The rain collapses, this life is worthwhile (Part 1)

Every time I travel there is a theme song. Music and travel are really a natural and perfect combination. The theme song this time is "Blank Land" by Chen Li. I particularly like it. Chen Li This song by the teacher is the theme song of his music documentary "Walking Music". He went to Israel, and my blank place was Yubeng.

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Blank Land

As usual, I brought a book with me on this trip. It was Sam’s new book, which I bought specially before the trip. , called "Lonely Journey", there is a sentence in the book that says - "Traveling should be about experiencing the gifts that nature gives us." I was deeply touched when I read this sentence, because at that time I had just come out of Yubeng and was reading lazily in the sun in Lijiang.

This trip to Yubeng was the seed planted in my last graduation trip to Yunnan. When I was in Lugu Lake, I first heard my roommate say that he was going to Yubeng, and he also said a lot People who came out of Yubeng told him, "After going to Yubeng, the scenery of Shangri-La and Lijiang and Dali are nothing." After backpacking in Lijiang for ten years, the jeep driver told us that he first came here. Next to it, I participated in the free backpacking trip of Ten Years of Yubeng Hiking. After I came back, I loved it so much that I stayed here.

I have been thinking about this place since then. I made a plan with a friend during the Chinese New Year, but my friend gave up on it, so I canceled it.

Then Shangri-La is a regret left over from my graduation trip. I went to Lugu Lake at that time, and I didn’t have time to go to Shangri-La again. I have been thinking about it, thinking that I must go there next time I go to Yunnan.

So the plan for this trip is very simple, that is, go to Yubeng for a hike to see the beautiful scenery and experience the baptism of the sacred mountain, and then stay comfortably in Shangri-La for a few days to have fun and sunbathe. Bask in the sun like this.

Backpacker Xiaopeng said something that I agree with very much. He said, "Travel does not start the moment you step out of the house, but it starts earlier, often when you get the idea." time. And making travel plans is definitely an aphrodisiac for every traveler. "Indeed, every time you have sex, the trip has already begun, and by the time you make the plan, Xinfei has already flown thousands of kilometers away.

Regarding Yubeng, there is a saying - "If you don't go to heaven, go to Yubeng." What does this mean? Before I went there, I thought it would be about the unparalleled beauty and the feeling of pushing my body beyond its limits.

Yubeng is a truly isolated place. There are 40 households in the village. Currently there is no car access from the outside world. It takes 6-7 hours to walk to get there. The beautiful scenery is not something that everyone can easily access. You can see it. Asam once wrote, "All secret places are not easily accessible." Yubeng is such a place, as is Dongfushan Island in Dongji Island. It's so beautiful to go there and be in real nature.

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Those sights, those people, those foods

During the trip, I suddenly discovered a very interesting point, that is, people from all over the world walked on the same day. When we arrive at the same place on the same road, we don't need too many pleasantries to break the ice when we meet on the way. We can exchange greetings directly. On the other hand, in the city, people walking in a hurry and people playing with their mobile phones in the subway are so magical and interesting.

During this ten-day trip, I experienced so many things and met so many lovely and interesting people. I gained a lot, which I will briefly describe below.

DAY1

When I got on the plane the night before, I posted a message on Moments. He wrote: "Bring enough luggage and full curiosity to go to my blank land." I have been looking forward to it for a long time, and my heart has already flown to that blank land. I am very excited.

My friends and I took night flights from Beijing and Qingdao to Kunming Changshui Airport respectively. This is my second time here and I arrived at about the same time. The difference is that this time I have to stay at the airport for the first time. .

As a result, the plane was delayed and I arrived in Kunming at almost two o'clock in the morning. I met my companion this time - my college roommate. This was the first time we met after graduation, but I didn't feel that How long has passed, it doesn't feel strange at all, it's still so familiar.

The consequence of staying at the airport was that both of us caught colds...

We took an early flight from Kunming to Shangri-La early in the morning. I arranged the first half of the trip relatively well. It’s compact and can be a bit rushed. I want to seize the time to play Yubeng first and then spend a few days leisurely and lazily in Shangri-La.

