First meeting Nayong

First acquaintance with Nayong

?Author | Guo Chunbai

Although I have lived and worked in Nayong for more than thirty years, my understanding of Nayong is still unknown. Still a little rough and a little blurry. Not to mention anything else, we haven’t even finished visiting the more than 20 towns and villages in Nayong yet!

It has been nearly 20 years since I left Nayong to make a living elsewhere.

Twenty years ago, the impression given to Nayong was nothing more than poverty and backwardness. The vicious "curse" of "Na (Yong) Wei (Ning) He (Zhang), you can't go", like a heavy haze, has shrouded Na Yong for many years!

Many years ago, Nayong County was a place where a city didn’t look like a city, and a rural area didn’t look like a countryside. A few cramped streets, just light a cigarette and walk through them in a few clicks. At dawn and dusk, the sounds of chickens and dogs are endless; every time a deceased person ascends to heaven, Xiao's family holds a funeral in the street. There is noisy music, suonas, and cannons for days and nights. During the day and night, there is a smoky atmosphere... The small county town is just like the gray-headed people in the local area. The second brother Mei has no energy at all.

In the past few years, Nayong, a small, poor and backward mountainous county, has caught the express train of Guizhou’s development: the two expressways of Hangrui and Xiarong intersect in Nayong County, starting from Guiyang, the provincial capital. The railway to Nayong was opened to traffic, and the transportation bottleneck restricting the development of Nayong was broken. Nowadays, this "Second Brother Coal" from Tulabaji suddenly took off his homespun shirt and got rid of his rustic clothes. High-rise buildings are rising from the ground, bridges are flying from east to west, and the new district of the county is expanding towards Juren. Industry, education and other business layouts have also been launched in Juren area. A vibrant new city and a brand-new development avenue have greatly improved Nayong's external image, and at the same time restored the self-confidence of Nayong people.

For Nayong, it is necessary to re-examine and understand it!

In addition to the county town that dazzled us, there are also those mountains, those waters, those flowers, and those distant places full of psychedelic colors!

Nayong is a world of mountains, a "kingdom" of mountains. In addition to mountains, it is still a mountain!

In the past, the mountains in Nayong that impressed me most were Jiaozi Mountain and Mazhao Ridge. In the late 1970s, Nayong built the first TV broadcast station in the county on Jiaozi Mountain in the east of the county. That was when black-and-white television, a new thing, first came to this small and isolated county. Information from the outside world was transmitted to those homes with black-and-white televisions through the relay station in Jiaozi Mountain. Therefore, at that time, Jiaozi Mountain was undoubtedly full of mystery to many people. Its degree of mystery is no less than those of today's "holy mountains" with Buddha lights and temples!

As for Mazhao Ridge, it is said that it was once the place where Pegasus transported coal. A galloping "Pegasus" held its noble head high and its mane fluttered in the wind. Therefore, for many years, Mazhao Ridge has been a symbol of the "Nayong spirit": it indicates that Nayong is like a horse, galloping forward with its hooves and mane...

In my youth, be generous Visit the County Maochang Sulfur Factory and pass by Jiudongtian and Liuzhong Ladder Rock to reach Gungan Rock. The first time I saw Gungangan Rock, I felt that the straight "gungan" was so magical! Over the years, Nayong has built Qiangganyan into a tourist attraction that integrates fruit trees, tourist agriculture, red culture, ethnic customs and natural landscapes. Under the background of poverty alleviation and rural revitalization strategies, Qiangganyan Village has changed its appearance. It's not what it used to be, it's completely new.

Walking in Qiangganyan Village, the clear and bright mountain stream flows in a winding way. Seeing such clear mountain water, I suddenly thought that if I set up a giant salamander farm here, I might be able to earn some points for this tourist attraction!

Walking on the mountain path, I heard the "Flying Song" of a Miao girl not far away. I felt that the singing was extremely pure, as pure as those crystal clear streams!

When I was still working in Nayong, I heard from my friends that the "Leibao Mountain" located in Yangchang Township is the highest peak in Nayong and is known as "Tibet in Nayong".

