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Hiking Taibai Mountain
"When the afterglow of the sunset dyed the whole ridge red, you will be grateful for your previous decision-to climb to the top and hike on the top of Taibai." -Qin Huaijun
Hiking time: 20 14.6.5-6.6, lasting 2 days.
Hikers: Qinhuai Jun&; tungse
Inscription: "Qinchuan" is an assignment in my college history and geography class, and it is a hymn to my birthplace-Shaanxi. The life experience in Shaanxi, which adds up to less than three years, makes this article seem crude and empty. After graduation, I came to the land where I was born. Although it is only a year and a half, it makes the word Qinchuan more specific and flesh and blood. Write another article about the mountains and rivers in Shaanxi, and never dare to take the title of Qinchuan again. This word is too grand and heavy to write. Since I set foot in Long Mai, Shaanxi, I have only climbed the mountain on foot for two days. Let's call it Walking on Taibai Mountain, which is easy to remember, brisk and concise.
Photo taken at the entrance of Taibai Mountain Scenic Area
Qin Ling, I've been in there a few times. Stepping on the 2 10 national road from the very beginning of contact cycling failed twice; At the turn of April and May in 14, my friends and I rode bicycles along 108 National Road to cross the Qinling Mountains. Only a few times did we really go deep into the Qinling Mountains. Others, such as going to various Meiyukou for an outing and treading water, have been left out in the cold.
Different from my second hometown, Anhui, compared with the beautiful Huangshan Mountain, the mountains in Shaanxi are magnificent, with both the heroic spirit in the north and the aura of mountains and rivers in the south. In fact, this is not surprising. Qinling Mountain, the backbone of Shaanxi, is not only the dividing line between the north and the south of Shaanxi, but also the starting point of the western end of the dividing line between the north and the south of China.
Along the Guanzhong Plain, whether from west to east or from east to west, there is a towering mountain range in the south: Qinling Mountains. The Guanzhong Plain is about 500 meters above sea level, while the average elevation of Qinling Mountain is over 2000 meters, which means that a series of mountains with an altitude of over 1500 meters suddenly stand on the flat ground, which is very spectacular.
Of course, some spectators say that the Tianshan Mountains in the northwest and the Karakorum Mountains in the southwest are not more magnificent. Let's take the central and eastern mainland as an example. The elevation and absolute drop of Qinling Mountains are still considerable. Moreover, Taibai Mountain in the western Qinling Mountains is the highest peak in China, and Daye Sea, a freshwater lake on the top of the mountain, is also the first high-altitude lake in China. In other words, as far as the second and third steps of Chinese topography are concerned, the Qinling Mountains and Taibai Mountain are second to none.
Then "first", why not go?
Taibai mountain road map, note that the bottom is north and the top is south.
In fact, hiking and crossing are relatively new terms to me, and I didn't hear about them until Shaanxi.
I remember when I was monitoring the news in the newspaper office, I could always see some news on TV, such as crossing Aotai and hiking Taibai Mountain, in which many inexperienced people were killed in the mountains. Moreover, in the eyes of parents, Taibai Mountain is forbidden: more than 20 years ago, a group of climbers in Xianyang entered Taibai Mountain, but only one person came out alive. ...
Taibai Mountain is mysterious and desirable ... What do you like? I want to see you, but I have no holiday and no partner. Will I miss my life and die?
At the beginning of June, my best friend Dong Zi graduated and had to travel. As a best friend, can you have a reason not to accompany you? However, the cost of Dong Zi's Chengdu plan is too high. Qinhuai Jun, as a spider silk in diaosi, really can't afford to pay, so he has to press it again-it's just fun anyway. Just go to Taibai Mountain in Qinling Mountains in the province.
Make up your mind and leave a day for strategy. Dong Zi and Qinhuai Army collect information online, which routes go up the mountain, which scenic spots to go to, what equipment to bring, and so on.
