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Cold knowledge about the history of dumpling feast.
Jiaozi is a famous food with a long history in northern China. As early as 2000 years ago in the Western Han Dynasty, jiaozi was popular in Chang 'an (now Xi), the capital. But it was commonly known as jiaozi at that time, and it was renamed "Crescent Moon Wonton" in the Northern and Southern Dynasties. During the Three Kingdoms period, there were records about wonton in the book Guangya written by wei ren Zhang Yi. Yan Zitui of the Northern Qi Dynasty also wrote a book saying: "Today, wonton is shaped like a crescent moon, and it is delicious in the world." The crescent moon is now in the shape of jiaozi. In the Tang Dynasty, jiaozi became more popular and called it "flat food". Archaeologists in China found jiaozi in a bowl in the Tang Dynasty tomb in Turpan, Xinjiang, just like jiaozi now. In Song Dynasty, it was called "Jiao Jiao". In the Ming Dynasty, Liu Ruoyu's Collection of Fires in the Imperial Palace recorded the situation of eating jiaozi in the New Year, saying, "From the fifth watch, I will drink pepper and cypress wine, eat snacks and eat plain food immediately. Or it contains a secret money bag, and the person who gets it will be blessed for one year. " There is a similar record in Yanjing Years of Qing Dynasty. It was only in the Ming and Qing Dynasties that it was renamed as "jiaozi", which has continued to this day.
Speaking of the birth of dumpling feast, there was a rather difficult experience. Xi 'an Dumpling Banquet Hotel (formerly Jiefang Road Dumpling House) is located in the northern section of Jiefang Road in Xi 'an, with a history of nearly 50 years. Their jiaozi has always been famous, beautifully carved, shaped like an ingot, soft and delicious, which often makes diners forget the taste after a long separation, and the business is quite prosperous.
In the early 1980s, tourism in Xi suddenly warmed up. The staff of Jiefang Road Dumpling House looked at the endless stream of Chinese and foreign tourists and suddenly thought, "We don't have seafood in Shaanxi, but we have jiaozi and jiaozi, and we can go to by going up one flight of stairs.". In order to adapt to the development of tourism and meet the requirements of the masses, the store began to develop dumpling banquets from 1984. They sent famous chefs to Beijing, Tianjin, Shanghai, Hangzhou, Shenyang, Qingdao and other big cities in the north and south, and earnestly studied the styles, characteristics, production skills and tastes of people all over jiaozi. I also went deep into some cities and counties in the province to learn about the practices of folk jiaozi. Among them, just to learn a kind of lilac jiaozi, Guangguo Town went three times. In addition, the production technology of jiaozi in ancient Tang and Song Dynasties was also studied. Yang Yuhuan, the imperial concubine of Emperor Xuanzong of the Tang Dynasty, wanted to eat a stuffed food one day, which should be steamed. The clever cook knew that she liked chicken wings, so she made steamed dumplings with them. Yang Guifei was very happy to eat it, so "Guifei Steamed Dumplings" became a palace delicacy and was handed down. Empress Dowager Cixi fled to xi 'an in Qing Dynasty, and wanted to eat a kind of jiaozi, so she had to make it face to face. The chefs wrapped the chicken breast into a delicate pearl jiaozi, and the hot pot contained chicken soup, which was served to the Empress Dowager and cooked with it. This kind of jiaozi was later called "Empress Dowager Hotpot".
After repeated experiments and hundreds of trial-productions, a jiaozi feast with fragrance, taste, refreshing shape and special taste was finally developed. At that time, dumplings were held in the south and the north at the same time. In recent days, I have come to join in the fun and frequently invited workers from dumpling houses to perform in Japan. An influential newspaper in China, Yomiuri Shimbun, published a photo of a feast in jiaozi with the title "China State Secret".
From the banquet in the Great Hall of the People to the food festival in Taipei, thousands of jiaozi in Qian Qian, shaped like fruits, flowers, animals and mascots, have solved the troubles of countless people, like dewdrops falling during the drought, but at the same time they have also suffered employees, so that some female employees are afraid when listening to performances abroad. Why? The customers are so enthusiastic that the employees can't keep their fingers straight all night!
