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1March, 947 (February of the lunar calendar), Ms. He, a cultural relic scientist, went sightseeing with some friends. This is her first visit to Zhong Nanshan, and she was deeply impressed by the scenery and people in the mountains.

After returning, Ms. He wrote the article "Looking for Dreams".

He was Huang Zheng when he was young.

This article describes in detail what I saw and heard in the mountains. Although it was written in modern prose, it was fluent and won the exquisiteness of China's classical writing. Among the travels of Zhongnanshan, this one is probably the most worth reading and rereading.

The original text was published in the third issue of Travel Magazine 1948.

Zhong Nanshan Dream

First of all, the final South is just around the corner.

For five years, Zhong Nanshan has been a distant screen in front of my window. In these five years, it has been with me and has become a good friend in my life.

Misty rain in Central and South China 1933

Rain or shine, Zhong Nanshan dazzles us with all kinds of wonderful lights and colors. Sometimes "the mountains are washed by clear clouds and beautiful as wiping"; Sometimes, the clouds are half around, and the skirt is cut off; Sometimes heavy makeup packages, such as white dragons hanging in the air; And all this is my favorite. No early spring, no grooming; Don't wake up in the autumn night, stand small after soaking in the moon; I always want to spend some time to open the south window and make a long-term "stare" at it.

He and Wang Ziyun.

In the spring and a half of this year, Yun (Wang Ziyun) proposed to make the last southern tour during the spring break. I wanted to object, because I didn't want to turn my long-lost friend into an ordinary acquaintance, but I was finally stuck by two "Qin people" and had to agree.

It's February of the lunar calendar, and apricot blossom furniture has blossomed. But I'm afraid we can't take Chang 'an as an example in the deep mountains. Although you can wear thin spring clothes today, you still take warm clothes when you travel.

The jeep is borrowed, and it takes four people, just right. /kloc-leave at 0/2, exit Xi 'an Annan Gate, and drive radially south. After Xingjiao Temple, there is no road, and the road is straight. In a short time, the peak of Cuihua Mountain is gradually in sight.

Xia 1936

Cuihua is a famous mountain peak in the south and a famous scenic spot on the outskirts of Chang 'an. There is also a Tianchi Lake nearby, which is also a place to visit Shang Hui. Because it is close, I plan to visit tomorrow.

Second, the white-haired beauty travels to the south

It was just after three o'clock when the bus arrived at Taiyi Palace. Now there are garrisons in the palace. They negotiated with the person in charge to get permission and moved in to have a rest.

The style of Taiyi Palace Daoyuan still exists, but many slogans have been added. The room is small, but clean, and there is a screen floor, which is finally rare here.

It used to be a secluded mountain pass, and the meridian exit of the ancient plank road is here (the author made a mistake here, the entrance and exit should be the exit of the ancient Qin Chu Road), and it is also the terminal of the bus in the southern suburbs, so there is a small market, but only pies and coarse noodles can satisfy the hunger.

Xia Lao (one of his Qin compatriots) has a friend who lives near the village. He made a special trip here, took this place as the only way to Tianchi Temple, pointed out the direction, and we will gather there tomorrow morning to walk together, and we will live in Taiyi Palace.

Rosty Yi got up early and the street was empty. He wants to buy a basin of water to wash his face. He knocked on the door several times before buying it, and came out after washing his face. He urged a small shop to pull the bellows to cook some eggs for breakfast, brought some hard and thick cakes, and went on his way.

Zhong Nanshan 1937

After a garden, a dry river piled with stones and some ditches, it reached the cypress forest that Xia Lao referred to yesterday. The village is hidden in the depths of Berlin, and the houses are grottoes, secluded and quiet, just like a fairyland. When I found Xia Lao, he was smoking a cigarette in the wheat field outside the cave and introduced his friend Jiao Mou, an old man with a white beard, but he was also interested. Dai Li joined our team on crutches. Lei Jun hummed two doggerels: "Snow red apricots become wonders, and white-haired beauties travel south of the Yangtze River".

That is, from the back wall of the grottoes to the mountain, the mountain road is Shang Ping, and the mountainside is layered. Everything is for wheat, flat, green and lovely. The road gradually widened, and Xia Lao told me that the king of Qin in the Ming Dynasty believed in Buddhism and specially built a road from Anton Pass to Tianchi Temple, commonly known as Imperial Road.