Because there is no opportunity, I have never been able to reach "Nayong's Tibet"!

The Nayong people call "Toad" "Leibao". Therefore, the current "Leibao Mountain" already has a very respectable name: Golden Toad Mountain. In recent years, Nayong has spent enough manpower and material resources to build Jinchan Mountain, and has also spent a lot of effort on publicity. In a few years, Jinchan Mountain will surely become the tourist "highland" of Nayong!

Another famous mountain in Nayong is Dapingqing!

In the past, I didn’t know there was such a place as Dapingqing in Nayong. I only know that there is a large mountain near Nayong County called "Doupengqing". It is a barrier located in the south of Nayong County. It extends from the south to the west and forms a semi-encircling structure with Mazhao Ridge, which "encircles Nayong". "stand up. Doupengqing is as famous as Mazhaoling. In the past, many literati in Nayong have written about them.

Today, Dapingqing is much more famous than Doupengqing. The reason is simple. Dapingqing has successfully applied for a national wetland park. Previously, I had read relevant introductions and learned that there are many rare animals and plants in Dapingqing. I'm thinking that this kind of place may be a piece of pure land left by God to us in Nayong!

Starting from Nayong County, the car slowly snaked along the winding mountain road. After walking for about 40 minutes, it finally reached the top of Dapingqing Mountain.

Standing on the top of Dapingqing Mountain, your field of vision suddenly widens. You can look at the distant peaks and sea of ??clouds, listen to the crisp chirping of birds, and breathe in the extremely fresh air, which makes you feel relaxed and happy.

There is a sudden peak at the top of Dapingqing, and the observation deck is built on the top of the peak. Standing on the viewing platform, you can also see the water at the foot of the mountain. The water is filled with mist, and the surrounding mountains are reflected in the water. It is a bit like a dream...

There is actually something on the top of such a high mountain. Such a clear spring really echoes the old saying "the water is as high as the mountains"!

Nayong is known as the "Plateau Water Town". Water is also a major feature of Nayong.

Zhongxi River, a tributary of the upper reaches of Wujiang River, forms an underground river at the junction of Nayong and Dafang. This is the famous Jiudongtian Scenic Area. It flows from north to northeast and then east, flowing from the Guazhong River into the Mukong River, rolling in the canyon formed at the junction of Nayong and Dafang counties, and flowing towards the Wujiang River, like half a "bracket", covering the entire Nayong River. Yongnang is in her arms...

On the lower reaches of the Mukong River, the Hongjiadu Hydropower Station has opened its gates to store water; on the upper reaches of the Zongxi River, the Jiayan Hydropower Project is under implementation. A big article about water is changing the future of Nayong!

Similarly, to the west and south of Nayong, the Sancha River in the upper reaches and the Nayong River in the lower reaches are still like the other half of the "brackets", encompassing Nayong in their arms. The implementation of the Central Guizhou Water Conservancy Project has made the Nayong River full of beautiful lakes and mountains. Under the blue sky and white clouds, among the pastoral songs, the beauty of Nayong River is fascinating!

When it comes to lakes in Nayong, the first one I got to know was the Shihe Reservoir. The junior high school graduation picnic that year was held next to the Guoshan River Reservoir. For those who have never seen the world before, I think the Guoshan River Reservoir is so spectacular and mysterious! Later, I went to teach at Luzui Primary School in Wangjiazhai. I passed by the Guoshan River Reservoir almost every week, and I became tired of crossing the Shanhe River.

After visiting the reservoirs of large power stations such as Xiangjiaba and Xiluodu on the Jinsha River and Xiaowan and Nuozhadu on the Lancang River, I felt that the Guoshan River Reservoir was too small and insignificant.

Unexpectedly, when I returned to Cross River 20 years later, she gave me a completely new feeling. The hills in the distance are reflected in the water, and the water is filled with mist, like a misty veil.

Standing on the ridge of the reservoir, the air is so fresh, and the scenery of the lake and mountains in the distance is so charming! Although she is not as majestic as those "giants" in Xiluodu and Xiangjiaba, she is as smart as Xiaojiabiyu!

