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Pocket details
A purse is a small bag for carrying scattered items worn by people in traditional Chinese costumes. The shapes of purses include round, oval, square, rectangular, peach-shaped, wishful-looking, pomegranate-shaped, etc.; the patterns of purses range from simple to simple, including flowers, birds, animals, grass and insects, landscapes, figures, auspicious words, and poems. There are all of them, and they have a strong decorative meaning. In modern southern dialects such as Cantonese, Hakka, and Hokkien, pouch is commonly used to refer to a wallet. Basic introduction Chinese name: Purse Category: Traditional Chinese costumes Wearing method: Wear it with you Shape: round, square, etc. Patterns: flowers, birds, beasts, landscapes, etc. Alias: Purpose: carry scattered items Introduction to purses, after the Han Dynasty, the Southern and Northern Dynasties , Tang Dynasty, title test, embroidered purses, hanging purses on Dragon Boat Festival, Shanxi polls, sachets, shooting purses, songs about purses, current situation of purses, allusions, purse introduction The predecessor of purse is called "purse". The word "charge" means load; the word "bag" means bag. The so-called "pouch" is a small bag used to hold small items. Because the clothes of the ancients did not have pockets, some items that must be carried with you (such as towels, seals, coins, etc.) could only be stored in such bags. The earliest pouch can be carried by hand or carried on the shoulder when used, so it is also called "holding pouch" or "carrying pouch". Later, I gradually felt that it was inconvenient to carry it on my shoulders, so I hung it on my waist and formed a custom called "side bag". The material for making pouches is usually leather, so it is also called "pouch". For example, one unearthed from the Subash Ancient Tomb in Shanshan, Xinjiang, is made of sheepskin and is rectangular in shape, 6.7 cm long and 3.7 cm wide, with a belt tied around the mouth for hanging. The earliest extant bag object is a relic from the Spring and Autumn Period and the Warring States Period. The custom of purses has been followed since the Han Dynasty. Volume 136 of "Beitang Shuchao" quotes "The Biography of Cao Man": "(Cao) Cao Cao was a wealthy man, so he wore a small pouch to hold towels and fine things." "Book of Jin" "The Biography of Deng You" also records: Deng You dreamed of walking by the waterside and saw a woman, but a fierce beast ripped her sac from behind. It can be seen that during the Wei and Jin Dynasties, both men and women wore bags around them. The bag is decorated with animal head patterns, also known as "animal head bag". This kind of bag image decorated with animal head patterns can also be seen on the portrait stone of a Han tomb in Yinan, Shandong: on the east section of the north wall of the middle room, the painting is divided into upper and lower panels, both of which are engraved with characters and stories. The two people in the lower frame are both wearing cloth-patterned hats, tied behind their heads with ribbons, their sleeves are rolled up, and their waists are belted. Among them, the person on the left wears a leather belt, and hangs from the leather belt on the right waist is a tiger head pattern pouch. The pouch is relatively large, exquisitely made, and embroidered with lace. The same pouch is also painted on the western section of the north wall of the middle room. The difference is that the figure wears it in a different direction. It has a tiger head pattern pouch hanging from the leather belt on the left waist. Hanfu Northern and Southern Dynasties By the Northern and Southern Dynasties, the bag-wearing system was formally established. The bags worn by people were not all made of leather, but were also made of silk fabrics, but the name of the bag was still used. "Book of Sui·Book of Etiquette Six": "(Northern Dynasties) bag, second grade or above gold thread, third grade gold and silver thread, fourth grade silver thread, fifth and sixth grade colorful thread, seventh, eighth and ninth grade colorful thread, animal claw Those with official seals and ribbons are not allowed to wear pouches and claws. "In the Sui Dynasty, it was used exclusively on concubines under Liang Di to use the animal head pouches to separate concubines. "Book of Sui·Etiquette Seventh": "Liangdi, the dress of the court, has silver-seal buttons, and the writing is as it should be. Wear jade, green ribbon, eighty poems, one foot six feet long, animal claw bag. Yu Tongshi Woman. Baolin, Bazi, Zhanyi's clothes, copper seal ring button, wearing water beryl, moxa ribbon... animal claw pouch, a kind of pouch, referred to as "animal claw". "Claw" is a small sachet woven with animal claw patterns. Officials in the Northern Dynasties often wore it around their waists to hold seals and ribbons. In the Tang Dynasty, the bags for releasing official seals and fish talismans (turtle talismans) were used separately from the bags for holding small items. According to the "Chao Ye Qian Zai" record: "In the middle of the first year of the Yuan Dynasty, the ninth grade and above were ordered to carry swords and sharpening bags, and the colors were fish. The shape is made of silk, which is the image of a fish, which is a sign of strength. "The knife-shaped bag is a fish-shaped bag, which is called "fish bag" and "seven things about crouching" in the new and old "Tangshu". The "seven things" include swords, knives, whetstones, Qizhen, Kejie, syringes, flint bags and other items. "Qi Shi Qi Shi" should be the former name of the later "Qi Shi Purse" (Chapter 78 of "Qi Lu Deng"). Women in the Tang Dynasty especially liked to wear purses. Most of the purses are round with different patterns on them. Most of the images of women wearing hanging pouches are in Hu clothes and leather belts, dressing up as women from the Western Regions, but there are usually hanging pouches on the waist, such as the stone carvings on Wei's tomb in Wangcun, Nanli, Xi'an, and the tomb of Li Chongrun in Tang Dynasty. And the maid in the mural of Li Xian's tomb.
