What are the differences between Miao dividend seedlings, white seedlings, young seedlings, flower seedlings and blue seedlings, clothing and so on?

Among all ethnic groups in Guizhou, the headdresses and costumes of the Miao nationality are the most abundant, up to dozens or even hundreds. This is because the Miao nationality has a large population, numerous branches and extremely wide spread, and the headdresses and costumes of different people are quite different. During the Qianlong period of the Qing Dynasty, a tribute map of the Qing Dynasty was compiled. The eighth volume was devoted to the headdresses and costumes of all ethnic groups in Guizhou, almost half of which were Miao, and so was the Hundred Miao Map. In view of the historical conditions at that time, it is impossible for people to have a national identification method based on science, and they can only distinguish according to the most intuitive headdress and clothing, so they are called "red seedlings", "black seedlings", "young seedlings" and "flower seedlings". In order to better understand the headdresses and costumes of the Miao nationality in history, we might as well copy the original books here in order to study their development and changes. It is a book, and Guiyang and Dading are "flower seedlings", which are called "big heads and small flowers". Clothes are dyed by painting flowers on cloth with wax, and the patterns are like brocade when dyed. I have no clothes, so I have to surrender myself and stick to my body. Men wrap their heads in green cloth, and women braid their hair in ponytails, which are as big as a bucket and are gathered in wooden combs "; Tongren House is a "red seedling", "male vertebral bun, about red silk; Women wear purple hats, short dresses and crimson skirts, and the edge is like a brocade belt. " Li Ping and other places are "black seedlings", "their clothes are short and black, their women are long and hairpin, with big rings hanging down, and their skirts are colored and brocade, all of which are full of feet"; "White Miao" in Guiding, Longli, Qianxi and other places, "Men have barefoot heads, while women have long hair, white clothes and short knees"; Xiuwen, Zhenning and other places are "young crops". "His clothes are still green, and he must wear a knife and crossbow when he goes in and out. The woman covered her head with green cloth, decorated with beads and short skirts "; Guizhu, Longli and other places are "East Miao", "the hair is tied with flower towels, and the clothes are shorter than the knees. Women wear flower shawls and wear short skirts"; "West Miao", "Clothes are still green" and "Men and women know the ribbon of Tsing Yi" in Pingyue and Qingping. Pingyao, Ping Huang and other places are "young seedlings", "clothes are still green, left, and women workers are good at dyeing textiles ... Those who live in Chenmeng rotten soil and dam, take wood leaves as clothes and wear short skirts"; Qingping County's "Jiugu Miao", "Men and women's customs and costumes are the same as those of the black Miao, but they are particularly fierce. They take armor as their official clothes and wrap them with iron sheets from the knee down"; Guiding county "flat cutting seedlings", "men wear grass clothes and women wear long skirts"; Dingfan Prefecture's "Valley rush seedlings", "Men and women are short-sleeved ... women wear green cloth and are diligent in spinning, and their cloth is the most fine, which is known as Valley rush cloth"; Li Ping's "Luohan Miao", "The clothes are still black, while the men are not in the room, they put their feathers in the head ... short clothes. ..... The woman sends it out, puts it in a wooden comb and washes it with water for several days. Use gold and silver as chain earrings, use double belts to tie back, long and short skirts, or stop long skirts, and hang a embroidered belt, which is called the tail of clothes "; Duyun, Pingyue and other places are "purple-blue seedlings". "Their clothes are still black, and both men and women are tied with black cloth. Men wear iron armor, swords and guns "; Guang Shun "Kemenggu Sheep Miao", "Male Tsing Yi, vertebral bun, female dish bun, short skirt". In fact, whether it's the tribute map of the Qing dynasty or the map of a hundred seedlings, what is recorded is very rough, and there are many omissions, only 112 of them. If we further consult other historical books and local chronicles, we will have more information, and we can roughly see the main characteristics of Miao headdresses and costumes from these materials. ? As far as hairstyles are concerned, Huai Nan Zi Qi Su Pian said, "Three Miao? ? First ",according to the textual research of A Brief History of Miao Nationality, the so-called"? ? "First" means mixing brown hair, hemp, ponytail, etc. into your hair, and then tying it around your head, just like wearing a big hat on your head. What is the "woman's mane and tail mixed with people's hair" quoted above? As big as a bucket "belongs to this category. But it is not the only pattern. For