Beauty of Cheongsam and Tea Culture

Cheongsam, with its flowing melody, chic painting and rich poetry, shows the virtuous, elegant, gentle and beautiful women in China. Cheongsam follows the times, carries civilization, shows self-cultivation, embodies virtue, and evolves into a gorgeous rainbow between heaven and earth. Cheongsam connects the past and the future, life and art, and spreads the vision and charm of beauty to the whole world.

The history of cheongsam bears the modern civilization of China, and shows China women's pursuit of beauty and their desire for freedom.

1929, the government of the Republic of China decided that cheongsam was one of the national clothes.

Tracing the origin of cheongsam

Cheongsam is a noble costume in history, and the modern cheongsam, which was born in the early 20th century and prevailed in 1930s and 40s, is the representative of women's costume in China. As the name implies, cheongsam is the robe of the flag bearer of the Qing Dynasty. However, there is evidence that cheongsam originated from a kind of robe called jujube cheongsam, and its origin can be traced back to the deep clothes in the Spring and Autumn Period and the Warring States Period. Banner robe and jujube cheongsam are not a fixed form, but a process of change and development. Therefore, although it seems that there is no big mistake to regard cheongsam as the robe of the flag bearer or the robe of the flag girl, it is inevitable that it is a whitewash.

At the beginning of the 20th century, the political situation in China was ups and downs. The Revolution of 1911 abolished the imperial system, established the Republic of China, cut braids, changed colors, destroyed it, and sent the crown service hierarchy belonging to the feudal dynasty to the history museum, all of which created conditions for the extension of the new cheongsam.

The development of cheongsam

Under the strong feudal ethical atmosphere, it is impossible for women to show their curves as they do now. Traditional cheongsam has always been cut in a straight line, with the chest, shoulders, waist and buttocks completely straight, and the curves of women's bodies are not exposed. Although cheongsam evolved from Manchu women's robes, or flag clothing or flag clothing, cheongsam is not a flag clothing. Cheongsam is a fashion with China characteristics, which embodies western aesthetics and adopts western tailoring. Flag dress is the national costume of Manchu women. Most flags are straight, with loose bodies and split sides. The waistline of the chest is close to the size of the dress, and there are a lot of piping decorations at the cuffs and neckline. Yellow is the exclusive color of the royal family, and people should not use it. The flags are colorful and complicated, and the materials used are varied. They like to use high-contrast colors, and a few bright lace or colorful teeth are added to the neckline, sleeves and pleats. Because the flag dress is a flat dress, the roller becomes the only design space except the fabric, so the multi-roller looks good. In the late Qing dynasty, "eighteen inlays" (that is, eighteen lace inlays) were popular. The pattern of cheongsam in Qing Dynasty is mainly sketching, and dragons and lions introduce hundreds of animals, cranes and birds, plum blossoms, bamboo flowers and chrysanthemums, as well as the happiness of eight treasures, eight immortals and Fu Lushou are all common themes.

At the beginning of the twentieth century, it was popular to wear short jackets with flared sleeves and sleeveless vests, and the jackets swung back and forth on the ground. Since then, some changes have been made in the hem, sleeves, lapels, collars and other aspects of the cheongsam, adding decoration and complicated changes, but still maintaining the straight and wide style of the old cheongsam vest, and adopting the traditional straight-line cutting method to reveal the graceful figure of women.

In the late 1920s and 1930s, cheongsam changed repeatedly in length, width, split height, short sleeves and low collar. 1929, influenced by short skirts in Europe and America, the cheongsam with a moderate length began to shorten, the hem shrank to the knees, and the cuffs became shorter and smaller. Later, there was a school uniform cheongsam, the hem was shrunk above the knee 1 inch, and the sleeves were western. This change has been criticized. 193 1 year later, the cheongsam began to lengthen and the hem drooped. It reached its peak in the mid-1930s, and the bottom of the robe hung down to cover your feet, which was called "sweeping cheongsam". The sleeves of cheongsam, which used to cover the wrists, were shortened to the elbows. After that, the sleeve length became shorter and shorter, shrinking to two inches below the shoulder, and there was almost no sleeve after 1936.

In the Qing dynasty, you can't fly the flag. After the appearance of cheongsam, when shortening the sleeves, cheongsam also quietly opened the slit on the left side. Later, the seam opened higher and higher, and gradually reached the knee to the thigh. Due to opposition, the robe once returned below the knee. However, as soon as the pressure of public opinion was reduced, the robe slit rose rapidly, and after 1933, the wide slit cheongsam became popular.

Traditional cheongsam is straight up and down, plus a high collar. In the early thirties, with the passage of time, the waist of the robe began to shrink. After 1934, the curve of the female figure finally came out. Ear-high collars gradually became shorter, and later some became collarless cheongsam.

