Common sense for using Nikon cameras

1. How to use Nikon digital cameras

There are many models of Nikon digital cameras. Here we take Nikon D7000 as an example to illustrate the video recording function.

Tools/materials: Nikon d7000

Operation method:

1. Setting of camera parameters. First click the "menu" on the left side of the camera to bring up "Animation Settings" and select the desired animation quality.

2. After exiting the animation quality setting, you can see "Microphone" and "Target Location Options", where you can set the sound volume during recording and the location where the video is stored.

3. Set aperture parameters. Turn to the mode dial. Generally, when shooting video, set it to the p position, which is the program priority mode.

4. Start shooting. Flip the LV switch on the right and click the red button to start shooting.

5. End shooting. Just click the red button on the right again.

6. Click the play button on the upper left to see the video you just shot.

2. I would like to popularize the knowledge of SLR, and recommend the camera to be used. I am a novice

I have helped my friends choose D3100 and D7000. There are many things to choose from, depending on what you use them for. If there are different ideas, different functions, and different suitable groups for novices, I will be more wordy: 1. SLR is a single-lens reflex camera. Simply put, it is a traditional classic mechanical, high-end, reflector camera. The film is replaced by a digital camera with a digital sensor. It has advantages in many performances (speed, latitude, depth of field, high sensitivity) that card cameras cannot match. However, it is limited by the length and whether novices can understand it. This is on Baidu There is a detailed explanation of the principle on the encyclopedia. Newbies can just think of it as "what you see through the viewfinder is what you take. It takes pictures very quickly (3 to 8 pictures per second) and is expensive." 2 . You can talk about what you usually like to shoot (portraits, scenery, still life, etc.), how often you will use the camera after buying it, do you often travel, and how much do you plan to invest in the camera in the future? We can help you answer the questions when buying a SLR. There are many parameters that you need to look at. We will give you some suggestions about the parameters: SLRs are very expensive. You have to choose slowly according to your needs. There are too many parameters for SLRs. Here are a few key parameters for you. Things worth spending money on: 1. The size of the photosensitive element: Rookies will say that the higher the pixels, the better, and veterans will say that the bigger the photosensitive element is, the better. The larger the photosensitive element means the better the performance at high sensitivities and the higher the tolerance. CMOS is better than CCD. Remember: higher pixels are definitely not better. Pixels are only for reference. Image quality is related to the body and lens! 2. Focus system: The more focus points, the better. The more cross focus points under the same focus point, the better the performance. The focus system is very useful for snapshots and capturing fast shots. It is one of the main parameters of a SLR. 3. Body , small ones, plastic ones are relatively low-end, large ones, metal ones are relatively high-end. If you are really confused about various parameters, this is a sure and effective judgment standard. 4. Is there a body-mounted focus motor? If there is a focus motor, it can focus automatically. Otherwise, you can only use a lens with a focus motor or manual focus. This determines whether you can use a cost-effective low-end lens. Lenses with motors are very expensive, and they are slower than focusing on the body, and they are relatively high-end, so you have to be careful. Consider 5. Viewfinder coverage. This is optical performance and is very important! The wider the range, the better. High-end cameras are basically 1006. The continuous shooting speed determines the capture performance, and the processor model affects the final image quality (the newer the processor, the better). 7. The image quality of full-frame cameras and half-frame cameras , there is a qualitative difference in tolerance, and it is also very important for lens selection. 8. Whether you have money to buy a good lens is the decisive factor in the final photo quality. 9. Body anti-shake: It is very important to have an anti-shake body. Convenient 10. High sensitivity performance: Night scene (especially sunrise and sunset) shooting is very important. This depends on the specific body comparison. The actual effect has little relationship with the parameters and is not worth spending money on. Features: 1. The video camera CMOS works continuously It will affect the lifespan and has little practical significance. After all, what you bought is a camera, not a DV, right? 2. LCD resolution: Photos will look the same on a computer. After all, you will eventually use a computer instead of a camera to appreciate the work. 3. Excessively high shutter speed: For example, the difference between a 1\4000 second shutter and a 1\8000 second shutter It's not big, that one is used to shoot bullets going through apples or something.