Dunhuang murals: Many ethnic minorities in the Tang Dynasty had the custom of wearing lotuses. For example, in the Dunhuang murals in Cave 158 of the Tang Dynasty, "Princes from Various Countries in Mourn", you can clearly see two ethnic minority figures with lotuses hanging on their waists. pouches, and the pouches made are very distinctive. For example, the person in the first row is kneeling on one leg and cutting his nose. He has a heart-shaped purse hung on his left waist, which looks like a cloud. The person in the second row with a knife in his chest has a floral waist-shaped purse hung on his left waist, with a white background and lake blue edges. These two purses look very delicate and have very sophisticated workmanship. The pouches worn by the Tibetan envoys in the "Moving Chariot Picture" by Yan Liben, a painter of the Tang Dynasty, also reflect the customs of that time. According to research, the "fish bags" and "turtle bags" carried as accessories during the Tang and Song Dynasties were mostly pockets for holding items. Purses became precious accessories only in the Tang Dynasty. Tang Fengyan's "Feng's Hearing and Seeing Notes: Jiang's Birthday": "In the 17th year of Kaiyuan of Emperor Xuanzong, Prime Minister Zhang Shuo then declared that the birthday of Jiang's birthday on August 5th would be the Qianqiu Festival, and there would be people in all the buildings who offered their inheritance and revealed their pockets." Du Mu's " "Crossing the Qinzheng Building" poem: "The name of the Qianqiu Festival is empty, and the Chenglu silk bag has disappeared." The Chenglu bag, that is, the purse, evolved from the eye bright bag (the custom of the eye bright bag: the ancient custom of early August in the lunar calendar) In the early morning, women use colorful silk bags to hold the dew on trees and flowers. It is said that using this to wash eyes can keep people's eyesight for a year). The bag presented by officials is called "Chenglu bag", which is a metaphor for bathing in the emperor's favor. Folk imitations are given as holiday gifts and used as ornaments. Men and women often wear them around their waists to hold sundries. Du Mu In the mural of Cave 189 of the Kizil Grottoes in Xinjiang, there is an image of a Kucha noble donor painted in the 6th to 7th centuries AD. He has a girdle around his waist, a short knife hanging on it, and a heart-shaped pouch. This picture is now in Berlin, Germany. In the "Picture of the Uighur King Paying Respect to the Buddha" on the east wall of Cave 409 of the Five Dynasties in Dunhuang, there are many things hanging on the belt of the Uighur King. The purse hanging among them has a unique shape, like a gourd, but the upper mouth is trumpet-shaped, the bottom is round, and the top is round. Big and small. The color is white and may be due to fading. A purse of the same period and with the same shape can also be found in the corridor of Cave 39 of Yulin Grottoes, and can also be seen in the pictures of Uighur nobles worshiping Buddha. Another example is the image of the donor in Cave 169 of the Beziklik Grottoes in Turpan. On the right side of the eight-body Uighur donor, there is a pouch hanging from the belt, with a bead at the top of the pouch. The pouches are all the same style and size, but different colors. This painting is now in Berlin, Germany. Title test The name "purse" appeared after the Song Dynasty. "Popular Collection·Clothing" said: ""Neng Gaizhai Man Lu" contains Liu Weiming's poem "The Western Qing Dynasty directly contains lotus as a raft", and Ouyang Xiuqi uses "Purple Lotus hanging on a raft" to "Red Medicine Turns the Steps", both of which are read as The name of the small bag is called the purse, which is also worn outside the robe to see the emperor. Or is it because of the purple lotus? "This is the reason why the purple lotus in the Song Dynasty is called the purse. Yuan Mei's "Suiyuan Essays" has "Purple Lotus is not a purse" to distinguish it. This formulation is common in Yuan dramas and Ming and Qing note novels. The so-called purse is actually the former purse, side pouch and pouch. Wang Ji of the Qing Dynasty recorded in "Shi Yuan Hui": "The Jin Dynasty's "Yufu Zhi": All civil and