Xi 'an's dumpling feast made many foreigners have a perceptual knowledge when eating large pieces. According to word of mouth, more and more Chinese and foreign tourists come to Xi 'an to taste the jiaozi feast, so Jiefang Road jiaozi and Dechang jiaozi, one at the railway station and the other at the Bell and Drum Tower Square, guard the main points of the ancient city just like ancient red-faced generals. The difference is that what they are holding is not a dragon crescent moon blade, but a delicious dumpling feast.
Today, there are hundreds of jiaozi in jiaozi, Xi 'an. Divided into hundred flowers banquet, peony banquet, dragon and phoenix banquet, palace banquet, eight treasures banquet and so on. Jiefang Road Dumpling House is therefore famous all over the world. In recent years, it has received an average of more than four or five thousand customers at home and abroad every day. Defachang Dumpling House, located on the edge of Xi 'an Bell Tower, has a history of more than half a century. In the literary world, it has long been known as the "dumpling feast for friends and relatives, which has long been remembered as Chang 'an Dehua Chang", and has formed a dumpling feast with its own characteristics and reputation in all directions. There are also some restaurants and hotels that also operate dumpling banquets, and some even put up the signboard of "Authentic Dumpling Banquet". Dumpling feast has become a must in Xi 'an's famous food, and some people say it is also a must in China. Some people say that it is not true to go to Xi 'an without seeing the Terracotta Warriors and Horses of Qin Shihuang, and it is not true to eat jiaozi.
Breakthrough of Xi 'an Dumpling Banquet
First, it broke the tradition of using only pigs, cattle, mutton and vegetables as stuffing. Chicken, duck, fish, eggs, seafood, delicacies, fresh vegetables, dried vegetables, fruits and so on, all delicious and nutritious materials can be used as fillings.
Second, it broke the tradition of cooking raw hides with stuffing, with more raw stuffing and more cooked stuffing; Stuffing should not only be seasoned, but also boiled, fried, fried, exploded, fried and slippery. Dumplings are boiled and often steamed, fried, roasted and fried.
Third, it broke the tradition of pure salty and fresh taste, and added a variety of ambiguous types such as sour, sweet, hemp, spicy, fishy and strange taste.
Fourth, it broke the tradition of single crescent-shaped and angular shape, and integrated cooking technology with plastic arts to produce various beautiful and realistic shapes such as flowers, plants, fish and insects.
5. Breaking the tradition of eating jiaozi and simply eating jiaozi, giving jiaozi as the main food, supplemented by cold dishes, hot dishes and drinks, and giving jiaozi different beautiful names for different raw materials, shapes, colors and tastes, greatly enhancing the cultural color and festive atmosphere of the banquet.
Jiaozi feast special food
The types of dumpling stuffing are expanded to include those that fly in the sky, those that run on the ground, those that swim in the water and those that grow on the mountains. Its cooking method adopts almost all the cooking techniques in China. It can be said that after biting a jiaozi, people's good expectations for China cuisine have all come true, so it is no wonder that a guest left a message that "a feast in jiaozi will eat all the fresh food in the world".
When you taste jiaozi's feast, you can always leave a beautiful and deep impression. This is because the appearance is beautiful, the taste is delicious, the connotation is rich and interesting. Many colors are based on folklore or historical allusions. For example, the "eight-treasure steamed dumplings" takes a passage from the story of "playing gold", saying that Guo Ziyi once wrapped jiaozi with eight flavors, such as sea cucumber, to celebrate the end of this matter. "Baochuan Steamed Dumplings" is filled with mustard and pork, which is based on the legend that Wang Baochuan dug mustard in the south of Chang 'an. Steamed Dumplings with Black Rice is based on the legend that Zhang Qian dreamed of Wen Qu and found that black rice was sent to the Western Regions. Many jiaozi are exquisite handicrafts. Some are like butterflies, some like penguins, some like green leaves, some like goldfish, flying, clouds and pearls. The names are also very poetic: butterflies flying, fish jumping in the dragon gate, oolong lying in the snow, Longxing wave, green king rabbit, charcoal in the snow, bon voyage, and so on. They are all pleasing to the eye, making people want to miss their birthdays, but they are reluctant to part with them. After tasting dozens of jiaozi dishes, whether in Jiefang Road Dumpling House or Dehuachang Dumpling House, you can enjoy a wonderful form, that is, jiaozi, a pearl hotpot.