4. Dust removal system: Without good usage habits, no matter how good the dust removal system is, it will have to be taken to the after-sales service for cleaning. 5. Whether to flip the screen: It’s basically a gimmick. 6. Feel and appearance: Different people have different opinions. Everyone’s feelings are different. What you think is a “professional” body may be considered “bulky” by others. .

7. Choice of N and C: If you are a novice in terms of price, it doesn’t matter which one you choose. As a Canon black person, I think the low-end Nikon is more kind. If you want to play high-end, you should choose Canon. Low-end The Pentax is very cost-effective and worth considering (purely personal opinion). As for the specific model, novices do not need to spend too much or be extravagant. After saving the money, it will not be too late to buy a good machine when the technology matures, and it will preserve its value: I personally recommend the D3100 18 105, which is powerful enough. , especially for newcomers, it has an introductory guidance function, which is very considerate. A friend of mine just bought a set of this kind of phone, and now he is happily traveling in Beijing. Or: Pentax KR set, which is powerful enough for newcomers. Supplement: If you want to learn from the photography website, you can go to the famous domestic pornographic film. If Hummingbird is willing to ask for advice, there are still experts there, but there are often outbreaks of saliva. If you are in deep water, I recommend the "New York School of Photography Textbook" to you. ", a very classic introductory book. After reading the first half of this book, you will naturally know what camera and lens you need. I hope it can help.

3. Common sense about using SLR camera filters

Common sense about camera attachment lenses Cameras can be equipped with additional lenses, which can provide other functions and special effects.

There are many types of additional lenses. Let’s talk about the more common ones below. (1) UV mirror.

UV mirror is the most commonly used additional mirror. It is mainly used to reduce the intake of ultraviolet rays. This is of great significance when using film, because film is more sensitive to ultraviolet rays. Now it mainly serves as lens protection.

Now there is another type of MC mirror, which is called lens protection mirror. (2) Polarizer (PL, CPL) When it comes to polarizers, everyone seems to be unfamiliar with them. In fact, we all use them around us: all liquid crystal display devices must use polarizing filters, otherwise you will not see anything. .

The lens of the polarizer for cameras is dark gray, and there is a layer of oriented crystal film sandwiched between the glass sheets. From the appearance, it is slightly thicker than ordinary filters. In the photography process, polarizer is probably the most commonly used filter. Its lens can be rotated to gradually reduce reflected light and spots.

It is often used to filter out the reflected light from glass windows to make the glass clearer and more transparent. It is also used to filter out the polarized light in the sky to make the contrast between the sky clearer and more realistic. In addition, polarizers are often used to eliminate glare and reflected light from non-metallic surfaces.

At present, it seems that polarizer has become a necessary equipment for cameras. (3) Neutral gray mirror, (ND) In ??some environments where the light is too bright, such as seaside, snow, desert, etc., even though the exposure combination has reached the limit (that is, the amount of light entering has been minimized), moderate exposure still cannot be achieved .

At this time, in order to adapt the brightness of the scene to the exposure combination, it is necessary to use a neutral gray filter that can reduce the brightness to generally reduce the brightness of the scene to the brightness required for exposure. This kind of neutral gray filter that reduces brightness is generally indispensable in film shooting.

The main functions of the neutral gray filter are: 1. Reduce the amount of light. If you want to use a large aperture under strong light, for example, if you want to use a large aperture to blur the front and rear backgrounds under strong light, you can add neutral gray. 2. If you want to lower the shutter speed when the EV value is high, for example, if you want to shoot a dynamic (dynamic blur) effect in a very bright place, you can add a neutral density filter. 3. When traveling or on the street, adding an appropriate neutral gray filter can extend the exposure time, blur moving objects and pedestrians in the background, and have a special effect of highlighting the subject.

(4) Starlight Mirror This is a more interesting filter. This is a thin line with squares, triangles, and rice shapes engraved on the lens. The starlight mirror will slightly soften the image. It can turn the light source in the picture into many star points, creating a romantic and childlike mood.