Nayong County is surrounded by water on three sides. The Yangjia River and the Naomo River meet at the foot of the Twelve Bends of Elephant Trunk Ridge. They exit the Yudong River, pass through Longgu and Yizhong, and meet the Chaogua River. From Shuiluodong It enters the underground river, flows out from the water outlet, passes through the Hou River to Xia Mukong, meets the Mukong River and then flows into the Wu River...

In this regard, Nayong folk have such myths and legends: For many years In the past, there was an "evil obstacle" named "Little Black Dragon" that caused harm to Nayong. After the heaven learned about it, it sent Erlang Shen down to capture the little black dragon. Erlang Shen chased the little black dragon all the way to the Longgu and Yizhong areas. When it got dark, Erlang Shen got some straw to use as a torch to light up. As a result, the ashes of the burning straw scattered all the way. Therefore, there was coal in Longgu and Yizhong areas. Erlang Shen chased him to Chaogua River and planned to spend the night there. There were more mosquitoes at night, and they kept biting Erlangshen. Erlangshen was furious and cursed: "These are dead mosquitoes." As a result, Erlangshen scolded the mosquitoes in Tiaguahe River for being "deadly". There are still no mosquitoes in Tiaguahe River. . The little black dragon also blocked the river with his own body, trying to flood the Longgu and Yizhong areas into Zeguo. Erlang Shen found an iron rod and poked it hard, creating the current sinkhole and outlet hole. Erlang Shen chased the little black dragon to the foot of Elephant Trunk Ridge, then he pulled out his sword and slashed the little black dragon's "seven inches", which immediately knocked out the little black dragon's heart, forming today's "Longtou Mountain" and "Longxinzi" There are two mountains, one big and one small... Of course, these are just local folklore in Nayong.

I got news not long ago that a major event is brewing in Nayong: a dam will be built to block the Yangjia River and the Naoyong River to form a large reservoir. At that time, the old town of Nayong County will become A "peninsula" surrounded by water on three sides, the pattern of a "plateau water town" will no longer remain on the planning drawings.

At the same time, a beautiful incident is still brewing in the water town of Nayong.

Speaking of flowers in my hometown, what remains fresh in my memory is the sea of ??azaleas in full swing in Dajianshan. It was early spring, and the singing of the cuckoo was awakening the sleeping earth. The buzzing of bees could be faintly heard in the warm wind, and the tender fragrance made people wake up from a dream. Looking up, I saw the azaleas on Dajianshan setting the whole mountain on fire...

I have been away from home for too long, and I don’t know if the azaleas on Dajianshan are still as prosperous as ever. I only occasionally see from some media platforms in my hometown that in early spring, the agate red cherry blossoms bloom in full bloom along the Zongxi River, the rapeseed flowers in the Nayong River Reservoir area bloom into a golden scene, and the pigeon flowers in Dapingqing are like a field. Only white elves are dancing in the mountains...

Speaking of pigeon flowers, we have to talk about our "county flower" in Nayong. The scientific name of the dove flower is "Davidia involucrata". I first learned about Davidia involucrata and dovewood in Shuifu County, Yunnan Province. I was introduced by a tourism development boss in Shuifu County, saying that there were more Davidia involucrata growing in the Tongluoba Scenic Area in Shuifu County. It is also said that Davidia involucrata is the "giant panda" of the plant world. Since then, I have been curious about pigeon flowers.

Later I learned that my hometown of Nayong is one of the largest and most abundant natural distribution areas of Davidia glabra in the country. Therefore, it was named "Hometown of Chinese Davidia involucrata" by the State Forestry Administration. It has also been designated as the "county flower" of Nayong. As a result, songs related to pigeon flowers such as "I'm Waiting for You in the Pigeon Flower City" and "Pigeon Flower City" became popular in Nayong. Nayong has become a veritable "Pigeon and Flower City".

Although Dapingqing is a place with more dove flowers, I did not see Davidia involucrata in Dapingqing. I really saw Davidia involucrata in a place called Xiaotun in Qiling Town.