There were obviously more foreigners on this plane. On the airport shuttle bus, I couldn’t understand what the people around me were saying, even if some were Chinese. I deeply admired the breadth and depth of Chinese dialects.

On the plane, I experienced what it was like to overlook the snow-capped mountains at an altitude of 100,000 miles. I can't describe the feeling, shocking, open and beautiful.

It took more than an hour to arrive at Shangri-La. Again, we didn’t make too many stops and took a non-stop ride to Feilai Temple, where we planned to stay at Feilai Temple for the night.

After four or five hours, we passed through Deloitte County and arrived at Feilai Temple. It has the broadest view and a panoramic view of the Meili Thirteen Peaks. It is the best location to view Rizhao Jinshan Mountain.

Therefore, we were basically on the road on the first day, without any buffer for altitude sickness. We caught a cold and went straight to Feilai Temple with poster 3400.

The room I booked is a viewing room with a good location. You can see the snow-capped mountains while lying down. The scenery at night was beyond my expectation. The white snow-capped mountains are very clear against the moonlight, and the snow-capped mountains are full of stars in the sky. They are very quiet. In front of such a scenery, people can become quiet with just one glance. It is simply beautiful. It was so picturesque, but it was a pity that my mobile phone could not capture such a scene at that moment.

Chatting with the owner of the inn, he said that he had not seen the Rizhao Jinshan Mountain for two consecutive days, but the weather was very good today and he had great hopes for tomorrow. After all, this season is the best time to see the Rizhao Jinshan Mountain.

DAY2

I set an alarm early in the morning, and as soon as I went out I saw all the Meili Thirteen Peaks, except for a few clouds floating above the head of Kawagebo, the highest peak in Meili. I instantly felt that today was a really good day and good luck. The sunrise time was around 7:00. I forgot the exact time. After waiting for a few more minutes, the sun slowly showed its head, and the top of Kawagebo became golden, slowly golden. There are more and more parts, other peaks also become golden, and Rizhao Jinshan reaches its climax. Then, the sun comes out completely, and the golden light on the snow-capped mountains begins to turn white. The sunrise is over, and the sunshine on the golden mountains is also over.

I am really lucky to be able to see the Rizhao Jinshan Mountain. Thank you for your blessing.

Then we went to have breakfast, went back to pack our luggage, and got in the car to go to Xidang, the hiking point into Yubeng, the last place that the car can drive to, and then we need to climb a mountain to finally reach Yubeng. The village collapsed.

We arrived in Xidang around 11 o'clock. Five of us walked together as a team, grabbed two hiking poles and set off. This day was destined to be a difficult day, and we hiked continuously for most of the way. The slope is the first baptism that everyone who enters Yubeng from this road must go through. Perhaps only after experiencing these, you will appreciate it more when you arrive and feel that the scenery is more beautiful.

I felt relatively relaxed at first, but my companions were different. After taking two steps, I would stop out of breath and rest. Difficult moments always have to be overcome. The continuous uphill climb is really desperate. Every time you walk along the way, there will be a large Mani pile (called "Duobang" in Tibetan, which means the pile of stones. It is a stone with spiritual energy, also known as "God". "Heap"), reminding you that you are not walking and fighting alone. Even the advertisements on the telephone poles remind you that this is a spiritual journey.

When you see the prayer flags, you know how far you are from the pass (geographically speaking, it refers to the obvious saddle-shaped depression on the ridge, which is often a transportation channel for tall mountains. As long as you cross the pass, you will be there. The shortest and most labor-saving way into and out of the mountain) is not far away. As more and more prayer flags appear, we know that we are getting closer to the pass. After going through a more difficult mountain climbing road, we finally reach the pass. After arriving at the first pass of Nanzheng, it takes about two hours of downhill walking to reach the highest point.

The downhill road is very uncomfortable, mainly because it is very steep, the center of gravity must be lowered, and it hurts when the toes are pressed. On the way down the mountain, the scenery is very good, because we have reached the other side of the mountain, walking with the snow-capped mountains.

