The Wuyi Mountain you don’t know: Wuyi Mountain

When it comes to Wuyi, everyone in the world knows Tianyou Peak and Jiuqu River. However, during holidays, Tianyou Peak and Jiuqu River are crowded with tourists. When they climb to Wuyi, they are not relaxed and happy, but Stand in line and watch people. Can we say that Wuyi Mountain is "saturated"? That's also dead wrong.

Beyond the main scenic area, the scenery of Wuyi is not diminished at all, but because it is "raised in a boudoir", it has gained a bit of the true meaning of peaceful mountains and tranquil waters.

The orchid canyon with winding paths, high waterfalls and deep pools in Daanyuan, the tea-scented forest farm town in Wuyiyuan,

The drizzle is falling at Zhu Xi’s ancestral home outside Wufu Town Wetting the white walls, the yellow hair hanging down in the courtyard of the old house in Xiamei Village is happy...

Da Wuyi, bypassing the main scenic spot, is also full of scenery.

The source of Da'an: Deep Valley Orchid

The name "Da'an" reflects the local residents' desire for peace. Nowadays, it has beautiful mountains and clear waters, singing birds and fragrant flowers. Historically, it was a transportation hub for entering and leaving Fujian Province. There is a village in Daanyuan - Da'an Village. Historically, it was the first pass guarding the border between Fujian and Jiangxi, also known as "Daguan". It is the most famous among the more than ten passes in Wuyi Mountain area in northern Fujian. From the late Ming and early Qing dynasties to the warlords' melee and then to the turmoil of the Liberation War, as a battleground for military strategists, most of the strong men living in the local area were captured and sent to the army, leaving the old, weak, women and children of the family living in poverty. Therefore, the local people named the village Da'an Village and the canyon Daanyuan. The word "an" in the name contains the principle that "a person with small peace is called a family, and a person with national security is called a great peace."

Daanyuan is a deep canyon in the shape of a "V". A trail built along the mountain runs through the entire canyon. The sign on the tree at the entrance reads the warning "Walking without looking at the scenery, and looking at the scenery without walking". The implication is that after seeing the scenery here, you forget about the rugged road. style.

Suddenly entering the canyon of Daanyuan, a chill hit me. The temperature in the valley was three or four degrees lower than outside. The air was humid, and the air I breathed was cool and refreshing. Due to the unique landform of the canyon, a unique microclimate is formed. Generally, when there is drizzle in the canyon, the sun is shining brightly outside the canyon. While walking on the trail, red-billed gulls and giant cuckoos fly out from time to time in the forest overhead. There are many orchids growing on the mountains beside the trail. Maybe the climate in the canyon is suitable for the growth of picky orchids, such as cold orchid, Jianlan, Clivia and Suxinlan. There are many varieties to count, and they always make people stop and squat down to watch them up close. The valley is exceptionally quiet, with only the gurgling sound of water underfoot, giving it an artistic conception of "the noisy cicada forest is more tranquil, and the bird-singing mountain is even more secluded".

There is a gravel path submerged in the forest in the scenic area. Although it is inconspicuous, it is the ancient road of the "Ten Thousand Miles Shanxi Merchants Tea Road". Through this road, the caravans and convoys of Shanxi merchants from the south of Shanxi transported Wuyi Mountain tea out of Fujian by carrying horses on their shoulders, and then transported the rock tea from Fujian to the northernmost Sino-Russian border by land. Eurasian land bridge to Europe.

It was the rainy season in Wuyi Mountain when we came, and the road was a bit slippery. However, the waterfalls all over the canyons had abundant water during the rainy season. When we turned a corner, we could hear the rumbling sound of water in the distance. The reason why the canyon of Daanyuan was discovered back then was also because of the waterfall. A person who once led a team to explore the valley said, "I came here six or seven years ago to investigate. I heard the sound of water, so I went down to look. I was tied down with a rope. I was very scared. Only when I saw the waterfall did I feel that it was beautiful inside. The coolness, rocks, and waterfalls, It's like a small world." In front of the "Huanggang Mountain" waterfall, the huge water rushed out of a deep pool. The water in the pool was green. The tour guide said the pool was six or seven meters deep. At this time, I saw a lone backpacker walking down the canyon plank road to the deep pool under the waterfall. He sat cross-legged on the edge of the pool. In front of him was the waterfall that fell thousands of feet like a white dragon. The scene was like a picture. Ink painting.

