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Interesting snail prose
snails are the most common thing in our Jiangnan water town. Where there is water, there are snails. When we were young, it was rare to eat meat once. Although fish were eaten several times, fishing required tools and time-consuming. As long as snails were touched in the water with bare hands, they were a handful. Therefore, snails were the most common meat dishes. I think I can grow into such a strong skeleton and strong muscles, and this snail has made a contribution. Snails have been eaten in my hometown since Qingming, commonly known as "Qingming snails, racing geese", which shows that snails at this time are delicious and nutritious. Although there are many snails in summer and autumn, the snails in Qingming period have no children and taste the best. Eat snails well on Qingming night, and throw the eaten snail shells on the top of your house in order to keep your family safe. On a silent spring night, a series of snail shells rolled on the corrugated surface from the roof, which was crisp and pleasing to the ear, and had the charm of falling pearls and jade plates.
I remember when I was young, I was very annoyed to see my parents and my sister eating snails skillfully and enjoying the delicious snails, but I couldn't suck the snail meat inside. Mother gave me a needle for sewing and told me to use it to pick out the snail meat. It was not until I learned how to suck snail meat that I realized that the real flavor of eating snail is to be sucked out with my mouth. Sucking snails, practice makes perfect, but also talk about some talents. For example, my grandmother is an expert at eating snails. While she is talking and drinking wine, she holds snails to her mouth with chopsticks, "bursts" twice, and the snail meat is sucked in, and then gently "holds" and spits out the tail of snails. The whole action is done in one go. My grandfather also likes to eat screws, but his skills are less good. He used chopsticks to pick up snails and gave them to his left hand, which held them and sucked them again, which was not as clean as my grandmother's. Like most people, my grandfather laid snail shells flat on the table, but my grandmother likes to fold them intentionally to make a hill, which is in line with her unique personality. What's even more unique is my uncle next door. He often grabs snails directly with his left hand without chopsticks. With a bang, the snail meat is sucked in and eaten. Then he holds the snail shell in his hand, sips the yellow wine, continues to talk about his words, and gestures in the air with his left hand at any time. When it comes to the important point, he throws it down with a bang! The size of the action is related to the degree he needs to emphasize. You see, this snail shell has simply become a prop in the storyteller's hand.
Snails are so delicious that people love them, but they just don't come to the table, and they are rarely used to entertain guests. From the ancient recipes such as Suiyuan Food List written by Yuan Mei in Qing Dynasty, it can be inferred that the "meanness" of snails has always been the case. In the history of China literature, there are countless poems praising flowers, birds, insects and fish, but none singing snails. Only Wang Zengqi, a contemporary writer, wrote an antique novel "The Snail Girl" based on folk stories, expressing his praise for snails. The novel naturally has another meaning, but from a certain point of view, its tragic ending implies that people have not paid enough "respect" to this kind of readily available and cheap food for a long time. Zheng Yimei, an expert in literature and history, also said one thing in his essay "Snails": "My friend Tao Xiaochu said that his cousin Zhu Songhua was a teacher in the countryside, and his family was very poor. He also ate his own food. Every morning, he went to the stream to touch snails as a companion. For a long time, the villagers laughed and referred to Mr. Touch Snails. At the beginning of filial piety, the father gave a poem saying:' Xiaofeng walked slowly on the bank, holding a basket of narration to the water. Laugh at the fisherman's little girl, and your husband learns to touch snails. " Poetry is a laughing stock for a while. "Mr. Teacher's touching snails has become a laughing stock, which shows that snails are humble. Imagine if this gentleman picks chrysanthemums to plow the fields after preaching and dispelling doubts, it will be a poetic talk, and there is no laughing stock.
nowadays, with its wild and delicious characteristics, snails are no longer confined to the home, and they have begun to sit in the hall, and they can be seen in restaurants and restaurants regardless of their size. Speaking of its wildness, there is a joke that a group of Shanghainese traveled to Wuzhen. In the hotel, they pointed to the snails in the bucket and asked, "Are these snails wild?" The shrewd hotel owner was stunned at first, and then conveniently replied: "Of course it's wild! All are wild! " "Oh, that's wild snails. Ok, a plate of wild snails!" In fact, snails in my hometown are originally wild, and there is no need to breed them. Here, the hotel owner didn't bully customers. He just wisely took advantage of the misunderstanding of snails in Shanghai. Now my hometown often uses "wild snails" to ridicule the ignorance of rural life in big cities.
It is true that small restaurants and food stalls are the most popular places for snails. At this time, the sound of sucking snails came and went, which added a lively atmosphere to the banquet. In the food stalls on summer nights, the boys were eating in full swing, simply taking off their shirts and shirtless, showing strong muscles, eating snails, drinking wine, chatting and gesticulating, which was quite inspiring; The girls showed their slender arms like snow lotus root, held the snail with orchid fingers, sent it to the cherry mouth, pursed their bright red lips, and sucked it, which made them look and sound charming.
Snails are often present at luxurious banquets in Gaotang Hall. At this time, they often form "Three Freshness of the River" with fish and crabs in the river, but it is often overlooked. However, some people who know the goods specialize in picking up the snails that sank at the bottom of the soup, because this snail has absorbed enough delicious food from fish and crabs at this time. It's really an unspeakable delicacy!
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