Woven fabric cutting technology

Before cutting, the layout should be drawn according to the template. "Integrity, rationality and economy" is the basic principle of layout. The main technical requirements in the cutting process are as follows:

(1) Clear the quantity when dragging materials, and pay attention to avoid defects.

(2) Different batches of dyed or sand-washed fabrics should be cut in batches to prevent the same garment from color difference. For a fabric with color difference, it is necessary to carry out color difference layout.

(3) Pay attention to whether the straightness of fabric threads and the direction of clothing threads meet the technological requirements when discharging. Do not lay pile fabric (such as velvet, velvet, corduroy, etc.). ) backward, otherwise it will affect the color depth of the clothing.

(4) For plaid fabrics, when dragging materials, pay attention to the alignment and positioning of each layer of plaid to ensure the consistency and symmetry of plaid in clothing.

(5) Cutting requires accurate cutting and straight and smooth lines. The paving type should not be too thick, and there should be no deviation between the upper and lower layers of the fabric.

(6) cut the edge according to the template alignment mark.

(7) When using conical hole marking, care should be taken not to affect the appearance of clothing. After cutting, it is necessary to count the quantity and check the number of pieces, and bundle them in piles according to the clothing specifications, and attach a ticket label indicating the payment number, location and specifications. Sewing and sewing are the central processes of garment processing. According to styles and technological styles, garment sewing can be divided into machine sewing and manual sewing. In the process of sewing, the assembly line is executed.

Adhesive lining is widely used in garment processing. Its function is to simplify the sewing process, make the clothing quality uniform, prevent deformation and wrinkling, and play a certain role in clothing modeling. Most of them are non-woven fabrics, woven fabrics and knitwear. The use of adhesive lining should be selected according to the fabric and parts of clothing, and the bonding time, temperature and pressure should be accurately grasped to achieve better results.

In the processing of woven clothing, the stitches are arranged in series on the garment piece according to certain rules, forming firm and beautiful stitches. Stitches can be basically classified into the following four types: they are formed by inserting more than two needles and threads and a crochet thread, and sometimes one or two decorative threads are added in front. Elastic stitch is characterized by high strength, good stretchability and smooth stitch, which can also prevent the edge of fabric from falling off in some occasions (such as flat sewing).

In addition to basic sewing, the basic sewing forms also include pleating, patch embroidery and other processing methods according to the requirements of style and technology. The choice of stitch density, stitch density and stitch density should consider the requirements of fabric texture and technology.

Sewing needles can be classified according to "type and quantity" According to the shape, sewing needles can be divided into S-type, J-type, B-type, U-type and Y-type, and different fabrics adopt appropriate needle types.

The thickness of sewing needles used in China is distinguished by numbers. With the increase of numbers, the thickness will become thicker. The size of sewing needles used in garment processing is generally between No.5 and 16, and sewing needles with different thicknesses are used for different garment fabrics.

In principle, the choice of sewing thread should be homogeneous with the clothing fabric and the same color (except decorative design). Suture generally includes silk thread, cotton thread, cotton/polyester thread, polyester thread and so on. When choosing stitches, we should also pay attention to the quality of stitches, such as color fastness, shrinkage, fastness and rental strength.

The stitch density is the density of the pointer foot, which can be judged by the number of stitches exposed within 3 cm of the fabric surface, and can also be expressed by the number of pinholes within 3 cm of the fabric.

Generally speaking, the sewing of clothes should be neat and beautiful, and there should be no asymmetry, distortion, leakage and dislocation. When sewing plaid fabric, we should pay attention to the smooth connection of stitching patterns, and the plaid is symmetrical left and right, as shown in table 1-5 and figure1-kloc-0/4. The stitches should be even and straight, and the arc should be round and smooth; The flat clothes at the tangent of the clothes surface have no wrinkles and small wrinkles; The suture is in good condition, and there is no phenomenon such as broken thread, floating thread and drawing. Important parts such as collar tip shall not be wired. Buttonholes and buttons on clothes are usually machined. According to its shape, buttonholes can be divided into flat buttonholes and eye buttonholes, commonly known as sleeping buttonholes and pigeon buttonholes.

