Why can't the barber shop find "female Tony" now?

May 29, 2022 12:52? 36Kr official account

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Retro and modern, "double-headed" pop woman Tony

You can always find Ajie or Kevin in the barber shop, holding the title of director and designer. Teacher Tony, who is often teased by everyone, is also a male English name.

Where are all the women Tony?

Their imprint seems to stay only in Houlang's childhood-when you open a barber shop near your home, there is always an amiable aunt to touch, cut and cut your hair.

Ran Suli, 49, is one of them. She is also an aunt-level hairdresser.

Ran Suli's convenience barber shop, in the bungalow area of Liren Street, Xicheng District, Beijing, has been open for 15 years. This kind of barbershop hidden in the ground floor of residential buildings and hutongs is hard to find on the comment website. Most bosses are barbers themselves. They are old and don't like to dress up, which makes it difficult for you to recognize their professional identity, or even their aunts who pass by when you buy food at the vegetable market.

Most of the people who come to the store are old customers of the community, and the acquaintances and neighbors who are mixed in the community often patronize. Ran Suli, who has been horribly pale in recent years, is probably the most knowledgeable person.

Su Ran lide convenience barber shop

But this year, more and more young girls came to the store. The popularity of little red books has brought new customers to Ran Suli's shop.

"Last year, a beautiful woman told me, Aunt, the little red book I sent you, many people like it. I asked her at that time: "Beauty, what is a little red book? Do you still write books? "Ran Suli talked about her experience of becoming popular.

Many girls want to perm retro curly hair. This old shop "has the flavor of that era" and specially comes to punch in. At 9: 30 in the morning, it is the opening time of Ran Suli. Before 10, customers who make online reservations will come to your door.

"I just like being with you young girls. This room has become beautiful. " Ran Suli is kind and lively, and can always blend in with customers. At lunch time, she will also order food for customers in the store, take care of each other's tastes intimately and ask, "Beauty, do you eat spicy food?"

This convenient barber shop has only three seats and a small sofa about 1.5 meters long for customers to wait. There is only one stool in the shampoo area, and customers need to bend over. In this old shop, only Ran Suli works with another barber aunt on weekdays, and she will ask acquaintances for help on weekends. The main business of this shop is ordinary haircut and perm. 30 yuan, an ordinary barber, and 38 yuan, a woman, have their perms divided into three grades: 280, 300 and 380.

This shop is not fashionable from head to toe. Ran Suli doesn't even know what Tony is. She smiled shyly. "Aunt is an antique and can't understand what you young people say."

However, the secret of fashion is hidden in Ran Suli's mobile phone photo album. She has accumulated hundreds of photos taken for female customers. This is the shape of her hair after styling. It has a heavy and compact volume, which is quite retro in the last century. Before she started perming every time, these photos became customers' reference. "I have everything you want."

There is a trolley for rolling pins in Ransuli's shop.

Compared with Ran Suli, who has nearly 30 years of hairdressing experience, Tang Xin, who quickly developed hairdressing skills and opened a barber shop in seven months, is definitely a budding new hairdresser.

Tang Xin's shop is located in Bantian, called Future Hair Salon. April 16 just opened, at the fork of the road between the school and the community. About 20 square meters of storefront, three cuts and two irons, white light bulbs embedded in the mirror in front of the guests, lights up, reflecting everyone's face.

This new store is very modern for young people. Barbers in the shop are also proficient in the most popular hairstyles, such as figure-eight bangs, princess hairstyles, perms and French perms ..... They can meet customers' requirements according to their own perception of photos and the skills they have learned.

Tang Xin Barber Shop/Tuyuan Respondents

The guests never stopped, because they were so busy that the wallpaper of the new store was officially opened before it was finished. At the same time as the opening of the new store, Tang Xin, as the boss, is studying hard in a beauty school to prepare for the intermediate beauty technology qualification examination.

A year ago, she was a programmer of an Internet company in Shenzhen. The job as a programmer gave her a good salary and considerable savings, but Tang Xin just didn't think she could sit still. She doesn't think she is suitable for working in front of a computer for a long time, and there is no pressure to make money now. "She wants to pursue the life she likes more freely."

