Characteristics of ancient costumes

The characteristics of ancient costumes:

1 3rd generation

Hanfu in Xia, Shang and Zhou Dynasties did not really exist. According to the jade articles and stone statues unearthed from Houjiazhuang Tomb and Muhao Tomb in Anyang, it can be known that the nobles in Shang Dynasty wore collar clothes, a gentry belt around their waist, a petticoat under them, and a city (covering their knees) in front of their abdomen.

2. Spring and Autumn Period and Warring States Period

At this time, Hanfu Deep Clothes and Khufu became popular. Deep clothes are called deep clothes because they connect clothes that were not connected up and down in the past. Its hem is not sewn, but the skirt is extended and covered backwards, which is called "continuous sewing and hemming". Deep clothes were quite popular during the Warring States period, and there were people wearing deep clothes in the Zhou royal family and the relics of Zhao, Zhongshan, Qin and Qi.

Chu tombs reveal the deep clothes of folk figures, and the detailed structure is clearer. Short sleeves are a major feature of Chu clothing. Jiangling Mashan? 1 There is a short-sleeved "dress" in Chu Tomb, and clothes are clothes. According to Shuowen, this is a short suit. According to Zeng Houyi's clothes, it should be short-sleeved clothes.

3. Qin and Han Dynasties

The excavation of a large number of terracotta warriors and horses in the pit of Qin Shihuang Mausoleum provided sufficient examples for the samurai costumes in Qin and Han Dynasties. The half-length clothes they wear are relatively light, but they are still deep clothes, with pants below and a belt with hooks around their waist. This kind of clothing was still widely popular in the Western Han Dynasty, and pants gradually spread to the whole society.

In the Han Dynasty, sacrificial clothing was extended to "Great Unity", following the ancient ceremony of wearing a crown dress and wearing a jade pendant. Emperors, officials and princes all use large ones, but they only differ in the texture of the jade beads or silk threads to which they belong. Empress Dowager Cixi, Empress Dowager Cixi and Lady Komsomolsk's sacrificial clothes (temple clothes), silkworm clothes, court clothes and wedding clothes are all made of deep clothes.

In the Han dynasty, working women always wore short skirts and long skirts, and their knees were decorated with long pendants. Workers usually wear a raft, calf nose pants and a cloth skirt around their clothes. This kind of clothing is the same for slaves, serfs, businessmen and scholars.

4. Wei, Jin, Southern and Northern Dynasties

The political environment of Wei, Jin, Southern and Northern Dynasties made scholars have the ambition to be loyal to the monarch and serve the country, but it was useless. Because their political ambitions and life ideals can't be realized, scholars no longer limit themselves to Confucian rules too much, but begin to emphasize the liberation of self-personality.

So at that time, the society appeared the wind of praising clothes and belts, forming a unique Wei and Jin demeanor. Men are shirtless and shirtless, pursuing relaxed, natural and casual feelings; For women, long skirts mop the floor, big sleeves are graceful, and ribbons are layered, trying to show elegance and nobility. ?

During the Wei and Jin Dynasties, it was stipulated that the palace, China and Korea should take red and often purple. White serves ordinary people. At this time, the dress style is still dominated by skirts and dresses, and autumn is informal dress. Women's decorations are exquisite, such as gold rings, silver fingers and jumping around their wrists. There is still a big difference between the texture inside and outside the palace.

5. Sui and Tang Dynasties

In the Tang Dynasty, it was also very popular for women to wear "Khufu". "Khufu" is the costume of western people. The form of the belt is also deeply influenced by Khufu. Before this, people's waist ornaments were made of gold, silver, copper and iron. At this time, "water belt" with gold ornaments was popular, and the belt for tying things was short and small. This kind of belt was the most popular in the Tang Dynasty and lasted until the Northern Song Dynasty.