When I was still one kilometer away from Yubeng Village, the proprietress of the inn I had booked for the night called me and asked me where I was and if I wanted to pick me up. She was afraid that I would not be able to find my way. I originally planned to be extravagant this night, so I booked a good view room, where I could directly see the panoramic view of Yubeng Village and the snow-capped mountains.

As soon as we walked out of the last ticket gate of Yubeng, we saw Sister Hua walking up panting. She said hello and took us to the inn. She knew we were very thirsty and was on our way immediately. Bian bought two bottles of mineral water for us. Sister Hua was very enthusiastic and said that because there were very few people checking in today, she would upgrade our room to the best view room with a price of more than 1,000 yuan. She was very nice and kind.

Chatting on the road, I found out that she is from the Northeast. She came to Yubeng Village in 2014 and fell in love with it as soon as she came here. She liked the quietness, isolation and isolation here, and immediately decided to stay. Here, I rented the village chief's house for 20 years and renovated it into an inn with two partners. After a few months, both of her partners couldn't stay here any longer and left one after another, leaving her alone. She really likes this place, and I guess she will never get tired of it.

Later, during a dinner chat, she told us the stories of her tenants. The last one was about a former tenant of hers who came here and wanted to commit suicide, but she saved the child's life, and the child eventually died. Recognized her as my godmother. At the end of the story, she couldn't help crying. Then he wiped his tears and said, "I feel that my coming to this place is really arranged by God to save people. I didn't believe in these things about this sacred mountain before, but now I believe it has magic power."

When I arrived at Yubeng Village, the moment I saw Yubeng Village for the first time, I felt that this trip was worthwhile. Where can I find such a peach blossom land? This village surrounded by snow-capped mountains is so magical. According to Sister Hua, the proprietress of the inn, two Tibetans came here 700 years ago and settled here, leading to the prosperous scene today.

After walking for a while, I finally arrived at the inn and finally stopped. At that moment, I was extremely tired. I went upstairs and entered the room. I collapsed on the bed and had a headache. I didn't realize it was high fever at that time, so I thought it was caused by a cold, so I quickly drank some cold medicine.

I made an appointment with my friends who were traveling together to have dinner together in the evening. After eating a full meal, I felt much better and had much more strength. After chatting for a while after the meal, the two girls who were traveling with us both wanted to go to Yubeng the next day, saying that they were too tired and really couldn’t leave any longer, so they could just check in and come to Yubeng. Everyone should do what they can, and this is completely understandable.

After the break, I returned to the room. After taking a bath and soaking my feet, I felt refreshed and lay down on the bed to continue resting. But my companion was completely exhausted. He was so tired that he had a more serious cold and fever. He said he would have a day off the next day, which meant that I had to set off on my own the next day, which was the most difficult part of the journey. A very challenging section of the road.

I went to the terrace outside my room to watch the night view at night. What kind of scene it was like. Attached is the text from my circle of friends at that time.

After watching the night view, I was very satisfied. I went to bed early to recuperate and prepare for the next day's battle.

DAY3

On the second day of hiking, I got up before eight o'clock to wash up, prepare, and have breakfast. Before 9 o'clock, I set off alone.

This day’s journey is the farthest, highest altitude, and most difficult section. And it is also the most scenic section on the road, experiencing the beauty of the four seasons of spring, summer, autumn and winter.

I met a Tibetan on the road and said "Tashi Delek" to me, and I replied "Tashi Delek" loudly. The initial road was through the jungle, very gentle, and we stopped from time to time to take photos, which was quite relaxing. Then I started climbing the mountain. Because I was faster, I quickly met people and kept surpassing them.

After a break, I and four other people became the first echelon. After following them for a long time, they saw that I was alone and chatted with me. Then we walked together in a group and became Vanguard that day.

Soon the mountain climbing road ended and we came to the plain on the top of the mountain - Bengding, where we saw the snow. After passing Bendeng, we soon reached the pass. From the viewing platform, we could see several snow-capped mountains on the opposite side. Then there is the downhill road, which is the most dangerous section of the trip. It is a sharp downhill slope of 70-80 degrees, covered with ice and snow. Because it snowed the night before, and we were the first people to arrive here today, so the footprints It's not that obvious. The road is quite dangerous. You need to squat down to the side and walk slowly and steadily step by step.