In September, 200212002, Tang Xin, who had worked as a front-end worker for four years, decided to resign and change careers. Her idea at that time was to be a kindergarten teacher or a primary school teacher. But after careful consideration, she thought she was more suitable for a service-oriented job, so she chose the hairdressing industry that she was interested in. "I want every boy and girl to find the most beautiful self."

She has signed up for the zero-based training class and the director class, and the better scissors cost more than 100 yuan. So far, she has invested about 20,000 yuan in hairdressing training.

Tang Xin shared her career change experience on social platforms and won more than 4,000 likes.

One is retro with a sense of the times and the other is modern. Ran Suli and Tang Xin represent the two ends of popular female hair stylists on social networks.

The older generation of female hairdressers, in order to support their families and learn a craft, attract customers at cheap prices in an era when there is no diversified demand for hairstyle aesthetics; When the younger generation of female hairdressers enter this industry, most of them are obsessed with "beauty", learning more technical know-how and mastering the operation ability of social media.

But today, the ratio of men to women in the hairdressing industry is about 9: 1. Someone commented on Tang Xin's social account, "I especially need female hairdressers, and now hairdressers are basically men ..." This message received 72 likes. In Weibo, users often share their complaints about failed haircuts. A female netizen thinks that it is difficult for boys to get their own aesthetic points after being cut by a male barber by mistake, and she wails. She wrote: "The world needs a woman Tony!"

The probability of meeting a barber is too low.

As an old barber with nearly 30 years' experience in haircut, Ran Suli also feels that "there seem to be fewer and fewer girls" in this industry.

She comes from Youyang mountain area in Chongqing, and is the first batch of drifters. 1989, 16-year-old Ran Suli heard that the government helped the poor and provided opportunities to work in Beijing, so she left the mountainous area with a group of young people. "I came out from that era and changed a lot of boats and cars. I don't know how many days passed. I came to Beijing in a daze and felt that I was sold by traffickers. "

After coming to Beijing, she began to look for a job, made parts in factories, served dishes in restaurants, sold clothes wholesale, saved some money and opened a glass carving factory. But because of illiteracy, I was cheated and the factory failed to open. Later, she planned to learn a technology. 1995, she signed up for a hairdressing class with all her money, totaling 6,000 yuan. She chose to make a living by cutting hair.

After half a year, Ran Suli learned almost all the skills. She found a "master" and began to be an apprentice. At that time, she was very devout in learning crafts. "I have to cook him good food, coax him every day and pay him."

In the 1990s, Ran Suli had to bear a lot of industry pressure if she wanted to mix out. "There are a lot of people studying together, but there are not many stores in the end. At that time, the reputation of haircut was not very good. " At that time, hairdressers were not a decent job, but for women, they had to bear the prejudice and ambiguous speculation of "hair salon girls".

Fortunately, Ran Suli is lively and cheerful, and she can also bear hardships. After working in the barber shop for less than a year, the boss saw that she did a good job and gave her the barber shop in Haidian District. Ran Suli did well in business, but in less than a year, the shop was demolished. "The demolition made me have some money, and then I drove from Haidian." Ran Suli later hired four or five coolies, only women, to eat and live with them. There is still an aunt in Chongqing who still works with her, and Ran Suli also has food and shelter-this is also a rule passed down from that era.

There are only female helpers in Ran Suli's shop, and they are all good sisters who studied hairdressing at that time. Some of them have stopped hairdressing, but their hands are no strangers. "She hasn't had a haircut for several years after giving birth, and now she has opened a beauty salon." Ran Suli introduced an aunt who often came to the store to help on weekends. She cut the man's hair neatly in the shop,/kloc-cut three customers in 0/5 minutes. She didn't wear an apron, only wore the usual pink beauty salon work clothes, and she could see the traces of tattooed eyebrows, and she also wore dark lipstick on her mouth.

Ran Suli is giving the guests a haircut.

Because of getting married and having children, many women temporarily quit their jobs or stop being hairdressers, which is very common in the industry.

Lin Jie, 20 years old, began to study hairdressing after graduating from junior high school. Having been a barber for six years, he has only met a few young female hairdressers. He attended a hairdressing class in a vocational high school, with more than 30 students and only 4 girls. According to the normal promotion path, you have to go through the process of apprentice-assistant-barber from the beginning of your career. The middle year is fast, and the three or four years are slow. At first, basic apprentices could only make shampoo. His vocational high school lesbian society chooses the manicure and beauty industry with shorter start-up cycle and easier work.

