Saying jiyangzhai

Discover social changes from the rise and fall of a village, because it is a living fossil with more information; To understand it is to understand a period of history, or more directly.

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I. Unique villages

? In the early winter festival, it is a pleasure to have friends coming from afar. Naturally, it is indispensable to greet each other and make the best of the friendship of the landlord. Eating and drinking well is no longer the goal today. My friend suggested walking around. Where are you going? I answered without thinking: Shangji Yangzhai. Thought it was a good place. Because it is close and high, you can have a panoramic view of Beiguan. In the early 1960s, I was born in Ganquangou at the foot of Jiyang Mountain. When I played on the hillside of Jiyang, I picked up wild vegetables in the wheat fields of Jiyang, climbed Jiyang Mountain and went back and forth countless times, knowing the ravines of Jiyang Mountain like the back of my hand. When I was at school, I praised the campus and often wrote: "At the foot of Jiyang Mountain, beside Qishui River". Poetic landscape, branded in the heart, fixed in the impression. Therefore, if you don't understand Jiyang, you won't be laughed at; Today, I dare not talk nonsense like this.

? Today, I went to climb Jiyang Mountain with my friends, but when I came back from the mountain, I had an indescribable feeling in my heart. I couldn't help feeling infinitely: Jiyang Mountain is getting more and more strange, so Jiyang Village is like this. There is no trace of the place where I played as a child. The tall walled village became low, some mounds disappeared, and the dilapidated tile house disappeared. In the cave near the cliff, there are either buried or tall old tung trees, small catalpa trees and Chinese Toona trees. In short, dangerous deep valleys, narrow roads and cracked earth kilns seem to have disappeared or become lush vegetation. Of course, the most regrettable thing is that there are no lovely cows and donkeys in the village, and the air smells of horse manure. I feel that there is no feeling that the country should have, and my vision and hearing are different. There are no pig and sheep droppings and dirty mud pits on the ground. Probably people tend to have confidence in what they think is familiar, so they don't "ask questions" but become "ignorant". It can be said that the reason why I am strange is the feeling of hearing and seeing when I was young, compared with decades of life experience and continuous learning and knowledge increase. It is very important to further understand a thing, that is, there is a process of change from the outside to the inside, which is strange-familiar-strange-familiar until cognition.

? I remember when I was a child, I would look up at this mountain in the west of the city every time I came to Beiguan. Not because Huangtu Mountain is tall and majestic, not because of the faintly visible ancient village wall, nor because of the faintly visible crows in the sunset. Because there are big trees with umbrella crowns on the mountain. In the afternoon, the scene is even more spectacular: the backlit trees set off the sunset, and the leaves twinkle, making it even more gloomy and mysterious. Because of the distance, they can't distinguish any tree species; Later, I heard adults say it was a big locust tree, and one or two were persimmon trees. I haven't been there. I didn't know there was a bigger tree in the stockade, and I didn't know that a more admirable generation of great sages had grown on this seemingly barren mountain top. Now most of these ancient trees are gone. I don't think anyone will notice where they went, because they are so familiar with it. I only remember many times when I stared at the top of the mountain and vaguely saw birds flying in the afterglow of the sunset, which was very poetic. I also heard that the village on the mountain is an ancient stockade, so I learned the name "Jiyang stockade".

