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How to raise myna cubs
Let me look through the posts I posted on the forum before.
Myna birds are quite cheap and common in the market, so the price is very general and suitable for family breeding. Myna can not only learn language, play with its master, but also fly.
As for the breeding and flying of myna, I will talk about my own breeding and training methods.
First, choose young:
I like the brave myna, and it would be better if my friends could choose the hero (just my personal opinion).
How to choose myna who is bold, I personally think it is excellent;
A, for novice friends, it is recommended to buy 15 to 20 days of incubation. It is better for bird vendors to observe, compete for food and ask for food strongly. The mouth should be round, big and loud. Choose such an eight.
B, after choosing a bird, don't take it away in a hurry. Look carefully at whether the bird's eyes are clean, whether its nostrils are open, and whether the feathers near its buttocks are dry and clean. Let Hachi hold your finger, feel the power of Hachi's grip, and see if its claws are intact.
Some friends blindly pursue five white starlings. Personally, I think such a myna is hard to find, so don't have this heart. Birds are all the same after shedding their feathers.
Second, feeding:
Pay attention to the heat preservation work of the eight banners when you take them home. Put the shredded toilet paper in a smaller carton, which should be perforated and ventilated. Putting it in the sun can warm the carton, but don't expose it to the sun for eight hours, which is not good for Hachi's eyes. Later, when myna grew up, she should often bask in the sun, which is beneficial to the calcium absorption of birds.
I have eight data sources:
Chick feed is the main feed. Chick stage: add an egg yolk to the feed, soak it in warm water and cool it to room temperature. Then knead it into a ball and feed it to myna, two at a time. One is half to two-thirds the size of a thumb. Wet myna's throat with a brush before feeding, which will help myna swallow the feed.
When I grow up, I still give priority to feeding. I usually feed more fruits and vegetables, such as apples (cut in half or diced), green leaves, tomatoes, watermelons and so on. I feed lean meat twice a week, not too much at a time. Birds should be raised rough, fed too well, and they will not live long, hehe.
Guide to chicken bathing:
After a month, that is to say, it has been taken home for nearly 20 days. When the hair is cut, it will not be so smooth for the first time. So we can use a method: put myna in the sun until its mouth is wide open, release it and put a pot of water (tap water is enough all year round, and myna's adaptability is still very strong). If the first bath is unsuccessful, don't worry, continue the next day.
Matters needing attention:
Starling can't blow after taking a shower.
If the food or water in the drinking cup is contaminated by bird droppings, it should be replaced immediately.
On summer nights, don't put myna in a room where mosquito-repellent incense is lit or mosquito-repellent drugs are sprayed.
Hang the bird as high as possible to prevent cats and children from doing anything bad to myna.
Don't bathe myna with warm water in winter (tap water is used all year round), so myna is more likely to catch a cold.
Give myna enough sunshine time, because sufficient sunshine is beneficial to myna's absorption of calcium and is very helpful to bird coat color.
Starling has cold symptoms such as sneezing. Don't take medicine in a hurry. Observe for a day first. It's a three-point poison
If there is, don't scare myna with a stick or something. It takes a lot of effort to establish a good relationship in the future.
Salty things can't be fed to birds. Salt is harmful to any bird, which is directly reflected in feathers.
Third, pre-flight training:
First, make myna familiar with the master's voice:
In fact, this is very easy to do. Feed Hachi regularly and quantitatively every day, and call Hachi's name more every time you feed Hachi (do you want to give it a name when you buy it?
Intensive training:
Do it indoors, close the doors and windows, and the family can train together. The host will hide in one place first, and the family will let the myna out (myna had better starve for an hour or two first). The host will start calling myna's name, and myna will ask the host for dinner because it has been hungry for two hours. Hehe, as long as myna finds you, she will be given a small amount of food as a reward, and it is best to use myna's favorite food, such as lean meat.
Myna trusts its master:
Myna is still released, please find friends (don't ask your family for help) and let them catch your myna on purpose. Then when you call myna's name, myna will fly to your shoulder or hand. At this time, you can "gulp down" your friend, and your friend can step back and train more. Usually myna won't be far away from you.
Note: Even if myna can feed herself in the future, she should feed Yaba more by hand.
B, myna hands-on training:
When Hachi is 25 days old, let him out of the cage, call his name and let Hachi put his hand on yours. If he doesn't know how to get started, you can put his hand under myna's chest and lift it up slowly, and myna will jump up automatically. At this time, feed myna again, practice a few times, and myna will naturally be in your hand.
Note: Don't scratch your Ba, even if it doesn't listen to you! ! !
C, myna regression training:
Put the cage on the ground, open the cage door, put myna's favorite food, such as breadworms, on the cage mouth by hand, say the password of "enter the cage, enter", and quickly put your hand behind the cage door when attracting myna's attention. At this time, myna will go in, close the cage door immediately, and repeated training will achieve the effect.
Fourth, the outdoor training of flight:
Familiar with the environment:
I often take myna to a place (that is, the place where she often flies in the future). This place should have certain requirements: there should not be many animals such as cats and dogs, and it is best to be in an empty square or park, and there should not be tall buildings or Woods nearby.
Officially started flying in the wild:
Hungry eight or two to three hours in advance makes myna completely hungry. Open the cage door. Starling may come out carefully at first, but it's not urgent. I don't come out on the first day, continue on the second day, and the third day ... Hehe, when myna comes out, she will train in the wild, call myna's name, and only give a small amount of food after getting started, and then the owner will put it gently. Myna will fly to you immediately, then you reach out and let myna stand in your hand, give food rewards, and then back to ................... to repeat this training, so you can't let myna leave your sight for a long time.
Note: it is best to keep two myna, one in a cage and the other in a cage, and let them out circularly. This will be guaranteed.
In fact, releasing myna means starving myna to death. If you want to make birds obey, you can only use starvation. This method I mentioned also has obvious effect on training wild birds (I tried it last year).
Regarding the annual feed supply, let me talk about my method:
Spring, spring came back, foreign things revived, and after a winter of breeding, myna returned to sex. The same is true for male myna, because myna is about to enter the breeding period, so it is best to feed fruits and vegetables at this time to reduce sexual desire. You can feed two or three apples, pears and the like a week. Feed two or three peanuts every day Peanuts should be sliced with a knife, then crushed by hand and put into feed.
After artificial autumn in summer and spring, light feed, such as fruits and vegetables, should be given priority to. When the temperature is high, we can bathe myna twice a day to ensure that myna will not get heatstroke.
In autumn, birds begin to store fat, that is, fat, to prepare for winter. At this time, it is necessary to increase the proportion of fatty foods, feed more peanuts and meat, and relatively reduce fruits, so as to ensure that myna can gain weight for the winter.
Feed less oily food in winter, only half as much as in autumn. You can't let myna grow too fat in winter, and spring is not good for myna.
After long summer, myna will enter the molting period. At this time, it is necessary to give myna enough water to bathe. If myna doesn't wash, don't be reluctant to increase the amount of foods rich in vitamins such as fruits and calcium, because myna is in the molting period and has high physical strength.
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