The canyon in Daanyuan is not long, and it only takes an hour to complete it if you walk briskly. In addition to sightseeing, Daanyuan also has some local game worth tasting.

There are some farmhouse restaurants scattered near the entrance of the Grand Canyon, offering a specialty in the canyon - stone scales. The farmers explain that this is a kind of "frog" in the stone, which grows in the mountains of northern Fujian. It has coolness, nourishment and five elements. Bu Shen only exists in places like Daanyuan where there are mountains, water and rocks. In addition to the high price (180 yuan per catty), you have to make a reservation with the farmer in advance before you can eat it.

Specially recommended

The best place to play in the water? Daanyuan has strong currents and is not suitable for playing in the water. Of course, if you want to play in the water, there is a good place to go. After exiting from the gate of Daanyuan and continuing along the country road for ten minutes, there is a flat water surface called "Tai Ping Yang". It is a man-made barrier lake specially prepared for tourists who come to Daanyuan to play in the water. People who like to play in the water and have fun gather here. This is the same place as Da'an Source Water. The water quality is clear, and there are lifeguards patrolling the shore. There are farmhouses and barbecue gardens on the shore. Spending money here, playing in the water is 30 yuan per person, and there are valley cabins for rent.

Wuyishan Food Purple Sweet Potato Cake: Not sweet or greasy, made from locally grown purple sweet potato. The taste is similar to pumpkin cake and very delicious. Fried okra: A common dish on the dining table of southern Fujianese. When okra first came on the market, it cost 11 yuan per catty. In September, it dropped to three or four yuan per catty.

Farmers near the gate of Huanggang Mountain Grand Canyon provide their own abundant green ingredients, among which Tujia stewed eggs (with mushrooms added) and wild vegetables (wild sesame) are local specialties.

The average consumption, if you don’t eat expensive things such as stone scales, but eat some local chicken and duck, the average consumption is about 35 yuan per person.

Eating in the Wuyi Mountain Scenic Area or in the city is not cheap, and some places are even more expensive than in Xiamen. Because the mountains are humid, local dishes tend to be salty and spicy.

TIPS

Daanyuan is located in Da'an Village, Yangzhuang Township, in the north of Wuyishan City, 38 kilometers away from Wuyishan City, about a 40-50 minute drive. You can charter a car at Wuyishan Airport or join a group with a local travel agency. There is a tour bus that goes directly to the main gate of Daanyuan. The chartered car costs 300 yuan per day. The best time to visit Daanyuan Scenic Area is one day, and return to Wuyishan Resort in the evening. Next summer, a 2.5-kilometer rafting trip may be added, which will last about 80 minutes. May to November is the peak season in Wuyi Mountain, and rooms are tight. It is recommended to book a hotel in Wuyi Mountain Resort in advance.

Wuyiyuan: Forest Farm Town

Wuyiyuan is located in the upper reaches of Jiuqu River, the main scenic spot of Wuyi Mountain, 20 kilometers away from Wuyishan Airport. It stretches from Lion Peak Lotus Valley in the west to Northeast Source Creek in the east. The lotus stream of Yangmei Spring and Yangmei Spring passes through the entire valley. There is a small town in Wuyiyuan - the former headquarters of Sixin Forestry Farm, now called "Forest Family". This location is really the biggest surprise for me after arriving in Wuyiyuan.

The town is located in the center of the scenic spot, but it is as peaceful and clean as a paradise. Different from the traditional ancient town in our impression, this town has well-preserved Cultural Revolution buildings. The first thing you see when you enter the town is not the ancestral temple, but a statue of Chairman Mao waving forward. Behind the statue is a Soviet-style auditorium. This scenery is rarely seen in ordinary villages, and it also makes the place full of revolutionary atmosphere.

