Collect some ancient jewelry names

China ancient jewelry 2007-04-22 0 1:40 Hair ornaments, earrings, neck ornaments, arm ornaments, hand ornaments and other ornaments are collectively called jewelry. The crown, mirror comb and pink in the Han dynasty are all counted as jewelry, while the jewelry in the Song dynasty is limited to the "head face". Its definition is wide or narrow, which is different from jewelry in modern habits.

In primitive society, people have made all kinds of jewelry to decorate their bodies. For example, flat beads made of perforated shells, diamond beads, ostrich eggshells and bird bones were unearthed at Hutouliang site in Yangyuan, Hebei Province, and the inner holes and outer edges of some flat beads were quite smooth, indicating a long time ago. In the Neolithic Age, the variety of jewelry increased. Bones with hair have been unearthed in many places from the upper reaches of the Yellow River to the lower reaches of the Yangtze River, but Yangshao cultural site is the most common, with more than 700 pieces unearthed in Banpo, Xi 'an alone. In Yangshao culture or Longshan culture, pottery cymbals also appeared in large numbers. Because of the human bones unearthed in the cemetery, some kings in Yanzhou, Shandong Province wore more than ten pairs of pottery in their arms. String ornaments made of fine bone beads are also prominent in jewelry. In the Neolithic tomb in Midi County, Gaolan, Gansu Province, there is a human bone with five circles of bone beads around its neck, accounting for about 1000. 1 147 Bone beads unearthed from the girl's tomb in Yuan Jun Temple, Huaxian County, Shaanxi Province. Bone beads 872 1 unearthed from a girl's tomb in Jiangzhai, Lintong, Shaanxi. Most of the beads are decorated on the neck, but some are also decorated on the waist. In the late Neolithic period, in the cultural sites of Dawenkou and Liangzhu in the lower reaches of the Yellow River and the Yangtze River, the number of bone utensils and pottery jewelry decreased, while the number of stone tools and jade jewelry increased. Especially in Liangzhu culture, there are many jade ornaments such as pearls, tubes, pendants and cymbals, and they are well made. Jade string ornaments unearthed from Tomb No.0/6 in Xinyi, Jiangsu Province, consist of 2 petals, 2 crowns, 23 bullet-shaped tubes and 18 drum beads, which are white, smooth and exquisite.

Among the artifacts unearthed in the Central Plains of Shang and Zhou Dynasties, there are not many kinds of jewelry. Jewelry found in Yin Ruins is mainly bone, copper and jade, and the heads are carved with the heads of birds or animals. The Western Zhou Dynasty still follows this tradition. From 1955 to 1957, more than 700 bone fragments were unearthed in Fengxi, Chang 'an, Shaanxi Province. Some bones are carved with overlapping bird shapes, some are inlaid with turquoise, and some are wearing a hat. String ornaments hanging around the neck were popular again in the Eastern Zhou Dynasty. In the early Spring and Autumn Period, the tomb of Prince Guo at Shangcunling 1052, Sanmenxia City, Henan Province was decorated with bloodstone. TombNo's owner 1820 in the same cemetery is a woman. The necklace around her neck consists of 10/bloodstone beads, 1 0 flake stone ornaments,1oval jade ornaments and two small stones. During the Warring States Period, the tomb of Yan State in Beixinbao, Huailai, Hebei Province also had a string of 264 turquoise ornaments around its neck.

