The full text of the book "Red Flag Planted on Mount Everest"

The silver-gray peaks are hidden in the dense fog layer, and the steep rocks are covered with endless white

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At 4:20 on May 25, 1960, the mountaineering team successfully climbed Mount Everest

It "flew" down from the overhanging rock like a waterfall; the deep canyon It is winding and winding, as if it will never reach its end... Everest - the main peak of the Himalayas with an altitude of 8,882 meters and the highest peak on earth. It is majestic and steep. It stands on the edge of the southwest plateau of the motherland and has become a majestic natural barrier.

However, due to its unparalleled height, unpredictable climate and extremely dangerous terrain, Mount Everest has been almost isolated from the world for many years. In many countries around the world, people compare it with the South Pole and the North Pole of the earth, and call it the "third pole" on the earth. Although the two poles of the earth have always been regarded as dangerous and mysterious areas, as early as the 18th and 19th centuries, some people had gone there for exploration activities. As for Mount Everest, it was not until the 1950s that the world's science and industry had entered a very developed era. After paying a great price, mankind could still only linger on its slopes, unable to climb its summit and detect it. The secret makes it the last "inaccessible" mysterious area on earth.

According to the Encyclopedia Britannica, Britain, which has a long history of mountaineering, has been trying to climb to its peak since 1921. At that time, they obtained permission from the local authorities in Tibet, my country. By 1938, they had attempted to climb the summit of Mount Everest along the north slope of Tibet seven times. As a result, they all failed. Mallory and Irvine, two experienced British mountaineering explorers who were once prominent in the British mountaineering community, climbed Mount Everest from the north slope in 1924. This was the third time that British mountaineers attempted to climb the peak. Although they reached a higher altitude than their previous counterparts - about 8,500 meters above sea level, they never came back at this altitude. After seven failed attempts, the British "explorers" came to the conclusion that it was "almost impossible" to climb this mountain from the north slope, which "even birds cannot fly over". They call the north slope of Mount Everest the "unclimbable route" and the "route of death." It is said that it was not until 1953 that New Zealander Sir Edmund Hillary, with the help of Nogai Tensing, a Shepa guide from the southern foothills of Mount Everest, did they reach the summit from the south slope.

But today, the myth that the North Route of Mount Everest is "invincible" has been completely shattered. In our era of miracles, the young Chinese mountaineering team spent just two months walking on snow and ice, flying over rocks and climbing walls, on what British "explorers" called the "route of death." on the road, stepping on a path of victory leading to the summit of Everest, and planting the red flag on the commanding heights of this earth.

Moving towards Mount Everest

On March 19 this year, there was heavy wind and snow in the Mount Everest Mountains, and dry snowflakes hung over the mountains like thick fog;

The red flag is planted on Mount Everest

Album of 22 pictures

The biting cold wind rolled up and rolled up the sand and rocks dozens of feet high. All members of the Chinese mountaineering team braved the snow and cold on the plateau to reach the foot of Mount Everest.

They stopped in a valley at the foot of Mount Everest at an altitude of 5,120 meters. In front of them were the peaks of Mount Everest. This valley is the ridge of a valley glacier that has shrunk, and is lined with rampart rocks brought by the flow of the glacier. Chinese mountaineers decided to set up the base camp of the mountaineering team here.

The captain and vice-captain of the Chinese mountaineering team are Shi Zhanchun and Xu Jing, my country’s famous mountaineering athletes. They have only participated in mountaineering activities for five years, but they are brave and tenacious. In the past few years, they have fought in the north and south, led and organized our country’s mountaineering teams more than once, and successfully conquered many world-famous peaks in the country. They are in the history of mountaineering in our country. Shu has made great achievements. Today, they led our country's strong mountaineers to Mount Everest to start a thrilling battle with the ferocious nature. The team members participating in this mountaineering activity come from all parts of the motherland and from all walks of life.

Among them are employees of factories and mines in the Northeast, forestry workers in the virgin forests of the Southwest, soldiers of the People's Liberation Army stationed at the borders of the motherland, farmers who have turned over from rural areas on the Tibetan plateau, scientists from scientific research institutions, and some from colleges and universities. students.