Sleeping holes (as shown in figure 1- 15) are widely used in thin clothing products such as shirts, skirts and trousers. Pigeon eye holes (see figure 1- 16 and figure 1- 17) are mostly used for coats with thick fabrics such as tops and suits. Pay attention to the following points in keyhole: (1) Whether the buttonhole position is correct. (2) Whether the buttonhole size matches the button size and thickness. (3) Whether the buttonhole opening is cut. (4) For elastic (elastic) or very thin fabrics, it is necessary to consider using keyhole holes to reinforce the inner layer. The sewing of buttons should correspond to the position of buttonholes, otherwise the clothes will be deformed and skewed due to inaccurate buttonholes. When buttoning, you should also pay attention to whether the number and strength of buttoning lines are enough to prevent buttons from falling off, and whether the number of buttoning lines on thick fabric clothing is sufficient. People often use "three-point sewing and seven-point ironing" to emphasize that ironing is an important process in garment processing.

Ironing has three main functions:

(1) Remove the wrinkles of the cloth by spraying water and ironing, and fold the seams flat.

(2) After heat setting, the garment looks flat, wrinkled and straight.

(3) Using the ironing technology of "back" and "pull", the stretching degree of fiber and the density and direction of warp and weft knitting of fabric are appropriately changed to shape the three-dimensional modeling of clothing, so as to meet the requirements of human body shape and activity state, and make the clothing achieve the purpose of beautiful appearance and comfortable wearing.

The four basic factors affecting fabric ironing are temperature, humidity, pressure and time. Among them, ironing temperature is the main factor affecting ironing effect. Mastering the ironing temperature of various fabrics is the key to finishing clothes. The ironing temperature is too low to achieve the ironing effect; If the ironing temperature is too high, the clothes will be ironed flat and cause losses.

The ironing temperature of various fibers is also affected by various factors, such as contact time, moving speed, ironing pressure, presence or absence of padding cloth, thickness of padding cloth and presence or absence of moisture.

The following phenomena should be avoided during ironing:

(1) Auroras and scorching on the garment surface caused by too high ironing temperature and too long ironing time.

(2) Tiny wrinkles and wrinkles are left on the surface of clothes.

(3) There are scalded parts. Clothing inspection should run through the whole process of cutting, sewing, keyhole nailing and ironing. Before packaging and warehousing, the finished products should be thoroughly inspected to ensure the product quality.

The main contents of finished product inspection are:

(1) Whether the style is the same as the confirmed sample.

(2) Whether the dimensions and specifications meet the requirements of the process sheet and sample clothes.

(3) Whether the sewing is correct and whether the sewing is neat and flat.

(4) Check whether the plaid of the plaid fabric is correct.

(5) Whether the thread of the fabric is correct, whether there are defects on the fabric and whether there are oil stains.

(6) Whether the same clothing has color difference.

(7) Whether the ironing is good.

(8) Whether the adhesive lining is firm and whether there is glue leakage.

(9) Whether the thread has been trimmed.

(10) Whether the clothing accessories are complete.

(1 1) Whether the size mark, washing mark and trademark on the clothing are consistent with the actual contents of the goods and whether their positions are correct.

(12) Whether the overall shape of the clothing looks good.

(13) Whether the packaging meets the requirements. Clothing packaging can be divided into hanging packaging and box packaging, and box packaging is generally divided into inner packaging and outer packaging.

Inner packaging refers to putting one or more clothes into plastic bags. The model and size of the clothing should be consistent with that indicated on the plastic bag, and the packaging should be flat and beautiful. Some special styles of clothes need special treatment when packaging. For example, wrinkled clothes should be packaged in twisted rolls to maintain their styling style.

The outer packaging is generally packed in cartons, and the size and color are matched according to customer requirements or process orders. Generally, there are four packaging forms: mixed color code, monochrome code, monochrome code and mixed color code. When packing, attention should be paid to the completeness of quantity and the accuracy of color and size matching. The outer box should be marked with container mark, indicating the customer, port of shipment, container number, quantity, origin, etc. , the content is consistent with the actual goods. Controlling fabric quality is an important part of controlling finished product quality. Through the inspection and judgment of incoming fabrics, the genuine rate of clothing can be effectively improved.

Fabric inspection includes appearance quality and internal quality. From the appearance, it mainly checks whether the fabric is damaged, dyed, weaving defects, color difference and so on. The fabric washed by sand should also pay attention to whether there are sand washing defects such as sand marks, dead pleats and splits. Defects that affect the appearance should be marked during inspection and avoided during cutting.

The inherent quality of fabric mainly includes shrinkage, color fastness and gram weight (mm, oz). During inspection and sampling, representative samples of different varieties and colors produced by different manufacturers should be cut and tested to ensure the accuracy of the data.

At the same time, the accessories entering the factory should also be inspected, such as the shrinkage rate of elastic band, the adhesion fastness of adhesive lining and the smoothness of zipper. Accessories that cannot meet the requirements shall not be put into production.