Men's jewelry in Han Dynasty was generally only used as accessories. Women not only wear women's clothes, but also use hairpins and clothes. The shape of the hairpin is relatively simple, that is, bending a metal wire into two strands. Women often have more than 10 hairpins on their heads in the stone statues of Dahuting in Yinan, Shandong Province and Mixian County, Henan Province. Easily shaped like a narrow comb, about 1 Chinese ruler. On the bun of tomb Mawangdui 1 in Changsha, there are three long buttons: tortoise shell, horn and bamboo. In addition, women's hair accessories in the Han Dynasty include Jin Sheng, Hua Sheng and San Zi Chai, all of which are embedded in the hair of the forehead. Women in the Han Dynasty still wore earmuffs. At this time, the drum is mostly waist-drum-shaped, with a thick end and a hemispherical protrusion. When wearing, the thin end is inserted into the perforation of the earlobe, and the thick end is left in front of the earlobe. The kneeling wooden figurines unearthed from Chu TombNo. Changtaiguan 1 in Xinyang, Henan Province, have bamboo sticks on their earlobes, indicating that they were worn during the Warring States Period. There were also earrings in the Han dynasty, with holes drilled in the middle and threaded, which were called ears, and the earrings on the ears were called jun ... The unearthed Jun and Er were made of metal, jade and glass.

The most luxurious hair accessory for women in the Southern and Northern Dynasties was walking. "Continued Han Yu Fu Zhi" said that all the empresses in the Han Dynasty wore a step shake, with a "mountain title" made of gold at the bottom; There is "Guizhi Miao, a unique nine flowers" in the book, which has never been seen in the Han Dynasty. We can see from Jin Gu Kaizhi's A Woman's History that the walking scroll is made of two pieces side by side, which are worn before the hair and have many branches on it. The shape of a utensil unearthed from the No.2 tomb of Beipiaofang, Liaoning Province is basically the same as that painted in the Map of Women's History. There are two pairs of gold unearthed in Damaoqi, Wulanchabu League, Inner Mongolia. It's just that the "mountain bit" is made of deer head, while cassia twig is made of deer horn, which has a strong grassland flavor. The gold necklace unearthed here is decorated with various models of small weapons, which is similar to the description of "In Yuankang, women are decorated with five soldiers, and gold and silver hawksbill are axes, cymbals, pigeons and halberds" in Gambao's Golden Ji. Due to the increasingly developed east-west traffic, some jewelry with western colors was unearthed in the Southern or Northern Dynasties. A diamond-encrusted silver ring was unearthed from Tomb 7 of Wang's Cemetery in the Eastern Jin Dynasty in Xiangshan, Nanjing. China didn't produce diamonds at that time. This ring should be imported from the west. A gold ring inlaid with lapis lazuli carved deer patterns was unearthed from the tomb of Li Xizong in the Eastern Wei Dynasty of Zanhuang, Hebei Province. Lapis lazuli is an ancient Afghan specialty, and its deer grain composition is different from that of China, so it should be imported from the west. Similar to the inlay on the ring unearthed from Li Xizong's tomb, the gold necklace unearthed from Li Jingxun's tomb in Panjiacun, Xi also has lapis lazuli engraved with deer patterns. This necklace is mainly composed of 28 golden balls besides buckles and pendants. Each piece is a polyhedral hollow sphere made of large and small gold rings. These gold rings were originally inlaid with pearls, but most of them have fallen off. This kind of golden ball was unearthed in the Eastern Han Dynasty cemetery in Longshenggang, Xianlie Road, Guangzhou, and its shape is similar to that of China, especially the bronze symbol with silver holes staggered unearthed in the tomb of Qi King of the Western Han Dynasty in Linzi, Shandong Province, which is also hollow and more similar to it. Therefore, the gold necklace unearthed from Li's tomb has both external factors and China's inherent factors. In addition, gold hairpin and gold hairpin inlaid with glass beads were unearthed in Li's tomb. The hairpin consists of two parts: flower ornaments and hairpin strands, which are not a whole, and can be regarded as the intermediate type of the transition from Han-Jin double-strand hairpin to Tang Dynasty flower hairpin.