The cold wind roared wildly, the huge ice avalanche made a thunderous roar, and the snow particles flew, turning the sky into chaos. Mount Everest was completely hidden in the white wind and snow, with only one exposed The black shadow makes it even more dangerous and unattainable.

However, the violence of nature did not scare the Chinese mountaineers. Their laughter covered everything. They erected a tall flagpole under the rarely visited Mount Everest and raised the five-star red flag of the motherland for the first time. They moved piles of rocks and set up felt tents in the canyon; they dug up the frozen soil and built a stove under the hillside... In this place where wild beasts were infested not long ago, they officially "settled down". .

The lives of mountaineers are colorful. Although this place is remote and desolate, they use their own hands to make it full of life. They set up a few wooden poles in the open space in the middle of the tent and wrapped some red cloth around them to build a symbolic "color door". On both sides of the "door" frames, a couplet written by them was written in red pen:

"Heroes conquer mountains and rivers,

Dare to laugh at the fact that Mount Everest is not high."

< p>On the four walls of the tent where they live, many mountaineers posted slogans and slogans written by themselves on red or green paper overnight:

"Even if Mount Everest is higher than the sky,

How can you be more ambitious than a hero?

Flying on snow and ice over cliffs,

The red flag will fly on the top of the mountain. ”

The ever-changing climate in the Everest Mountains. , which brought endless difficulties to the mountaineers. Storms often blow the tents of the mountaineers topsy-turvy, and the team members often have to get up from their sleep to fight the cold wind of about minus 20 degrees Celsius. There was heavy snow, and even the stoves could not be lit. Sometimes it was difficult for the team members to even drink boiled water. A severe cold wave hit, forcing people not to step out of their tents all day. However, the mountaineers proudly wrote this slogan:

"Difficulty is a test!

Persistence is victory!

Confidence is success!"< /p>

In order to conquer Mount Everest in a short period of time, as soon as the Chinese mountaineering team arrived at the foot of the mountain, they immediately deployed a comprehensive front line and started preparations from all aspects. Meteorological staff established a well-equipped weather observation station for the first time on the desert slopes of Mount Everest. Various sophisticated meteorological instruments immediately recorded the weather elements of Mount Everest to provide accurate weather forecasts for future mountaineering activities. . The radio operators set up a tall wireless network among the rugged and steep mountains and rocks, and began to have close contact with all fronts of the motherland. Doctors and nurses are even more busy. They check the health of the mountaineers again and again and treat "mountain sickness" so that the mountaineers can still maintain sufficient energy in the harsh environment of high altitude. General affairs cadres continue to travel here and there, constantly transporting a variety of high-quality modern mountain technical equipment from all over the country, as well as nutritious and wide variety of mountain food and beverages, providing a strong material guarantee for mountaineering activities.

At the same time, the head of the mountaineering team and the mountaineering team members further studied the relevant information of Mount Everest and formulated an overall plan to conquer the summit of Mount Everest. According to our country’s experience in peak exploration in recent years, when climbing a mountain above 7,000 meters above sea level, we cannot place our hopes on victory in one march. Instead, we must go through several adaptive marches, gradually ascend, gradually adapt to the high mountain environment, and then concentrate Power assault the main peak. Therefore, the mountaineering team headquarters decided to divide the battle to capture the summit of Mount Everest into four "campaigns".

The first battle - the mountaineers set out from the base camp, reached an altitude of 6,400 meters above sea level, and then returned to the base camp to rest;

The second battle - ascended from the base camp to the altitude of 6,400 meters above sea level. 7,600 meters above sea level, and then return to base camp to rest;

The third battle - ascend from base camp to 8,300 meters above sea level, and then return to base camp to rest.

