestors led the troops into the customs, made Beijing their capital, and then unified the whole country. With the initial stability of the regime, the reform of the service system began to be implemented, which set off a huge wave of dressing up. The strictness of laws and regulations is very important to life. There is a saying that "leave the head without leaving the hair, leave the hair without leaving the head". At this point, the traditional crown-wearing clothes are almost completely banned. It is said that for thousands of years, the clothing styles of tops and bottoms have only been kept in the clothes of Han women's homes. Both men and women should wear robes on celebration occasions. There are many kinds of robes, including court robes, dragon robes, embroidered robes and secret robes. From the semantic point of view, cheongsam generally refers to the robes worn by flag bearers (both men and women), but only the robes worn by women of the Eight Banners are related to the cheongsam of later generations, and the robes used as dresses, such as robes and embroidered robes, are not customarily classified as "cheongsam". The rulers of Qing Dynasty emphasized Manchu riding and shooting, trying to maintain their inherent customs and ways of dressing. On the one hand, they tried to assimilate the Han nationality with Manchu costumes, while at the same time forbidding Manchu and Mongolian women to imitate the Han nationality costumes. Judging from the repeated bans issued during the years of Zhi Ding and Jiaqing, it is obvious that Manchu women are forbidden to imitate the costumes of Han women. By the end of the Qing Dynasty, there were also Han women imitating Manchu costumes. The quiet blending of Manchu and Han women's clothing styles has made the difference between the two sides smaller and smaller, which has become a prelude to the popularity of cheongsam throughout the country.

In the late Qing dynasty, the robes worn by women in the flag were wide, straight and tough, and the clothes were ankle-long. "Yuanbao collar" is widely used. Cover your cheeks and touch your ears with the collar high. The robe is embroidered with various patterns, including collar, sleeves, lapels and a plurality of wide piping. During Xianfeng and Tongzhi years, inlay rolling reached its peak, and some even? The whole dress is rolled up with lace, so that it is almost difficult to tell what material it is. The decoration of the flag gown is almost at its peak. At this time, the Qing dynasty was teetering and unsustainable, and the internal and external diplomacy of the Qing court was difficult, and the national strength declined. Imperialist guns broke through the closed door of the Qing Dynasty. In order to save the nation and survive, the Westernization School of Qing Dynasty put forward the strategy of "taking middle school as the body and western learning as the use", sent a large number of international students to study abroad, and changed the army into a new army. Western-style student uniforms and hats, as well as western-style military uniforms and hats, first appeared among students and soldiers in China. The input of clothing provides another frame of reference for judging beauty, which directly affects the change of social clothing concept. Later, the cheongsam evolved into a new style that blended Chinese and western styles, and its changes influenced by the West can be said to be the beginning.

19 1 1 The sudden outbreak of the Revolution of 1911 overthrew the last feudal dynasty in China's history, cleared the political obstacles for the popularization of western-style clothing in China, and at the same time abandoned the traditional harsh concepts of ethics and ethics, and lifted all kinds of oranges with strict hierarchy in the clothing system. The free transformation of clothing to civilians and internationalization has come naturally, and cheongsam has thus unloaded the heavy burden of tradition. Due to the demise of the Manchu ruling regime, cheongsam was rarely worn at this time. Western-style Hanfu is bustling and complicated. The old cheongsam was abandoned, and the new cheongsam began to take shape in troubled times.

At this time, the fashion center has already moved from Suzhou and Yangzhou to Shanghai. Huayang, Shanghai, is an open commercial port and a luxurious and prosperous place where five parties live. Shanghai is also an important place for women to seek liberation. Missionaries, businessmen and revolutionaries competed to establish girls' schools, which set off a wave of feminist movement. The social atmosphere of seeking liberation has swept away the stereotypes and bad habits in clothing and makeup. Clothing decoration swept away the posturing of the Qing Dynasty, tended to be simple and elegant in color, emphasizing the natural beauty of women. Cheongsam originally appeared in the form of vest, which grew to the instep and was added to the jacket. Later, the long vest was changed into sleeveless style, which became the prototype of the new cheongsam. It is said that Shanghai female students who are fashion first are the initiators of the popularity of cheongsam. At that time, female students, as representatives of intellectual women, became the ideal image of society. They are symbols of civilization and pioneers of fashion, and even celebrities, prostitutes and other fashion figures dress up as female students. The 1930s and 1940s were the heyday of cheongsam, and its basic silhouette had reached maturity. The new cheongsam, which came into being after the Revolution of 1911 and gradually became popular in the Northern Expedition, is different from the flag gown. The improved cheongsam, which appeared in the late 1930s, absorbed western-style cutting methods in structure, making the robe body more fit, which will be introduced in detail in later chapters. Although cheongsam was born out of women's robes in Qing Dynasty, it is different from the old system and has become the standard dress of modern women in China.