military officials have bags with ribbons, and the eight ministers have purple lotuses. This is a load for load, not a lotus canal. Nowadays, the bag is called a purse. This is ” It was also popular to wear pouches among the people in the Yuan Dynasty. For example, in the portrait of the Mongolian donor in the corridor of Cave 332 of the Yuan Dynasty in the Dunhuang mural, the two people in the front have pouches hanging on both sides of their waists. During the Ming and Qing Dynasties, the emperors of the Qing Dynasty often used purses to reward ministers at the end of the year. "Xiaoting Xulu" records: During the Qiangjia period, "all the princes and ministers gave gifts at the end of the year; the imperial ministers all gave a purse of 'peace and peace every year'." Qing Dynasty Embroidered Purse Purse was also called "eggplant bag" and "shun bag" during the Ming and Qing Dynasties. Chapter 3 of "Jin Ping Mei": Ximen Qing "then took out (silver) from the eggplant bag, about one or two pieces, and handed it to Mrs. Wang to prepare food and drinks." This is the way people call it according to the Song Dynasty. "History of the Song Dynasty·Yu Fu Zhi" states that the gold master's ritual objects include a jade belt and a leather eggplant bag. Chapter 24 of "Qi Lu Deng": "Shao Wen took out a letter from his pocket and handed it to Xia Fengruo." There are a large number of physical objects handed down from Qing Dynasty purses. Usually made of silk fabric with colorful embroidery. Because the materials and shapes used to make the purses are different, the names are also different. Some are small at the top and large at the bottom, with a waist in the middle, resembling a gourd, so they are called "gourd purses". Some are made into a chicken heart shape, with a big top and a small bottom, commonly known as "chicken heart purses". In some large and medium-sized cities, there are also workshops specializing in the production of this kind of accessories. For example, "A Brief Introduction to the Cultural Relics of the Old Capital" records: "Nine official styles are sold in Purse Alley, which are embossed with gold and brocade and come in all kinds of patterns." It is said that this kind of purse was originally used by men to hold tobacco leaves. Later, everyone thought it was very beautiful, so it became Everyone is trying to imitate it, and both men and women admire it. Beijing's "Zhuzhi Ci" says: "In order to hold tobacco leaves and wild rice, various kinds of purses are made.
I don’t know anyone who passed down the wonderful system, so every family follows the same example. "In addition to purses, men in the Qing Dynasty also hung drapes, fan cases, sachets, knives, spectacle cases and other items around their waists, which had both decorative and practical value. Women wearing these were relatively rare, and they were usually more common. Hang one or two small accessories on the lapel, such as ear picks, toothpicks and small hair tweezers. With the development of the times, changes in clothing and changes in people's cultural psychology, purses have now become people's favorites in cities. Collectibles are still popular only in rural areas and minority areas. One of the main contents of the marriage of Buyi young people is "playing with purses". The purse culture leaves people with not only rich and profound folk art for appreciation. During the Dragon Boat Festival, every family eats rice dumplings, hangs mugwort and calamus on the door, children wear purses and tie five-color silk threads, and there are also many customs such as dragon boat racing, drinking realgar wine, and commemorating Qu Yuan. Apart from eating rice dumplings, the rest are related to exorcising ghosts and evil spirits. Chinese embroidery is famous at home and abroad. It came into being with the feudal society of "men farmed and women weaved", and adapted to the characteristics of the small-scale peasant economy that combined agriculture and handicrafts. The variety covers daily necessities in life, and the content of embroidery reflects almost all aspects of life. Through the intricate, bright and beautiful patterns, people can feel the pure and beautiful feelings of the working people