Hainan's New Year Folk Custom —— Historical Origin and Legend of Zhai Cai

My hometown is in the beautiful and rich Hainan Island. During the Spring Festival, there are many customs in my hometown. Fasting on the first day of the month is one of many customs.

When I was a child, I heard my grandfather say that in the old society, fasting was very strict. On the first day of the first year, I had to fast all day, and I was not allowed to touch any meat. During the fast, the whole family put on new clothes and gathered around the square table. The elders carry vegetables for the younger generation and say some wishes while carrying vegetables. For example, when it comes to eggplant, they will say, I have eaten eggplant, and I will definitely "eggplant" others this year. Similarly, the younger generation can also serve vegetarian food to their elders and say that they wish grandpa a long and healthy life.

When did the first day of fasting start? I haven't verified it. According to my grandfather, it was handed down from my ancestors.

The food in lent is exquisite.

Vegetarian diet is very strict, not all vegetables can be selected. Only eggplant, green tofu, six ginger (mustard head), water celery (a kind of celery planted in rice fields, with large white roots and edible rhizomes, is a specialty of hometown) and so on. Why only choose these vegetarian dishes? There is a reason for this. It turns out that the word "eggplant" of eggplant means better than others in Hainan dialect. Eating eggplant symbolizes being better than others; The word "Qin" of Oenanthe javanica is homophonic with the pronunciation of Hainan dialect and the word "Qin" of Mandarin. Eating celery symbolizes hard work and getting rich in the new year. Six ginger roots are many and white, much like the silver whiskers of the keeper. Hometown people eat six slices of ginger, which means they eat the roots and leaves together. Eating six ginger means longevity. Old people can have white hair and yellow beard like people who live long. Tofu can be enjoyed without fiber and teeth. There is also a good wish to eat tofu, that is, to live until the teeth naturally fall out (ancient hometown people think that people live to the longest life without teeth); The bean sprouts are shaped like Shouweng, the watercress is like Shouweng's bald head, and the slightly curved bean stalks are like Shouweng's body. Eating bean sprouts also symbolizes longevity.

Busy preparing vegetarian food at the end of the year

At the end of each year, people in my hometown are busy preparing vegetarian food. I remember when I was young, my mother always bought eggplant a few days in advance and soaked it in water. Although it is a cold winter, the weather in Hainan is very hot and eggplant can still be produced in winter. I often ask my mother why she wants to buy eggplant in advance. My mother says eggplant is a must for vegetarianism, so don't worry about buying it in advance. Otherwise, if the market is short, I will get one or two yuan for an eggplant. My family has a rice field where celery can be grown. Every year before New Year's Eve, the whole family is busy pulling, washing and selling celery. It takes a lot of time to grow celery. You have to pull it out of the rice field by roots and leaves, then clean it by the river and ditch, and then take it to the market for sale. When eating, you should also remove the small hair roots of Oenanthe javanica and leave the big white roots to eat.

Vegetables should be fried on New Year's Eve.

Vegetable oil must be used when frying vegetarian dishes. In ancient times, after the vegetarian dishes were cooked, they were served on the table of the Eight Immortals in the main hall to worship their ancestors and keep the old age. I didn't start fasting until the first morning. I remember when I was young, I used to stand in front of the fire. As soon as the vegetarian food is ready, I will eat it first. Father often fried celery in two ways, one with salt and the other with sugar, which is a little sweet. I like sweets best.

In my hometown, eating vegetarian food on the first day of the new year has a long history and profound cultural connotation. It not only has the charm of China New Year custom, but also is a scientific diet custom. Because dinner on New Year's Eve is full of big fish and big meat, eating too much meat will make people feel greasy. I didn't eat meat on the first day, but I was a vegetarian, which relieved people's greasy feeling to some extent. Eating fish after the next day will be more fragrant and beautiful. From the perspective of scientific diet, this custom of eating new year's goods is the best way to eat Chinese New Year. No wonder the first day of fasting has been handed down from ancient times to the present.

Related reading: the implication of vegetarianism in Hainan

People in Hainan should eat vegetarian dishes, because fasting on the first day of the new year is a must for families in most parts of Hainan. So, do you know the meaning of ingredients used in vegetarian dishes?

Sending vegetables means making a fortune, and the financial resources are rolling day by day.

Beets are sweet and have a happy life.

Oenanthe cress is industrious and willing to work, which makes people sleepy and never withers.

Green garlic can be said and counted, and it will not suffer.

Qiaotou, Qiaotou and Hainan dialect are homophonic, meaning stronger and more powerful than others. There is also an article saying that it is eggplant, which should be a clerical error. There is no eggplant in the vegetable pot, and Hainan people seldom eat eggplant during the New Year.