After the prosperous Tang Dynasty, the influence of Khufu gradually weakened, and the styles of women's clothes became wider and wider. In the middle and late Tang Dynasty, this feature was more obvious. Generally speaking, women's sleeves are often more than four feet wide. In the middle and late Tang Dynasty, aristocratic dresses were usually worn on important occasions. Wearing this kind of clothes, there are golden flowers in the hair, so it is also called "women's gift clothes".

After Tang Gaozong, purple is the representative color of military officials; Light scarlet is the color of five official uniforms, dark green is the color of six official uniforms, light green is the color of seven official uniforms, dark blue is the color of eight official uniforms, light blue is the color of nine official uniforms, and yellow is the color of outsiders and ordinary people.

Tang suit also has a great influence on neighboring countries. For example, Japan Heshun absorbed the essence of Tang costume to a great extent in color, and Korean costume also inherited the advantages of Tang costume in form. The lines of the Tang suit are long and soft, which is very beautiful and comfortable. The material used is mainly silk, so its clothes are famous for their softness and softness.

The Tang costume itself is varied and varied. It boldly absorbs the characteristics of foreign costumes from appearance to decoration, and draws lessons from foreign costumes in Central Asia, India, Iran, Persia, North China and the Western Regions, enriching the costume culture of the Tang Dynasty, making it colorful and unique, and becoming a wonderful work in China's historical costumes, attracting worldwide attention.

6. Song Dynasty

The costumes of the Song Dynasty generally followed the Tang system. At this time, the hoe was lined with wooden bones and covered with lacquer yarn, which was called "hoe hat" by Song people and could be taken off at will, which was very different from the soft-footed hoe that had to be temporarily wrapped in the early Tang Dynasty. At this time, the emperor and senior officials all wore exhibition feet, which stretched straight to both sides for several feet. A humble tolerance, servant, etc. Wear more hoes without feet.

Women in the Song Dynasty also wore skirts and tops. At this time, blouses were mostly double-breasted and covered outside skirts. The skirt is very narrow, and many folds are applied. In addition to the Luo skirt, Fuzhou Huangdi Mausoleum also has open crotch pants and closed crotch pants, which shows that women in the Song Dynasty wore pants inside the skirt. Foot-binding began in the Five Dynasties and was popular in the late Northern Song Dynasty.

7. Yuan Dynasty

The Yuan Dynasty was an era of ethnic integration in China's history, and costumes also fully reflected this feature. Genghis Khan, the founding emperor of the Yuan Dynasty, founded the capital in 1206. After the destruction of Xixia and Jin, the ethnic composition was mainly Mongolian. In the Yuan Dynasty, the textile industry and handicraft industry were greatly damaged due to the sharp ethnic contradictions. The court dress system has long been extended to the Song Dynasty.

It was not until Yuan Yingzong l32 1 that the ancient system was referred to and the system of "quality positive clothing" was formulated, which was called "monochrome clothing" or "quality positive clothing" by the Han people. This is a clothing system that inherits the Han nationality and has Mongolian characteristics.

8. Ming dynasty

The daily clothing of the Ming emperors was a dragon robe embroidered with dragon patterns, Zhai patterns and twelve chapters, which was generally made of yellow gauze with a golden crown. The emperor's formal attire still maintains the ancient system of upper garment and lower garment, which is composed of mysterious clothing, upper garment, leucorrhea, yellow knee covering, plain yarn and red belt.

Xuanyi weaves dragon patterns on the shoulders, stars and mountains on the back, fire, insects and Zong Yi patterns on the sleeves, and the collars, cuffs, skirts and ruffles are all true colors. Weaving algae, powdered rice, glutinous rice, glutinous rice.

In the early Ming Dynasty, it was required to restore the Tang system (as shown on the left), and its robe style was similar to that of the Tang Dynasty, except that the Jinxian crown was changed to the Liang crown, and the Zhongjing crown was added. In the Ming dynasty, official uniforms also used hats and round neck robes, but at this time the hats were painted with black paint, and the feet of the hats were short and wide, so they were called black hats. Civilians without official positions were not allowed to wear them.

