How to take a very good photo with a stupid camera?

A stupid machine can take good pictures.

Recently, a classmate asked how to take pictures with a fool's camera. Here I offer some suggestions. The above is my personal experience, and I hope it will help everyone.

1. Because the maximum aperture of most stupid machines is below F3.5, try to use ISO400 film, which can make the camera use a faster shutter and reduce the blur probability. Even if the flash must be used, it can reduce the use of flash, save electricity and increase the effective distance.

2. use a flash when taking pictures outdoors! Can make people's faces more beautiful and remove some shadows. Relax, fool. The flash of the camera is not that strong. Set the camera to forced flash to make the flash work outdoors.

3. Turn off the flash in the dim light indoors or in the dark outside! Then the camera will try to expose with the slowest shutter and the largest aperture. Of course, you must try to stabilize the camera, use a corner stand or put it on a flat surface. If it is too dark, remind the subject one, two and three not to move! Don't use automatic mode, or the camera will make the flash work, but still use the general aperture shutter combination. As a result, the theme is barely bright enough (sometimes difficult) and the background is dark. Some cameras can even choose slow shutter and flash, which can handle night portraits.

4. Try to hold the camera steady and make more use of the terrain, a tree and a low wall. You can consider buying a mini-speaker, which can be inserted in your coat pocket without any burden. It would be better if you could get a portable horn frame. Especially when a fool zooms with a long lens, the aperture may only be below F 10, which is very slow relative to the shutter! Pay more attention.

5. Remember that the camera is not a SLR camera. What you see from the observation window is not what the camera sees. The viewing window is always clear, but your theme is not necessarily! In most stupid cameras, you press the shutter half, and the lens starts metering and focusing. If the subject is not in the center of the scene, it may be out of focus and the exposure is not accurate. Therefore, it should be noted that if the theme is not in the center, focus and measure the light for the theme first (the shutter is half pressed), and then re-compose. This is the same as the principle of SLR electronic camera. This can ensure that the focus of the theme is exposed accurately.

6. Practice holding the camera more, and don't cover the lens, flash or focusing and metering holes with your fingers, sleeves, hair and beard.

otherwise ...

7. Practice selective photometry. Generally, most fools measure light at the center, similar to FM2, so you can lock the exposure value by pressing the shutter half. Measure the light of a certain part of the picture. However, it should be noted that the distance should be close to the theme, otherwise the focus will not be accurate. This is an advanced skill and the author is still exploring it.

8. If you take photos through the window or screen window, you should choose to lock the camera lens infinitely or close to the window to avoid losing focus.

9. Check the instruction manual to see what the nearest focal length of your camera lens is. If it is 40cm, don't shoot anything below this distance, because it will definitely be out of focus. If an object is close to its nearest focal length, most cameras have a warning light next to the window. Look carefully!

10. As mentioned above, because the observation window and the lens have different axes, their fields of view are different, and the closer the object is, the greater the error. The edge of the picture is often cut off, and the framing window has a smaller grid, which is generally used for close-up composition. But this is just a rough idea. There will still be errors.

1 1. The new camera should be familiar with the manual and review it regularly in the future. Don't shoot friends tomorrow, buy a camera today. You may not even know how to install batteries and negatives! Maybe friends turn against each other!

Please use a new negative! Don't laugh. A few days ago, the author was told by the print shop that my film had been sent to print for three years and the effect was not good. I don't know whether to blame the camera, technology, shops or film. The other day, my mother brought me a roll of negatives found on her dressing table. It seems years have passed! I'm not taking it on a trip! Also, please finish a roll as soon as possible and send it to the laundry as soon as possible, without precious negatives. Don't find the film sleeping in the camera for a long time after half a year.

13. Please bring an extra battery! The author once went to Malaysia with a stupid camera in high spirits, only to find that the camera kept flashing but could not take pictures, which was very strange. I didn't know the situation at that time, but fortunately, a beautiful sister in the same group had a camera, otherwise it would really spoil the fun. Yes, it is this incident that aroused my interest in learning photography. Maybe everyone who wants to learn photography should have such an experience!