When people used cups and chopsticks alternately, suddenly the lights went out. At this moment, a big copper chafing dish engraved with the pattern of Yunlong Cao Rui was ignited in the middle of the table. The blue flame suddenly made everyone feel back to ancient times. Next, jiaozi, as small as a pearl, was put in a small bowl in front of people. From 1 to 10, even every jiaozi has a saying of auspiciousness and beauty. First, smooth sailing; Second, double happiness; Three, three, six, nine, go up; Get rich in the fourth and fourth seasons; Five or five children were admitted to the department; Six, six, six; Seven, seven stars shine high ... let every guest break up happily.
At present, Jiaozi's views on Pearl Hot Pot are divided into two camps: "Tang Theory" and "Qing Theory" by Ann gourmets and some government officials who are good at cooking. The former verified that this pearl hot pot in jiaozi was invented by Yang Guifei. The latter asserted that it was a tribute from the Empress Dowager 1900 who took refuge in Xi 'an. So far, the two factions have been arguing endlessly, and the experts' arguments have not been resolved, but the business of the two dumplings is booming. Like many things in Xi 'an, because Xi 'an has a long history, many things really don't understand at the moment, but the dumpling feast in Xi 'an has become a special food that tourists must taste after arriving in Xi 'an.
Types of jiaozi at Dumpling Banquet
boiled dumpling
Crystal jiaozi; Champion jiaozi; Light jiaozi; Sea Intestine jiaozi; Crab yellow jiaozi; JD.COM vegetarian jiaozi; Jiaozi stuffed with pork lotus root; Wenjiang dumplings; Jiang Mao jiaozi; Hot and sour jiaozi; Huasu jiaozi; Chicken soup jiaozi; Shrimp, mushrooms and pickled mustard tuber jiaozi; Sanxian tangyuan; Yuanyang jiaozi; Bai jizhen; Shrimp dumplings; Egg shell jiaozi; Cabbage and oyster jiaozi; Shrimp, egg, leek, jiaozi.
Steamed dumplings (meat stuffing and vegetable stuffing)
Tangyuan steamed dumplings; Steamed beef dumplings; Steamed dumplings with stuffing; Cut stuffed steamed dumplings; Steamed dumplings with snow bamboo shoots; Yipin steamed dumplings (salty stuffing); Mu Ping steamed dumplings; Xi' an steamed dumplings; Steamed dumplings in round cages; Mutton steamed dumplings; Steamed dumplings with stuffing; Three fresh steamed dumplings; Steamed dumplings with dried vegetables; Yipin steamed dumplings (plain stuffing); Jiangcheng steamed dumplings; Hangzhou steamed dumplings; Steamed pork dumplings; Steamed dumplings with hot soup noodles; Steamed dumplings with stuffing; Steamed dumplings with ham; Sanding steamed dumplings; Yipin steamed dumplings (sweet stuffing); Huaiyang steamed dumplings.
fried dumpling
Jingwei fried dumpling; Chicken fried dumplings; Fried dumplings with curry; Fried dumplings with fritters; Egg pot stickers; Nanwei decoction; Shrimp and egg jiaozi; Assorted pot stickers; Tianjin fried dumpling; Qiu Er fried dumpling; Pork and cabbage pot stickers; Pork, egg and leek pot stickers; Beef and green pepper pot stickers; Shrimp tofu pot stickers; Chicken sauce pot stickers; Baoding fried dumpling; Vegetarian pot stickers; Fried dumpling with shrimp skin and leek; Beef and cabbage pot stickers; Mutton and green onion pot stickers; Henan fried dumpling; Fresh meat pot stickers; Pork and eggplant pot stickers; Muslim beef pot stickers; Mutton and wax gourd fried dumpling.