Using it when shooting night scenes can make the night lights appear in a cross, six-star or rice-shaped light, which enhances the rendering effect. (5) Concentric circles or other forms of stripes are made on the soft lens lens to increase diffuse light and make the photo soft and hazy.

Commonly used when taking portraits.

Sometimes, soft images can create more atmosphere and give people a sense of beauty than clear images.

The soft lens is suitable for portrait shooting and landscape shooting. It can inhibit and beautify the skin, wrinkles or facial flaws of the portrait. Soft light mirror can bring you a soft and romantic atmosphere and interpret gentle themes for you.

This effect is often impossible to achieve with software, because it expresses softening through clarity, not blur. (6) Wide-angle lens: A wide-angle lens can shorten the focal length, increase the shooting angle of view, and thereby increase the shooting range.

The 0.5X and 0.7X marked on the lens mean that the focal length is changed to 0.5 or 0.7 times the original. For example, a lens with an original focal length of 35~ is added with a 0.7X wide-angle lens back focal length. The range becomes 28~. (7) Teleconverter Lens The teleconverter can increase the focal length of the camera and increase the telephoto capability of the camera.

The teleconverter marked 2X on the lens doubles the focal length. It is also a 35~105nm lens, and with the addition of a 2X teleconverter, the focal length range becomes 70~ . The original 3x optical zoom camera has become 6x, and the shooting distance naturally increases accordingly.

`The above seven types of additional mirrors are currently more commonly used, and there are several others, which are basically stunt mirrors. Because now digital photos can be post-produced on computers, and these effects are generally produced on computers, the use of these additional lenses is also correspondingly used, and production is reduced.

Here are some for reference: (8) The split mirror lens is thicker and can be ground into various forms of prisms. When used, the scene can be divided into the same pieces to achieve special effects. Effect. (9) Close-up lens The close-up lens has a convex front and a slightly concave back. It looks like a magnifying glass and is a shooting accessory similar to a filter.

If a close-up lens is attached in front of a standard lens, its focal length will immediately change, because the slightly concave back of the close-up lens can reduce field curvature to a certain extent. Usually close-up lenses are calibrated by diopter, such as: 1, 2, 3, etc. (Tip: Diopter 1 is 100 degrees of aging glasses, diopter 2 is 200 degrees of aging glasses...).

The larger the diopter value, the higher the magnification. This kind of lens does not need to be adjusted for exposure compensation during operation, and can be used alone or in combination. It is very convenient and cheap.

However, the aberration of the close-up lens cannot be completely eliminated. Since the lens is an add-on to the lens, it may slightly affect the clarity of the photo. (10) Half close-up mirror Half close-up mirror has a close-up lens in one half, and the other half is empty.

The half of the close-up lens can capture nearby images clearly, while the other half is normal and can focus on distant subjects normally, thus ensuring that a very close and very far object can be in focus at the same time. Everything on the screen is clear, creating an effect of huge depth of field. Using a semi-close-up lens can also make the other half of the picture completely out of focus. Usually combined with a large aperture, it can produce a special depth of field effect.

(11) Hollow mirror The center of the hollow mirror is a piece of transparent glass with stripes or gray around it. The effect of using this lens is that the scenery in the middle is clear and the surrounding scenery is blurry, as if it has been processed by a filter, making the photo full of artistic effects.

It is a rather special filter. According to the final shooting effect, it can be divided into many different types such as hollow atomizing lens, hollow soft focus lens, and hollow close-up lens.

Shooting with this filter can highlight the subject very well, but it is worth noting that the aperture should not be closed too small, otherwise there will be a serious edge boundary between the blurred part around and the clear part in the middle.

4. What are the common sense for getting started with SLR cameras?

18 things to note when learning digital SLR cameras 1. The black corners of photos taken with a wide-angle lens are mainly due to the flash coverage and the wide-angle lens. The field of view does not match.