I don't know. I don't know. When I checked, I was shocked. The predecessors of mountaineering have already summarized 12 and 3 crossing routes, which took five or six days to complete, including the Aotai crossing and similar crossing routes. When I went to the library of Xigong University after going down the mountain, I saw a periodical about China's scientific exploration, which listed the crossing between Australia and Thailand as one of the most classic and dangerous crossing routes in the mainland, showing the beauty, danger and necessity of hiking in Taibai Mountain. Of course, we are rookie scum in the hiking world, and there was no crossing plan at that time, let alone Aotai.
After careful consideration, the hiking route back to the original road was finally determined, that is, Tangyu-(take CMB)-Xiaban Temple-(cable car)-cableway station-(on foot)-Shangban Temple-(on foot)-Tianyuan Office-(on foot)-Xiaowen Gong Temple-(on foot)-Dawen.
Tickets for sunbathing attractions
Take a bus up the mountain and get off along the way to take pictures (recent photo of Qinhuai Jun)
On June 5th, Dong Zi and I arrived at the East Square of Xi Railway Station early and took a tour bus to Tangyu. There are buses from Xi 'an to various tourist attractions in Guanzhong, and buses to the Terracotta Warriors and Horses, Famen Temple and other scenic spots. Originally, I planned to take the so-called Tour 2 (one-way fare only needs 22 yuan), but when I got to the square, I found no trace of Tour 2, so I took a tour bus to the west (one-way fare 35 yuan). The bus leaves at 8 o'clock and arrives at Tangyu County at the foot of Taibai Mountain at noon 1 1, which is very close.
Because the tourism development of Taibai Mountain is relatively mature, Tangyu at the foot of the mountain has developed into a quite large tourist town. In terms of scale and style, the reception building of Guangtaibai Mountain Scenic Area is like a giant stadium that universities are eager for.
However, we didn't care about all this. We went straight into the hall and quickly bought round-trip CMB tickets and scenic spots tickets with the borrowed student ID card (the student ID card can be given at half price, and the conductor and ticket inspector won't check the photos very carefully, so we have to see through you. In short, we entered the mountain smoothly.
China and Pakistan began to climb the mountain road, and Dong Zi went into the mountain less often, so he was very interested in the scenery on the side of the mountain. Because of motion sickness (also forgot to bring motion sickness medicine) and going into the mountains many times, I am not very curious about the scenery on the roadside. Anyway, we still got on the bus slowly in the clothes at the foot of the mountain.
CMB will stop at a scenic spot and let all passengers transfer to smaller buses to go up the mountain. We also got off at the first and second scenic spots and took some photos casually. But later, in the face of the same green mountains and clear waters, I lost interest and sat in the car all the way up (the key mountaineering bag was too heavy and my back was very tired).
Panshan highway with nine bends and eighteen bends
With the increase of altitude, broadleaved forest along the roadside is gradually replaced by alpine coniferous forest, with dense meadows among trees, in addition to weeds, there are thick piles of pine needles. It seems that our altitude has reached more than 2000 meters, which is dominated by coniferous forests in cold regions.
The winding roads here are mostly sharp bends, and obvious wheel friction can be heard when CMB turns. However, the current vehicle technology is excellent, and the safety factor of scenic routes is higher, so there is nothing to be afraid of. After all, compared with taking Jiuzhaigou Mountain Road, this road is nothing unusual.
You can reach the next stop of Xiabansi cableway after making a nine-turn and eighteen-turn. As soon as I got off the bus, I immediately felt the change of temperature-cool. The relationship between temperature and altitude is that the temperature will drop by 6 degrees for every increase of1000 m. In other words, the temperature here is at least 12 degrees lower than that at the foot of the mountain. But judging from our body surface feelings, there should be more than this decline-after all, the humidity in mountainous areas is high and the wind speed is fast, and the temperature may be lower than theoretical.
However, we are ready: gloves, wool hats, jackets, hiking shoes, wool jackets and so on. They are all carried with you and can be changed.
After changing clothes, I bid farewell to a group of uncles and aunts in the same car and hurried up the steps to catch the cable car. This step may be equivalent to connecting to five or six floors, but we are full of physical strength and it is ok to run all the way with our backpacks. I bought a cable car ticket and went directly to the cable car station, which is almost the location of Bansi New Village. From here, we will climb the mountain on foot.