14. Please don't put the camera or film in the trunk of the car or the window in the back seat, it will have some chemical effects.

15. Finally, don't use your broken camera and take some boring photos. That user is really a fool. Try horizontal, straight, condescending, squatting, squatting! Use flash, expose for a long time, make faces, pose, take pictures, even tie your camera to several big balloons, press the selfie camera, and then let him take off in Ran Ran. Shoot it down with a slingshot. I'm kidding. You know what I mean.

(B) about the camera and its use skills.

1. "What kind of stupid camera is better?" Because of the limited cost and complete functions, the quality of a fool camera is generally not too high (compared with amateur or quasi-professional cameras), and it often has many functions but poor imaging quality. Especially for cameras with zoom, zoom costs a lot of money, the lens quality is worse and the aperture is generally small. Fixed focus fool camera is obviously much better than zoom camera with the same price, and its aperture is much larger. Better fixed-focus fools are Olympus u-II, Estee T5 (T4 supper), Ricoh GR 1 and Changjiang Lingda. At present, the price of u-II is around 900, which is small and beautiful, with a little luminosity. I have a detailed post about it. T5 about 1700, Zeiss lens, good imaging, horizontal viewfinder, can be seen from above, can be used for sneak shots, Balda about 1 100, German lens, manual overwinding, focusing, GR 1 3800+, compact and powerful. Olympus u series and canon luna series seem to be ok.

2. "Many photos I took were empty. What's wrong? " When taking every photo, a fool should decide the following parameters: focal length, aperture and shutter. All three have an influence on the photos. As we all know, the focal length is only clear in a range before and after the focal length. The aperture and shutter together determine how much light enters the camera to expose the film. Aperture and shutter are complementary, that is, opening the aperture one level and speeding up the shutter one level at the same time, the exposure value remains the same, and the brightness of the photos obtained is the same as the original, and vice versa. Most fools decide these three parameters when the shutter button is pressed halfway. As long as the shutter button is not raised, these values will remain unchanged. There are many reasons why photos are blurred. First, the focus may be wrong. The photos caused by this reason are all blurred. For example, in the case of myopia without glasses, the method of measuring focal length by a fool machine is different. Some can penetrate glass, others can't. People who can't shoot through the glass will focus on the glass and the scenery will be blurred. In addition, although the camera focuses quickly, it still takes some time to drive with a motor. If the shutter is pressed too fast, the shooting before focusing is naturally weak (some cameras are designed to open the shutter after focusing is completed, which is why sometimes the shutter is pressed, which is common when shooting moving objects). To solve this problem, don't press the shutter hard. Secondly, hand shaking or photographer moving is more common. The phenomenon caused by this reason has different degrees of emptiness. Fast moving places (such as hands) are more virtual than slow moving places (such as faces). This is usually caused by dark light, which will lead to longer exposure time. However, the maximum aperture of a fool's camera is limited, especially a zoom camera, which will make a fool have to extend the shutter time, and a person is holding the camera at the shutter. This is one of the reasons why it is best to use a fixed focus fool. The solution is to keep your hands as stable as possible, hold your breath and press the shutter. In addition, try to use high-speed film, 200 degrees, preferably 400 degrees. The exposure time of high-speed film is short. For the same scenery, it takes160 seconds to shoot at 100 degrees, and only1125 seconds to shoot at 200 degrees. It's best to buy film in a specialty store, like Koda GODE400. Generally, a developing store can sell more than 40 yuan, but in a big specialty store.

Some are only twenty-eight, and they have been kept in the refrigerator.