Most of the flash coverage of old-fashioned flash designs can only be matched with a 35mm small wide-angle lens. The field of view of a 28mm wide-angle lens is 12 degrees larger than that of a 35mm lens, so the surrounding areas of the screen are not exposed to light and become black. There are two ways to prevent it. One is to add a diffuser cover to the light to turn the flash into scattered light to expand the coverage; the other is to cover the lamp head with white gauze to allow the light to scatter so that the entire picture can receive even light.

2. The picture tone is blurry. After ruling out the reasons such as camera failure and hand shake, it is necessary to check whether the lens is covered with dust or stained by stains. If this happens, avoid blowing with your mouth or wiping with a towel.

Use a blower to blow away the dust on the lens, then use a lens brush to remove debris, and finally wipe it with lens paper to make the lens bright as new. If there are still sweat stains, fingerprints and oil stains, take it to a camera repair shop to carefully remove it with lens cleaning fluid.

3. There are two possibilities for the subject being blurry but the background being clear and discernible. One is that when the manual focus camera is focusing, the focus is not on the subject or the subject has moved its position in the composition after focusing. Refocus so that the subject is not within the depth of field; secondly, when using an autofocus camera, you do not press the shutter button to "lock" the focus and then recompose, causing the focus to drift elsewhere in the composition. 4. The first few rows of group photos are clear, but the last few rows are blurry. For multi-row photos, to ensure that everyone's image is clear, three things must be done: First, selective focus.

If there are five rows of people taking a group photo, choose the second row to focus; if there are seven rows of people taking a group photo, choose the third row of people to focus. Second, do not set the aperture too large, generally f4-8 is appropriate to ensure sufficient depth of field.

Third, the shutter speed should not be lower than 1/60 second to prevent someone’s head from turning and blurring the image. 5. The film is not exposed. There are two main reasons: First, the camera forgets to take off the lens cover when shooting. The scene in the viewfinder is clear, but the imaging light does not enter the lens, and the film is not sensitive.

The second is that the 135 SLR camera that manually rolls the film does not load the film in place, and does not pay attention to whether the cassette film shaft is rotating accordingly when rolling the film. Due to the slippage of the film leader, when the film take-up handle was moved, although the shutter was wound and the counter continued to count, the film did not move at all in the cassette. Although the counter showed that 36 shots had been taken, in fact, none of the film was exposed to light.

6. There are two main reasons why there are dark shadows in the four corners of the photo: First, the lens hood does not match the focal length of the lens. Using the 50mm standard lens hood on a 28mm focal length wide-angle lens will block the light entering the lens.

Because the field of view of the header is 47 degrees, while the field of view of the 28mm wide-angle lens is 75 degrees. Second, when shooting with a 28mm wide-angle lens, a UV lens is already worn on the lens. If you wear a polarizer, because the polarizer is made of two pieces of glass, the frame is very thick, plus the frame of the UV lens. , will inevitably block the light entering the lens, making the corners of the photo black.

If you need to use a polarizer when shooting with a wide-angle lens, you must first remove the UV lens and then install the polarizer to ensure that the picture receives even light. 7. The tone is dead white or dark, and lacks shadow gradation. No matter the photo is black and white or color, only by accurate exposure can you obtain bright tone and rich gradation.

A white photo means overexposure; a dark photo means underexposure. The in-camera metering system is designed based on a mid-gray reflectivity of 18. It can accurately expose most scenes and restore colors. However, when encountering certain special lights or scenes, corrections need to be made based on metering.

If you don’t increase the exposure by 1.5-2 levels when shooting snow scenes, the white snow will become off-white; if you don’t reduce the exposure by 1.5-2 levels when shooting coal, black coal will turn into dark gray. Because no matter how advanced the camera is, it has no thinking function and will only treat all scenery as a medium gray tone with a reflectivity of 18.

8. Photos taken with electronic flash are still underexposed. There are two reasons: First, the aperture setting is too small. The flash speed of the flash is generally above 1/1000 seconds, and the shutter has lost its light control function, and the exposure is mainly controlled by the aperture size.