Clothing of flag women and Han women

Cheongsam, as a kind of female dress, has a close relationship with the flag girl. The so-called flag girl refers to the female members of the flag-bearer family; The flag bearer is the name of the person who was incorporated into the Eight Banners in the Qing Dynasty. The composition of the Eight Banners in Qing Dynasty is mainly Manchu, mixed with other nationalities such as Han nationality and Mongolian nationality. The Eight Banners include Manchu, Mongolian and Han armies of the Eight Banners, as well as imperial clan Aisingiorro and Jueluo of the Qing Dynasty. Eight Banners Han Army and Eight Banners Mongolia are composed of Han Chinese and Mongolian ancients respectively. In the early Qing Dynasty, there were 260,000 Han troops in the Eight Banners, which was three times the sum of Manchu and Mongolian in the Eight Banners. So the standard-bearer is not only Manchu, but also Mongolian or Han. In this way, it is not accurate to define cheongsam as the clothing worn by Manchu people. Manchu is a minority living in the north, good at fishing and hunting, and nomadic everywhere. The robes they wear are open on all sides, with buckles and belts, which are convenient to take off and keep warm, which is very suitable for their lifestyle. Later, the Han and Mongolian people who joined them also adopted this kind of clothing. In the late Ming and early Qing dynasties, the Eight Banners system was gradually established, and cheongsam also changed and developed, which was different from the early Manchuria. Its predecessor became the modern cheongsam in the Republic of China, and it was called the new cheongsam or the new cheongsam. There are obvious differences between the robes of Manchu women and the two kinds of costumes of Han women in the early Qing Dynasty.

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The origin of cheongsam As a member of the robe family, the origin of jujube cheongsam can be traced back to the deep clothes in the Spring and Autumn Period and the Warring States Period.

Flag-bearer robes and cheongsam are not a fixed form, but a process of change and development. Although it seems that there is nothing wrong with treating cheongsam as the robe of a flag bearer or a flag girl, it is inevitable that it is a whitewash.

Early years of the Republic of China-a cheongsam that passed quietly.

At the beginning of the 20th century, the political situation in China was ups and downs. The Revolution of 1911 abolished the imperial system, established the Republic of China, cut braids, changed colors, destroyed it, and sent the crown service hierarchy belonging to the feudal dynasty to the history museum, all of which created conditions for the extension of the new cheongsam.

1920s-Inverted sleeves and new styles.

In the 10 era and the early 1920s, there was a period of "civilized new clothes" among urban women.

1930s-Golden Age (I)

The 1920s to 1940s was the most glorious period of modern women's wear in China, and the 1930s was the peak of this period. It was at this time that cheongsam established an irreplaceable position on the stage of women's wear and became a typical representative of women's wear in China.

1940s-Golden Age (2)

It can be said that the process of cheongsam going classic was basically completed in the 1930s, and the 40s was the continuation of its golden age.

The 1950s-there was a glorious moment.

In an era when people are masters of their own affairs, if clothes are popular, the leading role of fashion will turn to civilians.

Cold in the sixties and seventies -20 years.

The Cultural Revolution from 1966 to 1976 was a great disaster for traditional culture and cheongsam.

80' s and 90' s-glory is hard to come by.

The heyday of cheongsam has gone far away, and no one cares about it for 30 years. It seems to be somewhat outdated in the land after the opening in the 1980 s.

Cheongsam aesthetics

In the past ten years, the cheongsam reappeared in the fashion world frequently appeared in international fashion dances, and its charm was even better than that of that year. As a national representative, formal dress appears in various international social etiquette occasions.

Beijing School and Shanghai School of Cheongsam

Beijing School and Shanghai School represent two styles in art and culture. Shanghai style is characterized by absorbing western art, being innovative, flexible and diverse, and having a strong commercial atmosphere; The style of Beijing school has the style of official school, which is restrained and concise.

Artists and Cheongsam

Art is a social ideology that reflects social life and expresses the author's thoughts and feelings by shaping images.

Designers and Cheongsam

After the evolution in the first half of the 20th century, the basic features and components of cheongsam gradually became stable. Cheongsam has become a classic women's dress. Classics are relatively stable and fashions are ever-changing. But fashion designers often look for inspiration from the treasure house of classics, and cheongsam is also one of the inspiration sources for designers.

In a word, cheongsam is a traditional dress for women in China, not a lost historical dress. It has both the vicissitudes of the past and the brand-new present. Cheongsam itself has certain historical significance, high appreciation and great collection value. Although there are not many women wearing cheongsam in modern times, modern cheongsam still maintains its traditional charm in many places, and at the same time embodies the beauty of fashion, so it also has certain collection value.