2. "Its wide angle (u-II) really hurts me. The scenery I take is always much smaller than what I see. Very clear, but too small. " Wide-angle lens has two characteristics. One is a large range. The coverage of a 35 mm lens is 62 degrees, which means that it can photograph all the scenes covered by 62 degrees in front of you, and the visual angle of the human eye is about 45 degrees (referring to the clear range, not counting the "two corners of the eyes"). It is natural to put a wider range of scenery on the same big photo, each one is smaller. Second, the foreground is exaggerated, that is, the closer something is, the bigger it appears in the photo. The closer the distance, the more obvious the effect. If you take a portrait of yourself thirty or forty centimeters in front of your face, you will be impressed by it, because even if you are slim, your nose will be as big as a pear and your ears will be as small as a mouse. D) This is the characteristic of a wide-angle lens, like a fierce horse. See if you can make good use of it. Using the first feature, wide-angle lenses are often used to display vast and brilliant scenes, such as grasslands. At this time, it is best to use some prospects, such as a small flower nearby, to make people see far and wide. The second feature is mainly used to exaggerate and improve the atmosphere. For example, a photo of an angry bull's nose, horn and eye crystal sticking out in front of you, or a particularly beautiful flower, can be shot into a luxurious and beautiful princess with a wide angle.

"There is a photo of me riding a horse, which actually focuses on the horse. As a result, the horse is very clear, but I am vague. " I don't know if you have noticed that when you press the shutter, it is a two-stage feeling. When you half press the shutter, the fool focuses. At this time, the cross in the middle (some cameras are a pair of brackets) is aimed at who is the most clear. The photographer must have pointed the cross at the horse. What should I do if I want to take a clear picture of people and don't want to put them in the middle cross? Just press the shutter halfway on your face, don't raise your hand, then move the camera to put the person where you want, and finally press the shutter to the end.

4 "once I went out to play, no matter what sunshine and clouds, I couldn't make the white clouds white enough and the blue sky blue enough to make your photos all white." While focusing, the camera is also measuring light. What does the camera think? It doesn't know that you are holding snow, so it should be white, and you are holding coal, so it should be black. Its function is to average all the light. No matter what you take, the average brightness of the final result in the photo is 18% gray. What color is this? It's the gray on the cover of Kodak film box in your hand. People's skin color is as bright as this gray. When you take a picture of the cloud, it doesn't know that you are taking a picture of the cloud, and it becomes 18% gray, which is a common problem of the fool machine. High-end machines can be adjusted by exposure compensation, and fools generally don't have this function. But there are also the following solutions: 1 If you use the u-II, which is a bit of a light metering fool, and the picture has a small dark place, you can set the camera to "spot metering", so that the whole picture will not be averaged, and only the small place near the cross will be 18% gray. Aim the cross at the dark place, press the shutter half-way, and then move the camera to shoot the cloud, so that the cloud will be white. For example, if a person's background is white clouds, the color of the clouds will be well photographed by measuring the face. People can't be in the shadow at this time. The brightness of the bluest part of the blue sky is also about 18% gray, so you can first press the shutter against the cloudless blue sky in Wan Li or the distant scenery with an average brightness of about 18%. Why stay away? Because focusing and photometry are generally carried out at the same time, the clouds are far away, so aim at the distance when metering. Don't let go, move the camera, aim at the white clouds, and press the shutter. When you understand how the camera thinks, you can make it listen to you and take the photos you want.

5. "Many photos I took are not bad, but my face is all black." This usually happens when the background is bright, such as blue sky and white clouds, and the face is backlit. The background area is large, and when the camera measures light, it is mainly affected by the brightness of the background, which will make the background better and make the face black. At this time, it is not a good idea to use spot metering (if any), because it will make the face brighter, but the background will be dead white. A better way is to fill the light with the flash of the camera. Now let's talk about how the stupid machine decides whether to flash or not in the usual automatic state. A fool uses a flash when the light is dim, and the program in the fool's machine sets a value. For example, according to photometry, when the shutter speed is slower than 1/60 seconds when the maximum aperture is used, a flash will be used. In this case, because the background is very bright, the shutter speed will not be very slow, and the flash will not be used automatically, so you should set up a mandatory flash (only for fools) to illuminate your face with a flash. In addition, you should know that the brightness of the flash exists, and the average fool uses 1.