We walked on the imperial road, getting higher and higher, and looking back at Shenheyuan, we can remember it vividly. There are many stone buddhas on the roadside, as well as works of the Tang Dynasty. However, due to the strong and long-term wind and sun erosion, we returned to the original stone. The mountains are full of peaks and mountains, and the mountains are flowing. One or two goshawks are hovering up and down in the empty valley, which is quite interesting.

Third, Tianchi Temple

The mountain road suddenly turned a corner, and when I looked up, a tower rose, temples appeared, and Tianchi Temple arrived.

Xia and Jiao went in to discuss tea, and we rested on the highland outside.

The wind is blowing slightly, bringing the breath of spring. The sky is blue and transparent, and there is a tower in front of the temple, which is quite beautiful. From a distance, you can see the Nanwutai archway standing behind the tower. The scenery is beautiful and moving, especially a few half-opened peach blossoms and a group of wild pigeons flying around the tower, which makes people indulge in a quiet beauty.

Ms. He took photos at Tianchi Temple. 1947.

The monks invited us in and entertained us with stocks and dried fruits. This temple is very large, with broken foundations and piled-up waste stoves everywhere. It is conceivable that the incense was at its peak, but now it is very desolate. Except for the so-called temple fair, it seems that there are not many tourists at ordinary times. The temple is full of fine bamboo, delicate and green, which is the most lively ornament of the whole temple. We painted everywhere, and all four places were quiet.

Lunch in the temple is still plain and clean. After dinner, choose a path down the mountain and go around an abandoned tower. Most people don't like this tower, because the tower body has fallen down, especially the lower floor, which has collapsed and broken. Bricks have been piled all over the floor, and they are heavy on the top and light on the bottom, and they will be dumped soon. But its format structure, in its immortal structure, shows that it is indeed a Tang object, which is better than the original tower in front of the temple.

I drew some pictures. The sun is setting and the mountain road is rugged. I dare not stay long. When I found my way back to Taiyi Palace, it was already dusk.

Fourth, go straight to Qingyun.

1 1 In the morning, I packed my bags and resigned as the head of Taiyi Palace. I went directly to Cuihua Mountain, and the mountains were all within the range of progress, so the road was wide and well repaired. There are springs all over the mountain along the way, and the scenery is beautiful. I met you all the way. If you are not a soldier, you will be a woodcutter. Only these two people are blessed to enjoy this elegance in the mountains. On the cliff by the road, including vines and moss, I wrote.

Because it is a military area, you can't take pictures or draw pictures. I went to the post and asked, knowing that there was still ten miles above, and there was no place to live. I'm not disappointed, and I'm afraid I won't be able to catch a rest place tonight, so I decided to return and take the road to Nanwutai.

Zhong Nanshan Waterfall 1935

It's just that the woodcutter's path is not so wide and flat. There are winding paths leading to a secluded place, but there are also streams and small waterfowl dotted with silence. I'm already a little tired. Fortunately, I have a good interest in Xia Lao, singing folk songs of Shaanxi opera all the way, which often makes everyone laugh and relieves my drowsiness.

After walking for two hours, I walked up the winding and narrow stairs, as if it were an endless long ladder, leading straight to Qingyun. At first, I broke out in a sweat, then it got higher and higher, and the climate suddenly became cold, so I had to put on my coat.

It was not until dusk that we reached a towering ridge. Looking around, we suddenly became enlightened. The mountains are vast, and in the afterglow of the sunset, we are covered with light, and the undulating cotton cloth is under our feet, like the wild waves of the sea, magnificent and frightening.

I am anemic and dare not look down. And it's getting late, and there are still four miles uphill, which requires us to make a final effort in great fatigue and continue to climb. Stay in the ravine when it snows, and the climate is colder. But the mountain scenery is excellent, and there are pictures everywhere. On the one hand, we miss the absolutely beautiful and quiet mountain scenery, on the other hand, we are really tired and struggling. At the end of the road, we just take a rest every three steps.

After twists and turns, the team kept going until the afterglow was gone and people were exhausted. At this time, they reached a canyon. The mountains are getting deeper and deeper in the dusk. Just when they were confused, they suddenly heard the faint sound of night bells and wooden fish under their feet. They looked down. Suddenly, they saw a magnificent temple, half exposed under the valley, surrounded by cigarettes and flickering candlelight. Everyone couldn't help cheering.