example, another hairstyle is mentioned in "Xi Man Cong Xiao": "Barbarians don't wear towels, and their hair is all fists, but Miao is different, and the sun shines golden, and each yellow cat has its head." This is probably a kind of shaved hair, that is, the so-called "family head", not only "men have bare heads", but also women in some places have "family heads". However, in the local chronicles of Ming and Qing dynasties, the most common thing is the "cone bun", that is, the hair is coiled on the top of the head like a cone, which is called "pan bun", "wan bun" or "wan bun". If the comb, long hairpin, horn, feather, pheasant tail, silver horn, silver crown, green cloth covered on the head and colored ribbon tied on the head are removed, their hairstyles basically belong to the same type. Of course, there are many styles, for example, some are "tied in a high bun", some are "tied in a double bun", and some are "like oriental heads". From this point of view, although the headgear of Miao nationality is varied, apart from headgear and jewelry, there are mainly "? ? There are three types: head, branch head and cone bun, and cone bun is the most common. ? There is not much difference between men and women in Miao nationality's clothing, which is nothing more than the difference between right-handed shirt, big-breasted shirt and double-breasted shirt. The trouser legs are big and small, long and short, and the head is covered with a head and the feet are wrapped with leggings. The biggest difference is women's clothing, especially the dress of young women can best show their own characteristics. Generally speaking, there are three main types. The most basic and ethnic features are wearing short clothes and pleated skirts, followed by wearing trousers and big-breasted clothes, and then wearing Chinese clothes. The latter two appeared in the process of evolution. Different from the "Baiyue" nationality's custom of wearing a "tube skirt", the Miao nationality's skirt basically belongs to a kind of "pleated skirt", but there are many styles that other nationalities can't match, with different colors, patterns, lengths and textures. Tone seems to be the most striking. The so-called "red seedlings", "white seedlings", "green seedlings", "black seedlings" and "flower seedlings" in history books are nothing more than differentiated by tone. The decorative patterns are also very eye-catching, some are wax paintings, some are embroidery, some are embroidery, some are weaving, and the distinction between "big flower seedlings" and "small flower seedlings" is probably based on the decorative patterns. There are also obvious differences in the length of skirts, some of which are as long as the instep, some only reach the calf, and some are miniskirts above the knee. The so-called "long skirt seedlings" and "short skirt seedlings" are probably distinguished according to this. As for the tops that match skirts, most of them are short coats, but the styles are different, which mainly include the following types: one is the so-called "through-the-head clothes" that are inserted from head to bottom, with collar holes and no sleeves; One is a collarless and buttonless blouse, which crosses the chest left and right and wears a large sleeve shirt inside; The other is a waist-tight right-back garment or a double-breasted garment; In addition, there are "back cards" and "shawls". Miao women in the northeast of Guizhou used to wear pleated skirts, but since the Qing Dynasty, they have gradually changed to trousers and big-breasted clothes, with lace or "railings" on the skirts and trousers. Miao people in Guiyang, Luodian and Duyun generally belong to this type. As for those with Chinese costumes, I don't need to say anything here. It is worth noting that in the same area, even neighboring villages, their costumes are not mixed with each other. For example, long skirts, short skirts and miniskirts coexist in southeastern Guizhou, while big flowers and small flowers coexist in northwestern Guizhou. On the other hand, the Miao people who used to be characterized by certain costumes often preserved their original traditions after moving to other places. For example, some Miao people who moved from southeastern Guizhou to southwestern Guizhou had basically the same costumes as those in southeastern Guizhou. ? Apart from hairstyle and clothing, jewelry also has many differences, including ornaments worn on the head, neck, chest, waist and limbs (mainly hands). At first, Miao ancestors mostly used natural objects as decorations, showing a rough and simple aesthetic feeling. For example, some "white chicken feathers are inserted into the bun", some "white chicken tails or golden pheasant tails are inserted into the male bun for beauty", some "porcupine arrows are used for hair", some "jewelry is decorated with sea and blue white beads" or "five-colored medicinal beads", or even replaced by Coix lachryma-jobi, and some "bamboo tubes are inserted through it three inches obliquely. Later, although there was labor?