in numerous embroideries. Among the crafts, the most outstanding one is purse embroidery. Shanxi has a long tradition of growing cotton and linen. From the northwest plateau to the Shannan Basin, almost every household has a loom, and women are experts in both labor and housework. , is also skilled in textile embroidery. Rural girls have been practicing embroidery since they were more than ten years old. Naturally, their mother and grandmother were her first teachers. During the long nights in winter and during the free time in spring and autumn, they would draw and embroider on fabrics. , mothers, daughters, and sisters form an exchange of thoughts and feelings through embroidery. When reaching adulthood, each girl is weaving her own dreams. These dreams are the interweaving of love and intention, the fusion of ideals and reality, accompanied by The daughters spend their most passionate and intelligent years, relying on their exquisite embroidery skills to record these colorful dreams and embroider them into purses, such as purses, fan bags, mirror bags or sachets. Give it to your lover. A small purse contains endless affection. It is beautiful and pure, implicit and clear. It is not only the secret of the daughter, but also the representative of the common feelings of mankind in the spring of her daughter. In the process of falling in love, making love, and getting married, these ordinary objects bear special missions. Although the purse is small, it "packages" all the emotions, love, thoughts and love in it, becoming a symbol of folklore and symbolism. Excellent product. If you walk on the Loess Plateau in northwest Shanxi, in the green grassy ditches and rolling hills, you will hear the clear and melodious singing, which will bring you to the simple, beautiful, profound and magnificent art world. It is the embroidered purse that is hung on the Dragon Boat Festival. The children wear the sachet during the Dragon Boat Festival. It not only has the meaning of warding off evil spirits and pestilence, but also has the style of embellishment. The sachet contains cinnabar, realgar, and fragrant medicine, and is wrapped with silk cloth, which is full of fragrance. , and then use five-color silk strings to buckle into ropes, make various shapes, and form a string, all shapes are exquisite and eye-catching. The sachets hanging on the Dragon Boat Festival are also called sachets, sachets, purses, etc. They are made of five-color silk threads or sewn with rags, and are filled with spices (made from the Chinese herbs Angelica dahurica, Chuanxiong, Ligusticum baicalensis, Paicao, Kaempferia spp., and Spicy nard). , made by Gao Benxing), worn on the chest, the fragrance is fragrant. Chen Shiliang's "Sui Shi Guang Ji" quoted from "Sui Shi Za Ji" mentioned a kind of "Duan Wu made of red and white colors like a bag, with colored threads running through it, and the twitching makes it look like a flower." and another kind of "clam pink bell". : "On the fifth day of the Dragon Boat Festival, put clam powder in the silk and decorate it with cotton, like a few beads. Let the children wear it to absorb sweat." The contents of these portable bags have changed several times, from clam powder to absorb sweat, talismans to ward off evil spirits, copper coins, and realgar powder to repel insects, to sachets filled with spices. The production has become increasingly sophisticated, becoming a unique folk custom of the Dragon Boat Festival. Artwork. Wearing a sachet is very particular. In order to prevent diseases and keep fit, the elderly generally like to wear flowers in the shape of plum blossoms, chrysanthemums, peaches, apples, lotus flowers, dolls riding fish, dolls hugging roosters, double lotuses and other shapes, which symbolize the singing of birds and the fragrance of flowers, all the best, love between husband and wife, and family harmony. What children like are birds and animals, such as tigers and leopards; monkeys riding the Yu, fighting cocks, etc. Young people are particularly particular about wearing sachets. If they are passionately in love, the passionate girl will carefully make one or two unique sachets early and give them to her lover before the festival.