At the beginning of the founding of the People's Republic of China, people's pursuit of the beauty of clothing has completely turned into their enthusiasm for revolutionary work. The image of a laid-back lady represented by cheongsam lost its living space in this atmosphere ... Cheongsam also had a glorious moment in the 1950s. In an era when people are masters of their own affairs, if clothes are popular, the leading role of fashion will turn to civilians. By 1956, it is said that when a leader of the former Soviet Union visited China, he proposed that the clothes of China people should reflect the new face of socialist prosperity, so the government called on "everyone to wear colorful clothes". At this time, the cheongsam looks healthier and more natural than before. Not evil, not flattering, not exquisite, not morbid, in line with the standards of "beautiful and generous" at that time, but also more practical.

In the 1960s and 1970s, cheongsam was neglected for 20 years. Since the 1980s, it has been predicted that cheongsam will be popular. At that time, the ideal image of women changed, and people yearned for tall, slender, flat shoulders and narrow hips. The cheongsam, which best embodies this perfect figure, has room for survival and development. It is said that the popular cheongsam will come back to people. Surprisingly, however, cheongsam is not popular again, but only a few people are wearing it. The heyday of cheongsam has gone far away, and it has been neglected for 30 years, which seems to be somewhat outdated in the empty countryside.

However, in the 1980s and 1990s, a kind of "uniform cheongsam" with professional symbolic significance appeared. For the purpose of publicity, waitresses, waitresses and waitresses in entertainment places and hotel restaurants all wear cheongsam. The same is true of this kind of cheongsam, which is made of synthetic silk fabric with bright colors, high split and rough workmanship. This is really detrimental to the beautiful image of cheongsam in people's minds. People are even more afraid to wear cheongsam in order to be different.

Since 1990s, cheongsam, as the representative of China fashion which can best set off the figure and temperament of China women, has once again attracted people's attention. Inspired by cheongsam, many foreign designers have introduced cheongsam with international flavor, even the combination of China cheongsam and European evening dress.

Cheongsam aesthetics

Clothing can't exist in isolation from the human body, and so can cheongsam. Women's head, neck, shoulders, arms, chest, waist, hips, legs, hands and feet are skillfully combined to form a perfect whole. The beauty of cheongsam is an elegant and noble beauty. This cultural taste determined by the connotation of cheongsam limits its popularization and promotion, and at the same time, it also has high requirements for the wearer, not only in physical requirements, but also in the connotation and temperament of the wearer. Moreover, the appearance of cheongsam pays special attention to the background, environment and atmosphere. The beauty of cheongsam is a beauty of distance, a beauty of static elegance.

After years of modification and improvement, cheongsam has become a kind of clothing that can well reflect the curvaceous beauty of women. It is made of most China fabrics, silk and brocade, and is worn on China women with high bun and slim figure. The perfect combination of eastern and western aesthetics, the charm of the East is amazing. Here, cheongsam has become a symbol that transcends the meaning of general clothing.

Cheongsam is not a lost historical costume. It has both the vicissitudes of the past and the brand-new present. Cheongsam itself has certain historical significance, high appreciation and great collection value. Although there are not many women wearing cheongsam in modern times, modern cheongsam still maintains its traditional charm in many places, and at the same time embodies the beauty of fashion, so it also has certain collection value.

In recent ten years, the cheongsam, which has made a new appearance in the fashion world, has appeared frequently on the international fashion stage, and its charm is not as good as before. It is regarded as a formal dress with national representative significance in various international social etiquette occasions.

Cheongsam and accessories

Oil-paper umbrella and fragrant fan are important accessories of cheongsam. Wearing a classical cheongsam, holding a fragrant fan in one hand and an oil-paper umbrella in the other, leisurely pace, elegant figure and classical charm are all manifestations of oriental classical beauty.

Cheongsam and figure

Cheongsam has bright and smooth lines, decent tailoring and soft fabrics, which can fully reflect the curvaceous beauty of women. The cheongsam with exquisite workmanship and high-grade fabric has become the most grand choice for women in formal occasions. Cheongsam is a kind of gentle, elegant, noble and dignified dress. Dress etiquette, who doesn't know it, will make jokes.

Cheongsam is a dress that highlights the figure, but it doesn't have to be a standard figure to wear well. Different bodies have their own characteristics. As long as you pay attention to some rules, cheongsam can be dressed elegantly.

A thick-necked man:

You should choose a collarless cheongsam. If the collar is slightly deeper, it can not only prevent the vertical collar from interfering with the neck movement, but also lead to a long face.

A person with a slender neck:

The beauty of cheongsam is often manifested in the collar, and the slender neck is only beautified with a vertical collar, which also shows the beauty of the collar. The two complement each other.

Petite person:

You can choose the form of long lapels, with a line in the middle, which gives people a sense of slender visually.

A slightly fatter person:

You can choose a style with prominent lines on the upper body and a slightly loose lower body that looks like a long skirt, which has both national style and dress style.