Xiaotun is undoubtedly a model of Nayong’s new rural construction! Every household in the village lives in newly built buildings, the village roads have been hardened and new, and flowers, trees and bonsais are planted in the courtyards of every household. The living environment is the envy of city residents. Several families have Davidia involucrata and large rhododendron trees planted in their yards.

If you come to see Xiaotun in spring, when the dove flowers are in bloom and the azaleas are in bloom, it will definitely give you a different feeling!

There are two "business cards" in Qianling Town, one is Xiaotun, and the other is Alpine Ecological Organic Tea - these are not only the business cards of Qianling Town, but even Nayong's On the business card, Nayong is known as the "Hometown of Ecological and Organic Tea in the High Mountains of China", which may also be related to the ecological and organic tea cultivation in Qiling Town!

A coal mine boss named Tan Zhengyi used to mine coal in the "mountain belly", but now he chooses to plant tea gardens on the mountain ridges, and has invested heavily in building ecological breeding farms and raising thousands of animals. Local Nuogu pigs, the biogas produced by pig manure is used to generate electricity, the biogas slurry is used to irrigate tea gardens, and the weeds eradicated in the tea gardens are used to feed Nuogu pigs. Such a circular economy is indeed worth admiring!

Nuogu pig is a specialty of Nayong. Ecologically farmed Nuogu pork is of better quality, fat but not greasy, glutinous and fragrant. This additional product derived from tea is also becoming a major brand in Nayong.

Previously, I visited large tea companies such as Dayi Tea Industry and Chensheng Tea Industry in Menghai County, Xishuangbanna, saw ancient tea trees on tea mountains such as Jingmai Mountain and Wuyi, and drank tea in Fengqing County , black tea from Changning County. Seeing the promotion of Guqing ancient tree tea and alpine ecological organic tea in my hometown in Nayong, I once felt a cold sweat about the prospects of tea in my hometown. I once muttered in my heart: Can Nayong's tea business be big?

However, after drinking the black tea produced by Tan Zhengyi's ecological agriculture development company, my worries were finally relieved. I never expected that my hometown Nayong could actually make black tea that tastes so good!

Speaking of Nayong’s business card, the Miao Lusheng Dance “Rolling Mountain Beads” is an unavoidable topic!

I have long known that "Rolling Mountain Pearl" is famous, but I have never seen the performance in person.

One year, when I was interviewing in Shuifu County, Yunnan Province, Xiong Qiliang, secretary of the Party branch of Sanjiao Village, Liangwan Town, knew that I was from Nayong, so he felt very cordial. He told me that he had been to Nayong County many times to observe and learn the Miao reed pipe dance "Rolling Mountain Pearl" and other Miao culture. He also invited the "Rolling Mountain Pearl" performance team to Pingtou Miao Village to participate in the local Huashan Festival performance. Only then did I realize that the Miao Lusheng Dance "Rolling Mountain Pearl" in Nayong was indeed famous and had an extraordinary influence.

The first time I actually watched the "Mountain Pearl" performance was at the Dongguan Township Tourist Service Center. A group of teenage Miao teenagers danced to the music. Their dance was rough and vigorous, and the performers were playing the Lusheng. Sometimes they roll their heads on the ground, sometimes they make thrilling movements like stacking Arhats, recreating the grand epic of the Miao compatriots overcoming obstacles and defeating nature!

"Gunshan Pearl" was formerly known as "Earth Dragon Gunjing". Nayong has been known as the "Black Sheep Daqing" since ancient times. It is full of thorns and has a harsh living environment. Generations of Nayong people have relied on hard work, bravery and wisdom to overcome the harsh natural environment - just like the Miao compatriots, they used their bodies to "roll" their own way in the thorny wilderness!

"Rolling Mountain Pearl" is a true portrayal of this spirit of not being afraid of difficulties and obstacles and facing difficulties!

Of course, in the vast land of Nayong, a different kind of "mountain bead rolling" drama is being staged in full swing among the ups and downs of the mountains and rivers!