The Tang Dynasty attached great importance to the flower decorations on the top of the hairpin. In the early Tang Dynasty, the waitresses in the stone carvings of Princess Yongtai and Prince Yide had already worn flower-shaped hairpin and Feng Chai, but each wore only one or two. Later, the ornamental design became bigger and bigger, almost as long as the hairpin. There are many kinds of flower hairpin unearthed from the tombs of Xi Jiahui Village and Guangzhou Huanggang in the middle and late Tang Dynasty, such as phoenix, Capricorn, flower and bird, twig wrapped in flowers and so on. It is made by molding, carving and cutting. In the Tang Dynasty, the "flower tree" named by concubines and married women was a larger flower hairpin. There are often two pieces, with the same pattern and opposite directions, and many pieces are inserted symmetrically. Hairpins are double-stranded, and single-stranded hairpins are called hairpins or scratch heads at this time, and flowers are also made at the top. The gold hairpin unearthed from Princess Wu's tomb in the Tang Dynasty in Taizishan, An Lushan, Hubei Province, has several layers of patterns on the top and small flowers cut with gold foil on the edge. In the Tang Dynasty, the number of such hairpin was far less than that of flower hairpin. Comb is a hairdressing tool, and women began to insert it into their hair in the prosperous Tang Dynasty. At first, only a comb was inserted in front of the bun. It will gradually increase in the future, with two combs as a group and inserted up and down. When women dressed up in the late Tang Dynasty, three groups were inserted in front of and on both sides of the bun, and the decorations on the back of the comb were becoming more and more abundant. The gold engraved comb unearthed from the Tang tomb in Sanyuan Road, Yangzhou, Jiangsu Province, has a very fine pattern of opposing the phoenix and opposing the grass. The comb back of Tang Dynasty gold coins unearthed in hejia village, Xi 'an, Shaanxi Province, is made of gold wire and gold particles by pinch welding. A horn comb with a jade back unearthed from the tomb of Tang Shuiqiu in Lin 'an, Zhejiang Province, with flowers and phoenix carved on it.

During the Song, Liao and Song dynasties, women's jewelry generally followed the Tang system, with hairpin and comb as the main jewelry, but the number of hairpin with floral ornaments at the top increased. The gold comb back, dragon, phoenix and gold hairpin unearthed from the tomb of Song Dynasty in Mufu Mountain, Nanjing, and the silver comb and gold hairpin unearthed from the tomb of Ba Niang in Songyi, Pengze, Jiangxi, were all masterpieces of that time. In Northern Liao Dynasty, because of the different hairstyles of women, hairpins and combs are rarely used, while necklaces, earrings and armbands are particularly developed. For example, the necklace unearthed from the tomb of Princess Chen of Liao Dynasty in Naiman Banner, Inner Mongolia, consists of more than 500 pearls strung with silver thread and divided into five strands, with an amber round carving in the middle below. Red and white, bright colors. The princess's earrings are made by connecting four amber-carved dragon boats with six big pearls and 1 1 small pearls with gold wire, and a sculling man is also carved on the dragon boat. Women in Qidan in Liao Dynasty like to wear earrings, which are found in Liao tombs in Zhangjiayingzi, Jianping, Liaoning, Zhangkangshan, Jinzhou, Qianchuang Village, Chaoyang, and Haoqianying, Chayouqian Banner, Inner Mongolia. This is different from the fact that there are almost no earrings unearthed in the tombs of the Tang Dynasty and few earrings unearthed in the tombs of the Song Dynasty. Princess Chen wears two pairs of gold cymbals on each arm. The cymbal is wide in the middle and thin at both ends, and it is bent into an oval shape. One pair is decorated with tangled flowers, with two opposite animal heads at the end, and the other pair is decorated with Shuanglong, with two opposite faucets at the end. Generally speaking, this style still follows the practice of the Tang Dynasty, bending a piece of willow-shaped gold and silver into an armband, and decorating the end of the band with a faucet facing it, which has been imitated by later generations for a long time. During this period, there was also a kind of circular ring, which was unearthed in Shanghai Baoshan Song Tomb, Anhui Wangjiang Jiuchengban Song Tomb and Anhui Anqingyuan Tomb.