People who shouldn't wear cheongsam:

Cheongsam is not suitable for wearing work clothes, getting on and off the bus or riding a bike. The solemnity and elegance of cheongsam are not in harmony with the noisy and crowded outdoor atmosphere.

Cheongsam fabric

Silk: Dress-style cheongsam suitable for weddings and other occasions.

Brocade: Suitable for making traditional cheongsam.

Imported fabric: suitable for making Chinese and western cheongsam with fur collar, sleeves and long hem, which is more perfect with shawl.

Velveteen: It is suitable for high collar (about 8 cm), with no edge, and the lower body is just above the knee with boots, which is very avant-garde.

Beijing School and Shanghai School

"Everyone learns from Shanghai and learns to learn differently. By the time they learn three points, Shanghai has changed. " This is a popular ballad in 1930s and 1940s, which vividly reflects how prominent Shanghai was in the clothing industry at that time.

The 1920s to 1940s was the most glorious period of modern women's wear in China, and the 1930s was the peak of this period. It can be said that only then did China have real fashion, fashion in the modern sense. The continuous input of foreign materials, the clothing columns opened by major newspapers and magazines, and the monthly fashion paintings have undoubtedly promoted the emergence and popularity of fashion. And major department stores, silk weaving and clothing manufacturers have also held fashion exhibitions and performances, inviting all kinds of stars, celebrities and celebrities to wear novel clothes. Cheongsam is one of these fashions.

The origin of cheongsam popularity in 1930s was not in Beijing, but in Shanghai, which has become the national fashion center. At that time, the latest styles of European and American clothes came to Shanghai every three or four months, and all parts of the country followed Shanghai as an example and followed suit. Cheongsam is very popular in Shanghai, because its slender fit just caters to the slim and exquisite figure characteristics of southern women. Shanghai-style cheongsam, with the characteristics of western-style clothing, naturally became popular all over the country from Shanghai. In this way, as an important representative of Shanghai style culture, Shanghai style cheongsam became the mainstream of cheongsam in the 1930s.

The style of cheongsam in 1930s has two characteristics: "the combination of Chinese and western styles is changeable". At that time, women who loved beauty wore cheongsam in various ways, some westernized, and some wore western-style coats outside cheongsam. Partial westernization refers to the practice of adopting western-style clothing for collars and sleeves. Such as western lapels, lotus leaf sleeves, split sleeves, ruffled hem or asymmetrical lace, but these are only the social dresses of some stars and celebrities, and most people still like to wear cheongsam with western-style clothes. For example, wear a suit jacket, fur coat, sweater, vest, etc. Wearing a scarf around the neck or a pearl necklace on the outside of the cheongsam looks elegant and chic.

At that time, the slender waist-closed cheongsam with perm, transparent stockings, high heels, necklaces, earrings, watches and purses were the most fashionable dresses, and the role of women was fully emphasized. Later, an improved cheongsam appeared, that is, many western-style cutting methods were added to the cutting to make the cheongsam more fit and practical. Cheongsam has become a unique "national costume" of the Chinese nation.

The names of Beijing School and Shanghai School first appeared in the literary world of old China decades ago. The word Shanghai School was invented by some progressive writers in Beijing at that time to criticize some literati and style of writing in Shanghai. Beijing School is relative to Shanghai School. Since then, Beijing School and Shanghai School have symbolized two opposing cultures respectively. Beijing school is traditional and authentic; Shanghai style is a traditional innovation and a product of the combination of Chinese and western.

If Shanghai school is characterized by absorbing western art, unconventional, flexible and diverse, and strong commercial atmosphere, then Beijing school has an official style, which is implicit and concise. Although the term "Beijing-style clothing" is not common, this kind of clothing style definitely exists relative to "Shanghai style". Both Beijing School and Shanghai School of Cheongsam have their own distinct personalities.

Beijing style cheongsam is not as popular as Shanghai style cheongsam. In the twenties and thirties of last century, women in Beijing wore cheongsam in addition to long skirts, which were not rich in styles, unlike Shanghai-style clothes, which were often updated. Shanghai's new model will not appear in Beijing for at least four or five months, and it will not be accepted if it is particularly foreign and bold. Nevertheless, women's cheongsam in Beijing is more and more influenced by Shanghai style cheongsam. Whether the cycloid rises or falls is just a time lag.

Beijing School and Shanghai School actually have their own advantages and disadvantages. Beijing school is like a good family, and Shanghai school is like a modern girl; Classical in Beijing, romantic in Shanghai. However, with the changes of history, Shanghai style with modern characteristics has gradually become the mainstream. The silhouette of Shanghai style cheongsam has been handed down and has not changed. The traditional image of women in China is also closely related to it, which is hard to separate.

Cheongsam design

(Provided by School of Textile and Clothing, Nantong University)

1. Simple and generous big flower with off-the-shoulder and off-back.

2. Red tube top, green fishtail skirt, red ears embedded in the seam, which is more dynamic and collides with hue.

3. Black and yellow stitching, combining embroidery and sequins.