fried dumpling
Fried meat jiaozi; Crispy jiaozi; Fried dumplings; Crispy onion jiaozi; Fried crispy jiaozi; Taiji crisp jiaozi; Salty and crisp jiaozi; Crispy snow egg dumplings; Mutton fried dumplings; Fried dumplings with hot soup noodles; Potato fried dumplings; Yuanbao fried dumplings; Guangdong fried dumplings; Fried dumplings with taro; Fried dumplings with taro; Fried dumplings with fried stuffing; Multi-flavored fried dumplings; Fried beef dumplings; Fried dumplings with horseshoes; Fried dumplings with rice noodles.
Baked Crispy jiaozi
Coffee jiaozi; Zhang Chaya jiaozi; Curry jiaozi; Crispy coconut dumplings; Roasted jiaozi with Mandarin Duck; Su Su jiaozi; Fresh meat crispy jiaozi; Fruit crispy jiaozi; Beijing pancake crisp jiaozi; Sweet-scented osmanthus crispy jiaozi; Curry crispy jiaozi; Assorted crisp dumplings; Crispy jiaozi stuffed with bean paste; Wuren Crispy jiaozi; Jujube paste dumplings; Zhenjiang crisp dumplings; Braised pork crispy jiaozi; Jujube paste crisp jiaozi; Double-flavored crispy jiaozi; Crispy red bean paste jiaozi.
Jiaozi Feast with Different Flavors
Dumpling banquet is a kind of banquet mainly in jiaozi. Generally, there are 100 kinds of fillings. According to the number of people eating, if there are seven people at a table, only seven jiaozi will be served for each dish, and jiaozi with a different filling will be served after one dish, and jiaozi with the same filling will never be served for a meal until it is not eaten. The following are different dumpling feasts.
1, Erlong Play Pearl Banquet
Its main cage consists of many traditional jiaozi Erlong playing beads in China, including 24 kinds of artistic jiaozi, such as steamed dumplings with shrimp balls, jade dragons leaving the palace, dragon waves and butterflies flying. All fillings are mainly fish and shrimp, highlighting seafood.
2. Golden Dragon Welcome Banquet
It is an excellent banquet for welcoming guests and entertaining relatives and friends. It consists of several jiaozi golden dragons flying patterns, and 22 kinds of artistic jiaozi, such as carp jumping on the dragon gate, oolong lying in the snow, grinding colored moss, gold needles and silver bars and barbecued tremella.
3. Yuanyang banquet
This is a feast mainly composed of mandarin ducks playing in water and steamed dumplings. It includes 22 kinds of artistic jiaozi, such as butterfly welcoming the spring, jade dragon leaving the palace, phoenix returning to the nest, Yipin jiaozi, Sixi jiaozi and Yuanbao steamed dumplings. This is a banquet for a festive wedding reception.
4. Seafood feast
Jiaozi feast with seafood stuffing, 18 kinds of art jiaozi.
5. Chicken and Duck Banquet
A feast made of chicken and duck stuffing. There are 18 art dumplings, which are rich and unique in taste.
6, the imperial concubine banquet
It is a dumpling feast based on the "Twenty-four Odd Wonton" in Wei Juyuan's cookbook in Tang Dynasty. There are mainly 22 kinds of artistic jiaozi, such as Guifei Chicken jiaozi, Yulong Gong Chu jiaozi, Guifei Red Crispy jiaozi, Xiangu Steamed Dumplings, Qunlong Naohai jiaozi, Lotus Chicken jiaozi and Sugar Crispy jiaozi, which have various tastes and shapes.
7. ruyi banquet
It is a feast with "Congratulations on getting rich" as the main cage. Congratulations on getting rich is an artistic steamed dumpling developed from the homonym of Nostoc flagelliforme.
8. Sam sun banquet
Jiaozi feast made of pork, beef and fish stuffing. This banquet is mainly based on three fresh jiaozi, accompanied by 20 kinds of artistic jiaozi, such as green pepper pilaf, steamed dumplings with paste, assorted steamed dumplings, celery steamed dumplings and beef with strange flavor. This banquet is innovative on the basis of maintaining the traditional flavor of jiaozi, and it is a kind of banquet with rich flavor.