It's just a hill, and the mountain road is 10 kilometers. Who else can you beat? Take a walk …
Eat Hesse and get ready to go up the mountain.
After entering the mountain gate, I climbed the mountain endlessly.
The position where we started climbing the mountain just reached 3000 meters above sea level, just enough for the passing line at high altitude. Here, it is also the last line of defense for alpine trees. Compared with the lush old trees at the foot of the mountain, the pine forests here are obviously shorter and the pine branches are not so bare, but a little introverted.
It's not that trees don't want to grow bigger and taller, because the air is thin, the soil layer lacks nutrients, and the wind is strong on the ridge line. Both grass and trees should try to stick to the rock wall. Here, "a tree attracts the wind" is used in the right place.
The route from the ropeway station to Tianyuan is almost all wooden plank roads with extremely steep slopes, and most of them have no guardrails. In other words, you have to climb stairs on a building above 3000 meters above sea level, and there is nothing to help.
There are stairs, but no guardrails.
As we all know, climbing stairs is mainly to overcome gravity. The heavier you are, the harder it is to climb up. At the same time, as the two legs of the driving wheel, the knee will be hit intensively in the first round. I must have been exhausted when I was a big fat man. Fortunately, I have been running and cycling for several months, and my overall physique has come up. I didn't do much along the boardwalk. However, Dong Zi, who was hiking for the first time and didn't exercise well before, encountered a problem-he was tired and panting during the ascent of the wooden plank road, and could not walk. This is the rhythm of altitude sickness due to excessive physical exertion. It's almost close to the altitude of 3400, so it's normal to have altitude sickness.
I have already taken rhodiola for hyperreflexia before departure, so it is inconvenient to take it again at this time. We had to stop and go, swearing and walking slowly. From time to time, there are climbers coming down from the mountain in twos and threes or teams, wearing casual clothes and even short skirts and high heels! Their equipment can go down, but our semi-professional equipment can't go up? People breathed a sigh of relief. Dong Zi and I went to Bansi New Village in one go and continued to climb against the fog.
Maybe that tone made us do it. Later, we learned that some of those tourists only went up by ropeway instead of walking all the way, which can explain the question that high heels can also "climb to the top"
Trees are gradually thinning, with an altitude of nearly 3400 meters.
I don't know how big the slope is. Maybe the slope of the plank road from Bansi New Village to Shangban Temple is 45 degrees, or even 55 degrees. Anyway, these two knees feel hard-they have been climbing stairs with a big bag of thirty or forty kilograms on their backs, and the altitude is five or six hundred meters. You can try what it feels like.
There are fewer and fewer tourist signs and fewer trees, and we come to Shipai, the north-south watershed. Here, it may be the last stronghold where you can see those casually dressed climbers. In addition, tourists become scarce and equipment becomes professional. This means that the real hiking link is about to begin.
At present, it is still foggy, and only the ridge and the stone road on the ridge can be seen. Can't see the scenery of the valley? It doesn't matter, for people who are afraid of heights, they are not afraid to look.
China North-South Boundary Monument (Qinhuai Army on the left and Dong Zi on the right)
Most roads are such cliff paths.
According to the street sign just now, the distance from Shangban Temple to Dayehai should be 10 km. 10 km, for us, it is an hour's long-distance running, or half an hour's riding. But at the top of the mountain at an altitude of about 3500, this 10 kilometer may take four, five, six hours or even longer.
At this time, it was 2 o'clock in the afternoon. When we arrived at Dayehai, it was already around 7 o'clock.
In Shipai, the north-south watershed, we cooperated with a couple from Northwest A&F University. On the way to xiaowengong temple, two sisters were invited. A group of six people, three men and three women, began to walk on the narrow path of Huangling Line.
At first, the mountain road was paved with stone slabs. Although standing on the top of the mountain, the mountain wind will blow you from side to side, but after all, the road is wide and the luggage is heavy, and people's footwall can still be firmly tied to the road. However, with the rising altitude, we slowly walked up the narrow path on the right side of the mountain and the left side of the cliff in the dense fog. This road will be the highlight of the rest of our journey.