"Potions and hair dyes can do some harm to girls. Besides, let's take a girl as an example. She is nearly thirty years old and has opened a shop. She must get married and have children. In this case, she must go home. If she stays for a year, the customers she has accumulated for seven or eight years will be gone. " Lin Jie's observation is that when a female hairdresser struggles to complete the promotion and reaches the top of the barber pyramid, getting married and having children will make her lose her original accumulated repeat customers, and the customer chain will be broken, and her career will be tantamount to starting from scratch.

"There are also excellent girls who are their own bosses and hire five or six employees. They will not worry about these lists."

For example, Tang Xin.

Many girls sent her private letters, saying that they also wanted to change careers, and whether they could also engage in the hairdressing industry. Tang Xin gave a negative opinion. "In fact, I won't encourage girls to come to this line. I feel sorry for the girl. I'll tell them something very realistic. Don't come without love. "

Tang Xin noticed that only two or three of the 35 students in her class were girls. However, she can understand the unbalanced gender ratio in the industry. In her opinion, girls are thin-skinned and it is difficult for them to take the initiative in the communication between hairdressers and customers. "Usually come to uncle, uncle, aunt, primary school students, high school students, or the proprietress in a nearby store. Can you communicate with others? Communication is only the first step. You should naturally expand your customers and be able to retain them. Some boys are born to talk nonsense, but girls are generally not so outgoing. "

Tang Xin learned the knowledge of the head department from the head model/source interviewee.

Physical "discomfort" also needs to be broken through. Barbers need to stand for a long time during the haircut. The average barber works more than ten hours a day, and every operation is very mechanical and boring. There are also difficulties in the initial learning stage.

"I just started to learn to pull porn, which is definitely not standard. The teacher will always remind you how to do it, including your hand, which nail, how to stare at your eyes, how to stand on your feet, your scissors, and what shape to use to pull different hair pieces. These things are very detailed. It was painful and tiring at first. In the days when I learned to blow dry, I kept raising my hand. Every day when I get home, I feel that my hand will fall. "

"It is less likely to meet a female hairdresser than a good male hairdresser." In Tang Xin's view, the rarity of a female hairdresser is that she can have a more delicate and sensitive insight into the temperament of customers. "Just like wearing clothes, some people like to wear simple clothes, some people like Mo Landi colors, and some people like sports style. In fact, these things do reflect some differences in people's preferences. Their preferences vary greatly, but some hairdressers can find this. "

Tang Xin found that some male hairdressers cut their hair according to their own habits, and they were very confident in their skills, ignoring the link of communication with customers. However, she believes that a good hairdresser should combine customers' words, behaviors, clothes and other details to understand their real thoughts and haircut expectations more subtly.

Female hairdressers are sought after because they can better understand the aesthetic preferences of the same sex.

After seeing Tang Xin's sharing on social networking sites, some customers went to her shop to ask her for a haircut. "I have never turned over the car."

Girls in this business are all cool.

Social networks have indeed established a new channel of "mutual confirmation" between female hairdressers and female customers.

Rice, 27, works in an upscale hair salon in Taikooli, Chengdu. Five years ago, she switched from finance to hairdressing. At present, Amy's working mode is only to serve customers on social platforms. She does styling for five to eight clients every day, and she can get off work after work. Most of the people who came to see her were girls.

Rice's career change also stems from her love for the hairdressing industry. While doing her hair, she made friends with the barber. Through this relationship, she decided to enter the barber shop and become an apprentice. As soon as I entered the rice industry, I knew that there were few girls in this industry. She is in a hairdressing training class, and she is usually the only girl. She's not surprised.

"Girls in this line often have a little idea of their own, and she will give up something. The female hairdressers I know are actually cool people and have their own ideas. " Rice and the female hairdressers around her project this "coolness" into their hairstyles. They prefer to cut their hair short, which "looks more professional and tidy."

Rice is giving the guests a haircut/source interviewee

Starting from a shampoo girl, then being promoted to an assistant, and then becoming a technician, every link has to go through the strict examination of the technical store manager. "For example, if we want to dye our hair, we must brush it to a standard. We must not touch the scalp and dye it evenly. You have to find a real person or model yourself, and you have to pass the exam on them, and you have to take the exam once in each project. "

After five years of precipitation, Rice has gradually accumulated her own technical experience, and her diligent efforts have made her performance better and better. She jumped to a higher-end styling studio, and the average charge for an ordinary hair dye was around 1000. When business is good, she can earn more than 20 thousand a month.