When taking pictures without automatic flash, you must first calculate the aperture coefficient. Second, the flash has insufficient power.

A newly purchased flash lamp needs to be charged and discharged more than ten times to make the capacitor in the lamp active before it can be used officially. The old flashlight charging signal light only charges 70% when ignited. It can only be fully charged for normal use after 10 seconds of ignition.

9. In the photos taken by the SLR camera with flash, half of the picture is black. This is because the curtain shutter of the SLR camera is out of sync with the flash. When taking photos with a flash on a SLR camera, pay attention to the camera's flash synchronization (each camera has different speeds).

10. The background of the portrait photo is clear and gorgeous, but the person’s face is dark. First, average metering is used when shooting backlight, and there is no fill light for the person’s face; second, the background is bright (snow, desert, beach), use The data recommended by the internal light meter was used for exposure. The background was moderately exposed and the characters were underexposed. There are three ways to solve this problem: one is to use a flash to fill in the light for the person; the other is to increase the exposure by 1-2 steps based on the metering; the third is to get close to the person and meter the face to "lock" the exposure. After measuring (using the metering memory button or changing to manual exposure), return to the original position to compose the picture, focus, and shoot.

11. In a group photo, the surrounding people are incomplete. There are two situations. One is that the parallax is ignored when shooting with a head-up viewfinder camera, and the picture is too full; the other is that although the SLR camera is used without parallax, the picture is There was no room left on the surrounding sides. During the enlarging process, some of the images were suppressed by the surrounding areas. The color enlarging machine only enlarged about 95% of the frame of the negative. So no matter what camera you use, you have to leave some leeway when composing your shot.

Do not allow characters to stand tall and fill the screen. 12. There are scratches on the photo. If there are scratches on the negative, it may be caused by two situations.

First, the old cassette used for packaging large discs was contaminated, and there were sand particles on the flannel at the film exit, which scratched the film; second, there were burrs on the pressing plate behind the camera, and the film was scratched. film. Before using the repackaging roll, it is best to retract the film leader into the film box, use a blower and a brush to carefully clean the flannel at the film outlet, and then pull out the film leader for use.

If there are burrs on the camera pressure plate, use a small piece of No. 0 sandpaper to carefully remove them (be careful not to scratch the paint film on the pressure plate). 13. The entire photo has a bluish tone. First, the color temperature is very high.

On cloudy days or when thin clouds cover the sun, the color temperature of natural light is as high as 7000-.

5. Introduction to SLR cameras

There are many, many, many. Let me introduce you to some of the most basic ones first. Start with the letters, you'll definitely need them later.

M is a manual mode. You can set the shutter aperture combination for shooting, and of course the white balance, etc. You can set it all by yourself.

A is aperture priority, which means you can pre-set the aperture value you need. The camera will give you the corresponding shutter value based on metering, and you can set the white balance, etc. by yourself.

T(S) is shutter priority, which is similar to aperture priority, except that the shutter is preset first, and then the camera gives the corresponding aperture, and you can set the white balance, etc. yourself.

P is program exposure. The aperture and shutter are provided by the camera, but you can set the white balance, etc. by yourself.

There is also a green or red mark, which means automatic mode, or there may be some words AUTO, which means fully automatic. All parameters are given by the camera, and all the photographer has to do is press the shutter.

These are basic things. I suggest you read the camera manual first. Before taking pictures, you must first master the performance of your own camera.

Photography is not something that can be explained clearly in one or two sentences. If you have the opportunity, I will read more about photography-related knowledge, which is accumulated and improved slowly by taking more photos. Beginners can start with photography composition.

Use more brains when taking photos. Only photographers with rich ideas can take wonderful photos instead of just clicking the shutter.

Finally, I wish the poster can take good photos through continuous learning and take photos that he likes.

6. Knowledge and usage of SLR camera lenses

Various parameter indicators and their meanings of SLR camera lenses in digital cameras. Each company’s logo is different. The meaning of the lens logo ( Canon) AFD: Arc-Form Drive Arc motor is an arc-shaped DC motor developed for the AF drive of early EF lenses.

