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As a child, I was a sleepyhead and didn’t want to get up even after being called by adults several times in the morning. Suddenly, the cry of "Tofu Nao'er - hot, hot and tender..." came from outside the yard, and I couldn't sit still anymore. It was such a simple cry, so touching and deeply rooted in people's hearts that I He immediately got out of bed, picked up the bowl, asked his mother for two cents, and rushed outside...

The street vendors at that time all had their own skills, and they had to carry a small load. Baskets or carts can be filled with a wide variety of goods. I remember that the pickle seller was a woman. She had a dazzling array of things on her little cart, and her voice was clear and sweet: "Make soy sauce and vinegar, mustard lumps - pickles... pickled radish..." They are the sellers. Every day was very regular, and he would come to the door of my courtyard on time every day to sell food. At that time, no one had a refrigerator, but they could eat and buy everything fresh.

I feel that the tones of the hawkers may have been passed down from their ancestors. It is an old tune, and many of the names and pronunciations are quite different from today's. For example, the waste collector shouted: "Sell those books, papers and newspapers, tattered rubber shoes, tattered leather shoes, tattered sports shoes, tattered linings and tattered covers, sell those glass bottles..." "Ragged linings" refer to old clothes and rags, "tattered covers" "It's an old cotton cover, and "glass bottle" is a wine bottle, oil bottle, medicine bottle, etc. In the old days, it was popular to exchange household waste products directly for small commodities. For example, some hawkers would shout like this: "Go home and look for it, go home and look for it, long hair, scraps of cloth, broken copper, old iron, old rubber, toothpaste skins, etc." ------

The cries of hawkers on the streets have their own characteristics. In Beijing, they are called "shou". The cries of hawkers in various parts of my country are diverse and colorful, and their tones are melodious and beautiful. At that time, adults and children had an intuition when they heard the sound of hawking. At that time, transportation was not convenient, and all consumer goods, including food, daily necessities, etc., were obtained from street vendors. Therefore, no matter where they lived, I have become inseparable from street vendors and have become an indispensable part of my life.

As long as I can remember, the sounds of hawking have been various and strange, including those from other places and those from Qingdao. Tour hawking, as well as Changzhou's characteristic hawking, although the voices of these hawking are different, they all support the town with all kinds of flavors in the 1950s.

"Who wants to buy combing oil-osmanthus oil

"Who buys--small root garlic"

"Who buys--Qu Mocai"

Changzhou's grate is made in Changzhou

Do you have anything to say about selling mother flowers?

"Welding iron - come the pot"

"Come sharpen the scissors - use the kitchen knife"

Collect junk, scrap copper and aluminum——

"Soy tofu, stinky tofu"

"Tofu is so hot"

" Curium basins, curium bowls, and curium vats——",

"rags--for money"

With the progress of social civilization, today's small traders no longer use their goods. Instead of using a tricycle, a small tractor or a truck to push a cart and carry a load, there is no need to shout in the street. Instead, a loudspeaker is used. It is just a matter of recording the shouting and playing it over and over again. Don’t worry about speaking loudly at the end of the day. Dry tongue. The gas pumpers openly recorded pop music instead of shouting, riding a tricycle with "Butterfly Lovers" playing on the loudspeaker, which sounded quite comical.

In my spare time, I often hear the familiar cries from my childhood hometown.

So, I recalled those bitter and simple days, with an extra sense of longing, and gave birth to many reveries ------

For example, the shouts of the watermelon sellers in summer:

"Eat it and try a piece of it. The iceman's watermelon has crispy texture; the triangular teeth are as big as a boat, and the texture of rock sugar; the stuffing of the August Mid-Autumn mooncakes, the banana leaves. If you don’t leave, the bee has set up a nest here by mistake; it tastes sweet to you, you two eldest sons...” This small piece of libretto is simply a miniature literary work, it is both parallelism and metaphor, and it also makes sense. rhyme. There are both straightforward boasts and veiled foreshadowing. Each word is closely centered around the sweetness of watermelon, with layer upon layer of emphasis. There is no sentence that is not full of temptation and is not annoying to listen to. After impressing the buyer, the price finally came to light: "Two big boys and one tooth."