Sagittarius, Hainan dialect means to bid farewell to the old and welcome the new.

Snail powder, a kind of vermicelli. It means that water is always flowing, and it will run a family and start a business.

Lily, day lily Hainan is called lily, which means rich and solid family background.

Auricularia auricula is called cat ear in Hainan dialect. As the saying goes, cats with ears (wrinkled ears) listen to their mother tongue. Teach filial piety.

Sweet bamboo is a kind of yuba, which means that a hundred feet of pole is a step further.

Dry soybeans, strips and yellow ones. It means gold bars, and having goods in hand is the last word.

Peanut, long fruit, I wish your family health and longevity.

In the eyes of Hainan people, all folk customs are artificially formulated according to people's will and wishes. Therefore, in Hainan dialect, all folk behaviors begin with the word "do", such as doing Qingming and marriage (that is, getting married), while northerners "celebrate the New Year" and Hainan dialect calls it "do the year". It should be noted that "Chinese New Year" means "resigning the old year", that is, celebrating the Spring Festival. In the north, people celebrate New Year's Day, while in Hainan, people call it "New Year's Day". However, in rural Hainan, "Chinese New Year" is not the "manner" of that year.

As the saying goes in Hainan, "The year is afraid of the Mid-Autumn Festival, and the month is afraid of the 15th". After the Mid-Autumn Festival, the countryside began to prepare for the "New Year": castrating cocks, filling fat ducks, keeping domestic pigs in captivity, and preparing lucky money. As soon as we enter the end of December of the lunar calendar, the atmosphere of "Chinese New Year" is getting stronger and stronger!

The first is to send "jujube tribute" on1February 24th. Legend has it that "Duke Zao" is a god sent by the Jade Emperor to supervise good and evil. He reports to the Jade Emperor on this day every year. To this end, every household should clean the front and back, inside and outside, up and down of the house with bamboo sticks or bamboo sticks, and the incense burner should also be cleaned and replaced with new ashes. In the evening, people will prepare wine and fruit as sacrifices to see "bordeaux" off.

As soon as "bordeaux" was delivered, the head of the family was busy "going to the market". In the past, towns and rural "cities" had 365 days a year, and only a few days ago did they "get rich" and "get rich"! Sell three birds, gold and silver incense sticks, Beijing Fructose Cake, "Doll Painting" (New Year Pictures), "Wang Le Plaster" (that is, walking in the Jianghu), bowls, chopsticks, clay pots, "New Year Oranges" and all kinds of clothes ... If you sell them, you will buy them, pork, dried vegetables and wet vegetables (even if farmers carry their burdens and push their new year's goods by car). They took out all the money they had worked so hard to save for a year! These days have produced a year of energy consumption!

"The City of Origin" acquaintances asked each other when they met: "Second brother! Is' castrated chicken' (that is, castrated cock) very fat? " "Three sister-in-law! Is there a' chicken castration' this year? " "Three old ladies! Do you work in your home (that is, your home) (children who work outside) want to come back for the New Year? " "Two male! Do you have an annual review in Nanyang (referring to the New Year letter sent back by relatives in Nanyang)? "

People are filled with the joy of "celebrating the New Year", and put up bought New Year pictures in the living room, put up couplets on the lintels, and some people put up "profitable" red paper on furniture and fruit trees. A few days ago, every household was busy soaking glutinous rice, grinding rice pulp and making rice cakes, while Wenchang and other places were busy making rice candy and peanut candy (these rice cakes are made in large quantities, which can be used for personal use or as gifts, usually until the end of the month).

At this time, all the dignitaries and literati who worked in large, medium and small cities, peddled husbands and pawns, led cars and sold pulp, honored their ancestors, and were short of money returned to their hometown where they were born and raised. ...

There is a two-part allegorical saying in Hainan: "Thirty nights-the anvil can't be idle". Because in Hainan, no matter how poor people are, they have to kill chickens and ducks when they borrow money to eat rice on the thirtieth day of the twelfth lunar month. Seven bowls of braised pork, trotters, meat dishes and vegetarian dishes were placed on the Eight Immortals table in front of the incense burner, and firecrackers were set off after the ancestor worship ceremony. When the food is cold enough, they will take it down and eat New Year's Eve around the stove. On New Year's Eve, men, women and children should put on new clothes after taking a bath, which means sending the old and welcoming the new. Even in the era of tickets, kerosene is usually saved. Since the evening of the 30th, the room has been lit, and the family has lights all day and night until the next morning. Commonly known as "lighting a lamp", it means "adding Ding to make a fortune". On the evening of 30th, many people stayed up all night until the first day of the Lunar New Year. At this time, according to the time, every household is scrambling to set off New Year's greetings, which means "welcome to spring". Then the younger generation kowtows, salutes and congratulates the elders, and the elders give them "lucky money".