? "Tongguan County Records" records: the ancient city of Tongguan has Jiyang Mountain in the west, and there is a village named Jiyang Village on the top of it, which was the resident of my father's "Tongguan Guard Army" 1,600 years ago. Jiyang village is a dangerous building with high walls, which is a traditional plywood rammed earth building; The ruins of the city wall that can be seen at present were built by the government to escape the war since the end of the Yuan Dynasty. The ceramic fragments mixed in the earth wall are mostly ginger glaze, black glaze and white glaze, especially the broken bowl bottom and bottle mouth. It can be seen that these ceramic fragments belong to Yaozhou porcelain in Yuan Dynasty, that is, the fragments of Chen Lu porcelain. Jiyang is the name of the mountain. Why is it called Jiyang? There is no place to study it. Since the compilation of Tongguan County Chronicles, Jiyang Mountain has come to the fore. Compared with the surrounding Hutou Mountain, Yintai Mountain and Jiyang Mountain, Jiyang Mountain is "impressive". Just as Tongguan seized Xi 'an's throat, Jiyang has become an important place to protect the county and protect the city since ancient times because of its potential. Hundreds of years after Fu Jian set up a "bronze official guard army" in Jiyang Village before the Qin Dynasty, Jiyang Village was more famous than Jiyang Mountain. However, there are mountains first, then there are villages. The ancients spared no effort to "build mountains and dig valleys" from generation to generation, and built earth cities dozens of feet high on the top of the mountain, which were called villages. The village is not only a place where mountain people live in concentration, but also an artificial and natural defense facility, with explosives and various instruments in reserve. There is a cellar in the village. There used to be a monument of "Er Quan", but now it is out of sight. Next to the dilapidated village wall, there is still an invisible cellar. It is conceivable that there is a cellar in the village, and there is water in the cellar. There is a warehouse in the stockade, and there is food in the warehouse. It is not afraid of foreign intrusion, and it is also the most comfortable way to protect the family pursued by Chinese people. Many anecdotes and legends have been incorporated into protecting and restoring villages. In Koushen's Rebuilding the Monument of Jiyang Village, we can see the scene of climbing to the height of the village wall: I saw the precipice, the endless valley, the mountains near and far, smooth as a cover, snail-like, bun-like, thirsty to swim in Longhai, and the secluded hills all bow down. My friends and I didn't stand at the height set by Kou Shen, but stood at the foot of the stockade wall and looked out. In front of the northern city, there are already many high-rise buildings, and the criss-crossing highways are submerged downstairs, occasionally stretching out for a while, vaguely seeing the large and small vehicles shuttling back and forth. The street is near the foot of the mountain, which is not much different from the position of the ancient Tongguan market. Maybe at that time, we could see the grain sellers clearly, but now, we are looking at the streets. The surrounding mountains, near or far, are covered with smog, and it is impossible to tell which ones are smooth, which ones are covered, which ones are snails, which ones are bun and which ones are thirsty. When I went to the seaside with my friends, I just managed to contact several mountains and comforted myself that I would watch them carefully when the weather was fine. In this regard, I envy the vision and level of the ancients and vividly describe the beauty of nature. When there is no war and bandits, people are also very safe and comfortable. During the Qing Dynasty, some county offices were located in Jiyang Village, which further proved that Jiyang Village was an important place for people and officials.

Later, a little longer, I climbed the mountain road of the cottage and went with some classmates on Sunday. At that time, it was a dirt road, uneven, and tractors and mules were encountered on the road to transport goods. It was an era of alternating modern civilization and farming civilization. Of course, this statement is problematic. One side of the road is a ravine and the other side is a mountain. At that time, I was young and a few people were still in high spirits. When you get to the top of the mountain, turn left not far, and you will reach the Zhaimen cave. This is also different from other villages. Walking into the cave, I suddenly felt cold. I carefully looked at the pout marks on the cave wall and thought: It was really ingenious for our predecessors to dig such a gate in front of the village. Of course, I didn't expect the real use of this "heartfelt".

Second, a generation of sages

? The characteristics of a place are mainly people, their contribution and influence, and the so-called "outstanding people". History is created by the people, and some outstanding figures and deeds will be passed down through the ages, and they are also "household names". It is said that: Before liberation, Jiyang Village was the landlord's lair. At present, most families living there are well off. Whether this statement is appropriate or not is unknown. However, there are indeed celebrities in Jiyang Village, and Kou Shen ranks first. "Tongchuan Record" contains: "Kou Shen (1577-1659), whose real name is Yongxiu, was born in ji yang Village, Yintai, a suburb today." Forty-four years of Wanli (16 16) Jinshi. In Beijing, he was successively awarded the positions of Minister of Punishment, Minister of Industry and Minister of Foreign Affairs. Later, he was transferred to Yuheng (the ancient palm forest and Kawasawa official position) as Langzhong, and later (the sixth year of the apocalypse) as the magistrate of Suzhou. During his tenure in Suzhou, he worked diligently for the people and did many good deeds. However, "in case of flood, drought and famine, donating money to transport grain, and asking for tax reduction, persuading the people to open up river banks and weave silks and satins won the hearts of the people." Moreover, not afraid of power, he handled the "big case" between Suzhou people and eunuch party, and made the big things smaller. And thus offended Wei Zhongxian. In the first year of Chongzhen (1628), Guangping magistrate was supplemented. Three months later, he was transferred to Changping, the deputy envoy of Shanxi Inspection Department, to prepare for the road, to serve as an army thorn, and to inspect Jining ... Then he moved to Shanxi to participate in the Senate and defend Shuozhou. After returning to his hometown in the eighth year of Chongzhen (1635), he wrote four books, such as Historical Records of Past Dynasties, Diary of Mountain Residence and Tongguan County Records. He can also write down the memorial and broadcast it on provincial TV stations to speak for the people. After his death, there was an epitaph written by his student Gu. His deeds are very popular with the people. After Li Zicheng peasant rebels captured Xi 'an, Kou Shen was captured and imprisoned in Qin Gong. Because of the reputation of an honest official, he didn't let bygones be bygones (he also participated in "chopping" the rebels) and asked him to review his hometown. This fully shows that the rebels also love honesty and generosity, and they hate corrupt officials. As a wise man, he has many stories, most of which are sympathetic to the people. It can be seen that since ancient times, people have been known for their happiness and interests. In the early days of liberation, there was a ancestral hall of Koujia in the stockade, but now the ancestral hall no longer exists, leaving a residence in the late Qing Dynasty, adding a bit of simplicity and remoteness. Come to think of it, Kou Shen has been an official for nearly 20 years, and he can still have such a great influence. It is by no means one or two things that can explain his character and the way to be an official. It is based on his lifelong cultivation and style, thus affecting future generations. This is very rare, and I deeply admire the ancients' spirit of studying, being an official and being dedicated.

