What's the story of noodles with gravy?

Vermicelli is one of the most common pasta in northern China, which is widely spread in Beijing, Tianjin, Shandong and Northeast China. The book "Northeast Flavor Snacks" introduces noodles with gravy in the northeast, and the book "Interesting Popular Noodles jiaozi" mentions noodles with gravy in Shandong. In the Collection of Hebei Dialects, there is a special entry of "noodles with gravy", which introduces the names of noodles with gravy in various parts of Hebei in detail, such as plain noodles, noodles with gravy, noodles with gravy, etc., which proves the popularity of noodles with gravy in these areas from one side.

The most famous Zhajiang Noodles is the representative of Beijing snacks. When introducing noodles, China Dictionary of Ethnic Cuisine lists Zhajiang noodles as the representative noodles in Beijing. Noodles with noodles are high-grade pasta for ordinary people in old Beijing, especially in special circumstances. At that time, no matter which neighborhood in the same hospital ate noodles with gravy, something must have happened. Old people's birthdays, children's full moons, three-year-old birthdays, centenary birthdays and craftsmen's apprentices are all celebrated with noodles with gravy. This custom is recorded in the folk song Yuanyangkou in Beijing's Hundred Books. "After a while, my wife sent a message to order a meal, and all the servants rushed to the river. Eight bowls of hot dishes were served at the top, and then dozens of dishes were eaten. Marinate crab and shredded chicken as you like, and the marinated pork below is no different. After all, the servants were all finished, so people prepared chariots and horses and dressed up the children.

Mr. Tang, a famous gourmet born in Beijing, once wrote an article entitled Noodles to show this kind of food to the world. The article reveals the love of noodles with gravy everywhere. In the article Bitterness and Fried Sauce in the Art of Eating, Liu Fang of Taiwan Province Province even indicated her intention at the beginning of the article that "the real Peiping people only recognize two things when eating noodles, namely brine and fried sauce. ..... Generally speaking, noodles in northern families are mostly fried sauce or brine. Save trouble, eating shredded pork is no longer a light meal. ..... I am a real Yankee. If I had to go to a small restaurant to feed the five zang-organs temple, first of all, I would never eat jiaozi. Second, I will never eat bittern and Zhajiang Noodles. The reason is that all they do is sell dog meat. Isn't this the case? " The stubbornness of the old Peiping people and their preference for noodles with gravy can be seen.