For example, the vegetable seller shouted:

"Cilantro, spicy green pepper, eggplant, lentils, hard garlic seedlings, cucumbers with white flowers, lotus roots, lentils, tomatoes, frosted winter melons, eh, Rao Coriander, leek, chestnut-flavored noodles, winter melon, horseradish and leek, radish, carrot, radish, Chinese chive, boiled leek..." Why do you need to buy winter melon with coriander? There is a time difference "hidden" in this: when I get home, I wash the melon and cut it into pieces, steam it in a pot and select coriander at the same time. The time is just right. A few small words reveal the rationality of careful calculation. Even ordinary people must live a refined and tasteful life.

Most of Xi'an's "yellers" are concentrated in food stalls and night markets in the market, such as Beiyuanmen Street, Damaishi Street, and Dongxin Street Night Market. Especially at the North Courtyard Gate, the food stalls are crowded together, and the shouts are naturally loud. Here, "Roast mutton! Authentic roast mutton!" Over there, "Zeer cake! Date mud Zeng cake!" There are also countless treasures like "Bean paste buns, Sugar buns, millet cakes, black rice cakes, buckwheat cakes, jujube cakes, and rice noodle cakes!" He can order more than seventy or eighty kinds of food in one breath. The shouts and shouts come and go, but they are still a part of the scenery on this street.

Another type of shouting people in Xi'an are mobile hawkers. Although they are scattered and individual, their shouting is more distinctive. This is inevitable. You think, if his shouts are not novel and not pleasant enough, can they call out the old and young who are staying at home? I remember when I was a child, I lived on Bei Sifu Street. As soon as the sound of rattles and shouts of "Tang - Noodles - People!" rang out, the children in the neighborhood would run out of every house like flying. People gathered around the vendors selling glutinous rice paste and kneading dough. The adults in charge of money also slowly followed suit. Let’s look at the performance of the salesman and hawker. He puts a thick square iron plate on the small charcoal stove, swipes a spoonful of hot sugar dilute on the iron plate a few times, and immediately draws a small flower or a bird, with a small square in the middle. It was held up on a small stick, and it was both beautiful and delicious. The children were overjoyed, and the adults were satisfied after seeing it and were willing to pay for it. The dough-maker has a unique skill. When the home-made white dough is in the hands of the vendors, he pinches it three times and two times to make a pig, with exaggerated ears and belly, which makes the children burst into laughter. The salesman and hawker also collected the money with one hand, and shouted proudly: "Sugar--noodles--come here!"

This loud shout is very strong like the northwest wind on the loess. , the first word is shouted out loudly, then drawled smoothly, and the last sound must be a heavy oblique tone. For example, "甑--cake!", "Change--rice!", "Wake rice noodles, fish and fish--stir up the dough!" The shouts are ups and downs, sonorous and powerful, much like the local Qin opera. Yuan Haowen, a poet of the Yuan Dynasty, said in "Send to the People in Qin": "Guanzhong has a complete soil, people are straight and righteous, the wind is familiar, the songs are generous, and they are the same as those of the Qin and Han Dynasties." This describes the characteristics of Qin people's rap. . The writer Liang Shiqiu recalled that when he was a boy in Beijing, hearing the cries and shouts in the streets outside the courtyard was like hearing a cappella in Peking Opera, which was very charming. It seems that the shouts from various places can more or less represent a bit of local drama. Perhaps, dramatic singing evolved from early shouting.

I think the hawking and shouting in the streets of Xi'an is a kind of folk culture, like Qin Opera and the old houses in Xi'an. Unfortunately, Qin Opera has gradually declined in the city, and with the large-scale building construction movement in recent years, there are fewer and fewer old houses in Xi'an.

Perhaps Xi'an has too many royal attractions from the Qin, Han and Tang dynasties and does not care enough about the folk customs of the Ming, Qing and the Republic of China. No one will advocate for the protection of folk customs like the writer Mr. Feng Jicai. With the development of the times and the improvement of the city's appearance, there are fewer and fewer vendors in Xi'an, and the shouts are becoming increasingly quiet. On the small street where I live now, the family that has been selling jujube rice steamer cakes in a big pot for several generations has closed its stall now. Most of the sneaky mobile vendors ride bicycles or tricycles and are flexible and play a game of mouse and cat with the city management. What makes people laugh or cry is that some of the shouts were replaced by trumpets. Some hawker carts are equipped with electric speakers equipped with chips that record shouts in advance and play them while walking. For example, in the small street where I live, the loudest shout every day is "饣合饣each---, buckwheat noodles 合饣each--!" is the recording played. I don't know if the people in the agency heard it, but thought that the hawker really had such a loud voice.