Unlike the USM motor, the AFD motor focuses with sound. DO: Multi-Layer Diffractive Optical Element Multi-layer diffractive optical element Canon announced on September 4, 2000 that it had successfully developed the world's first "multi-layer diffractive optical element" used in camera lenses.

Multi-layer diffractive optical lenses have the characteristics of both fluorite and aspherical lenses, so the launch of this lens is a milestone in the optical industry. The most important characteristic of diffractive optical elements is that the position of the wavelength composite image is opposite to that of the refractive optical element.

In the same optical system, combining an MLDOE with a refractive optical element can correct dispersion (color diffusion) more effectively than a fluorite element. Moreover, by adjusting the pitch (gap) of the diffraction grating, diffractive optical elements can have the same optical properties as ground and polished aspherical lenses, effectively correcting spherical and other aberrations.

Representative lens: EF 400/4 DO IS USM EF: Electronic Focus. The name of the mount for Canon EOS cameras, and also the series name of the original EOS lens. EMD: Electronic-Magic Diaphragm Electromagnetic aperture The electromagnetic drive aperture control element of all EF lenses is an integrated component of a deformation stepper motor and aperture blades. It is controlled by digital signals and has high sensitivity and accuracy.

FL: Fluorite is a calcium fluoride crystal with extremely low dispersion, and its ability to control chromatic aberration is better than UD lenses. Strictly speaking, fluorite is not glass, but a crystal.

It has a low refractive index (1.4) and is not affected by moisture. Fluorite lenses are generally not exposed to the outside, so you are unlikely to come into direct contact with them.

Fluorite lenses are not as impact-resistant as ordinary glass, but they are not as fragile as imagined, so they do not require special care during use. FTM: Full-time Manual Focusing means that no matter when, even when the lens is auto-focusing, you can manually adjust the focus without damaging the lens.

L: Luxury, the hallmark of Canon professional lenses. Compared with consumer-grade lenses, L-head lenses have ground aspherical lenses, UD (low dispersion), SUD (super-low dispersion) or fluorite (fluorite) lenses, which are an important basis for the excellent optical quality of the lens.

The build quality of the lens is generally much better as well. Its logo is the red reticle on the front of the lens, which is Canon's high-end professional lens.

Representative lens: EF70-200/2.8 LU IS: Image Stabilizer Image stabilizer reduces the impact of hand shake on imaging by correcting the movement of optical components, so it is also called an anti-shake lens. The IS lens is equipped with a gyro sensor that detects hand vibration and converts it into an electrical signal. This signal is processed by the computer built into the lens and controls a set of correction optical components to move parallel to the film plane. Counteract the imaging light shift caused by hand shaking.

This system can effectively improve the effect of handheld shooting. In general, IS lenses allow you to use a shutter speed two stops lower than theoretically. In other words, when you use an ordinary 300mm lens, you can only choose a speed above 1/250 seconds, but with a 300mm IS lens, you can take clear photos in 1/60 seconds.

Representative lens: EF28-135/3.5-5.6 U IS MM: Micro-Motor This is a traditional motor with a transmission shaft. It consumes more electricity.

Full Time Manual (FTM) is not supported. Mostly used for cheap low-end lenses.

SF: Soft Focus soft focus lens. Photos taken with this lens are very different from the effect of camera movement or inaccurate focusing. It uses deliberately designed spherical aberration to make the subject It's both sharp in focus and soft and beautiful. The soft focus effect varies depending on the aperture size and the special adjustment device.

Representative lens: EF135/2.8SF S-UD: Super Ultra-low Dispersion High-performance ultra-low dispersion lens. A piece of S-UD is roughly the same as using a piece of fluorite lens. TS: Tilt Shift Lens that moves the optical axis of the lens to adjust perspective.