A friend who was traveling with me slipped twice, and once he almost slipped off the cliff. Fortunately, he stopped the car by leaning on a branch after sliding two meters out. When walking this way, you really see how useful trekking poles are! I also almost had an accident. My phone flew out when I turned sideways. The downhill road was full of ice. After skating for a few times, my friend who was walking in front made a soccer goalie hug and hugged my phone. Lived. Wow, my phone’s life was hanging by a thread, and I was almost killed by zombies in the wild. It’s really a life-threatening situation.

After walking through this section of the road, everyone took out their mobile phones to take photos to commemorate the road where they almost lost their lives. Then we walked through a forest and arrived at Xiaonong Base Camp. Xiaonong Base Camp was the base camp for the Sino-Japanese joint mountaineering team in 1991. During that time, all 17 mountaineers were killed in an avalanche. Kawagebo has not yet been conquered by humans, and it is the first of the eight sacred mountains of Tibet. The majesty of the sacred mountain is clearly there.

After resting at Xiaonong Base Camp, we launched the final attack on the ice lake. We still have to climb a mountain. The mountain is covered with snow. The road is very difficult to walk. If you are not careful, you may slip down, which is very dangerous. , the heart is always carried, and there is no slack in every step and every second. After a long journey, we finally reached the top of the mountain and saw the glacial lake. Everyone said that they must not go down the mountain from this road, and they no longer want to take this road because it is really too dangerous.

To reach the glacial lake from the mountain, you still need to walk downhill. The slope is very steep and the snow is deep. One of my companions slipped directly down. I chose to take a detour and walked down the not-so-steep road bit by bit.

At 12 o'clock, it only took 3 hours to arrive at the Ice Lake. I squatted down to appreciate the unique beauty of the Ice Lake. There is a large pile of Mani piles around the ice lake, which is very shocking and full of pious blessings. I also built the smallest mani pile with 3 stones next to it and left my blessings.

Everyone was sitting next to the ice lake, admiring the beautiful scenery and having lunch to replenish their energy. We stayed there for about an hour before people started to arrive here one after another. We stayed there really long, and my neck hurt from the sun.

Then we picked up a bottle of water from the Ice Lake and headed back. The way back took another stone road. Although it was uncomfortable to walk downhill on the stone road, it was already better than the road we came up. It's too easy.

I returned to Xiaonong Base Camp again. I really like the coniferous forest there. The picture is particularly beautiful. The iconic instant noodle wall there is also famous, haha.

On the way back, we were not as anxious as when we went there. We walked very slowly and took a long rest. It was very comfortable to bask in the sun on the observation deck. Finally we started to go down the mountain. We really didn’t like walking down the mountain, so we walked the last part of the way through the jungle. Unexpectedly, we took the wrong road and got lost...

Then we started to find the way, found the way again, and walked back to the village.

Supposedly this is the easiest section of the trail, but I started to have a headache. Maybe it was because I was tired, maybe I was cold due to the wind, or maybe I had high fever after walking for a long time.

While walking that section of the road, I even had a thought - "Why should I come here? Torture myself like this." At that time, I felt that my legs were no longer under my control. When you are under control, you are moving forward very mechanically, maybe because your consciousness is insisting on it.

After walking back to the inn and the room, I collapsed on the bed, hopeless and with a headache. After drinking the medicine, soaking my feet, and eating half of the instant noodles, I really lost my appetite, so I just lay down and fell asleep.

Unexpectedly, I sweated a lot while sleeping, and when I woke up, I was resurrected with full blood. I ordered noodles from the inn again. After eating, I felt like a normal person and fully recovered.

At this point, Yubeng’s hiking trip has passed halfway, but the journey to the entire blank land is still very long, and there are still many stories that have not been told. This is also the first time that I have divided the article into two parts. Because it’s too long and I’m afraid it won’t look good. So, see you next week.