Dong Zi and I are well-equipped and energetic, and the rebellion in Dong Zi has also decreased a lot. Therefore, Dong Zi and I take turns to be the team leader and the team leader, walking at the head and tail of the team. We are not professional climbers, but our usual riding experience tells us that a team should not be disorderly. One must lead the way and break the wind, and one must stay at the end of the line in case someone falls behind.
Along the way, the weather is still gloomy, but the fog has dropped to a few meters or even a dozen meters below our feet, and finally we can see clusters of huge clouds in the distant peaks and valleys.
In the sea of clouds
At this time, we found that there are only endless big stones, or stone forests, around us and under our feet, except for yellow and wet weeds. Only when the fog under your feet clears, can you still see the rich and green virgin forest in the low-altitude mountainous area.
This trip is not very tiring. Maybe with Dong Zi, he has the responsibility to pay special attention to other teammates along the way. When someone is behind or uncomfortable, he must stop and look at the situation. Everyone's speed is not slow, all the way forward at a constant speed, only a few climbing sections will open the distance, and in case of sharp bends, the back team will not see the front team, and the front team will not see the back team.
The middle stop of this road is Taibai Nature Reserve. When I arrived at the station, I happened to meet the local Meixian TV station doing a TV program. While joining in the fun, we continued on our way-such a small hilltop station simply could not squeeze so many people to stop at the same time. According to the notice of the station, foreigners are not allowed to go forward, perhaps because of national defense considerations? Anyway, let's keep walking.
Still the same road, the same scenery, the same fog and the sea of clouds on the distant mountains, we came to the end of this road-Dawen Palace.
Unworthy remains of the fourth season glacier.
The emperor is always fair, and we have to suffer for such a long and smooth road. Starting from Dawen Palace, there will be a huge hill to climb, and then there will be several smaller hills to climb.
When we stopped at the rest stop of Dawen Palace, we vaguely saw someone on the top of the mountain in the thick fog. At that time, I thought it was a professional climber who deliberately sought excitement, but later I found out how naive I was-this is the only way to move on, and the person who appeared on the top of the mountain in the future is ourselves.
By the way, the road ahead passes through Xiaowengong Temple, and now it reaches Dawengong Temple. Where is the temple? In fact, it is a small bungalow built of stones next to the rest station, which is dedicated to the gods. God should not be desecrated. We took some photos at the gate of the temple as a souvenir and didn't go in.
Next is Dashan Bao.
A photo package taken while climbing the mountain, at this time, their physical strength has been greatly reduced.
To tell the truth, it is really unbearable to climb such a mountain with such a heavy mountaineering bag-two straps cut into my shoulder like two knives, which hurts. If you want to drink Dong Zi and change the bag, he can't carry it-forget it, keep carrying it.
Almost with both hands and feet, it can be regarded as climbing the mountain step by step. This is really a painful experience for the two young sisters in the team. They are exhausted, poorly equipped, with a pair of shoes and slippery roads, and it is extremely difficult to climb mountains.
However, it is worthwhile to climb up and see the stone sacrificial piles like Mani pile on the top of the mountain. What is even more memorable is that it is on this mountain that we recorded the image of clouds climbing to the top of the mountain. The cloud we saw on the plain is in front of us, like a white ribbon, passing through every inch of naked skin.
The clouds climbed over the hill.
Coming down from this hill, to be honest, it is not too far from the destination of the day-Dayehai. However, even if you can see the Dayehai rest station in front, you can't do it anyway. This reminds me of riding Qinghai Lake. When I was about to go downhill to Xihai Town, the town was in front of me, but you just couldn't get there by riding. At that time, looking at the road sign, it was still 10 km from Xihai Town. At this time, we may be less than 2 kilometers away from Dayehai, but we walked for almost two hours.
In the last section of the road, I kept going uphill and downhill. The stone pavement became extremely slippery because of fog, and sometimes it was muddy pavement, which made it easier to slip (it turned out that it did slip, and more than once). Sometimes, the stone pavement is uneven, even protruding towards the cliff. I have to lean back with a big bag on my back and press forward to climb over.