The layout of the Cultural Revolution is still preserved in the auditorium. The wooden folding seats that were only seen in the 1950s and 1960s, the posters of model operas on the walls, and all the furnishings and slogans in the auditorium still convey the spirit of the revolutionary era. Although the smell is a bit mottled, it has a time-traveling charm after experiencing wind and rain. Today, this auditorium can still play old film movies. When the gatekeeper opened the door of the auditorium for us, he told us that the projector in the screening room upstairs is still running. Some copies of the films from that year are still there. If you are lucky, you can play them in this auditorium. Watch a 16mm old film model play in the old theater that can accommodate thousands of people, and relive the entertainment life of the town in its heyday.

Standing on the main street of the town, with the statue of Chairman Mao behind him staring at the valley in front of him, standing under the statue seems to transcend time and space. The hundred-meter-long small street is covered with moss, and the marks of the past glory on both sides are deeply imprinted on the mottled walls of the Russian-style buildings. The town was neatly maintained, and not a single passerby was seen in the town. It was noon, and apart from the chirping of birds in the woods, the place still seemed to be sleeping.

After the reform and opening up, the Wuyi Mountain area began to close the mountains for afforestation, and this forest farm town hidden in the Wuyi Mountain gradually declined. After the young people in the town gave up their job of cutting trees, they left their hometowns and flocked to the big cities to look for opportunities. Today, only a dozen elderly families from the forest ranger squadron are left living here. We met an 84-year-old Mr. Ye and his wife. They came to Wuyishan from Longquan, Zhejiang in 1958 and worked in Sixin Forest Farm for more than 40 years. The old man was very excited about the visit of outsiders. There is always a hint of shyness and simplicity in their smiles when facing strangers.

Although the town is small, it is well-equipped, and the infrastructure is still the same as in the past: Sixin Barber Shop, Sixin Guesthouse, Sixin Supply and Marketing Cooperative, Sixin Canteen, Sixin Canteen... When we arrived... , many facilities have not yet started operating, and only the doors and windows of the Sixin Canteen are open. The large cafeteria provides some home-cooked dishes with a rustic flavor, native chickens raised by farmers in the forest farm, wild mushrooms picked on the hillsides next to the town, and a kind of plum wine brewed by local residents. Sixin Guest House has been transformed into a very gorgeous club, and an open space next to the guest house has also become an outdoor cafe with a good view... "Forest House" will not be fully accessible to tourists until next year. The developers want to turn this world into a The town has been transformed into wild luxury hotels and villas, and is a land and island disappearing into the jungle.

Most of the time, we walked through the alleys with branches on the walls, looking around curiously. We were very excited when we accidentally discovered a fish pond and a quiet hut. Drinking a cup of Dahongpao made by the forest farm at the outdoor cafe, I really want to live here and can't bear to leave.

Specially recommended

90-minute ultra-long rafting? The upper station of Wuyiyuan rafting is 10 minutes away from the "Forest Man's Home". Tourists can take the Drift down the Lianhua River in a specially designed circular boat. The whole journey takes 90 minutes. During this rafting trip, all the scenery of the Lianhua River Valley is included. You can not only enjoy the scenery, but also save the fatigue of climbing mountains and wading. As a tourist, getting wet is inevitable, and this is the only price you pay during rafting.

Thrilling ziplines? There are two very exciting ziplines in Wuyiyuan. One is 261 meters long and has a drop of 16 meters. The total length of the second rope is 349 meters, with a drop of 35 meters. No matter which cableway you go on, people will have the urge to shout when rushing down. If you want to experience the excitement and speed, and enjoy the scenery of Lotus Creek from high altitude, these two ziplines are definitely not to be missed.

TIPS

Start from Wuyishan Airport and drive along S303 for 13.3 kilometers. When you reach Dongshanpu about 1,600 meters, turn slightly left and enter S205. Drive along S205 for 8.3 kilometers and pass the Natural Botanical Garden. After about 1550 meters, turn right slightly, drive 234 meters, turn left into Dutou Street, drive along Dutou Street for 193 meters, turn right into Qiyun Avenue, drive along Qiyun Avenue for 0.7 kilometers, and turn right after passing the gas station for about 50 meters. , drive 20.8 kilometers and arrive at Wuyiyuan Scenic Area.

Tickets for the scenic spot can be purchased at Building AI#1, Jinpanting, opposite the airport.

Fare: The total ticket price of the scenic spot is 120 yuan, and the ticket price of the observation car is 20 yuan.