When the film is at 00 degrees, the flash can only take 3-4 meters (with negative film), 5-6 meters at 200 degrees and 7-8 meters at 400 degrees. So when the background is bright and the face is in the shadow, you must set the mandatory flash.

6 "I took a close-up of a flower, and it looked ok at that time, but there was a piece missing from the negative." When a fool pats the shaft side, he "looks" at the film through the lens, and the viewfinder looks out from another small window near the lens. There are some errors in the pictures they see, and the closer they are to the scene, the greater the error, so most fools have close-up correction boxes (lines)

7 "Many photos are particularly dull, but they are much worse than those in other people's photo magazines." How to take a good photo is a big topic, and I can't say it. Let's talk about some tips. First of all, take less photos of "standing still and smiling", which are too rigid and unsightly. Try to take snapshots and take some lively shots of peers or locals. Usually put the camera at hand, master the operation of the camera skillfully, don't take out the camera and compare it with people for a long time before shooting, first construct a picture in your mind, pick up the camera and hold the fire immediately, which is natural. Don't rush to shoot when you see a good scene. Think about how to change the angle. How about shooting two leaves in the foreground? Should we wait until a fellow villager walks into the picture, look at people's expressions, grab a distinctive facial expression, and then wait for the light? Do you want to come back in the evening or at sunrise, wait for a bee when you shoot flowers, wait for a big bird when you shoot the sky, and find some beauty that others haven't noticed, such as Ban Bian? . . .

8. Sometimes the effect of developing the same film in two photography institutions is much worse. What should I do? "The effect of different stores is much worse. Several stores I have seen have better definition, but the color is too big, so the specialty stores are not necessarily good. For example, a whole roll of photos developed by the Oriental Pearl seems a little green to me. After trying several places, I found a photo agency that is ok at home in Sanlihe, and I will go there to take ordinary photos in the future. A better solution is to shoot a reverse film, which may be more expensive and require a slide projector, but the effect is absolutely good. Let me say a few more words about reverse films, which many friends may not have been exposed to. That is, buying special reverse films or positive films is more expensive than ordinary negative films (the kind we often use). For example, Kodak Eile-II is between 30-40, and it can be shot with ordinary fool cameras, but the exposure accuracy is higher, and some low-end fools may have worse effects, such as u-II. When taking pictures, it's the same as ordinary photos. Post-filming treatment is different from negative film, which needs E-6 process. In some big specialty stores, this kind of business is generally available, and many stores have mail processing business. The developed original is different from the negative, and all the colors are on it.

It's a "positive film", with green trees and blue sky, just like a negative film. Buy some empty frames, cut out the reverse films one by one, and put them in the frames to make them look like slides I watched when I was a child. When showing, use a slide projector to hit the photos on the wall or screen. There are large and small slide projectors, and photography needs to be displayed. For example, a few chivalrous men in the color world used professional guys from brands such as Koda, Reflact and Lecia, until 156, and finally. I have a small slide projector made in Russia, which can be folded, as long as it costs more than 300 yuan. I manually focus and lose the film, but the disadvantage is that it is easy to burn the photo when it is hot. What are the advantages of inversion film? First of all, the color saturation is high. I first turned upside down because I was fascinated by bright and bright colors. What a surprise! I've never seen you before. Secondly, the reverse film is only "developed" but not "printed" (I forgot to mention that the reverse film 10 went to 20 yuan). Film processing is a standard operation, and the quality of printed matter has a great relationship with technical materials. Reverse film avoids the danger of printing (some people in the lottery say that negative film is "for others to raise after giving birth", so don't worry too much), and everything is under your control. Also, the reversal film has a long storage time.

It seems that the color difference of color negative film is about ten years, and the reverse film is fifty years. Slide projection can make the picture very big, as long as it is far enough from the screen, it can be as big as the real scene, which is very shocking. Reverse films can also be used to make paper photos. One way is to directly enlarge the reverse film, which is more expensive, but the color is better than that of the negative film. Another way is to remake the reverse film into a negative, and then use this remake of the negative to enlarge it at will, but it will lose color. Professional photo agencies generally have this kind of business. What do you mean, you won't try?