During these three adaptive marches, the mountaineering team members had to establish many alpine camps at different altitudes along the way to create material conditions for the final capture of the summit. At the same time, the team members gradually ascended and Can achieve full adaptability to the alpine environment. After that, the fourth battle requires the team members to set off from the base camp and reach an altitude of 8,500 meters above sea level, establish an "assault camp" to seize the main peak, and then set off from this camp to climb to the summit of 8,882 meters above sea level.

On March 24, the battle plan to conquer the summit of Mount Everest was repeatedly revised and finally unanimously approved at a meeting of all team members.

The First March

The battle to conquer Mount Everest begins.

On March 25, the continuous wind and snow stopped. The hazy fog that shrouded the mountainous area began to dissipate, and the sun, which had been hidden for a long time, slowly rose from behind the mountain. The sunlight reflected the mountains of Everest in colorful colors, and the sky was blue without a single cloud. This is rare good weather in the Everest Mountains.

A few days ago, based on accurate weather forecasts, the Chinese Mountaineering Team Headquarters decided that all mountaineering team members would set off from the base camp today to begin their first adaptive march to Mount Everest.

At 12 noon, all the mountaineering team members gathered in the square at the foot of Mount Everest, carrying mountaineering backpacks and ice axes. In the solemn national anthem, the mountaineers personally raised a five-star red flag into the bright clear sky. Then, Shi Zhanchun, the captain of the Chinese mountaineering team, issued an order to the ready-to-go mountaineering team members to march towards Mount Everest: "Now, the Chinese mountaineering team begins to advance towards the world's highest peak!"

The mountaineering team members are marching along Mount Everest. Advance along the middle ridge route of the East Rongbuk Glacier of the peak. The East Rongbuk Glacier is one of the valley glaciers in the Everest Mountains, with a length of more than 13 kilometers. Due to the extremely cold climate, the snow covering the slopes gradually freezes and solidifies over a long period of time, forming a thick layer of ice that slowly moves down the mountain along the curved mountain canyons like a river. The mountaineers have to climb up this steep and slippery ice layer.

In the evening, the setting sun slanted in the sky to the west of Mount Everest, and the twilight mist curled up from the valley. The mountaineers faced the cold mountain wind and arrived at the No. 1 camp in Mount Everest - Altitude. 5400 meters of hillside. The group stopped and decided to rest here.

Under the rocks near the camp, the mountaineers saw several clearings surrounded by rocks, in which were scattered rusty empty cans and blackened leather shoes. Some of the items still had food on them. I saw a vague English trademark. This is the relic of British "explorers". The British tried to climb the summit of Everest seven times from 1921 to 1938, but all failed.

A strange world of ice and snow

Early the next morning, after the mountaineers climbed over a steep rock, they began to enter a strange world of ice and snow - the "ice of the East Rongbuk Glacier" Tongue” area. The glacier moves from the huge snow basin to below the snow line. Affected by temperature and pressure, it turns into a tongue-like ice belt, which is called an ice tongue in geomorphology. Due to the violent melting and replenishment movements of the glaciers in the Everest Mountains, "ice towers" are "growing" in their ice tongue areas that are unprecedented in glaciers in other areas. Some of these countless ice towers are sharp and towering, like spring bamboo shoots; some are majestic and towering, like pagodas. They are as transparent and white as crystal, as dazzling as gems, and are connected and undulating with each other, forming a "forest" of ice and snow. Facing the magnificent scenery in front of them, the mountaineers forgot about fatigue and danger. They cheered and sang and walked between the ice peaks and snow towers, capturing them with cameras from time to time.

However, the road in this area has become increasingly difficult. People often can only pass through the narrow gaps between the seracs. Under the strong mountain sun, bubbles bubbled on the ice, and the sound of ice exploding could be heard from time to time in the cracks. Then, the tip or side corners of the serac collapsed, and huge pieces of ice and snow scattered one after another. If you are not careful, you will be in danger.

In a corner of a glacier, several seracs stand side by side, blocking the entire narrow hillside like walls. It seems that people can only drill through the middle of the ice cracks, but the obvious ice avalanche traces show that doing so is very dangerous.

The team stopped and looked for a safer route. At this moment, the team members discovered a strange thing on a rock under the ice tower