Xiamei and Wu Fu: Tea merchants and the past of great Confucians

Xiamei ancient town began in the Sui and Tang Dynasties, flourished in the Song Dynasty, and flourished in the Ming and Qing Dynasties. There are 30 ancient residential buildings from the Qing Dynasty. An ancient town with many ancient houses and "three sculptures" dotted all over the streets is actually so clean and leisurely. I remember that when people discovered Xidi, it took only a few years for the small ink village to become gaudy and unbearable, but Xiamei Ancient Town is like the mellow wine hidden deep in the alleys. It has remained original after many years.

Xiamei Ancient Town is located in the east of Wuyishan City, 8 kilometers away from Wuyishan Scenic Area and 6 kilometers away from Wuyishan City. There is a small river called "Meixi" next to the village. This small stream was once the waterway that Xiamei relied on for survival and the lifeblood of Xiamei. The highway was only built into Xiamei Ancient Town in 1958. Dangxi River, which flows into Meixi River, passes through the village and divides Xiamei Village into north and south parts.

The more than 900-meter-long Dangxi River is purely an artificial "canal". During the Kangxi period, Dangxi River was planned and built for the tea market and nine ports were set up along the river. On both sides of the river, there are two streets, the north and the south. There are railings on the street facing the river, where you can sit or lean. There are many small stone bridges on the river, making transportation convenient. County annals record that during the Kangxi period, there were more than 300 bamboo rafts coming and going at the Wuyi Tea Market during the peak season.

I walked into the town and spent a long time watching the old people playing four-color cards in the Zhenguo Temple, which is as big as a courtyard. The women who came to the temple muttered something while rubbing paper rolls as thick as matches. An old woman said, this is "Jing", the burning scripture. Upon closer inspection, there is indeed a name attached to a bundle of "Sutras", which is similar to a wish such as "Save the Suffering". It is a wish that must be burned before it can be made.

If Dangxi is the blood of Xiamei, then the various buildings and houses on both sides of Dangxi are the bones of Xiamei. Some of the buildings have become dilapidated after weathering the storm. When the road was being built in 1958, the Qiqiao Zushi Bridge was demolished and turned into an asphalt road by the road across the Dang River. However, most of the ancestral halls and residences that have survived are still relatively intact, such as the Zou family's ancestral hall, the Fang family's military hall, the hermit's residence and numerous "big man's houses". Among them, the Zou family's "big man's house" is the most complete. It is grand, beautifully carved and well-preserved. You can still see the descendants of the Zou family living in the deep courtyard of the old house.

Wufu, another ancient town also in Wuyi Mountain, is highly worshiped because of Zhu Xi, a famous scholar. Speaking of Zhu Xi, almost everyone knows that in the history of traditional Chinese thought, education and etiquette, there is a saying that Confucius was put forward and Zhu Xi was put behind him. In his more than 70 years of life, Master Zhu spent most of his life on the land of northern Fujian.

Wufu belonged to Chong'an County, Jianning Prefecture during the Song Dynasty, and is now part of Wuyishan City. In March of the thirteenth year of Shaoxing, Zhu Xi followed his father's death and moved to Wufu Town. He worshiped Liu Ziyu as his adoptive father and studied under Mr. Liu Ziyi, Liu Mianzhi and Hu Xiansan. It was in Wufu Town that Zhu Xi completed early works such as "The Analects of Confucius", "Xunmeng Quatrains", "Chronology of Zengzi", "Family Rites", "Analects of Confucius", and "Collected Poems".

Zhu Xi’s former residence, Ziyang Tower, is located beside the lotus pond outside Wufu Town. It is also known as Ziyang Study Room. It was built in the 14th year of Shaoxing in the Southern Song Dynasty (1144). Zhu Xi settled here since he was 15 years old. , until he moved to Jianyang in his later years, he lived here on and off for nearly 50 years. Ziyang Tower is located at the foot of Pingshan Mountain and beside the Tanxi River. There is a thousand-year-old camphor tree in the open space at the entrance of the academy. A forest of bamboos has been built around the academy. In front of the house is a half-acre square pond filled with lotus flowers. However, it is not the season and the lotus flowers have faded. , otherwise the scenery is unique. Legend has it that Zhu Xi's poem "Reflections on Reading" was written by Zhu Xi in his own hand after he was inspired when he was studying hard by the pond: "As soon as the half-acre square pond is opened, the skylight and cloud shadows are lingering. Ask where the canal is. If you are clear like this, you will have living water from a source." The architectural style of Ziyang Tower is quite regular, elegant and unique, with one couplet and two entrances. Moving forward is Zhu Xi's study and bedroom. Zhu Xi, not forgetting his father, named the dormitory "Weizhai" and the study "Huitang" after his father's name. There is a plaque hanging in the middle hall saying: Ziyang Shutang, which means not forgetting his ancestral home of Ziyang in Wuyuan, Huizhou (now part of Jiangxi).