There are no trees on the mountain, and the mountain is lush.
At that time, my knees were almost worn out, and my two sisters were almost overdrawn. But Dong Zi came from behind and became the team leader, and the couple seemed to be in a good mood.
There, we saw the remains of the fourth season glacier (in fact, some ice bodies left on the rocks cut by the top of the mountain), the dense virgin forest under the glacier, and the continuous sea of clouds on the top of the mountain in the distance. The fog finally cleared away. In fact, our altitude has been higher than the fog layer just now.
The above is the situation in the east (the left side of the driving direction). At best, this is just amazing. After all, I couldn't see anything in the fog all the way. Go a little further until you come to a mountain pass with something transparent, and look west (to the right of the direction of travel). The most beautiful scenery of the day has just begun.
When we approached the Daye Sea, we could see the way to the rest station of Daye Sea clearly. Signs of sunset began to appear in the west. Clouds of mountains pressed against us, and the fog in the valley climbed up along the valley. Sandwiched between two clouds, the sky is blue, stained with a little glow and slightly red.
Taibai sunset glow
Soon, we finished the last downhill and arrived at the so-called Haisir-actually a miniature alpine lake. From the mouth of the lake, you can see several white drinking pipes leading the lake down the mountain (I was used to this drinking pipe when I went to Qinling). It is said on the Internet that Taibai Mountain is the source of Nongfu Spring, and the water quality is definitely excellent. Although we still have plenty of water, we can't resist the desire for pure mountain spring water and go straight to the lake to drink water-it's really Nongfu Spring, which is a little sweet! Cold and sweet, delicious, can't help drinking more.
Sweet mountain spring water
Actually, drinking water is secondary. The key point is that the lake is located at the top of the mountain, blocked by the top of the mountain in the east and open at the mountain pass in the west. This is a good place to enjoy the sunset. We photographed the ice layer on the lake of Dayehai, patted the red clouds in the west and hurried into the store to stay.
Haisir is actually a mountain pond, still frozen.
The afterglow reflected the mountain next to the campsite into a perfect golden color.
Uncle Hai deserves to be called Uncle Hai, and it is the uncle who opens the shop. We didn't reduce the price at all, so we had to live in a steel house at 70 yuan price. But at least we got a free bottle of boiled water (a bottle of boiled water is for 20 yuan). Since all the materials here are carried on the mountain, according to the boss, the cost of a catty is two yuan. No wonder the price here is extremely high and Luoyang paper is expensive. Meat 50 yuan, ingredients 40 yuan. I can't afford to wait for diaosi, but fortunately, I brought a lot of supplies, which is enough for six people to share. Including kimchi, barbecue, highland barley wine, ham sausage, roast chicken and so on.
We had a rest in the board room. At sunset, we hurried up the mountain road to see the sunset on the hillside further south.
It is estimated that it will be completely dark when we go down the mountain, and a flashlight is not enough. When everyone started climbing the mountain, I went back to the board room and got a headlight. When I walked up the mountain road again, the other five people had disappeared, so I had to go up the mountain alone.
The afterglow of sunset
This road is paved with flat stones and mud at the bottom, and then it is completely paved with big stones. You can only judge which stones belong to the pavement and which ones are not by judging their flatness. It took twenty minutes, but at least it showed up.
This one, first of all, is shocking, such a beautiful afterglow! !
Secondly, depression, only afterglow, sunset?
Alas, I still missed the sunset, so I had to take a photo of the afterglow with my mobile phone. It happens that there are some glacial remains here, which were taken with afterglow.
Here, using any adjective seems powerless, just go to the picture.
Take a photo with the afterglow of the sunset, and the white next to it is a glacier.
The afterglow gradually dispersed, and the only light left in the mountain, except the flashlight, was the electric light in the direction of the steel plate room. We slowly descended the mountain and went back to the steel plate room to get ready for bed.