9. Lohan Zhai Banquet
This is a vegetarian feast in jiaozi. Luohanzhai is the main cage, with 20 kinds of artistic dumplings such as crispy rice with tomato sauce, plain horseshoe dumplings, apple steamed dumplings, Wuren steamed dumplings and Yinxian steamed dumplings. It has the characteristics of fresh taste, light taste and rich nutrition.
Qiannian dumplings feast
1959, wonton and jiaozi were found in the tomb of Tang in Astana.
Jiaozi and wonton are common foods in daily life and are deeply loved by people. Jiaozi and wonton are also favorite foods of Uighurs. They are called "Juwa" and "Ququer" respectively in Uygur language. Every weekend, in many Uighur families, there will be a scene in which the whole family get together to pack jiaozi. When a plate of hot jiaozi is served, after several comities, everyone will pick up chopsticks. This atmosphere is full of rich family life. Jiaozi has a very long history in Xinjiang. Judging from the jiaozi food unearthed from the ancient tomb in Turpan, jiaozi has become one of the favorite foods of Xinjiang people in the Tang Dynasty 1000 years ago.
Jiaozi is a traditional food of the Han nationality.
Jiaozi was originally a traditional food for the Han people. The reason why it can be accepted by people of all ethnic groups is that jiaozi's production method is relatively simple, and it tastes very delicious. There is a saying in the northern region: "Delicious but not as good as jiaozi." There is a folk song that says, "It's cold, and it's gentle. Eat jiaozi for the New Year." Now Han people still keep the custom of eating jiaozi on New Year's Eve. In order to eat jiaozi at home on this night, people from afar will travel thousands of miles back to their hometown to reunite with their families and have a lively and happy New Year. In the Chinese New Year folk custom, eating "jiaozi" on New Year's Eve is a big meal, which is irreplaceable by any delicious food.
People think that jiaozi originated from the Yellow River Basin in the north and has been circulating for thousands of years. Jiaozi had many names in ancient China, such as prison pill, jiaozi, Joule, flat food, water steamed stuffed bun, boiled cake and water dessert. The Northern Dynasties called it "Wonton". Yan Zhitui, a native of the Northern Qi Dynasty, said, "Today, wonton is shaped like a crescent moon, and it is delicious all over the world." This crescent-shaped wonton should be jiaozi. Duan, a writer in the Tang Dynasty, said in Youyang Miscellaneous Wine and Food: "Prisoner pills are in cages, and prisoner pills are in soup." The "liquid medicine" here is jiaozi. The word "Joule" appeared in the Ming Dynasty, and Shen Defu, a juren in the Wanli period of the Ming Dynasty, wrote "Wanli Wild Collection", which mentioned "Joule in the Spring Book". It was called "jiaozi" in Qing Dynasty.
Scholars believe that the word "jiaozi" has the meaning of alternating old and new. New Year's Eve is the end of the past year and the beginning of a new year. At this time, it is the first day of the first lunar month. Eating jiaozi means "making friends when you are young", meaning "making friends", and "jiaozi" is homophonic, meaning "reunion and happiness" and "good luck".
Legend has it that "Xi" is a very powerful monster, which will appear at the turn of the year and endanger the world. People think that in order to get rid of the bad luck for one year, we must eat "jiaozi" on New Year's Eve. On New Year's Eve, after eating jiaozi, people will gain a lot of strength and become brave and powerful in the struggle against "Xi". Then, men, women and children set off firecrackers together to help the gods drive away the monsters. This year will be a good year, and people can live a happy life.
Jiaozi's other name is "Bian Shi", which is said to have appeared in the Song Dynasty. jiaozi was still called "Bian Shi" in the Ming Dynasty. During the Wanli period of the Ming Dynasty, there was a eunuch named Liu Ruoyu. Because of the intervention of eunuch Wei Zhongxian's best friend, he was beheaded. During his imprisonment, in order to defend himself and prove that he is not a client of Wei Zhongxian, he wrote the book "Strategy", which mentioned a lot about the court diet:
On the first day of the first month, on the fifth watch, incense is burned and firecrackers are set off. Eating Chili and cypress wine, eating snacks-plain food. Sometimes there is a silver or two in the flat food. Whoever eats this kind of flat food means that he will have a good year.