Walking on the small streets in Wufu Town, I felt a light and elegant feeling, it was drizzling, the wet stone pavement, the backs of people walking alone with umbrellas in the depths of the alleys... Walking in Zhuzi Lane On the quiet cobblestone road, I imagined Zhu Xi frowning and thinking when he was studying. I also felt that my heart was suddenly enlightened, and I seemed to have some enlightenment. No wonder some people say: They come to Wufu Town not to visit the mountains and rivers, but to start a journey of spiritual enlightenment based on the footsteps of the old master.

Specially recommended

Minyue Royal City is located 21 kilometers away from the Wuyi Mountain Scenic Area, close to Nanwu Road, covering an area of ??480,000 square meters, with four city gates, and three more. It's Minato. The site consists of three groups of hills running east-west and the central area - Gaohuping Wangdian area. The city site spans three continuous hills, and the city walls are built according to the undulating hills. Among the ruins within the city wall, there are rows of high platforms and ravines. Although the palaces, towers, and princes' mansions were all destroyed more than 2,000 years ago, their basic outlines still vaguely exist.

In 206 BC, the Qin Dynasty was destroyed and the Chu-Han War broke out. Wu Zhu, the leader of the Minyue tribe, went north to the Central Plains and helped Liu Bang defeat Xiang Yu and contributed to the establishment of the Han Dynasty. In 202 BC, because Wu Zhu helped Liu Bang defeat Xiang Yu, the central government granted Wu Zhu the title of King of Minyue and ruled over the central Fujian and Xianyou areas. Also in the same year, Wuzhu began to build the Minyue King's City in the city and village.

The villages near the royal city are also related to the Yue King Gou Jian during the Warring States Period. In 494 BC, Wu and Yue fought a decisive battle in Fujiao (today's Wuxing County). The Yue army was defeated. Gou Jian led 3,000 remaining troops to retreat. , rammed earth into a wall, and stationed troops to defend it. King Wu Fu Chai led a purported 100,000 troops to pursue the Vietnamese army and surrounded the city and mountains. It was only after the city was broken that the later practice of lying on the fire and tasting courage came into being. For thousands of years, countless poets and poets have visited Gou Jian's remains, thought about the ancient times, and wrote a large number of nostalgic poems about Chengshan. "Chengshan Nostalgia" is therefore known as one of the "Eight Scenic Spots of Xianghu Lake" in the old days.

TIPS

Xiamei Village: Located in the east of Wuyishan City, 8 kilometers away from Wuyishan Scenic Area and 6 kilometers away from Wuyishan City. From Wuyishan City, take a minibus or bus directly to Xiamei; Buses from Wuyishan Resort to Xiamei run every 5 minutes.

Wufu Town: Located in the southeast of Wuyishan City, at the intersection of Pucheng, Jianyang and Wuyishan counties (cities), 51 kilometers away from the urban area, generally from Wuyishan Resort or Wuyishan City Transfer to the car. There are two bus stops from Wuyishan city to Wufu Town: one is at Wuyishan East Bus Station in Xiwailou, Chengdong, with regular buses going there every day; the second is at Wuyishan Bus Station next to Wujiu Road Long-distance Bus Station A short-distance bus station. The buses at this station are agricultural vehicles. You can also hire a car to go to Wufu Town in the resort area.

Minyue Royal City: The ticket price is 60 yuan. When you enter the scenic spot, you will receive a wooden barrel. Although the scenic spot is in ruins, there is an ancient well behind the main hall. The spring water has lasted for thousands of years and is sweet and delicious.