? He is thoughtful and has a thorough understanding of the world. As he said in "Songs in the Mountain in the Dead of Night", "What about poverty and wealth?" Good * * * is broken by him. How about being smart? On the merits, who is greater than Han Hou? Who is richer than Shi Chong? Look at their results, look at their results and break up in a few years! ..... "These are also very rare today. It can't be said that officials in a feudal society have this kind of ideological realm, which makes people think deeply and expect!

? Wandering in the ancient village, thinking about the ancient sages, living among nymphs, cultivating self-cultivation, doing research and managing the family, even if you are born without forgetting your roots. Its cultivation comes from traditional education and is also an excellent humanistic spirit. Of course, the house in Jiyang Village is no longer a small courtyard with blue bricks, blue tiles or earth caves in the past, but a red brick and cement bungalow. Every household has a cinnabar tile iron gate building, which is neat and generous and looks like a new village. The ancient trees in the village are still tall and straight, the roadway has hardened, and there is no rainy day covered with mud anymore. The villagers are dressed neatly, almost like the city people. When they saw someone coming, they were not surprised, but smiled in a friendly way. The primary school in the village has been transformed into a kindergarten. In spring, the whole garden is full of joy and childlike interest. The surrounding walls are decorated with cartoon characters and animals. In the center of the garden is a small garden. The pace of winter is very slow here. The trees are still green and the flowers are still red. The whole ground is covered with artificial green carpet, which is soft and continuous. Several cars stopped at the door, as if to pick up the children. I can't believe the children here pick them up by car, too. Are they all descendants of the Kou family, or direct grandchildren of Kou God? What should Koushen say if he is still alive?

? Speaking of Shanding Village, it is natural to mention villagers' water use. In the past, people drank mostly pit water, and some people went to the foot of the mountain to carry water. Now this phenomenon has changed a long time ago. Tap water has reached every household, so washing and cooking is not a problem. At the foot of Jiyang Mountain is Fang Quan, which is Gu Quan. According to legend, it was used by the royal family in Tang Dynasty. Now the spring water is still very prosperous. In order to protect this historic site and make it more convenient for people to use water, five years ago, the yintai district municipal government allocated funds to repair it, making it a unique landscape. "At the foot of Jiyang, there is a bitter Fang Quan, and the color is bright and slow ..." Every sentence is exciting. Now the spring is still gurgling out, watching quietly, but it is drowned by the sound of reading and laughter, and everything is more quiet and profound. I respect Yuan's talent here. As the chief executive, he is familiar with the geography of mountains and rivers, folk customs and people's feelings, and has left many excellent poems among his colleagues. From his poems, we can learn more about the local customs here hundreds of years ago.

Third, history.