9 A set of questions about the flash of fools > 9. 1. Why do I use forced astigmatism, but the subject (face) is still black? Environment: around 10 am, weather >; Sunny, sunny. Photo: The background is architecture and the theme is people. The sun shines from the back of the building, and people just stand in the shadow of the building. My method: face people, press the shutter button half-way, and then move the camera to the building to take people. It's on the right side of the photo. Results: The building was clear, the people were dark and the building was normal.

The use principle of the flash is as follows: the flash has a flash index (derivative), which indicates the ability of the flash to output light. Some flashlights are fixed, while others are variable. Some so-called "thinking flashing" or "wisdom flashing" fools will decide how much light to output according to the situation. First, consider the case of a fixed index. There is a formula: flash index = aperture * distance. What do you mean? It means that if the index and aperture are fixed, people's exposure at this distance is normal (don't forget that the brightness under the point light source is inversely proportional to the square of the distance), which is close to the shortage of overexposure. On the other hand, given the distance and exponent, you can calculate how much aperture to apply. There is no way to control the aperture of the stupid machine. If the flash index is fixed, you'd better put people at a fixed distance. Generally, the flash index of a fool machine is between 1 1- 13, and when it flashes, it will automatically open the aperture to the maximum. What is the maximum aperture of the fool machine? Generally, the fixed focus is between 2.0 and 3.5, and the zoom at the wide-angle end (lens retracted) and the telephoto end (lens extended) is about 3.5 to 4.5. Ok, let's do some calculations. For example, your flash index is 12, and the maximum aperture of the lens used is 4.0 (these values

Generally stated in the manual), then your flash can illuminate places beyond 12/4=3 meters, and the actual film has a certain tolerance, so exposure within a certain distance of 3 meters before and after is ok. One more thing, this flash index is calculated according to 100 degree film. If 200-degree film is used, multiply this value by 1.4 14, that is, the film with the root number of 2,400 degrees is multiplied by 2. That is to say, just now, the same stupid machine, 200-degree coil, the distance that the flash can illuminate becomes 3* 1.4 14=4.2 meters. Near this distance, overexposed, white, far away, underexposed, black. The so-called "thinking flash" (like u-II) is actually to take the focal length value obtained by the focusing system and calculate with the maximum aperture to find out how much exponential light is output, which can make the unexposed light nearby white. Look at your shooting method. I guess you are too far away from people, and your flash doesn't shine that far. That's why some people are willing to pay a lot of money for heavy and stupid flashing lights.

& gt9.2. Fixed-point metering > Environment: around 4 pm. In the room, the light is very dark; It is sunny outside the room. Photography: outside the room, far away > My method: Considering that some parts of the building are dark and some parts are better, in order to take care of the dark light >; Therefore, fixed-point measurement can be considered. So press the fixed-point metering key, and then focus on the dark part. Prompt me at this time >; Raise the flash. So after raising the flash, it was found that the fixed-point metering display was invalid. As mentioned above, when using the flash, the exposure is only related to the flash index, aperture and distance, and has nothing to do with the brightness of the scene, because the brightness of the flash is much higher than the natural light intensity (the flash is used to supplement the light when forced to flash, and the camera is still exposed at the original value). Therefore, when a fool wants to flash, he simply ignores the metering value, let alone ordinary or spot metering.

& gt9.3. How to take photos in a dark room without a flash? If the ambient light is dark and you don't want to use a flash, is it effective to use a fool at this time? If you can take pictures without holding up the flash, will there be a flash? There are many restrictions when you don't use the flash in dark light. For example, the exposure time is very long, and a tripod must be used. And the fool has the longest shutter time and the light is too dim. The poor fool spent the longest time, and may not be exposed enough. Our commonly used films are all daylight-type, and the colors taken under the light will be biased. It seems that your broken machine is going to raise the flash manually. Now most of them are automatic, the flash is fixed and flashes automatically when used. This kind of stupid machine generally has flash mode settings, including forced flash, forced non-flash, automatic, night view and other modes.