The word "flat food" has been passed down to this day. Uighurs living in Kashgar and Hotan now call jiaozi a "living doll", while Uighurs living in Turpan and Hami still call it a "flat food".
Jiaozi was found in the tomb of Astana.
Jiaozi has a long history. According to some legends, Zhang Zhongjing, a famous doctor in the Eastern Han Dynasty, invented jiaozi. After Zhang Zhongjing retired from Changsha, he saw many people down and out, with cold weather and frozen ears. Zhang Zhongjing was very sad to see this scene, so he got the name "Quhan Joule Decoction". That is, mutton, peppers and some cold-dispelling herbs are wrapped in dough, wrapped in adults' ears, cooked in a pot and then distributed to poor patients. After the patient ate it, the disease of freezing ears was cured.
Zhang Zhongjing was a famous physician in the Eastern Han Dynasty. Known as the sage of medicine, he used to be the magistrate of Changsha, so he was called "Zhang Changsha". Zhang Zhongjing's Treatise on Febrile Diseases is a famous medical work in ancient China. Zhang Zhongjing is very caring. Until the New Year's Eve, he was still treating people and giving medicines to patients. People will never forget Zhang Zhongjing's kindness. On the first day of New Year's Day, while celebrating the New Year, people cook New Year's food in the form of joules and eat it in the morning. People call this kind of food Joule and jiaozi. Later, the custom of eating jiaozi on New Year's Day spread among the people to commemorate the day when Zhang Zhongjing cured the ears of the poor.
Jiaozi, as an important food in the diet culture of Han nationality, has been recorded in many historical documents and legends, and has also been found in archaeological discoveries in Xinjiang for many years. During the period of 1959, Xinjiang archaeologists excavated a variety of foods including jiaozi in the tomb of Astana Tang in Turpan. Jiaozi is about 5cm long and 1.5cm wide, and it is well preserved. And the shape of jiaozi found here is the same as that of jiaozi now. Although it is small in scale, its historical and cultural value is immeasurable, which has made important contributions to the study of ancient food culture in Xinjiang.
Turpan people in the Tang Dynasty ate wonton.
Wonton is an ancient snack in China, and it is also a soup food that we often see in our life. Uighurs call wonton "Ququer", and the stuffing inside is mainly mutton and onion, as well as alfalfa stuffing and red amaranth stuffing, which is very delicious.
According to ancient documents, the history of wonton is longer than that of jiaozi. Jiaozi was originally called wonton, and jiaozi may be a kind of food separated from wonton. "Food Records" records: "Wonton, or chaos". The book Zi Yuan written by Ge Hong in Jin Dynasty is called Wonton. In the Northern and Southern Dynasties, it was called Huntun in the Book of Qi Yaomin. According to the rules of word-making, chaos is a kind of food, and later it changed to the side and became wonton. There was no distinction between wonton and jiaozi in ancient times. It was not until the Tang Dynasty that wonton and jiaozi were formally distinguished, and wonton became a delicate jiaozi.
There is a fable in Zhuangzi that before the creation, there was a great god of chaos. His appearance is different from that of human beings, and there are no seven tricks on his face. The whole person is a mass of meat. Later, two gods representing time and space gave chaos seven tricks. Although chaos dies, everything in the world appears and becomes colorful. Ye Shuxian, a famous scholar, believes that the custom of eating wonton is closely related to the creation myth of Taoism.
In the Tang Dynasty, Turpan people in Xinjiang ate delicious wonton, which was also confirmed in archaeological discoveries. 1959 Several wonton, made of wheat flour, about 3cm long and1.9cm wide, were also unearthed in the tomb of Astana Tang in Turpan. Although it was not fresh when unearthed and looked very old, it is by far the oldest wonton in China, and it is not easy to preserve it for more than 1000 years. Its historical and cultural research value is self-evident.
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