Hairstylists who are at the forefront of fashion must pay close attention to market trends. Rice goes to a different school for further study every month. Before the outbreak, rice will also go to Japan, South Korea and other places for international study. The more advanced courses are, the more expensive they are, but Les has never been stingy with his investment in technology. Just before the outbreak, she spent more than 20,000 yuan to study in Tokyo.

Shooting and cutting videos is also a new skill she has mastered in keeping with the trend. Rice has accumulated more than 30,000 fans in the whole network. On the homepage of social account, she topped her own copy, "Design hairstyle according to style, face and hair quality" and "Girls know girls best! There is nothing wrong with this sentence. As a result, she quickly accumulated a group of female customers.

Tang Xin, who is also a young hairdresser, also has her own attitude and thinking about this profession.

After officially starting his studies, Tang Xin found that the hairdressing industry is not as simple and low-end as everyone imagined, and hair also has special knowledge. In the training course, Tang Xin and her classmates must recite the content of pigment in hair dye and hair cream. Seriously, she also set an alarm clock and recited the knowledge points one hour before getting up. Just like a serious high school class, students will ask each other questions. Customers only look at the simplest hair style division, but also learn to find the location of the head tip, golden point, back point, pillow point, behind the ear point and so on. Even the seemingly ordinary and simple action of turning the comb should be practiced well. Gradually, the skilled Tang Xin can rotate the comb plate more than 70 times per minute.

Although learning a new craft is a difficult process, Tang Xin can always find "fun". In class, Tang Xin and her classmates will buy a head model to make hair. Some students will take their heads home to continue practicing after class. When passing the subway security check, some students stuck their heads out of their bags, which made her feel particularly funny. There are also more than 20 "fake heads" in Tang Xin. At first, she left her head model at home, and when she woke up in the morning, she was always startled by several "heads"

"It is not so easy to do a good job in the hairdressing industry. You need not only skills, but also emotional intelligence, and you can communicate with different guests. Some students in our class have very high EQ, so they are very happy to chat with the guests, and the guests are willing to pay the bill. To be honest, I am not as strong as them in this respect myself, so I have to practice my skills seriously, at least in terms of technology and emotional intelligence. "

"To be a high-quality hair stylist, you must be confident not only in your skills, but also in your identity as a hair stylist." This is what the teacher mentioned to the students in class. Tang Xin agreed very much and wrote it down.

Tang Xin's notes on studying haircut.

This is also completely different from the professional concept of the older generation of barbers. "In our time, this profession was very humble ... read if you can, and don't work so hard." In Ran Suli's view, a haircut is nothing more than learning a trade to support the family. Although "Apprentice Recruitment" has been posted on the shop window, she has never recruited a young apprentice.

Tang Xin felt that she was now out of Xiao Bai's ignorance and "realized something". Walking in the street, she will carefully observe the hair styles of passers-by, and find that the boy with black fish head looks good and will want to get a haircut. I like it when I see online hair dyeing. I will imitate pictures and adjust colors to dye my hair according to my feelings. It can present a beautiful red color in the sun, "the rate of turning back is quite high." When she had a haircut, she used the skills of playing with scissors taught by her teacher. "My hair was brushed and brushed." Customers will also be fascinated by cool technology, thinking that she is a veteran of the industry for many years.

"Now I find the feeling. One of the main exercises is proficiency, and the other is to accumulate aesthetic experience. When facing the guests, I hope to listen to their ideas and give better suggestions and designs based on my own experience and knowledge. "

Her ambition is not just "a shop" or "a hairdresser". Tang Xin found an example that made her scalp tingle. "She studied fine arts and fine arts, and she has a high level of education. I can tell you this hairstyle through an oil painting, the rhythm of a piece of music and even a mathematical formula. I feel so happy that someone is really doing such a thing. "

Tang Xin saw her ideal hairdresser, "I want to be that kind of person".

On the day she decided to change careers, Tang Xin specially changed the name of her social account, which also included her expectation and imagination for her future career-the future chief hairdresser.

(At the request of the interviewee, the characters in the article are pseudonyms.)

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