Let me talk about the night scene mode again. Because the exposure of the flash is only related to the flash index, aperture and distance, and has nothing to do with the shutter time (the electronic flash duration of the flash is only tens of thousands of seconds), fools will use a shorter exposure time for ordinary flash photos, such as1125 seconds. It is difficult to take pictures at night. If you use a flash, you can illuminate people, but the neon lights at the back are much darker than the flash, and you can't illuminate people at all. Only people and nearby things are bright, and the back is dark. Exposure for a long time without flashing, the lights are on, but people are dark. Night scene mode is an exposure mode specially designed to solve this difficulty. It flashes to illuminate people first, and then the shutter remains open until the light in the background is closed enough to expose the background well. Use a tripod when using night scene mode to avoid darkening the background. Don't move after flashing until the shutter is closed, so as not to let the blocked light pass through and make people transparent. There is also the problem of preventing red eye. The so-called red eye means that when taking a flash photo of a person, the pupil of this person is not black, but the red elephant has pinkeye. As we all know, the pupil is just a hole. The reason why the pupil is black is because the light inside cannot be reflected, but it is not the opposite.

I can't shoot it, but there are only a few. When I flash, strong light enters the pupil, which will reflect the red light emitted by blood vessels to the retina. In the photo, it is a red pupil. The red-eye prevention design is to use the small light in front of the camera to flash a few times first, and the pupil will contract when stimulated by light, so that the reflected light will be limited when I flash again.

The above principle about flash is the same for big cameras. Because the fool's function is limited, many places can't be directly controlled, so the flash is mainly used to fill the light, and it is difficult to shoot a good film with the flash.

I thought of these first, and hope other friends can continue to expand.

About the stupid camera and its clever supplement

Photography is largely restricted by the environment, and the fool machine is more restricted. So taking pictures with a fool machine is often a clumsy job. You must understand when a fool can take a good picture and when he can't.

Generally speaking, the biggest performance difference between a fool camera and a non-fool camera is that the luminous flux of the lens is very small, ranging from 1/2 to116 of a general photographic lens. This is because of the price and portability. The price of lens is closely related to luminous flux (maximum aperture). A lens with a larger aperture (double luminous flux) of the same brand is at least twice as expensive, twice as heavy and twice as thick. Similarly, a fool machine, with twice as much light, is twice as expensive. As the article said, the most expensive fool machine is fixed focus and large aperture (because it meets both large aperture and portability, it is expensive).

First, Zoom Fool (P&; (Pointing and shooting)

Generally speaking, the bigger the zoom flicker, the better the quality; The smaller, the more fancy, the worse. The greater the zoom ratio of the lens, the worse the lens, preferably 35-70mm lens, followed by 28-80mm lens. The lenses beyond this range are basically displayed at the telephoto end (the luminous flux is extremely small). Wen said that the maximum aperture of telephoto end is usually between 5.6 and 7, which is a very good and rare situation, generally between 9- 1 1. If the maximum luminous flux of the aperture f/2.8 of miu-2 is 1, then the lens luminous flux of the maximum aperture f/1is. However, the maximum luminous flux of some professional 35mm lenses is four times that of miu-2 (the maximum aperture is f/ 1.4), and the root number 2 is added to the aperture sequence, that is, 1.4. Each number increases, the luminous flux decreases by half (65438+ 0/2 of the previous one): f/65438. F/8, F/ 1 1, F/ 16, F/22, F/32 ... In fact, the same is true for ordinary cameras. The bigger the camera, the heavier the better, and the bigger the zoom lens, the worse the quality. Of course, due to the progress of machinery, electronics and optics, it is not surprising that the quality of the current large zoom lens may be better than that of the previous small zoom lens.

◆ The best zoom fool IS the IS series of Olympus, and Canon has a similar one. In fact, it is a single-lens reflex camera with detachable lens. Got a lot of other p & amp； S didn't, at the cost of losing some portability.

Second, the scenery you take is always much smaller than what you see.