In the early morning of the first day, people, old and young, have to get up and eat "fast food" (clean and white food to commemorate their ancestors). "Vegetarian food" is not only similar to Muslim halal food, but also just like northerners must eat fish during the New Year (more than one year). What they eat must have auspicious meanings, including fried eggplant (which means that eggplant is getting better every year in Hainan dialect), fried celery (homophonic with "Qin" and "diligence", I hope the whole family will work hard in the new year) and long vermicelli (meaning life).

On New Year's Day, there are many taboos: you can't carry water (fill the water tank on New Year's Eve), you can't sweep the floor (even firecrackers and scraps of paper can't sweep away the "God of Wealth"), you can't scold each other, you can't fight, you can't break utensils (meaning "harmony"), and you must say happy New Year words when you meet. ...

The customs of New Year greetings vary from place to place in Hainan. In some places, people pay New Year greetings on the second day of the first year, but they have no taste on the fourth day of the third year. In some places, people can't pay New Year greetings at home on the first day. In New Year's greetings, oranges or orange leaves are usually added to the gifts to express "good luck this year".

The next day, the married daughter took her husband and children back to her family to pay a New Year call. If she goes back to her parents' home to pay New Year greetings in the first year of marriage, she will bring her own firecrackers and put a string of firecrackers in front of the door for her to see. Paying New Year greetings to parents-in-law is the most solemn New Year greeting for daughter-in-law On this day, the rest of the family (especially the elders) must stay at home and accept their congratulations. Father-in-law and mother-in-law should prepare a rich banquet. When my daughter and son-in-law leave in the afternoon, they must give their daughters candy and rice cakes wrapped in red paper as "welcome".

On the third day, some places in Hainan are called "fried test", that is, dry rice, chicken and duck heads and duck feet specially cooked on New Year's Eve are fried in a frying pan before eating, to show that there is something left over from last year to this year, and also to show that this year has passed.

Haikou people say "fast", in a broad sense, is a vegetarian.

When the new year comes, put up red lights and put up couplets. The streets and alleys of Haikou are really lively! Every year on New Year's Eve, every household in Haikou is busy preparing food in the kitchen. On the one hand, the chicken, duck and fish on the New Year's Eve are full of fragrance, on the other hand, the dishes such as mushrooms, black bean sprouts, beets, cress and dried beancurd are all placed neatly, which are vegetarian dishes prepared for the first day. On New Year's Day, it is a traditional custom for every household to eat "Zhai".

Tasty zhaicai

At Lao Wang's home in Xinhua South Road, Haikou, every Lunar New Year's Eve is a festive and lively scene. Wang Apo, Lao Wang's wife, said that every year when preparing the New Year's Eve dinner, we would wash the "vegetarian dishes" for the New Year and put them in the cupboard. After the New Year's Eve dinner, the younger generation will pay New Year greetings to the elders, and the elders will give the younger generation lucky money. The whole family will chat over tea and stay up all night. It's called shou sui. Housewives will fry the food prepared for fasting and put it on a plate to worship God. After the New Year bell rings, the whole family will be busy bringing steaming vegetarian dishes to God's table, as well as wine, tea, rice, incense and New Year fruits. Parents will lead everyone to worship God and pray for peace in the coming year, and later they will worship their ancestors instead. Now, some young people wait for CCTV to ring the bell on the first day of the new year at the Spring Festival Gala broadcast on New Year's Eve, and then start praying for the New Year, while others go out to play with friends after dinner. Whether the younger generation has a birthday or not, the elders in the family will still prepare vegetarian food on the first day of the new year every year. Haikou people don't eat a vegetarian meal for the New Year, just like northerners don't eat jiaozi for the New Year.

Beautiful Haikou

Haikou Zhai Cai Bao is a traditional folk dish in Hainan. Its prototype is vegetarian dishes of fungi, fruits, vegetables and bean products cooked by Taoism and Buddhism, also known as "temple dishes". It is said that the folk vegetarian custom in China existed as early as the pre-Qin period more than 2,000 years ago. When Buddhism was introduced to China, Han monks became vegetarians. Later, the vegetarian dishes in the temple can be matched with high-quality vegetarian dishes. Vegetarian cooking in temples has developed, which is unique in people's diet and life, and has promoted the folk vegetarian customs. Traditional Hainan vegetarian dishes are supplemented by day lily, yuba, vermicelli and beans. The fresh and smooth vermicelli is smooth and tender, the yuba is soft and fragrant, and with the delicate flavor of mushrooms, beans and beets, it can be said that it is fragrant when boiled.