The wooden hairpin and comb made from the headdress of Jianhe Miao nationality are used as decoration, and still maintain the primitive and quaint style. About the Ming and Qing Dynasties, the Miao people generally used silver ornaments, and achieved great development, with many kinds and exquisite production, which is rare in China. The silver ornaments worn by Miao people in different places are colorful. For example, the women in Datang, Leishan put three silver flowers in their heads, the women in Longli put a string of silver bubbles of different sizes behind the green handkerchief, and the Miao girls in Ziyun arranged five conical silver ornaments on their heads. The Miao women in Qiaogang, Leishan wore a hat made of silver flowers, silver chains and silver bells, while the Miao women in Shidongkou, Taijiang wore magnificent silver crowns, and the Miao girls in Danzhai wore silver when they dressed up. These are just general remarks. In fact, whether it is collars, necklaces, earrings, bracelets, silver flowers, silver bubbles, silver horns, silver crowns, silver hats and pieces of silver clothes, there are several styles and various combinations, which will be discussed in detail in the chapter on arts and crafts, so we will omit them here. Different headdresses, costumes and jewelry are combined together, and Miao costumes are naturally colorful and dazzling. ? However, in any case, the records of the literature are very limited. If we investigate deeply, the actual differences are far more than that. After a lot of investigations by An Zhengkang, Jiang Zhiyi and Yu Xinzhi, in the book Guizhou Minority Folk Art, there is a section devoted to Miao costume art, which is quite detailed. According to the styles of Miao costumes and Miao dialects, they are divided into five categories: Xiangxi, Qiandong, Zhongnan, Sichuan, Guizhou, Yunnan and Hainan. Except for Hainan I, the other four categories are distributed in Guizhou, and each type is subdivided into several models. The book not only points out the differences of various types of characteristics and patterns, but also points out several typical examples, such as: Taijiang women's clothing, which is famous for embroidery, and Guiyang women's clothing, which is prominent for picking flowers; Weining dress mainly made of wool, women's dresses of Danzhai, Anshun, Qianxi, Zhijin and Ping Huang featuring batik, women's dresses of Zhenfeng and Anlong famous for weaving, women's dresses of Leishan, Taijiang, Ping Huang and Kaili with the most silver ornaments, etc. ? Taijiang Miao cattle? "Qiandong-style" Miao costumes with angular silver ornaments are mainly distributed in Qiandongnan Miao and Dong Autonomous Prefecture, which is the most distinctive and complicated type of Miao costumes. Generally speaking, the characteristics of this type are: self-woven homespun is used as clothing material, and the basic forms of clothing are collared tops and pleated skirts. The tops are embroidered and the silver ornaments are particularly rich. Belonging to this type, there are Taijiang tunnel, Taijiang reverse row, Taijiang arch, Taijiang rock slab, Taijiang Wujiao, Taijiang Wuhe, Jianhe hot spring, Leishan Xijiang, Leishan Bridge Hong Kong-style, Kaili Zhouxi, Kaili Kaitang, Ping Huang Gulong, Danzhai Mopai, Danzhai Longquan, Congjiang Basha, etc. Because the Miao people in Zhenfeng moved from Ping Huang, their costumes also belong to this type. It is not difficult to see that the "Miaojia Hinterland" retains the most traditions and is particularly rich in styles. Taijiang has six styles, followed by Leishan, Danzhai and Kaili. The clothing of Shidong in Taijiang is typical. It is famous for its embroidery and silver ornaments, which can quite reflect the characteristics of "Qiandong style". Women wear a bun on the top, and the bun is covered with self-woven red, blue and white flowers. A circle of silver flowers is placed on the periphery of the handkerchief. A silver crown with a height of about 3 cm is inserted on the bun, and various kinds of silver flowers and silver hairpin are inserted on both sides of the crown. After the bun, a silver comb is inserted, four or five silver necklaces are worn, two or three silver necklaces are worn, and a semicircular silver collar is placed on the chest. The back, front swing, shoulders and shoulders of the coat. Embroidery is also excellent. The embroidered flower on the outside of the middle of the sleeves is the most dazzling part of the whole body. The collar and shoulders are equipped with wide embroidered edges. The embroidery patterns are mostly dragons, phoenixes, cows, figures and fish, and the colors are red, crimson or purple. They wear a bluish-white pleated skirt and embroidered shoes with upturned feet. The perfect combination of silver ornaments and embroidery constitutes the characteristics of Shidong clothing. ?