Hanging purses on Dragon Boat Festival Shanxi poll Shanxi's famous folk ditty "Embroidered purses": From the first to the fifteenth day of the lunar month, the moon is high on the fifteenth day, and the spring breeze swings the willow and willow branches. In March, the peach blossoms bloom, and my lover brings me a letter, a letter, and a purse. The tune of this kind of folk song has only two lines, and the lyrics have a certain formula, but the content can be added or deleted freely according to the needs of expression and expression. This song begins with a lover sending a letter, to buying needle and thread, choosing silk materials, cutting patterns, and then embroidering. It narrates the entire process of embroidering a purse. The content of the embroidery is also closely related to the surrounding life, expressing the protagonist's specific heart. Emotion: An embroidery is like a boat, with sails on the boat. You can guess the meaning inside. Two embroidered mandarin ducks perch by the river. You lean on each other and I rely on each other. We will never be separated. The song uses images to express feelings. Sometimes it is affectionate, expressing the love for the lover, and sometimes it is a little sad, telling the longing after farewell. Finally, he sings his inner hope: "When you receive this purse, you will come back early." A small purse has become a token of love for young men and women and a symbol of pure and steadfast love. Therefore, when a young man receives this extraordinary gift, he wears it on his body and cherishes it even if he travels far away from home or goes to work. There are many forms of Shanxi folk embroidered purses, most of which are practical applications. The shape and size of the purse depends on the style of the items contained. For example, small mirror bags are round, glasses bags are oval, folding fan bags are rectangular, etc. These clever folk women use their highest enthusiasm and association to turn pictures of beautiful life into embroidery pictures. The purses have various patterns, some are complex and some are simple, such as "Butterflies in Love with Flowers", "Fish Playing with Lotus", "Phoenix Wearing Peonies", "Kilin Sending Children", "Magpies Climbing Plum Blossoms", "Durians Give birth to Hundreds of Sons", These patterns convey their innermost mysteries very implicitly. Sachets account for a considerable proportion in folk purses. Sachets contain medicines such as vanilla. The "Five Poisons" are embroidered on the surface of the sachets, namely scorpions, snakes, centipedes, geckos and toads. They are originally It is a seasonal item during the Dragon Boat Festival in May. In order to prevent various poisonous insects from rampant and invading the human body, people give them to each other and hang them on their clothes or account hooks to avoid the "five poisons". In terms of shape, there are tiger-shaped ones, chicken-shaped ones, wishful-looking ones, longevity peach-shaped ones, and braided-shaped ones, all of which take the meaning of blessing, wealth, longevity, happiness, good luck, wishful thinking, etc. The embroidered purse, which has a profound national psychological foundation, shows strong vitality in folk culture. During the festival, Jingpo girls hang their embroidered purses on bamboo poles with fine velvet, swing them from side to side with branches, and let the boys shoot. Whoever shoots the purse first will sprinkle water on whose mouth it is first. The purse usually contains a coin, a few grains of millet and a few decorative beads as a symbol of happiness. Lyrics of the song about purses "Embroidered Purse" Singer: Unknown Little purse is a double-threaded girl, hangs on the man's waist, girl hangs on the man's waist, small is a small purse, small is a small hanging knife, purse hanging knife, hangs on the man's waist Xiao is Xiaoqingge (Hey) Wait, wait, wait, wait, wait, wait, wait, wait, wait, wait, wait, wait, wait, wait, wait, wait, wait, wait, wait, wait, wait, wait for a purse, bring it to brother, letter, brother, buy thread, send message, brother, buy thread, bring red and green silk thread Buy the purse that the man asked for and embroider it. Brother wears the purse and walks down the street. The little girl follows closely. Follow the little sister closely. Follow closely and embroider the purse. Ah Bao sing8. Han Jiangxue thanks everyone who supports Yue'ergao from the first to the fifteenth day of the new year. The spring breeze is swaying the poplars and willow tops. In March, the peach blossoms are blooming. Lovers are bringing letters. They want a purse, a boat, and a sail on the boat. You have to guess for yourself. Two embroideries. Mandarin ducks are perching by the river. You rely on me and never leave. The moon is high from the first to the fifteenth day of the lunar month. The spring breeze swings the poplars, the willow shoots. The young Chinese girl is like a flower in bloom. I received this purse bag. I received this purse bag. Sir, you have to come back early. You have to come back early to receive this purse. You have to come back early to receive this purse. You have to come back early. The current situation of purses. In the fast-paced life of modern people, they rarely calm down to make handmade purses. Fortunately, some people who love China Insightful people in traditional culture and folk crafts have rediscovered the ancient handicraft purse, giving more and more modern people the opportunity to relive the classics and romance. Allusion: The purse given by the Empress Dowager Dayu'er of the Qing Dynasty to the Regent Dorgon It is of extraordinary significance: it not only represents sincerity but also represents the Qing Dynasty that Dorgon established for Fulin. Once, Qianlong talked to Empress Xiaoxian about the old customs outside the customs. He mentioned that when his ancestors first established their empire, the living conditions were relatively difficult. Clothes were decorated with deer tail down rolled into thread and sewn on the cuffs, instead of the way they are in the palace now. It is delicately embroidered with gold and silver threads.
Qianlong was just talking casually at the time, but Empress Xiaoxian remembered Qianlong's words deeply in her heart. Later, she specially made a flint bag sewn with deer tail down and knitted it into threads and presented it to Qianlong as a token of disapproval. Forget the true nature of Manchuria. Qianlong cherished the flint bag sewn by Empress Xiaoxian and kept it with him. Queen Xiaoxian's frugal style and her true nature were deeply admired and respected by Qianlong.
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