In addition to correcting perspective distortion, the tilt-shift lens can also adjust the position of the focal plane. Under normal circumstances, the focal plane of the camera is parallel to the film plane. When shooting with a large aperture, the scene on the focal plane will be clear and the out-of-focus scene will be blurry. If you use a tilt-shift lens to adjust the focal plane, the sharp point can be changed.

Obviously, tilt-shift lenses are best for architectural, landscape, and commercial photography. EF tilt-shift lenses do not have AF function.

Canon’s TS lenses currently include TS-E24/3.5L, TS-E45/2.8 and TS-E90/2.8. UD: Ultra-low Dispersion is a special type of optics Glass, due to its ability to control the dispersion of light in the spectrum, is widely used to control chromatic aberration in lenses. Using two pieces of UD together has roughly the same effect as using one piece of fluorite lens.

USM/U: Ultrasonic Motor is the type of focus motor used in most EF lenses. It uses a vibration source with a frequency in the ultrasonic range to rotate. It is the main component to achieve quiet and high-speed AF. There are two types of ultrasonic motors for EF lenses, ring ultrasonic motor (Ring-USM) and micro ultrasonic motor (Micro-USM).

Lenses that use ultrasonic motors have a yellow ring on the front end, marked "ULTRASONIC". The ring ultrasonic motor is a focus motor used in Canon's mid-to-high-end USM lenses. Its driving element is ring-shaped and does not require the use of any transmission parts such as gears when driving.

Due to the large torque, the starting and braking speeds are much faster than ordinary focus motors. Full-time manual operation can only be achieved in ring-shaped ultrasonic motor heads. Please note that EF 200/1.8L, EF 500/4.5L, EF 600/4L, EF 50/1.0L, EF 85/1.2L, etc. cannot achieve full-time manual operation. .

The micro ultrasonic motor is a small cylindrical ultrasonic motor. It is not as fast and quiet as the ring ultrasonic motor, and it cannot be manually focused full-time. However, due to its lower manufacturing cost, it is more commonly used in On low to mid-range EF lenses. Nikon's answer to your previous question does not take up space. Pentax lens explanation: A: A series manual focus lenses.

AF/MF: full manual/auto focus switching. AL: Aspherical aspherical lens.

CF Micro:.

7. Ask for common sense about SLR cameras

The first choice for entry-level SLRs is the Pentax k-x, which has excellent cost performance. The licensed set only costs about 4,000. Its powerful metal frame body is all plastic from other brands. The overall performance of the camera body is incomparable and exceeds that of other brands by more than 5,000. Pentax is a long-standing manufacturer and the first to simultaneously produce 135 SLRs (currently the mainstream SLRs we use, including full-frame, belong to the 135 category) camera bodies and Lens manufacturer Pentax was once synonymous with SLR cameras. To this day, many large and medium-format Pentax SLR cameras are still in use, so its capabilities and reputation are unquestionable

Pentax k-x is a very A cost-effective camera with 12 million effective pixels, it has reached the mainstream level with Nikon's mid-range and even high-end models. In fact, the CMOS used by Pentax k-x is also manufactured for Sony and is the same model used by Nikon's mid-range D90, so the k-x The main performance is the same as that of D90. The difference is that k-x is aimed at entry-level users, so it omits the shoulder screen that is rarely used by entry-level users. Now it displays shooting parameters on the LCD and Pentax's unique SR body anti-shake technology. And the body motor drive system also allows Pentax to put more resources into the optical part under the framework of cost control when manufacturing lenses without having to reserve the cost of lens anti-shake components and lens drive components. Therefore, Pentax’s kit lens ( Refers to the 18-55 socket) Although the price is the cheapest among various manufacturers, the optical performance is probably the best. Only Pentax uses top-level SMC coating on this positioning socket. Other manufacturers basically use this level of coating technology. Putting it on mid-range lenses and above, and the SR body anti-shake technology has another positive meaning. When you expand the lens in the future, especially fixed focus and telephoto lenses, you don’t need to worry about the lack of anti-shake technology or the expensiveness of the anti-shake lens. The anti-shake component on the body perfectly solves this problem for you. You can focus more on the shooting itself instead of running around to control costs