The beauty of Haikou city

The method of making Haikou vegetarian pot is very particular. First, soak dried vegetables such as yuba, vermicelli, day lily, shiitake mushroom, auricularia auricula, etc., soak them in boiling water, filter and dry them, then stir-fry them with hot oil and simmer them for later use. Wash and cut black bean sprouts, beets, cress, etc. Stir-fry separately and add half flavor; Cut the dried bean curd into long strips, fry it in hot oil until it is yellow, and then add seasoning until it is half-flavored. Then, heat the pot. After the oil is hot, put all the ingredients in, add water, add some soy sauce, monosodium glutamate and sesame oil, and cook thoroughly with slow fire. Then, according to the color of the raw materials, the cooked vegetarian dishes are put into a casserole at regular intervals, and they can be eaten after being cooked with medium heat. This dish is bright in color, smooth and crisp, fragrant in smell, attractive in appetite, and beneficial to physical and mental health if eaten regularly.

Wang Apo said that the biggest feature of vegetarianism is that it does not use animal raw materials, but not all vegetables can be used as vegetarian raw materials, and even some plant raw materials, such as garlic and pickles, are prohibited. Wang Apo said:

"Every material in vegetarian dishes is the experience left by several generations, which is carefully selected and meaningful."

The raw materials of vegetarian dishes are mostly homophonic dishes, and dishes with auspicious meanings are selected. Such as beets, meaning sweetness and happiness in life; Oenanthe javanica, which means diligence and hard work, is intended to get rich through hard work in the new year; Green garlic means that you will say and calculate, and you will not suffer; The word arrow is a homonym of "going to the old" in Hainan dialect, which means to bid farewell to the old and welcome the new; Thorn powder is a kind of vermicelli, which means a long stream of fine water and family management; Lily means day lily, which means wealth and solid family background; Auricularia auricula, also known as auricularia auricula, is called cat's ear in Hainan dialect, which means to listen to the words of elders and be filial; Sweet bamboo is a kind of yuba, which means "bamboo" to go further; Dried soybeans are cut into strips and dyed golden yellow in vegetarian dishes, which means making a fortune; Peanut is a long-lived fruit. I wish your family health and longevity.

In fact, the dining style of Hainan folk families does not pay attention to setting the table. When eating, add all the ingredients into the casserole, stir and boil. The more they are cooked, the more fragrant and delicious they are. Fried salted peanuts are packed in a small plate and eaten with vegetarian dishes. They can also be paired with freshly steamed or fried Hainan rice cakes, which are more delicious.

Lao Wang's daughter has a friend named Xiao Feng. She didn't go back to her hometown in the north this Spring Festival and was invited to Lao Wang's home for the New Year. The vegetarian food she ate on the first morning left an unforgettable impression on her. She said that on the first day of New Year's Day, the room was filled with a strong smell of vegetables, and she was invited into the main hall. On the square table of the Eight Immortals, steaming vegetarian dishes and various vegetarian dishes have been set. During the dinner, Xiao Feng also served dishes for Wang Apo according to local customs, and said some auspicious words to wish her health and longevity. The rectification of vegetarian meals has always rippled with a warm, happy, auspicious, harmonious and beaming New Year atmosphere.

Xiao Feng also said that Haikou people don't need to include jiaozi as their hometown. According to the Chinese New Year custom in Haikou, the New Year's Eve dinner is very rich, with high-end delicacies such as chicken, salted duck, mackerel, shrimp and cuttlefish. Everyone feels a little greasy after eating big fish and meat. Eating fast on the first day of the next day is exactly what everyone wants. She said:

"These vegetarian dishes are really interesting. Every vegetarian dish has profound meaning and strong cultural customs. Fasting on the first day of the New Year not only adjusts the diet structure of the New Year, but also is very beneficial to health. I was attracted by the food culture of fasting on the first day of Hainan New Year. "

Lao Wang's daughter also agrees with the habit of eating vegetarian food on the first day. She said:

"Eating vegetarian food on the New Year's Day in Haikou is a custom of the Spring Festival handed down by our ancestors. On the first day, you don't eat meat, so you must eat quickly, which means that you won't kill anything in the next year, so it's clean; Eating' fast food' on the ninth day of the first month will make this day safe and auspicious. "

In recent years, vegetarian dishes have entered the food market because of their health-preserving efficacy and unique taste, and have been greatly welcomed by consumers. There are restaurants specializing in vegetarian dishes in major cities of Hongkong and China, and the business is very prosperous. Although there is no vegetarian franchise store in Hainan at present, "vegetarian pot" has become a fashionable dish promoted by many Chinese restaurants in Haikou. Its production method is slightly improved on the basis of Haikou traditional folk method, so it is called "Hainan vegetarian pot" and has been widely welcomed by diners all over the world.