The Miao family welcomes guests in silver, but the Taijiang cave-digging style is only one kind of "Qiandong style" after all, and all other styles have their own characteristics, showing their uniqueness from different aspects. Women of the Miao nationality in Taijiang also wear silver crowns, but the skirt is not as long as 7 centimeters below the knee as a cave, but a short skirt only six or seven centimeters below the knee, with a square waist of green cloth tied around the waist, and a large skirt, collarless and long sleeves. The arch of Taijiangtai is different. The clothes are made of self-woven and self-dyed "pepper cloth", embroidered into sleeve flowers with unique crepe embroidery and petal embroidery methods, which has a sense of relief, and embroidered into a rectangular waist with green satin or white cloth. Taijiang rock plate has two special features; First, there is a horizontal silver flower inserted in the bun, and a row of golden pheasants stand high on the flower; Second, the skirt is ultra-short and pleated, with 3 to 4 layers of pleats, and a waist with a black and white woven pattern is covered outside. Taijiang witch's feet style is relatively simple, with a big bun at the top, and then a purple-green cloth is used to wrap it around the forehead from back to front, while a towel is put over the shoulders and back to keep out the wind. Five Rivers in Taijiang and Jianhe Hot Springs are basically the same style, with a circle of silver flowers on their heads and a golden pheasant inserted in their bun. The sleeve flowers are composed of six square woven patterns, with patterns on both shoulders, and an inverted "pin" pattern on the back, with two-thirds of the waist being a large pattern. The Xijiang style of Leishan is characterized by the most prominent silver horn, and another feature is wearing a floral skirt outside the skirt, which is composed of 22 embroidered ribbons. The most prominent Hong Kong style of Leishan Bridge is the miniskirt, which is only 2 cm long, with thin and thick pleats, which makes the hip circumference appear extra large. The front of the skirt is a knee-high square waist, and the back is a wide pleated square satin, wearing blue leggings. Kaili's Zhouxi hairstyle is different. At the front of the bun, it is made into a wavy hat-brim hairstyle, which is high on the right and low on the left, and it is shiny. Kaili Kaitang style is notable for its numerous and large silver collars. It wears four kinds of collars, the smallest of which is round, the second layer is round with rolled flowers, the third layer is square with rolled flowers, and the fourth layer is the largest, with a width of 4 cm. The lower end is hung with neatly arranged silver flowers and silver bells, and a thick necklace is hung. The Gulong-style big silver hat in Ping Huang is the most distinctive. The hat is made up of four layers of silver flowers. It is exquisitely carved and exquisitely carved, making it look dazzling. Zhenfeng-style clothing styles are the same as those in Ping Huang, but the colors of the clothes, regardless of men, women and children, are based on black, and the embroidery is simple and elegant. Danzhai Paimo wears a "mountain"-shaped silver crown with a bunch of white chicken feathers at the top, and the batik sleeves used are all traditional "vortex" patterns. Longquan style in Danzhai is a loquat lapel coat, which is cyan, small collar and button, only 35 cm long, and does not cover the abdomen. The style is unusual. From Jiangbasha style, the clothes are short to the belly, tight-fitting, with slender sleeves, an inverted triangle embroidered belly wrapped under the abdomen, and blue trousers are worn. The most unique feature of Rongjiang Pingyong style is "Feather with Skirt", which is medium in length and fine in pleats, with vertical batik and green cloth alternating, and each pattern is divided into three horizontal segments, with red, yellow or red and blue between segments, and two bundles of white feather with skirt are tied at the lower end of each flower, hence the name "Feather with Skirt". ? The Miao costume in Huaxi, Guiyang, refers to the Miao costumes in Guiyang, Longli, Guiding, Qingzhen, Pingba, Anshun, Changshun and Anlong. It has the characteristics of eastern and western costumes, and women wear blue pleated skirts or batik skirts on their tops. According to the preliminary investigation, there are Guiyang Huaxi Style, Guiyang-Longli Style, Longli Style, Guiding Guidong Style, Guiding Yunwushan Style, Qing (town) Pingba Style, An (shun) Qing (town) Style, Anshun Pass Style and Anlong Lugou Style. Guiyang Huaxi style can be regarded as a typical example, where women use a colorful ribbon to tie their hair behind their heads, and after the bun, they obliquely insert a row of silver hairpin forward, with more than ten pieces, shaped like chopsticks. The top coat is a top coat with a short front and a long back. Because its neckline is inlaid with a white cloth edge, it is like a flag, so it is named "flag suit". The front and back of the garment piece are not sewn together, and the sleeves are only connected with the upper part of the garment shoulder. The chest is tied with a cross-shaped embroidered belt, with a pleated blue middle skirt and a waist with embroidered flowers reaching the instep. The belt is also embroidered, with a row of white beads hanging from the lower end, three groups of silver chains and bells tied at the upper end, and the feet are wrapped with embroidered leggings. The whole garment is characterized by embroidered flowers. In the Miao nationality in Guiyang, which is adjacent to Longli, Guiding and Huishui, women tie their hair in a bun.