There are also possible reasons: the field of view of paraxial cameras is usually smaller than that of SLR cameras. For example, SLR cameras are usually above 90%, and some professional cameras can achieve 100%, while paraxial cameras (almost all P & amp； S are paraxial machines) are usually around 85%, for example, Nikon F70 SLR is 92%, while Ricoh GR 1 is only 83%. In other words, the paraxial camera will take more pictures that can't be seen in the viewfinder, so the proportion of the subject in the picture will be smaller than that seen in the viewfinder.

A good fool's advice for novices is: ◆ After taking a good view, take a big step forward and press the shutter.

Third, blue sky and white clouds.

In fact, it is difficult to make Yun Lan white and her face normal at the same time, especially when the sun is strong. People's faces are darker than the sky. If the light is measured by people's faces, the blue sky is too violent, the sky is not blue, and the white clouds are white, but if the blue sky is not blue, then the white clouds are not white (note that many people think that the white clouds are not white, but the blue sky is not blue, and the white clouds are generally white enough to look like the primary colors of photographic paper, but the blue sky is whiter than the white clouds. If it's gray, you won't think white clouds are whiter. When measuring light against the sky, unless people are close enough, you can use a flash to fill the light, otherwise your face will be underexposed and black like Bao Gong.

◆ It is best to take photos of people, not according to the scene and according to the scene. ◇ If there must be someone, it is best to take people as part of the scene (people are far away, small, not in the middle, what to do, etc.). At that time, when watching movies, they didn't care if people's faces were black or not, but only what they were doing.

Fourth, the flash.

Different p &；; The flash index of S is different, so we should check it carefully according to the instructions. Either way, it is not enough for according to the scene at night (including in caves with colored lights), unless there is a tripod, and it is used to illuminate the subject during long exposure. Of course, when people are close, we can go to according to the scene when people are not there, or in a word: if people are not in according to the scene, there will be no according to the scene.

◆ Never expect the flash of the fool machine to be the main light source. The index is small and the aperture of the lens is small. You can imagine how much light can be reflected on the film. In other words, you can't shoot at night.

Five, the light of photography

◆ The best light for photography is oblique light, that is, the light is in the morning and one night (specifically, it can be simply considered as before 10 in the morning and after 3 pm). Angled light shines on the subject, which makes it feel textured and three-dimensional. If the sun does not shine, there will be light and darkness. For photography, it is necessary to use the diversity of light to express the theme. When the light is inclined, the photographer can use front light, side backlight, backlight and other light sources to express it. If it's noon and the light comes down from overhead, there's nothing to choose from. Think about the shadow cast by the subject-there can be long shadows at night, but nothing at noon. In addition, the color temperature is low in the morning and evening (orange and blue-purple when the color temperature is high), and the color temperature is pleasing to the eye and rich (the sky may still be blue, but the clouds are orange, but the sun is golden). The sunshine at noon is pale. You can often see the blue sky in the morning and die in vain at noon. And the trees and grass withered at noon, lifeless. So the sunshine at noon is the strongest, for P &；; S was originally at that time, but there was no good scenery, which was really contradictory. It is the habit of many landscape photographers to turn off their phones at noon. Procter & gamble company. S has a little light. Generally speaking, the light is good in the morning and evening, but it often leads to slow shutter and blurred picture. Use tripod, lose portability. Dilemma.

Six, reverse film and negative film

Reverse films cost less abroad than negative films, but negative films are particularly cheap at home (Le Kai's reason? ), the advantages of reverse film are all negative film disadvantages, only one thing: the films you shoot can't be shown to your friends in the photo album, so you have to get together and show them on a slide show, and reverse film and direct development are too expensive.

However, it is not recommended for beginners to use reversal, and the reversal film will inevitably hit the wall in the end, often one meter square, which can not meet the requirements of exposure and definition with ordinary P&S. Compared with the enlarged version of 3R, all the shortcomings are obvious. As long as you have seen the scenes taken in reverse films, look at the scenes taken in negatives at the same time and make sure you don't want photos. simple