In addition to coloring according to the grade regulations, the public service also patches the chest and back. Civil servants decorate birds, and officers decorate animals. In recognition of the meritorious service of officials, embroidered robes, flying fish clothes, bullfighting clothes and other costumes were specially presented. Python is a dragon with four claws, flying fish is a python with fins, and bullfighting is to add curved horns to the python's head. Jade belt is for official use, so it's best to use it. Therefore, "embroidered robe and jade belt" became the most prominent costume of the big bureaucrats at this time.

Hanfu had a far-reaching influence in the Ming Dynasty, as far away as North Korea in Northeast Asia, Japan, Ryukyu and other vassal countries. In the Qing Dynasty, women's pleated skirts, horse-faced skirts and Taoist robes were preserved together. The Duke's Mansion, the feast of Confucius' Mansion in Qufu, has a collection of Ming Dynasty costumes and costumes, and there are also portraits of people wearing Ming Dynasty costumes and costumes on the upstairs of Manchu Dynasty.

9. Empty the load

Manchu flag dress, rectangular outline, saddle-shaped collar to cover cheeks, no waist up and down, no shirt exposed, two or three fake sleeves on the right side, horseshoe sleeves to cover hands, inlay ornaments, clothes and clothes, a vest or coat. Today, it also has a certain influence on modern clothing. Especially with the development of the times, the cheongsam with beautiful posture is highlighted through the processed curve, which saves the aesthetic side of the whole suit.

There are several different forms of cheongsam or shorts, such as pipa lapels, large lapels and double lapels. Matching skirts or trousers are decorated with printing, embroidery and sewing all over the floor. The front, collar and sleeves are decorated with inlays, piping and embroidery.

In the early Qing Dynasty, Manchu women were similar to men in dress, the only difference was wearing ears and combing their hair, while unmarried women hung braids. Manchu women do not bind their feet or wear skirts. The vest outside is flush with the coat, and there is a small coat inside the gown, which is equivalent to a Chinese-style chest covering for Han women. The clothes outside are also called "Oolong".

Mandarin jacket and cheongsam are typical costumes of Manchu men and women in Qing Dynasty. A jacket is a short coat worn over a robe. The length of the jacket is umbilical, and the sleeves only cover the elbows, mainly for the convenience of riding, so it is called "jacket".

Different from the mandarin jacket of Han nationality in Song and Ming Dynasties, the mandarin jacket of Manchu Dynasty was untidy. When the Manchu people first entered the customs, they forced the Han people to put on their mandarin jackets through slaughter. During the reign of Kangxi and Yongzheng, due to the enslavement policy, it began to be popular in the society, and developed into single clothes, double clothes, gauze clothes, leather clothes, cotton-padded clothes, etc., and became men's plain clothes, which ordinary people could also wear.

Extended data:

The earliest history of clothing in China.

In the late Paleolithic period, people already knew how to sew clothes, and bone needles were also unearthed in the cultural remains of the Neanderthals in Zhoukoudian. By the end of the Neolithic Age, people of different regions and nationalities had different clothing styles.

Take the hairstyle as an example. Dadiwan culture has a short ponytail, Majiayao culture has an inverted braid, Dawenkou culture has a hair band made of pig teeth, and Longshan culture has bone hair. A jade man's head unearthed from the Shenmu Shige site in Longshan culture, Shaanxi Province, has a bun on the top of his head, which may be the reflection of his hair.

Bones have been unearthed in Erlitou-type and Dongxiafeng-type sites equivalent to Erlitou culture in Xia Dynasty, and their shapes are the same as those of similar artifacts in Shang Dynasty. Therefore, knowing that hair is tied in a bun has always been a major feature of ancient Chinese costumes.

Baidu encyclopedia-ancient Chinese costumes