? The steep mountain road, the spreading thoughts and the early winter scenery are not the bleak scene, but the feeling of richness that is still unfinished. Since ancient times, Jiyang Mountain has stood in the southwest of county government, county government and county government. Its name has not changed, but its shape has changed. Today, at the top of Jiyang Mountain, there is still a north-south east-west wall in the north of the village. The north and south walls are mixed with green, brown and black, and there is a mound several meters higher in the middle. Looking from the west, the whole is dignified and solemn. The east-west stockade wall, from west to east, along the mountain, from high to low, is covered with miscellaneous trees and grass trees. The west end is the kiln back of the kindergarten, and the outside of the garden wall is the stockade gate, which extends to the east end of the ditch. A flat cement road extends from the outside of the village to the inside of the village, passing through the back wall of the village, and a section of the wall is still a dirt road, leaving history. When I was about to get close to a house in the late Qing Dynasty with my friends, a black grass dog made a fierce cry. I can only see four words on the door of the house from a distance, but I can't see what it is. Seen from the east, Zhai Village has become a towering earth cliff, which is covered with houses. The traces of the village can only be felt from the height of the pop-up. The whole stockade was silent. How can you imagine at this time? There have been many battles and scuffles here, and countless lives have been buried on this mountain. When defending and attacking the stockade, fighting for the commanding heights is the need of survival. A tragic scene, a touching scene, has been in the county annals. Today, however, in the face of the earth-shaking changes that have taken place in Jiyang Village, we can only use our imagination. The front door of the courtyard of the private house is flat and clean, and the barking from the yard still can't break the silence of the whole village. It is also a pleasure to enjoy all kinds of dry land vegetables in front of the door. Half of the food has been collected, and the rest is still neat and orderly. A few cabbages, a few green onions and a few rows of leeks can show that every owner is doing his work in an orderly way, knowing fairly well. Judging from the details of personality and upbringing, we can also imagine that the atmosphere here is rigorous and meticulous. In early winter, the Chinese rose is still swaying, and Dahlia is struggling to support the late flowers. Going outside the village again, I saw the cement road climbing up the hillside, like a jade belt, laying at the door of every household. The vertical height of the buildings under the mountain has passed one third of the hillside. On the way up the mountain, all kinds of cars get up and down, and there are many taxis.

? No matter the Ming version, the Qing version or the Republic of China version, "Jiyang Sunset Red" ranks first among the eight scenic spots of the same official. Tongguan County Chronicle: On a sunny day, when the sun sets, standing on the mountain and looking west, the blue sky is red, and the trees on the mountain are all plated with golden luster, which is intoxicating. In order to appreciate this beautiful scenery, the ancients built a "sunset pavilion" in the east of the cottage. The pavilion even has a foundation of four feet and five feet high, which is quite large, but it is a pity that today's things no longer exist. Now you can see the spectacular sunset everywhere, but the sunset in Jiyang is not very enjoyable because there is no sunset pavilion. Climbing the mountain to find the pavilion, there is no trace to be found, standing in the sunset, pursuing the feelings in Yuan's poems: "Walking outside the west city, the green light locks the green light." In the mountains, I still want to rest, and the forest birds are still tired. The trees in the distance shook the blue sky, and the mountains shook in the evening. Chicheng is in sight, but I forgot to go home at dusk. "The sunset pavilion has completely disappeared, but the ancient locust tree that grew in the original site is lush, telling the beauty of the sunset in the wind.

? To understand Tongchuan, you need to understand the same officials; If you know Tongguan, you must read Tongguan County Records. Open Tongguan county annals, Jiyang matters are clear. Jiyang shanzhai makes people uneasy, the sunset glow in Jiyang makes people daydream, and Fang Quan in Jiyang makes people unforgettable. People and events related to Jiyang Mountain are like picture scrolls handed down from generation to generation. Jiyang Mountain is a treasure, a landscape, a monument, and the feelings of future generations of the same officials. Watch a sunset and enjoy a ray of sunset glow. Cai Xia hung on the horizon, wiping my heart. Looking back at Jiyang Mountain, the sunset tells the history of its rise and fall poetically through the cracks in the ruins. Who knows how many? Looking at Jiyang Village, the Song of Night Harmony in the Mountain written by the sage seems to ring in my ear: "The world is too ignorant, there is no north and south, there is no west, who is the crow and who is the phoenix?" You can't tell black from white or green from red. Urination is heavier than traction. No pecking, no size ... Jade Kirin becomes a rabbit, hairy mouse becomes a camel, and the world is in a paste ... Ajia becomes a daughter-in-law ... It's out of place, and the general feeds the horse grass ... "Powerful and euphemistic, a feeling of meditation arises spontaneously.