Verb (abbreviation for verb) big hair shed

Walking down the stone steps and down the cliff valley, Xia Lao hobbled along. When everyone entered the temple, we were welcomed by the monks. We were very tired, so we had to rest in this clean room, with tea in our hands, and we didn't feel tired at all. The monks prepared dinner, lit candles and talked. Outside the window, the mountains are rolling and the pines are roaring. The fun of living in the mountains really makes me unforgettable in my life.

Pine forest in Zhong Nanshan 1906

The so-called Da Maopeng is the hermitage of monks. As early as the Tang dynasty, monks settled in this deep valley, and then the incense became more and more prosperous and expanded in scale. Today's temples are quite new, specially prepared for pilgrims facing Wutai in the south. The guest house is clean and good. Although it is in the deep mountains, food and grain can be arranged. Now, although the exterior is covered with gray tiles and painted beams and columns, it still maintains the mantle and uses the old name of Da Maopeng. Shortly after sitting down, Xia Lao was already lying on the heatable adobe sleeping platform, snoring loudly. We also held candles and slept in another small hostel.

South Wutai Tower 1936

I got up a little late the next morning because I was so tired yesterday. Two gentlemen in Xia Lei have stepped onto the big stage to watch the sunrise. The so-called grand stage, the Adai Peak, is the highest peak of the South Wutai Mountain, only half a mile away from Da Maopeng. I have come back after washing my face, saying it's cloudy today, but it's a pity that the sunrise has come. We plan to get up early, because breakfast is coming soon. First, I stood idly on the cliff outside the temple, only to see clouds and waves like the sea, surrounded by gullies, and peaks towering in the clouds, such as countless islands, with pine branches faintly exposed in the distance, but blurred in the distance.

Clouds in Zhong Nanshan in the Republic of China

At this time, a monk handed us a book called "Guanyin Bodhisattva Induction", and opened the first paragraph, which was the story of Long Fu in Wutai, South China. The monk even vividly pointed out the positions of Longshi and Fulongping contained in the book. Originally, we didn't believe this, but now we are standing on the extreme peak of Zhongnanshan, with the sea of clouds, bells and ancient temples as the background. Listen to these stories.

Sixth, Dayun

1934 (painting by Lin Sanzhi)

After breakfast, my staff and I boarded the platform, and the snow melted all the way, making it difficult to walk. It was more than half a mile, which means I climbed to the top. This is the highest point of the five peaks. Its coolness, its manjusri and its seclusion are all under my eyes. The peaks I saw in the morning are even more beautiful than the first step.

Clouds still rise from the headland of Ran Ran, covering the whole world with thick gauze. After standing on the top of the cliff, we can't say anything about the silent and colorless and desperate situation a few months ago. Unexpectedly, Wan Li finally arrived in the south. Today, it turns out that we laymen deeply appreciate the artistic conception of empty tones.

Wutai Sacrificial Platform in Zhongnanshan 1935

The clouds are getting thicker and thicker, so close at hand that it is difficult to distinguish. The distant peaks just seen, such as the islands listed in the sea, are no longer visible at this time, but the white clouds are soft and wet, and gradually become thicker and thicker. I can't even do photography and painting, and I'm quite hesitant.

Looking at the clouds on the South Wutai, 20 18 (photo by Pu Liang)

In fact, today's most loyal paintings and photos should all be a blank sheet of paper, because everything in front of us, except the boundless pure white world, has no trace of the shape and color that can enter the picture and lens, and this famous painting can only be engraved in the bottom of my heart forever, but it can't be shown to people. No one will believe that this piece of white paper is the masterpiece of Zhongnanshan at this moment. Since painting and photography are impossible, it would be too lonely to go back to the temple for seclusion. Instead, we agreed to go down the mountain and come back another day, so we went back to Da Maopeng, packed our bags, bid farewell to the monks, boarded the plane together and went down the mountain by another road.

Unexpectedly, after dozens of steps, the cloud turned into Mao Mao rain. At first, we thought it was the cold climate that caused the rain to fall on the mountain, and it was still cloudy below, but the rain became denser and denser, and the mountain road became slippery and the leaves were wet. It was quite difficult to walk on the mountain road, and everyone had nothing to shelter from the rain, so we had to let it drip. After a while, it rained more and the empty valley was full of rain.

The realm of "empty valley and spiritual rain" has always been fascinating, and I am sincerely happy to meet it by chance today. However, the clothes were soaked, the shoes and socks were soaked, and the rain fell into the neck. At sixes and sevens like a drowned rat, it is even more ridiculous to see Xia Lao's bald head exposed in the rain.