Board houses have bunk beds, and each bunk can sleep two people. Xiaodong and I happen to be in the same bed. He went out and looked at the starry sky. Compared with the sky above the city, this is the starry sky, because the space is clear, so the starry sky-you can clearly see the Big Dipper, Polaris and all kinds of stars that can be named but not named. Unfortunately, the camera is broken. The night sky was dark, leaving no image.
In fact, I can still see such a pure night sky when I grow up, and I didn't see it until one and a half years after I came to Shaanxi. I crossed the Qinling Mountains by bike for the first time. I saw it in the mountains of Foping County at 9: 00 pm. The second time, I witnessed it with my own eyes when I stayed on the west bank of Qinghai Lake. This is the third time.
After struggling to climb into bed, I changed my clothes, and then frantically applied medicine-knees, shoulders, waist, etc. I feel sore all over. Rub some prickly heat powder on each other. After all, you are carrying a big bag, sweating all over, and you can't take a shower.
Overlooking Dayehai camp
At about 10 in the afternoon, the lights went out. It is not stipulated that 10 must turn off the lights, but because the rest station on the mountain depends entirely on its own generator, and when it is used up, it will automatically turn off the power. It doesn't matter. You should go to bed early after a tiring day.
However, there are too many professional or amateur climbers in such a big board room, and few people can fall asleep. Except for a few buddies snoring loudly, others are either chatting or tossing and turning-they can't sleep.
Go on, go on, 12 stayed up until midnight.
Could it be that you are thirsty and want to go to the toilet? I woke Dong Zi up and went to the outdoor toilet together. After going to the toilet and drinking water, I am much more awake. Accompanied by the mountain wind, we saw a string of lights on the ridge in the north, maybe it was a small village in the north? Or a mirage? Who cares? I just want to sleep now.
Later, I lay in bed for quite a while. The last time I looked at my watch was 3 am. Later, I vaguely lost my memory. However, at five or six o'clock the next day, I woke up, and most people in the board room also woke up. Rub the panda eyes one by one, get up.
Today, many people want to climb Sendai early to watch the sunrise, but the heavier fog that day made everyone give up this idea.
This fog also made us want to move forward on impulse, and our desire to cross the Qinling Mountains directly from Zhouzhi to Houtuozi failed. To be on the safe side, six people in our team went back the same way.
The narrow road we walked is a winding line from a distance.
It began to fog the next day.
I don't want to write too much about this chapter, because the route is exactly the same as yesterday, except that there are more downhill than uphill, and the cliff changes from left to right. And because of the huge fog around you, you can't see anything except the people in front and the road under your feet.
The fog turned into water, and the whole person seemed to be lifted out of the water. My eyes are always foggy and I can't even see the road clearly. Because of the fog, I was soaked to the skin, and even my knee pads were covered with ice residue.
I don't remember what happened. In short, this is a curse, step by step, step by step. To make matters worse, the annual inspection of the ropeway with small probability events was stuck in the days when we went down the mountain. The ropeway is not allowed to sit, and we have to rely on our legs for the last leg.
Taibai Mountain camp has traces left by donkey friends all over the country, including Hefei, the city where Qinhuai Army is located.
On that day, the stone road and the dirt road were gone, and the last wooden plank road crushed me-I lacked knee pads and my knee was seriously injured. The next step was like killing a pig.
It's over anyway.
It was not until I took a bus to the foot of the mountain that the fog dispersed. I was seriously carsick and just vomited. When I arrived in Tangyu, I looked at the mud spots and condensed salt on my body, looking haggard and silently telling the experience of these two days. My mouth wants to do nothing but drink water and gasp.
In the evening, we went back to Xi 'an and slept all the way. There is also an Aotai passenger from Beijing in the same car. He looks haggard than us, but his voice is still loud, so he is a professional.
It's been 10 days.
In the scorching sun of the plain, perhaps what we miss most is the cool and biting mountain wind in Taibai Mountain, and of course, the much milder sun.
Taibai Mountain, I climbed it once. Although there is no leap, there is no regret.
There are still no handrails on the stairs when going down the mountain.
-Qin Huaijun? 2014 June 16 Xianyang, Shaanxi
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