Folk jewelry in Ming and Qing dynasties is simple and simple; Noble women's jewelry is complex in shape and design, and the wide application of gem setting, silk laying and green touch makes the jewelry more gorgeous than the previous generation. Feng Chai unearthed from the tomb of King Yiduan in Chengnan, Jiangxi Province, is woven with gold wires of different thicknesses. Although the structure is extremely slim, the phoenix shape is very handsome. Nine gold hair pins unearthed from the tomb of the king of Mingyi Zhuang were woven into a heavy building and a pavilion by laying silk, in which immortals played and danced, surrounded by flowers and grasses, and the craft was very fine. This kind of jewelry continued to develop in the Qing Dynasty. In a female tomb in Xiaoxitian, a western suburb of Beijing, as many as 33 hairpins have been unearthed, including Feng Hairpin, Nianhan Sanyou Hairpin, Everything goes smoothly, Erlong Play Pearl Hairpin, Petal Hairpin, Qilin Hairpin, Duoyun Hairpin and Lianxi Golden Hairpin. Other jewelry in Qing dynasty, such as beaded pearls, hair covers, nail covers, etc. , is a variety of. As for rings, they have existed in all dynasties since the Han and Jin Dynasties, and their styles have not changed much, even in the Qing Dynasty.

In this series of jewelry, I especially appreciate jade jewelry. Jade is a unique work of art in China and an important symbol of ancient civilization in China. Jade is the essence of stone, which gives people a sense of beauty from both texture and color. The old adage "Jade must be cut first, and then become a tool" comes from The Book of Rites, which shows that the processing of jade is not only icing on the cake, but also an artistic creation that makes the texture and color tend to be perfect. Jade articles in China have been manufactured since the early Neolithic Age, with advanced technology, exquisite modeling and decoration, and rich and profound connotations.

In our country, which pays attention to etiquette and advocates morality, ancient jade is a symbol of political status and morality and has strong political attributes. Jade is not only an appliance and ornament for daily production and life, but also a ritual vessel with religious significance. It is the ritual object of offering sacrifices to heaven and earth and communicating with the gods. It is an appendage of mysterious belief, reflecting related ideology, religious belief and funeral customs.

The ancients believed that jade was the essence of mountains and rivers and was born with the aura of heaven and earth. It is a combination of religious, political and moral factors, and its spiritual attribute is the main one. As a representative of cultural value, jade is a symbol of social status and religious culture. It is a symbol of wealth and power. People's worship of jade is not only their love for its processed texture and color, but also their respect and mystery. People give their rights, ideals and prayers to jade carved into a certain shape, hoping that it can convey people's prayers and wishes and make themselves blessed and supported by God. The understanding of jade between modern people and ancient people has many similarities in praying for the blessing of the gods, and it can even be said that it is in the same strain.

In the middle of feudal society in China, large jade articles appeared. There is a big jade pot in Beijing Beihai Park Tuancheng-Dushan Dayuhai, like a big bathtub. It is a sprinkling device for Kublai Khan's banquet in the Yuan Dynasty, which can hold more than 3,000 liters of wine. The jade pot weighs 3.5 tons, with a maximum circumference of 493 cm, a height of 70 cm and a depth of 55 cm. Jade urn is oval, surrounded by Yuntao, mosquito dragon and hippocampus. It has a beautiful shape and is the oldest and largest jade handed down in China. A18th century large-scale jade carving during the Qianlong period of the Qing Dynasty-Dayu Water Control and Yushan, is displayed in the Treasure Hall of the Forbidden City in Beijing. Based on the Song Dynasty painting "Dayu Water Control Map". This jade carving is 2.4 meters high and about l meters wide, which vividly shows the scene of ancient working people fighting floods. According to historical records, this jade is produced in Hotan, Xinjiang, China, and weighs more than 5 tons. It took three years and traveled more than 4,000 kilometers before it was shipped to Beijing. It took many years to carve this rare national treasure.