Seventh, get this good experience.

I finally found a small temple by the roadside. I was overjoyed to see the word "Zizhulin" written on the door. Lei Jun knocked on the door and didn't respond for a long time. Xia Lao pushed hard, but the door was not bolted. Because everyone went in, he crossed the bamboo path in the rain and sought shelter from the rain. For a long time, he was blind. He replied that the temple was introverted and didn't stay. On the downhill side, there are three sacred palaces.

In a hurry to thank, we went down the mountain in the rain and turned into a valley. If we see a temple, knock on the door and a Taoist comes out. Although he was not a sage, he allowed us to spend the night. It rained even harder and the valley was dark. We are almost as happy as a savior to this Taoist priest.

Entering Sanxian Palace, the original windows were clean and spotless. We are ashamed to describe it. It is not good to enter the guest room slowly. First, we sat on the veranda, waiting for the little monk to light the water. Everyone takes turns changing mud shoes and socks. Xia Lao changed a pair of boots and entered the guest room one after another.

Zhong Nanshan Cangsong Ancient Temple 1936

The guest room is small and exquisite, elegantly decorated, with simple fruit boxes on the table, apricot flowers in full bloom in the bottle and strange couplets hanging on the wall. We all sat down, and the big windows and thin curtains were hot and dry, which was unexpected and gratifying.

The scenery outside the window changes rapidly, just like a dream. At this time, the tea is in hand, the rain is full of ears, and the cloud and Lei Jun each draw a picture.

In order to prepare dinner, Taoist priests prepared several dishes of pickles, bowls of soft noodles, and greeted the window with vegetables. He is very happy. After dinner, I listened to Xia Lao talking about the miracle of Mount Zhongnan, the ancient saying of Chang 'an and the legendary slang. Everyone in Shan Yu was laughing outside the window, so he felt lively. In the evening, he cut off the candles and went to bed. Yesterday was the monk's house, today is the Taoist temple, and he feels heart failure.

Cliffs and pine trees in Mount Zhong Nanshan 1936

After a night of rain, I got up early and saw the nearby mountains with bright and heavy colors. Tian She, a river at the foot of the mountain, is gradually looming. But the mountains in the distance are still white, little rain gradually turns into snow, the sky is flying, and the weather is getting cold. We looked at each other and were in a hurry. However, swimming in the south and encountering snow is not a good story in my memory.

Zhong Nanshan Ancient Temple 1934 (painting by Lin Sanzhi)

However, we have to be left behind. Snowflakes were big and dense, and soon all the mountains turned white. We can also be divided into distant rivers, gray cliff valleys, new green fields and pine trees, first-class mountain roads, and occasionally a corner of Wang Si Temple. The scenery is beautiful, and everyone painted a lot of pictures while enjoying it.

In the afternoon, when I was tired of painting, the Taoist priest took out a pair of chess. It is still snowing, and everyone is playing chess for fun. The Taoist priest moved out of Yin Fujing of Tao Te Ching. We turned a few pages, but finally we couldn't find the way, so we had to put it aside. Taoist priests never tire of guests and never disturb others. He always entertained us at a proper distance, which made me always dissatisfied with Taoist priests and changed.

Eight, explore the mountain.

Another day, I got up in the morning and opened the window to have a look. The snow is as deep as a foot, but the sky is as blue as Wei, and the sun is shining high. Everyone decided to pack their bags and explore the mountains. When I left, I felt reluctant to part with the elegant Taoist temple and the kind Taoist priest. The Taoist sent out the gate and gave everyone a crutch to shovel snow.

It is difficult to walk when the snow is deep, and everyone becomes an expedition member, especially when the weather gets warmer and the snow melts and it is slippery when going down the mountain.

Further down, the snow trail is thinner and thinner, and the sunshine is more and more brilliant, which gradually dries our shoes and socks that have changed from stepping on snow to being wet.

Zhongnan Mountain1965438+March 8, 2004

It's a wonderful spring at the foot of the mountain, which doesn't conform to the description of our party at all. We don't seem to believe that we will come in the heavy wind and snow just now. Looking up at Nanjun Peak, I saw a rugged mountain peak. Da Maopeng and Sanqing Palace had already been blocked in the depths of white clouds. If we don't have crutches clearly in our hands, we really will.

This article is published exclusively by The Story of Zhong Nanshan.